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2013 and earlier-Honda CR-V Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • funsize1funsize1 Posts: 1
    I received this from a dealer: CRV EX-L w/ navigation: Invoice-28100, holdback 590, Total dealer cost= 27510. My price= 27499 $750 down payment assistance to be added at time of purchase. This did not seem like such a great deal. Help from someone more knowledgable about these matters appreciated.
  • I got my CRV EX AWD from Brown's in Glen Bernie for $23,300 including the destination fee.
  • ellenellellenell Posts: 2
    After test driving and researching several small SUVs, I decided to buy the CR-V. I am living and working in Montgomery County, MD, and did my shopping in this area. Having not had to buy a new car in 11 years, I was surprised at how difficult it still is to obtain a firm price from dealers, not just Honda, but all of them. For some of the dealerships that have links "Click Here For Internet Price," it is only a ruse to get your email, but they refuse to give a price unless you come into the dealership. Once in the dealerships, I encountered endless strategies designed to get me to buy immediately.

    I chose to buy my CR-V at Ourisman Honda in Bethesda. The salesman sent me a very good price via email, and it is one block from my office. If you shop there, the salesman was very respectful, but the other financial staff are sharks. More on that later.

    The price quoted via email for the CR-V EX-L without Navigation was $25,895. According to the dealership's online inventory, there were several autos in stock, all listed online at the same MSRP. However, when I was at the dealership, I learned that all but one of the EX-Ls were equipped an added "Dealership Protection Package," full of extras that I would never pay for, like stripes on the side of the car and wheel locks. They were charging $995 for this package, but I managed to get the sales people to remove the charge, partially by using that mysterious $750 Honda rebate that other users have mentioned on this forum. However, I notice on my invoice that I paid tax on it :(.

    I added the protective coating package, which was approx $1000 (I didn't receive an itemized bill of sale), because I don't have a garage, and I want to do what I can to protect the exterior.

    I was charged tax on the dealer's delivery and processing charges, which doesn't seem right to me. Have others had a similar experience?

    The financial sharks managed to sell me an extended warranty, but then when I read it at home, I saw that there was a deductible that wasn't disclosed during the sale. Plus, the amount added to my monthly payment was not truthfully disclosed. I went back the next day to cancel the extended warranty, and the shark put additional pressure on me to keep it. Offered to remove the deductible. When I insisted that it be cancelled, he said that they could only take the charge off the last months of the loan, and that the change wouldn't show up in my account for several months.

    Here's what my new car cost:
    CR-V EX-L Red w/ grey leather interior: 25,895
    Delivery charge: 830
    Dealer processing charge: 200
    Protective coating 1,000 (approx)
    Tax 1,722
    Registration/Title 287

    OUT THE DOOR AT $29,934
  • billy3554billy3554 Posts: 148
    Some Honda dealers in Maryland do provide good pricing information. I have found those include Criswell, Sport, O'Donnel. Ourisman, in my opinion, is not one of those dealers.

    I visited Ourisman once and ran into the $995 package of useless stuff they kindly add to seemingly every vehicle. I ran away and will never go back.

    Of course the price dealers provide over the internet is rarely the best price but it, at least, allows a buyer to judge a dealer's overall pricing philosophy. I have found dealers who provide good pricing upfront are less likely to resort to tricks and are more transparent about pricing than those who refuse to provide such pricing. Personally, I avoid any dealer who will not provide a price in response to an internet inquiry.

    One thousand dollars for what is essentially wax with a fancy name is a dubious expense. Today's manufacturing processes provide great paint protection which really only requires a good paste wax or such every six months or so. My bet is the dealer made $700 to $800 profit out of that $1,000. Of course the dealer will point to the so-called insurance which comes with the products. However, most likely no person has ever truly benefited from such insurance, too much small print.

    Unfortunately for the buyer, that particular F&I product is not refundable as it is now part of the vehicle, a hard product. F&I managers love such products as they will not usually see a charge back since the customer cannot cancel.

