Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

canayjun64

Is anyone aware of a driveline clunk with 2000 Silverado’s or is it just me?
I have an automatic trans. that makes a clunking noise whenever the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released. Is this normal?
Any comments are welcome.
Thanks
Canayjun64

obyone

Driveline - Clunk Explanation

File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle

Bulletin No.: 99-04-20-002A

Date: September, 2001

INFORMATION

Subject:
Driveline Clunk

Models:
2002 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models

This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002 (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).

Important: The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004.

Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse. Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.

Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.

The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.

For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.

In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:

Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components.

Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.

While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.

PF_Flyer

I'm going to rename this topic since we don't have a topic where problems and possible fixes for Silverado can be discussed. That way people won't have to create individual topics for the variety of problem-type questions that might come up.

PF Flyer
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canayjun64

Thank you for the reply. I felt compelled to post a message purely as a second opinion. The explanation above is the exact same as what my dealer sent me (Fax). My final question to this ... do I need to worry more about it? It seems to me that any mechanical "clunking" noise usually ends up as a repair(s). It just doesn’t sound right. Hell! …even the word clunk sounds awful.
Canayjun64

rayt2

canayjun64

I have a 2000 Silverado, 4X4, 4.8 liters that has a sticky throttle (kinda anoying)Is there a quick fix for this that I could do myself at home? Thanks....Canayjun64

ryanbab

Take it to the dealer. They will replace the throttle body. I had this done a month ago and it made a HUGE improvement. I have 30,500 miles on my 2000 with the 5.3

Ryan

gator36

They may not replace the throttle body. They may just clean it with carb cleaner really well. There is a TSB on the replacement of the TB but it only covers a certain build range...

rayt2

is considered normal maintenance so you may very well get charged for it! That was documented by a few posters quite awhile back on this board for those who had the same sticky throttle problem. The TSB suggests a cleaning first ie; routine owner maint. Watch out for this one !

Ray T.

mark227

Sounds like fluid/air mix from right side when accelerating from stop up to about 30 mph. Not so loud the stereo doesn't cover it, but is sure annoying when I want quiet in the truck. Any ideas or similar complaints? 2000 Silverado Z71, 5.3 L, 3-dr extended cab.

gator36

There is a TSB for the 8.1 l model year that is similar to the problem that you state. In the TSB they suggest removing the flow restrictor. The test for this is to pinc the heater hose with a pair of vice grips and test driving it to see if the noise is still there...

gator36

Is the A/C on?
There is a TSB related to an A/C concern that would require new parts.

sonjaab

Have read on other GM threads...Ya need to
BURP the cooling system. Something about
a air pocket in cooling system. Since no
radiatior cap on rad. you gotta take off
or loosen one of the hoses.....geo

noobie1

Do you know the number for that A/C TSB? I've got a kind of hissing from that assembly mounted on the fire wall with all the tubing routed to it. Thanks.

-David

gator36

the tsb number would be:

01-01-39-002b

walter (gator)

canayjun64

Can anyone direct me to a good TSB site? I would very much appreciate it.
P.S.
Thanks to all for replying on my "Sticky throttle" post. ....Canayjun64

rayt2

http://www.alldata.com gives out listings for free but it will cost ya for complete information!

Ray T.

ryanbab

Yesterday i took my truck in again for the steering whine. The last fix lasted only a few hrs and I was told they put the wrong lube in the steering shaft. Well they put the right stuff in there and so far NO NOISE!!!

I was getting pretty close to trading it in for a new one cause i couldnt stand the noise but now it is a dream to drive again (and the $35K sticker shock brought me back to reality oh yea it was a 2500HD ext cab 4wd LS in the new arrival blue)

Ryan

sonjaab

You know you WANT a carmine colored
one this time!.......LOL........geo

ryanbab

"You know you WANT a carmine colored"

hmmm well i turn 23 on sat so i guess i am getting there hehe

sonjaab

I had a carmine 94 Yukon..LOL
Couldn't find one in black...geo

canayjun64

In reference to messages # 6, 7, 8 and 9 of this post.
Problem fixed. Brought it to the dealer and they cleaned it (sticky throttle). Works like a charm.
Thanks to all....Canayjun64

rayt2

Isn't it nice to see GM has got a grip in solving past problems so well that they magically appear in newer models :sick: And they wonder why sales had slumped prior to this employee pricing plan. Now everybody's in on the act. It is a good time to buy new with this pricing I'll have to admit even though quality issues persist since the 1999 makeover.

