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Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair



  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    This is a tough one...

    Under the heading of, "The devil you know...", your current engine sounds to me like it has a fairly simple problem, that said, your mechanics have proven unable to properly diagnose what's wrong.

    Under the heading of, "The grass is always greener...", you should be able to find a good condition 1995 or older motor (I believe that 1996 was the start of OBD-II for the Passat) with less than 100,000 miles on the clock for resonable money (i.e. less than $2,000). The other side of the coin here is that you have no idea if the used mill has been abused and what new problems might pop up.

    Under the heading of, "A sure bet...", you might also want to consider a rebuilt engine. Here is one source:

    I hope some of this helps. ;-)

    Best Regards,
  • vinay_svinay_s Posts: 4
    altair4, Thanks for the detailed response.

    Here are some answers.

    1.I have done 8 oil changes...religiously around the 5000 mile interval ( give or take 100 miles)
    2.Except for the one occasion when I went to Lube Express, all other changes were at an authorized VW Service center. 3.They always used synthetic oil although I donot know if it was the right specification.
    My driving conditions are a mix of city and highway driving 50:50
    4. I am not much of a hard driver. however, I do cool the engine after long drives ( 2+ hours)

    I have one further question regarding the Timing belt. Is it possible to just have the VW service guys check the timing belt to see if it needs replacing?

  • spawnmanspawnman Posts: 19
    So the dealer finally figured out the misfiring issues and will be replacing injector #3. My concern now is what is involved in doing this? Will the engine ever be the same once it's been opened and but back together? Or is this an easy fix and and any "mechanic" could do it? I guess I'm asking should I be concerned when I get her back?

    2.0t 2006 Passat
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    Replacing the injector doesn't require opening the motor. It should be fine, all the injector does is squirt the gas in from the fuel rail.
    I believe that even with the Direct Injection, it is still a matter of swapping a component. If your car is an '06, I would think it would be under warranty.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Generally speaking, replacing a fuel injector is about as simple as replacing a spark plug. Don't sweat it. ;-)

    Best Regards,
  • spawnmanspawnman Posts: 19
    Wow thanks for the responses. I already feel better.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I don't know if VW still has their maintenance schedule on their website or not. If you were to read it, it would say to have the timing belt checked at the 40, 60, 80 thousand mile services. Then it suggeted a timing belt change at 105K miles. Interestingly, Bentley Publishing, the company that prints the service manuals for VW, has an editorial sugestion to check it every 20K miles, and replace it at 60K.

    So you have to ask yourself in your best Dirty Harry voice, " ya feel lucky? Well, do ya?"
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 845
    well I found it wet way that cleaning drains is not that stupid idea.

    It was pouring on Saturday and car sat outside for 1.5 hour.
    When we got back the driver's floor mat was wet and the side curtain cover was wet too.

    I used a big drinking straw along with air compressor to blow the drains. I got some dirt out and I hope it will work better next time it rains.

  • aprilliaaprillia Posts: 1
    Just recently the following warning lights have appeared on my dashboard; ABS/brake light going on, which in turns has the STOP brake fault, consult manual.
    It happened 2 days ago and then stopped but has been coming on and off since then.
    I was wondering if i could get advise on what to do.
    How should i go about this?
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Get the trouble codes scanned at your local auto parts store, like Autozone or Advance. See what the codes say. You might find that your ABS module is defective - you can get yours rebuilt for cosndierably less than what the dealer will want for a new one. Google "ABS Volkswagen rebuilt" for options. Don't fool around with this - get it addressed soon - you don't want to find that you don't have properly functioning brakes in an emergency.
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    Altair - you're right, swapping out the pollen filter was easy, and the spark plugs were too (if one has the tools, which a buddy did). The air filter, on the other hand - we gave up - couldn't get it out. Not for lack of effort!

    Again, thanks for the sage advice.

    BTW, some asked about taking their 40K service to a local mechanic - I'd say check at under the "My VW" tab and click on "maintenance schedules" - it will tell you all the other things that need to be done at 40K. Not just OLF (for which, as I think you said, you need synth oil that's VW approved - Mobil1 0-40 is what I use - and a VW oil filter) If you have a good mechanic, I would assume they could do all those things fine. But many of the parts are propietary, not standard - e.g., the air filter - you'll probably have to but it online at a VW specialist, like; ditto the spark plugs - use OEM plugs. As Altair recommended, I used NGK's.
    Hope this helps!
  • gw1998gw1998 Posts: 6
    What is the proper name for the Air-Condition hose on the 2002 Volkswagen Passat V-6? I have a leak. Who has this part? Dealership is asking $249.00. Anywhere less?
  • harubhnharubhn Posts: 5
    The turn signal bulb on my wife's 2000 Passat wagon burned out this weekend. I purchased two (2) Sylvania 7528s, which is the part number that was provided at the local auto parts store. These are 12V/5W bulbs. However, when I removed the spent bulb from the taillight housing, I saw that etched into the base was 12V21W. Does this mean it is a 21-watt bulb? Will the car react adversely to having a bulb with a lesser wattage rating installed? I put the 7528 in, and it worked fine, but I don't want to create an electrical issue.

  • I had the same problem. Oddly the problem occurred more a certain temp outside and more when turning or bearing right. I checked everything. I eventually got so frustrated, I over filled the brake fluid to the point were I had to dap the excess out with a paper towel. Guess what the problem went away. I have since traded by 2002 passat for a 07 3.2 EOS. What a great car! good luck.
  • vw27278vw27278 Posts: 29
    The emissions light came on the other day and won't go off. In the past, it would go off after a couple of hours of driving. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Low octane gas perhaps? If so, what's the fix, $$$?

