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2013 and earlier BMW 3-Series Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • I paid 1250 over invoice for my special order d.
    The ecocredit comes off that. So you should be at least $2000, perhaps $3000 if you really drove a hard bargain under invoice if you get a good deal.
    It's a fantastic car.
  • bond007jbbond007jb Posts: 38
    edited February 2011
    Getting a 2008 335i convertible for 35800, has 30K miles, loaded with almost all the options, new MSRP was 58K (Prem., Sport, Nav etc.). It is not CPO but has almost 1.5yrs of original warranty and maintenance left on the car (4yr/50K miles).

    Is this a good price?
  • i would
    - check the tmv on edmunds
    - check the value (although i'm not sure yet how accurate it is)
    - go to bimmerfest or similar forum website and do a search and/or ask if anyone can give you manheim auction results for that model. figure a CPO warranty is WORTH about 3k. costs them less i believe.

    imho i would look into a lease of a new one. first, those cars have had a lot of trouble and i can almost guarantee it won't be pretty when it gets off warranty. also REALLY look at your cost of depreciation + repairs + maintenance on buying a used bmw and compare it to the real yearly cost of a lease. bmw's leases are nicely subsidized, keep you covered under warranty, protects you from the serious depreciation that happens if you get in an accident; every time i do the math, buying these vehicles used makes no sense.

    i can help you run those numbers if you care to.
  • I am considering buying a new BMW coupe (328i), but just read that the new style bmw will be on sale in 2012-what to do? Should I consider an Audi or another brand? because my number one goal was not to deal with design change for at least 4 years. ahsan
  • Bought a CPO 2008 BMW 335i sedan, 6 speed automatic with 40,000 miles for $29,000 plus TTL. OTD $32,200.

    Has sport package, premium package, and many other options. Is this a good deal?
  • Hi,

    Thanks for the reply. Understand your point about leasing the car instead. But 3 yr leases are running about 25K in all, so if I keep this car for 6 yrs, it more than pays for two leases, plus the CPO car I am now looking at will have the extended warranty till end of 2013 which should cover any major issues.

    The earlier deal fell through as the dealer is not ready to sell below 36800 but I am getting another CPO 2008 car with exact same color but 46000miles and additional Satellite Radio for 36500 + TTL = 40K approx. OTD. Would you not even consider it?

  • rwolffrwolff Posts: 19
    edited July 2009
    I've been looking to but a new used car and trade in my 2000 Audi A4 2.8 quattro. Narrowed it down to two choices: a 2009 Audi A4 3.2L quattro Premuim Plus with 19K miles, original warranty good until August 2013, can be had for $25K with my trade. Impressed with the ride, braking and acceleration, and lots of room all around. The other is a 2007 BMW 335xi with 15K miles, cold weather and premium packages, price with trade is $24,500, CPO until Nov 2013, very impressed with how this car handles and the engine is a beast. Love to hear opinions on what car you would buy. I'm leaning toward the BMW since I've had Audi's for a long time and would be a nice change, plus feel the value on the BMW is excellent. Thanks
  • 2011 328i with premium pkg and heated seats
    MSRP: $39,600
    Best offer so far is $39,8xx, OTD
    9.25% tax

    Sounds like a deal?
  • Getting a 2008 335i convertible with 30K miles (Sports, Premium, Cold Wthr, Nav, Auto with Steering mounted shifters, USB & Wind Deflector) for $36K + TTL, good price? Thanks
  • All - first time post but long time follower.

    In Oct. '08 I bought a 2005 325xi with 40k miles for $22k. Got the extended maint warranty which was awesome (numerous oil changes, wipers, new brakes, roters, oil sensor, thermostat etc. were done).

    Fast forward to Feb. 2011 and the car now has 73k miles and the extended warranty is up. I pay about $350/mo with about $10k left on the loan.

    With that, I'm thinking for trading this car in for an '08 328 (i or xi). Hoping to keep the payments the same.

    Haven't walked into a dealer yet to discuss but I feel like I'll have two sets of negotiations...what can I buy a pre-owned for and what will I get for my old car.

    Do you like where my head is? Should I be going about this another way? Any research I should be doing?

    Any thoughts, suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!
  • Are the build your own BMW & Estimate lease payments accurate on
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 64,665
    The build-your-own MSRP is accurate.. but, the lease figures generally aren't....

    They use the standard lease rates, that may, or may not be applicable to that model... You can usually negotiate a better deal than what you come with on the website..