Ray T. :shades:

aw3180

I have 99 z-71 with 44000 miles the abs light has come and the abs system isn't working.the abs box under driver door sounds like a motor inside is running,the only way to cut it off is unplug or pull fuse.OPEN for suggestions! thanks!

kapla

Your ABS motor has gone out. It went out on my '99 at about the same mileage as yours. Luckily I have the extended warranty, the repair is about $800.

chevydog

I have a 2001 1500HD 6.0 4x4 that has a valve rattle on every cold start. Is this normal and is there a remedy?

rayt2

You haven't been paying attention, go here http://gmpistonslap.tripod.com/ the noise you here most likely is piston slap. Or the fuel going thru the fuel rails as Iv'e heard said before (most likely not).

A bunch of us GM owners are experiencing this "knock" on cold start up, myself included.

Also try scrolling down to the GM Engine Knock discussion board for more on this issue that GM will do nothing but give you lip service about.

Ray T.

slayer38

Hello,

I have a question i hope someone can help me with.
I bought a used 2002 chevy silverado today and while driving it through my town, i could hear a thumping sound from the left front wheel when i hit small bumps.
This deep thumping seem to travel through the steering column.
Is it a loose shock?? My 2001 does not do this.

two more questions:
Does the 2002 have the "guards" at the top and bottom of the ignition key (like my 2001) or is it just a key hole. (I'm wondering if the ignition was replaced)

Last, isn't "keyless entry" standard on this model?? the deal said it was not But he may be full of it.

Please help.
Thank you in advance.

obyone

It's hard to tell if the remote entry is standard or not since you don't mention the trim level that you bought. Base level doesn't have remote entry, LS and LT does.

There are no guards on the 2002 models.

Take the truck back to the dealer to have your intermediate steering shaft lubed. Is the truck under warranty?

canayjun64

Hi all... I made a quick search to make sure that my post isn't another replication of a previous entry.

Here it is:

When driving on a standard city street, around 65 kilometres/hour or 40.3 miles/hour, I get (this is hard to explain) a groaning type of noise. Somewhat like a vibration or shudder. I suspect that the shifting sequence of my automatic trans is done to fast from the second gear to the third (same as a manual trans when it is shifted to fast) perhaps it's from the third to the fourth ... I’m not sure. Could this be related to a faulty modulator valve? Is this common?
In order to eliminate/quiet this, I need to accelerate a bit more to activated the passing gear until I reach a higher speed then it’ s gone.

P.S. Unfortunately, I don't know the transmission model/make for my 2000 Silverado 4.8 V8.... sorry.

Thanks in advance…Canayjun64

ryanbab

SOunds to me like your torque converter is locking up. Mine did the same right around 39-41 mph. I had the trans reprogrammed by gm about 2 yrs ago. However I have heard the fix is no longer available.

My only suggestion when driving around town put it into 3rd. (select 3 after the D)

canayjun64

Thanks Ryan...

Now why the heck would GM discontinue a fix? This is weird... If there is indeed a fix for this, shouldn't they honor this?

Do you think this could lead to an eventual problem?

Canayjun64

obyone

GM doesn't consider it a problem. In order to attain the mpg, the converter locks up a bit earlier. Course you can overide it the way Ryan has illustrated or you can leave it as is. For me, a few HP increasing mods decreased the "effect" enough that it's not as noticable as before.

ryanbab

yep the fix decreased peoples mpg (mine wasnt affected) and people complained about that so the fix was discontinued

One problem led to another

am70043

at the top of the rear passenger door there is a little play in the lock that seems to rattle on bumps. do you make the adjustment on the lock on the door or on the latch on the cab? if the adjustment is on the latch, how do you remove the cover over the latch from the headhliner.
2002 RADO EXT. CAB LS THANKS AL

rayt2

The adjustment would be at the latch on frame, but this is a warranty repair so don't mess with it unless you don't have the time to leave truck at dealers since headliner is in the way.This should'nt be anymore than a 1/2 hour repair if the shop will let you wait.

