No Start Problem

ppbceb

Using the manual's instructions, turn the key and it cranks, but no start. Repeated several times. Then, pushed pedal 1/4 down, started and then stalled when I took foot off of pedal. Repeated several times. Continued 1/4 down and then slowly let off the pedal until almost all the way back, but kept foot on pedal and dropped into drive. When approaching stop sign took foot off pedal and stalled. I have to use the two foot technique if I don't want it to stall. This vehicle has the 4.0L SOCH V6 and 5 speed automatic transmission.
Help! Has anybody out there had this problem? I would appreciate any feedback you can give and you can contact me directly at email address ppbceb@juno.com. Thanks in advance for your help.

Kirstie_H

Welcome, ppbceb. Since this is a maintenance & repair forum, we don't advocate answering by e-mail. We ask that advice be posted here for all to see. That way, if anyone else is having the same problem, they can benefit from the response.

Hopefully, one of our helpful technician-members will be along to give you some advice.

kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host

0patience

Year, make and model. Need to know this information.

ppbceb

Here is additional information about ppbceb's vehicle. It's a 2000 Ford Explorer Sport 2 Dr with 4.0L SOHC and automatic transmission.
Anything else 'Outpatience'?

Sorry about the email address and asking for direct responses. This is my first time in Town Hall, but I'm a quick study.

Thanks.

PPB
20020929.7.155100

kenw8

kenw8

This is a very common problem is what I'm told. My 2000 Explorer Sport did this and it was towed in as it was on warranty. It needed a valve asy/ throttle air by/p and a valve assy. (idle air control) and it was done in less than 2 hours. My car had 33,000 miles on it. In fact I bought a 2002 Sport and with only 130 miles on it went into the shop with the same problem.

jonjon4

No Start Problem 2000 ford explorer.

Symptom: engine starts but immediately stops running, will not go to idle speed. Can keep engine running by holding gas peddle down.

Question: do you think this can be the valve asy/ throttle air by/p and a valve assy. (idle air control) as Kenw6 states? What is the cost of repair for this?

0patience

I reply to both Explorer problems, you will need to determine if there is spark, fuel or compression missing. Then check to see if there are any trouble codes stored. That will require a scanner, no matter what any other website says.
It may be an IAC or EGR problem. In which case, you can unbolt them and check that the passages are not clogged with carbon.

ppbceb

jonjon4:
my problem ended up being the IAC motor/valve.
I was out of warranty and the final bill came to $325. It included charges for diagnostic, part, fuel rail cleaner, and labor.
I do hope you're within warranty, but if you are a DIYer, as I like to think that I am, and after watching the mechanic, you can take of the plastic shield, unbolt the IAC motor/valve and either try to clean it out or get one at a parts store or Ford dealership.
PS: I have the old one and it did have build up and I'm keeping it to show others who might have the same problem.
Good luck.

jl36031

1998 ford explorer sport auto

description of problem:
when I initally start the car it feels like its going to stall and then the engine revs up then the revs drop and feels like its going to stall again this repeats several time until it reaches normal idle. ???? what is happening can anyone explain?

jl36031

i have a 98 for explorer sport
when i start the car in the morning the car sounds like it's going to stall but then it revs high and then the revs drop and then revs high again. this repeats several times before reaching the desired idle rpms. can anyone explain what is going on?

thanks

swschrad

the ford engine computer is programmed to start in rich, "limp mode," and then over the next half minute or so, over a little longer if it's 20 below outside, it will try leaning out the mixture and changing the timing to see what it can get away with. that sets the baseline on which the engine runs.

you have a sick powerplant, and your computer can't steer towards normal operation... it almost dies... and you end up in limp mode, overrich, generating carbon to guck up the pollution controls and burning excess fuel.

you need to have a general tuneup and cleaning including putting your engine "on the box".

I would be willing to bet your plugs and wires are the worst of the issue, but there might also be some sensors or gate controls for air or exhaust that are gooped up.

that's what's happening and why, but you need to get the appropriate service done to end it. just throwing parts at it is going to be more costly.

oh, yes, that part of the manual that says you can go up to 100,000 miles without a tuneup? laughed until I cried, now I know where the Mad magazine greats went when they left that rag. you don't get 100k on no maintenance unless you tow the truck on a trailer everywhere.

svt98

It is the I.A.C (idle air control ). It is gummed up and cant respond as fast as the PCM wants it to. You can usally clean them once and get away with it.

jl36031

thanks for the help, sending the patient to the mechanic for a tune up and i am going to replace the IAC.

jl36031

jl36031

can anyone tell me why passengers in my explorer tell me they can feel the suspension when I make a right turn, or even turning the wheel when parking. i don't feel anything on my side when I make a turn. What can be the cause?

swschrad

bottom out and go boom? squeak? dip? dip and spit? shake a bit?