    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • asi12asi12 Posts: 46
    Hard top convertibles are rare to see compare to coupe, is there any particular reason like more expensive or less reliable top etc or safety issues?
  • bond007jbbond007jb Posts: 38
    edited February 2011
    Folks I have been long time member and have benefited from the esteemed knowledge of the folks on these forums and am again looking forward to your assistance. I have been looking at 3 series convertibles for a long time and off late have found some cars that have really interested me. Here is another one that I recently found:

    Found a 335i convertible from one of the small dealers who essentially buy cars from auction to be resold or exported. This car was a lease return sold at auction. Has 31000miles and asking price is 37K, has Nav, Premium, Sport, Cold Weather, Keyless, 19" wheels (which I don't want because of the rough ride, but easy enough to change). I looked at Carfax, the title is clean and it is not a salvage but following issues are concerning,

    *Rear Brake Pads replaced at 12K miles
    *Checked for engine oil leak at 21K miles
    *Parts Ordered? Engine oil and filter changed, chassis lubricated at 24K miles
    *Front & Rear brakes and rotors changed at 25K miles
    *Sold at auction 31K miles

    Seems like the car was driven hard, looking at the services performed, but it is priced lower than 2008s from "reputable" dealers. What do you folks suggest? Should I take the risk? May be able to bring the price down by another 1k or more.

    Driving Impressions
    So I checked out the car and test drove it. Drives really nice, smooth, engine sounds good, no cowl shake but that may be because of the adaptive steering, essentially numbing the feel.

    Based on the brakes being changed I am guessing this car has been tracked, or in the least driven hard. How well does the E93 hold up to tracking? How well does the entire E9x platform hold up to tracking.

    The interior has gone through some abuse, looks like a 5+yr old car's and not a 2yr old car. There are some scuff marks, and the leather is a bit dirty but that can be cleaned.

    The tread on the Yokohamas is almost gone, maybe 5k more miles left.

    The oil leak makes me think that maybe a rock or something hit the oil pan, I will get the car inspected, especially the undercarriage.

    The guy is willing to deal, can possibly get the car for 35.5K which is a great price for an 09 'vert. The car will definitely need a little bit of work but the good thing is that it has almost 2yrs of factory warranty left.
    Folks need your assistance in deciding whether I should even take the risk of going for this car or not?[/B]
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,273
    I'd pass; the brakes should last upwards of 50,000 miles. The oil should have been changed at @ 15,000 miles. And I seriously doubt that the car was tracked -at a BMW CCA HPDE at least- as CCA requires that droptops have a permanently attached hardtop AND a roll bar.
    The condition of the interior also speaks volumes; a car with a pristine interior and immaculate bodywork may have neglected mechanicals, but if the car's overall appearance is shabby I can almost guarantee that the hard parts have been given short shrift. If you really like the car, I'd still want to have it inspected by a good BMW tech. The Carfax may well be wrong- it happens more often than you think.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    edited March 2011
    I'm going along with Roadburner in his analysis.

    BMW's are not cheap cars to maintain, and if you take ownership (even at what seems to be a good price today) of one that has been "raw-hided", I can almost guarantee you will rue the day you signed the paperwork.

    The brake changes by themselves indicate severe treatment, and if you add in the poor interior quality...

    Also, the length of the first oil change would be a "kicker" for me. Youy're not likely to see the results of minimal oil changes during the first 50K miles, but at some point, you WILL see them.

    I suspect this car may well have been leased, and whoever had it got as much "goody" out of it as possible... then, let it get reclaimed by the take-back man.

    Let's just say I would probably pass. There are better cars waiting to be picked up.
  • bond007jbbond007jb Posts: 38
    Thanks folks for your replies. The first oil change was done at 13000 miles. There was another service performed before that at 1300 miles. I did get the car checked out by an IM and there were no major issues discovered. The tires are not originals and are not run flats. Regarding the brakes and pads folks on some forums mentioned that it is normal especially for the heavier convertible, some folks got theirs changed due to squealing.
  • Hi,

    I`m in the market as well for a 328i with Premium but no heated seat.

    OTD offer: 39,488

    I live in Dallas area? What about you?

    Please let me know if you completed the purchase and the final OTD


  • stunyccpastunyccpa Posts: 45
    I was given this quote yesterday & was hoping for some feedback/help.

    2011 328i
    Exterior: White (non-metallic)
    Interior: Gray Leather

    Premium Package
    Value Package

    Automatic Transmission
    Keyless Entry
    Heated front seats
    Heated steering wheel
    Navigation system
    Harmon/Kardon surround sound

    27 month lease at 10,000 miles per year, $5,000 total out of pocket, $435/month
    36 month lease same miles & out of pocket $480/month

    Car will be leased in NYC, the sales tax rate is 8.875%.

    Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • mtbmark1mtbmark1 Posts: 1
    Car Man please let me know what is the current MF & the residual value for the convertible 335I for 36 months & 1ok miles per year.
    Thanks in advance
  • cerlmccerlmc Posts: 1
    Hello, Can anyone give me some ideas on what they think I should be paying for this lease.

    I'm looking to lease a 328i with premium package, xenon lights, comfort key, and parking sensor

    the msrp is 40, 275 invoice = 36,205- i also know a manager who says they can get it 1000 under invoice

    ive been quoted around 3000 out of pocket for $379month, please tell me what you guys think?

    Thanks in advance
  • In Houston, I just bought a 328i convertible with a MSRP of $53,225. Dealer originally only offered $2100 off of MSRP. Obtained internet quotes from local BMW dealers and got $4884 off of MSRP. Car was built to order and will be shipped from Germany which may account for lower price.
  • puffin1puffin1 Posts: 276
    edited March 2011
    Roadburner, is right I'd pass. My car sounds better taken care of than the one you'er looking at. I'd get a new Car faxfor $25.00 and don't they have all the service records. I keep mine and when I sell it I give all the service records and what I spent on extas, like a clear mask, all seasons etc.
  • puffin1puffin1 Posts: 276
    I bought my first BMW in the seventies I took a trip to Germany arranged by a friend who owned a dealership.I drove it and it was called a Gray Car as it didn't pass U.S. emissions.
    Someone on here can correct me, I got the car and had it converted to meet USA emission specs. I saved alot of money as I put 3500 miles on it in Europe. Anyhow, I shipped over.
    By the way, I'm Puff's dad
  • All -

    First time, long time. I just wanted to start by saying thanks to everyone in this forum who has posted before as you have been very helpful to me. I am a first time BMW buyer and was quoted today in New Jersey (7% sales tax) on this 27 month lease for a 2011 328xi sedan. It has: Space grey metallic color, black dakota leather, premium package, value package, steptronic auto, heated steering wheel, fold down rear seats, xenon headlights, and nav system.

    MSRP: $44,690
    Cap Reduction: $3,021
    DMV Fees: $318
    Money Factor: 0.00210
    Capitalized Cost: $42,155
    Sales Tax: $1034
    Bank Fee: $925
    Total Cap: $44,114
    Cap Reduction: $3,021
    Net Cap: $41,092
    Residual: $32,623
    Monthly Payment: $468.46 (for 27 months with $4k down)

    So total OTD price was $4000, which did included TTL, first payment, etc. I think the money factor is a big high, along with the monthly payment. However my friend say it was a pretty good deal. Your thoughts????

    Also how much would you say a comparable 335xi would run? I'm going to ask my CA on Thursday when I go back, I'm just hoping someone here could give me a number to work with before I go back.

  • dew9dew9 Posts: 3
    I've been hunting for a good deal to buy out my lease which ends very soon. I have a 328i (Premium) with about 28K miles on it. My lease lists the residual at about 21.8k. The best offer I've received from any dealer in the vicinity is $24,500 for the car plus the extended warranty. That amount includes $1000 for the end of the lease payments. So essentially its $21,500 for the car and $2K for the extended warranty (no maintenance). I treat this car very well. No accidents and no rough driving. This seems pretty reasonable to me...or am I making a big mistake.

    My alternative would be to buy a similar pre-certified car (automatic + sports package) for $24,700 out the door from the same dealer (with the financing tricks I can get maintenance thrown in for free). The negative is I don't know who previously owned it and they put 6000 more miles on it that I have on my car.
  • coupedncalcoupedncal Posts: 252
    You should buy the car you have owned since new. There is less risk that way. Even if you have to pay a bit extra for it. My .02.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 11,317
    Buy your car, even if costs a little more.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2011 Pilot EX-L 4WD, 2015 Infiniti G37x Q40 AWD

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,273
    edited March 2011
    I wouldn't worry about the extended warranty on a 328i- especially if you're the original owner. I bought a CPO 2004 X3 2.5 back in 2005 and I never made a single claim under the CPO warranty. At 110,000 miles I've had no mechanical failures of any kind. I've bought one set of pads/rotors, two sets of tires, and followed the "old school" maintenance schedule. It's been the most trouble-free car that I have ever owned.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 11,317

    I've kicked myself quite a few times for NOT buying out the lease on our former 2007 X3.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2011 Pilot EX-L 4WD, 2015 Infiniti G37x Q40 AWD

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