Ray T.

am70043

I know this is covered under warranty, but I would much rather do it myself. As you can see I'm not crazy about others learning on my truck. So if anyone can help I still need to find out how to remove the plastic cover over the door latch at the deadliner.( what type of clip is it ) Thanks AL

obyone

It's real simple. There are two plastic clips that are positioned to the right and left of the latch. If you look closely, what's really holding the plastic piece is the latch itself as a part of the plastic attaches to the left side of latch. Pull straight down on the plastic from the side closest facing you as you stand outside the cab and it will pop right off.

Additional info, Upper striker bolts tighten to 18 lb ft. Lower striker bolts to 15 lb ft.

I particularly like this part. If you decide to adjust the door striker plate, do not remove both bolts as it may cause the striker backing plate to fall into the body adding in additional time to perform the repair.

kec1

I'm sure everyone is familiar with the silverado problem where the abs pump runs constantly and the only way to stop it is to unplug it or remove the fuse, but has anyone had any experience installing a used abs module? I found a used module for $175 and installed it. When I turned the ignition on, the message center said "security" and the fuel gauge went to empty and the truck would not start. I removed the wires from the abs module and everything was normal again. Does the used module contain the VIN from the vehicle it was removed from, and if so is this causing the problem? Is there anyway to fix this? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks
kec1

am70043

I'll try to make the adjustment when I 'm off of work. Why is there a difference in top and bottom latch bolt torque and do you really think a dealership would torque these bolts? I much prefer to make repairs and adjustments when ever possible, it makes me feel better. Thanks again, AL

obyone

Hmmm, I haven't seen a torque wrench when I walked through the service department. Wonder what that says? I don't think they use a torque wrench unless its real critical like reinstalling a head. And I know they don't torque the lugs when reinstalling the tires. As for why the difference, I'm clueless unless the bolt sizes are different which I hadn't noticed.

I had my passenger side doors adjusted. I thought the dealer had done it but when reading the RO, found out that they subbed it to an autobody shop. Go figure.....

lariat1

That is standard practice now. From what I understand there is no adjustment in door latches anymore and you actually have to band the door to fit. I watched them adjust the dooe on my Ram and they used a 2x4 and pushed on the door to get the proper alignment.

obyone

The strike plates are adjustable. The hinges are welded. There is a kit to replace the welds with bolts but try getting a dealer to do that....

black_silver

In my 2001 Ext Cab LT 1500 the passengers get a draft during cold weather. What's with this?

Hans

black_silver

They made that thread "read only" so I cant put my email address there.

So here it is (for info on the cold draft/passenger side)

brakob@earthlink.net

dixifrog

I have a 2002 2wd 1500LS 5.3L with the heavy duty suspension pkg. I have had it for almost 3 months and the left side of the truck is starting to sag. The dealership says they haven't seen this before and they wanted to shim it up. I didn't agree to that and besides when they tried to order the shims there were none available, GM or after market. Now they want to swap the coils from left to right and vice versa to see if the problem follows. Has anyone else experienced this with a new or old pick up? If so what was the fix?

ryanbab

front or rear sag?

Just for reference the gas tank is on the left and fully filled it adds a good amount of weight

Also the sag could be attributed to the truck being shipped. Tighted down to the truck hauler to tight

jaijay

http://forum.62-65-dieselpage.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=004380

mledtje

Swapping the coils from right to left is not a bad idea to isolate the problem.

Sometimes springs take a set. OK, springs always take a set. Some just settle more than others. Trying to find which spring is the culprit is not always straightforward. Swapping springs is acceptable.

Be happy you have a dealer who is willing to try and fix your problem. A lot (if not most) of dealers would just say "Its within limit" and let it go. At least your dealer is working on it for you.

Mike L

hunter33

I had the same problem on my 03 5.3 Z71 ext. what it was the shock Leaked out all the oil what happen was there was a pin hole in the bottom of the shock I was told the shocks have oil over gas.

harvestmooon

Hi, Im most familiar with solid front axles and have heard I can leveloff my front end by turning up the torsion bars. Anyone that could walk me thru it I would be thankful! Ive searched old posts and there is mention of it many times but no telling how to do it. Is an inch possible this way without damaging anything? Obviously, Id need to realign.
J