Head Gasket problems
I have a 98 Bonneville SSE. The cooling system uses dex cool. Friday the low coolant light came on and went off right away. Saturday the light came on so I bought dex cool and refilled the tank. Today the car took a sh*t. The oil has dex cool in it. I was told that it was probably the head gasket, but here's my problem the car has 80,000 miles on it, is it common that such a large part should go when the car is not that old? The car is out of warranty and I've only had it for a year. Could this be a problem with just my bonneville or does anybody else have this problem. I take my car every 3,000 miles for oil changes (I even use vavoline max life oil for cars that have over 75,000 miles)I have had it tuned up in April (using the best parts on the market) I have also replaced the sending unit for the fuel tank, and put new brakes on it all the way around with drums and rotors. Is my car a chronic lemon or is this happening to anybody else?
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
Possible blessing in disguise that you caught it without having an engine catastrophe, like at 90 mph and overheating.
80K seems too early for a car that has been taken care of to blow a head gasket, but that 3.8L does have a lot of that sort of problem. Maybe you can combine it with a valve job and put the car back on the road for the next 100K!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
gawd, ain't plastic parts wonderful?
2 Trannys somewhere in the 40k's
several alternators, 3 I think
warped rotors
2 waterpumps
coil pack, twice
3 serpentine belts
and now:::::drum roll:::::
intake manifold at $1100 which resulted in a new engine at $5400 + labor.
Book is $7300 on the car.
>>>>>
It is dealer work and we bought the car in NY. There's an emissions warranty? Car has 64K, and is a 97.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
>>>>>>>
I'll take a look. It's definitely worth a try. Thanks!
Completely discouraged with the whole thing.
I'll let you know the ultimate outcome.
>>>>>>
You would think so, wouldn't you? But you know, I was looking at the TSB thread and one of the hosts posted a TSB that related to a similar leakage problem on the Sunfires and Cavaliers. It stated that GM would pay for the repairs specific to the leakage, but not to any engine damage that was caused by it. Not that this has anything to do with my Bonneville, but it gives me the feeling that that's the stand they'll take.
Here's the vin #1G2HX52K5VH276018. I'd call Pontiac myself, but I doubt they'll talk to me until this is concluded. I am going to run a carfax report on this car, after we find out where we stand. It's a shot in the dark, but this car has been so problematic, that I'm wondering it it might of been a buyback. It was a leftover, one of few on the lot. But, I was going to wait until the investigation was over and get the 1 month deal at Carfax so I can also run any cars I'm considering replacing this one with.
Thanks for the help
>>>>>>>
Maybe. I guess until I know if the emissions code is the same I shouldn't get my hopes up. Thanks for digging for me, I really appreciate it. Sure would be nice to come out on the top of this thing.
Would love to hear from others with same problems to see what strength in numbers can do!!
Over the past year, I've noticed more and more blue smoke being generated by my eclipse from the exhaust and decreasing oil pressure also. Especially after the car is warmed up. During cold starts the oil pressure is fine for a little while, then begins to decrease. Even at 3000rpm when the car is warm, the oil pressure is lower than it is at 1500 rpm during a cold start.
My car does have 143k miles on it..
start thinking in terms of either a rebuild, a drop-in engine, or a trade. if the oil pressure was low in all circumstances, I'd think an oil pump might be the ticket, but this smells like crank wear. I would think the basic sound of the engine would have changed as well with this, to maybe a more mellow and flabby sound, a snore rather than a snarl. if there is any knocking or clanking from the engine, you are close to the end. the blue smoke is probably from blowing oil by the rings, so it's not like a set of bearings is all you need.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I've been adding a quart of oil about every 2500 miles lately. I had the low oil pressure problem checked a year ago by a local dealer. They tested a similar turbo spyder side by side with mine and the readings were about identical. But what I didn't like was...when they ran the test, both cars were cold. And they only checked the oil pressure upto 3000 rpm.
I wish they ran the test with the cars fully heated up, as this is when mine begins to show signs of drastically dropping oil pressure and continues to increasingly drop at high rpm. The needle on the gauge will only climb as high as to the border of the normal operating range at 3000rpm when the car is warm. As the rpms begin to rise from that point on, the needle begins to fall below the normal operating range increasingly all the way up to the redline.
This is an issue which started around the 100k mile mark. 43k miles later, the car still starts and runs great. But lately, I've noticed the oil pressure looks like it's barely striving to stay above the minimum operating range and I'm starting to get worried.
But with 143k miles on the original engine, I guess I can't be too bummed out..