    Extended warranties are soft F&I products. They can be cancelled and the F&I folks will see a charge back, which impacts their pay. That is why they dislike having customers cancel such soft products.
  • will123will123 Posts: 8
    I want to purchase a car within a month and have read about the recommended strategy of making the purchase as close to month end as possible. This makes a lot of sense to me but here is my question. If I reach a deal on May 30 but the exact car I want isn't in inventory and will take a few days or longer to reach the dealership, will this count in the dealer's May or June sales figures? In other words, will the dealer only want to sell what is in their current inventory and less willing to deal on a car that is not in inventory? Thanks - I have learned so much from this forum!
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,708
    edited May 2013
    Many dealerships want you to buy from there lot inventory or they try to hit you with a small finder's fee 300 to 500 which is b.S.. Dont let them sucker you into the extra money. If they want your business make them find your model with no charge. The better dealerships will just find/ swap/ or order your vehicle if its not in there stock.

    To avoid this problem check the Dealers web sites and inventory before calling to inquire or to buy. Send emails out to several dealerships for a E price quote to get a feel of pricing in your area.. At the end of the month Call or visit these dealerships the last 2 days of any month for the sale.

    If your buyers Order/ Bill of Sale is written up Signed and paid for by the end of the month it counts for that months sale.. Vehicle does not have to be there.

    90 % of times i will have the buyers order faxed to me at my house on the last day of the month.. I then pick up the vehicle when dealers has prepped car and its ready for P/U. I am loyal to no dealership . My motto has always been best price closest to my house gets my business.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • will123will123 Posts: 8
    Hi Brian - thanks for your quick reply. I really appreciate it!
  • andyman1970andyman1970 Posts: 42
    Maybe not this year.

    Dealers in my area are a little more hungry this month. The best prices are now improved $500+ dollars on the CR-V quotes I received last month. Very tempting....
  • sfurqansfurqan Posts: 14
    Took delivery of my CRV AWD LX. Paid 23000 OTD with lifetime PowerTrain Warranty from a dealer in VA.
  • billy3554billy3554 Posts: 148
    A so called lifetime power train warranty is basically useless. No business could actually do this and remain in business. The small print and requirements are designed to assure no payouts are made. Such warranties are intended to make the buyer believe they are getting something for nothing and, I suppose, trick some buyers into paying more for the vehicle. As with any product offered by a dealer, it is best to check out independent reviews on the internet.
  • sfurqansfurqan Posts: 14
    Another thing to note is that it is not transferable the benefits (whatever) are only to the owner and really end with the sale.

    I do not intend to keep the vehicle for more than 2-3 years.
  • r_sethr_seth Posts: 6
    edited May 2013
    Congratulations on the new CRV!

    Please share the details of your quote/purchase.... (Base+ Destination Fee +Documentation Fee, Applicable Tax, Title/Tags+ others, etc) so that we can compare the quotes.

    Also, please do share the name of the dealership in Virginia where you got this deal. $23k OTD is great price , the best I have received is $24k OTD from "College Park Honda" in MD.
  • charles_guycharles_guy Posts: 55
    >>I visited Ourisman once and ran into the $995 package of useless stuff they kindly add to seemingly every vehicle. I ran away and will never go back.

    same sorta thing at hamilton in jersey. $449+7%tax pro-pack (wheel locks, mudguards, cargo tray)

    about 150 total or less from other dealers shipped over the web and probly less on ebay

    when you gotta walk you gotta walk

    249 doc + 449 propack doesent get the deal done at hamilton honda for me
  • sfurqansfurqan Posts: 14
    edited May 2013
    They pretty much backtracked all the cost from the final OTD of 23000. I took Honda extended care for 7 years/100000 miles and paid an additional 1650.

    I bought it from Hendrick Honda Woodbridge, VA.

    I finalized everything on the phone and even paid $ 500 down by credit card on the phone. They did something called express checkout. I was out in 90 minutes including a final test drive of the vehicle I was getting.
  • sfurqansfurqan Posts: 14
    With VA registration. Paid 3.2 % tax which is included in the OTD.
  • billy3554billy3554 Posts: 148
    The one time I considered a vehicle from Ourisman I quickly realized they did not offer the best deal and I decided to walk. As an easy escape mechanism, I mentioned I was only interested in a white vehicle. I had observed earlier they did not have any white vehicles on the lot.

    Amusingly the sales manager, a real sleeze IMHO, mentioned he would be happy to get one for me. Of course it would cost an additional $1,000. I quickly asked why he thought I would pay an additional $1,000 for a vehicle I knew was in inventory at several other local Honda dealers. He sort of smiled but really did not say much. Any opportunity for an additional buck I suppose.

    I wonder how many times such games actually work?
  • billy3554billy3554 Posts: 148
    I just bought a new CRV in Virginia.