  • vw27278vw27278 Posts: 29
    Does anyone know how hard/easy it is to change a fuel filter on an '03, 1.8T?

  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Go to Autozone or Advance Auto and have them read the codes and post them here or Google them. Also, you might want post your model year, mileage and engine.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    The fuel filter is located under the right rear of the car, just in front of the right rear tire. It is protected by the rear belly pan which is held in place by 4 10 mm nuts (two on each side of the car) and one centrally located screw.

    The filter is about the size of soda pop can. It is held in place by a clamp (can't recall if more than one bolt - don't think so). The fuel lines are held in place by single use clamps - you will definitely need two new fuel line clamps to install the new filter). Use the correct clamps so your fuel line is cut by the clamps.

    The fuel line is pressurized. You will get sprayed by gasoline if you simply disconnect the hose (wasn't a problem for me; my fuel line was leaking just to the rear of the filter). You'll need to do some research on how to cut power (what fuse or relay to pull) to the fuel pump while the engine is running to minimize the pressure. You will need a catch can to dump the gasoline from the filter.

    Hope that helps. Took me about an hour (tools out to tools put away) to complete the job. The car will need to be on ramps or jack stands to complete this job safely.

    I bought the filter (an aluminum one) online at for something like $12 or so. Buy more than $50 at and you get free shipping. I have ordered from them several times and have had outstanding delivery times (order one morning and the parts were on my doorstep the afternoon of the next day).
  • vw27278vw27278 Posts: 29
    Does anyone know if it's possible to change the battery in a key remote control w/o taking it to the dealer? Or, does the dealer need to do it b/c of rolling codes, etc.?

    I have a 2003 Passat GLS.

  • passat6passat6 Posts: 3
    Can anyone help me find my spark plugs and change them by myself?
  • tsf7tsf7 Posts: 31
    Just wanted to report a happy 100k Passat owner here. I've had it since 31k miles, purchased just about two years ago. The only repair I've made is a new CV axle at 91k miles; otherwise, it hasn't had a single mechanical problem!

    I have taken good care of it, religiously maintained it with the good stuff (Mobil 1, the huge Mann oil filters, ect), and it has responded well. I changed the oil on Saturday, and it still doesnt use a drop! Moreover, the oil was remarkably clean and clear -- a sign that the engine is still in great shape. If anything, my gas mileage has improved -- I now average over 32 mpg (80/20 highway/city driving), and love every minute of it with the five-speed!

    I am also very impressed with how well the interior has held up. I have black leather, and it seriously looks only a couple years old -- I drove to lunch with a friend the other day, and he could not believe I was about to turn 100k. No wear marks, fading, or anything going on with the seats, dash, ect. Doors still shut with that nice, heavy thud, and there are no squeaks, rattles, shimmys, or any other annoyances whatsoever.

    I may be lucky, but I just wanted to remind everyone that these cars can last as long as "more reliable" brands, while being a lot more fun to drive. I drove my father-in-law's Camry for a few days last month (similar year and mileage), and it felt nowhere near as solid as the Passat at the same age -- it had a persistent squeak, the 4-cylinder engine sounded raspy (not to mention underpowered) going up a long hill (I climb 4000 feet over an 8000 ft pass going to and from work every day), and it had a noticeable shimmy above 70 mph. I'm glad I didn't give into his attempts to get me into a Toyota! The Passat has also been stellar compared to the '01 Acura TL it replaced (2 transmissions, electrical problems in 57k miles), despite the fact that we thought we were scaling down and buying something "cheaper" when we bought the Passat. :P I hope it lasts another 100k miles -- I have no reason to even think about getting rid of it now!
  • passat6passat6 Posts: 3
    I am currently having the same problem. Months ago they were supposedly ordering a part b/c they (VW Dealer Mechanic) said that the light itself was malfunctioning. I am beginning to regret purchasing this car!
  • passat6passat6 Posts: 3
    Where can I learn how to change the oil and spark plugs? I just got a message on my 2006 Passat that the left headlight is out. How can I learn to change it myself with reliable parts?
  • flyswbflyswb Posts: 1
    You should call a dealership on this. The catalytic converters are covered up to 80k miles. Mine is giving me problems now and wouldn't you know I have 87k miles on the car!
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    My '03 Passat 1.8T is rolling merrily along at 81,000K - but I've never changed the timing belt/ water pump. The question: I have a long trip coming up between now and the 85K service. Do I dare wait until 85K to do the timing belt, or am I pushing my luck?
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    You're at double the miles I have on my car. So I'm guessing a lot of your miles are highway driven. You might be fine. I don't know what I would do in your case. Have you had any of the inspections done on it? How long will your trip be, and where will you be going?

    In my case, with a lot of urban miles, I'm getting it done at 60K.
  • feilofeilo Posts: 128
    I have a '03 1.8T and I did my TB at 90K with mostly highway miles. Suggest you don't go beyond 100K ...
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    altair, that's right - almost all highway. That's why the brakes rotors are still good. (Only had to replace rear pads so far, and that was at 80K. And an 02 sensor.) So I was planning on doign the timing belt at 85K. I could ask somebody to inspect it, though - good idea. But it sounds conceivable that it will be fine until 85.

    The trip will be about 1,000 miles roundtrip - taking I 80 to southern Michigan (to see my brother, not much to do as a tourist!) So i'd get back home at about, oh, 82-83k miles.
  • jpmnovajpmnova Posts: 15
    I have an '01 Passat 1.8T and I recently did my timing belt at 92K (mostly all highway driving). From what I understand, it's difficult to know when these things might go out. I also know someone with a 2000 1.8T who didn't do his until 150,000!! It's a tough call, and an expensive job.
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