    After we negotatiated the price of the vehicle, I was hit with a $600 documentation fee. I responded to the sales lady that was unacceptable and I would only pay $100. I also told her I understood the sales contract had to show the $600 so as to avoid potential discrimination suits for the dealer. I requested they reduce the sales price to compensate or I would walk. Without much hoopla, they quickly reduced the price.

    People really need to understand the documentation fee charged by any dealer is essentially profit. That fee must be added to the price of the vehicle to arrive at the true selling price.

    Any argument made by a dealer that the fee covers unusual costs is inaccurate. All dealer costs are included in the selling price of the vehicle. The price of any product includes the cost plus profit, that is basic cost accounting. Separating the price and the documentation fee is intended solely to deceive a buyer into thinking they got a better deal.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,708
    NIce post.......... Doc fee's are.... BS'.... just another way dealers make a few more dollars. If you buy a car for 500 below invoice price and you pay 300 in dealer doc fees that means the dealer really sold you the car for 200 below invoice. Dont let them sucker you.
    Always know the dealerships doc fees before you make that dealership your offer price to buy. If the dealership will not remove his high doc fees i simply add them onto my offer price to counter not paying them.
    Doc fees of 75, maybe 100 are ok if your getting a good deal but not 200 to 700 dollars added onto that sale price , dispute and fight these charges tell dealers its a deal breaker.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • billy3554billy3554 Posts: 148
    It is not that profit for a car dealer is bad, everyone needs to make a fair profit. It is the fact most car dealers find it fair to resort to deceptive documentation or other dealer fees to achieve that profit that is wrong.

    A good source for car sales is prepared by a long time Toyota Dealer in Florida. And, as we all know, car dealers in Florida have perfected this art of deception to an advaned level.

    To disseminate this information he apparently has a radio program and a web site Earl Stewart On Cars which has a wonderful amount of information. Apparently other car dealers in Florida are not happy with Mr. Stewart. Of course, we customers are very happy.

    His revelations regarding automobile dealer fees include.

    Dealers always call such fees by obscure names to confuse customers.

    Dealers always try to include the word fee in the name as it suggests someting legal, which it is not.

    Dealers charge such fees solely to increase profits in a manner that is not noticed by the customer.

    Dealers can price a vehicle below MSRP or cost and end up making a huge profit via the various dealer fees

    Anyone buying a vehicle should take a look at the informatoin available at the On Cars web site. Since it comes from an actual car dealer it is quite enlightening.
  • ken117ken117 Posts: 247
    Read an interesting article recently about one of the nation's largest mega car dealership groups. The particular group sells many brands all over the country and proudly announced it averages more than $1,300 in additional profit for each car sold in their finance and insurance, F&I, offices.

    F&I folks all over the country are asking how they can achieve such success and there are plenty of folks advising them how.

    Now really, how many customers would willingly hand the guy or gal lurking behind the F&I door $1,300 after they spent hours fighting with the sales person about the sales price?

    And how much of this $1,300 profit was achieved via deception?
  • karhill1karhill1 Posts: 152
    The United States Department of Justice and the Consumer Financial Protection Board are currently investigating auto dealer practices related to financing and those other F&I goodies which comprise such profits. If our dysfunctional Government is concerned there must be some real problems.

    One of the concerns causing much consternation among F&I folks is the dealer practice of adding to the actual finance rate for which a customer qualifies. This is the practice where a bank will qualify the customer at two percent and the kindly F&I person will bump the rate to something higher. This is known as dealer reserve. In such cases, the dealer realizes part of the increased financing costs as profit.

    Clearly this is deception.
  • billy3554billy3554 Posts: 148
    The $1,300 they brag about is an average. That means while I pay very little F&I profit as I never buy anything in the F&I office and always finance at a very low rate there is some other person paying the $2,600 necessary for them to achieve the average of $1,300.

    I should probably thank the other person as I likely pay less for the vehicle due to their willingness to contribute so much to the dealer's bottom line.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,708
    edited May 2013
    Let me add to this post. This is how you arrive at finding a good price for your model car and what it is selling for in your area. All new car price purchases should be formulated like this below; When you buy like this you need nobody else to help you with pricing. This involves only you contacting many dealerships to find out pricing .
    The last 2 days of any month is where you will get the dealers best pricing due to sales incentives that dealerships need to make. Never buy any car before the end of the month you wont get the dealers best price. the 1st 3 weeks are for Research emailing /visiting dealerships /getting e-quotes etc. making all dealerships contacted know that your buying at months end for your xxx price. The more dealerships you get involved the better you will do with getting a good price. You have to play the game with these guys..

    Here is the starting formula to arrive at price. The suggest dealers MSRP and Invoice price are numbers made up by car manufacturers. We always start with Invoice price. Throw away that msrp number it means nothing. Its there to deceive you. i believe the invoice price is really not the true cost of the vehicle.... but we have no way of really finding out but to take the word of web sites like KBB, consumer reports , edmunds, etc.

    you take:

    Invoice price of xxx
    Minus dealer Hold-back
    Minus any rebates or cash Incentives
    Minus dealers doc fee's/ unless he will remove them off bill of sale.
    total cost of vehicle
    Add taxes and DMV fee's for your OTD price

    Always say no to anything the dealer is selling along with his extended warranty.
    You should always get pre approved by outside financing before buying a car making the dealer beat your best finance rate.
    If you do these easy things you will always get a good new car price and not get ripped off by car dealerships....

    Dealers will receive more company cash sale incentives as the year winds down so if you were to buy a 2013 in july or august you might save up to another 1500 dollars off this formula.
    The key factor in getting dealers best pricing is buying at any months end/ getting many dealerships involved.. Using that buyers formula.

    Good luck

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • nikinmdnikinmd Posts: 3
    FWIW, This is not a dealership I would ever buy a car from, or deal with again. They are listing vehicles on their website that they will not verify as in stock, and the internet sales mangers - and general sales managers - are not at all responsive to emails and do not follow-up. Another local dealership will sell to me at a good price, and at the price I want, but can't get their hands on the model I want, yet College Park - who seems to have it - just won't cooperate with them at all, or me unless I am willing to come in to the dealership, which I won't at this point. Can't get an estimate either, though it's moot without knowing if they can actually give me the car that I want!
    Buyer Beware.
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,708
    If you make any dealership agree to your buying price by phone negotiations you will not have this problem. you can have him fax you a buyers order or just secure your deal with a credit card deposit till you can get to the dealership. I buy this way 95 % of the time . avoids all the bs.

    College park Honda will play games. Thats why i tell everyone................... End of the month is when you start your buying process. Most dealership are looking to make as much money off the Sucker buyers and this is how they play. The smart buyer waits til the end of the Month asking several dealerships to meet his asking price for the sale that day.There is no reason to go into any dealership unless your signing paper work or doing research on that vehicle.. DO the brunt of the work//get your price by phone negotiations with the internet manager. If any dealer cant give you a yes or no on your pricing hang up and move on to the next Herb dealership. You do to them what they do to us. Pit one dealer against the next. Lie to them like they do to you. I always like to tell dealerships that are closest to me that there are 10 dealers at this price.... match or beat for the sale today. You have to play the game.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • sfurqansfurqan Posts: 14
    I just bought a Honda CR-V and also took the extended warranty for 7 years or 100000 miles. I paid about 1600 for it. I am told it can be cancelled within 60 days.

    I wanted to know if getting the Honda extended warranty is worth it and what others have paid to ensure my dealer is not ripping me off on the extended warranty.

  • gwdewgwdew Posts: 9
    edited May 2013
    Try googling "sarccucci hondacare" (i think) and "bernardi hondacare". You may have to enter some info, but an email should arrive within minutes that give you quotes on different extended warranty plans
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,708

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • jatanjatan Posts: 92
    Honda extended warranty:

    Here's 3 online dealers you can get quotes from -- I would go for $0 deductible plans

    $1600 is too much since you can get it cheaper from those online dealers -- you can cancel yours, but if you want to sign up again from those online dealers then you might have to pay a small fee (contact one of those dealers to see how much the fee is)

    If you normally get repairs done at shops and want to play it safe then the extended warranty from those online dealers might be worth it (not worth $1600 that you paid). If you're able to do few repairs on your own then you're probably better off risking it -- if something small comes up then you can fix it on your own and if something big comes up then you can just take it to an independent shop after the factory warranty expires (3yr/36k mi bumper to bumper & 5yr/60k mi powertrain)
  • 2013 CRV with EX: I was just quoted $22,800(inc dest) + tax, lic, fees. Is this a good deal
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