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Clutch job on S4...need advice.

krautkarvr6krautkarvr6 Member Posts: 23
My friend and I are contemplating replacing his clutch and flywheel on his S4. My questions is has anyone ever done one of these jobs? What should I watch out for? Are there any nightmare obstacles I will encounter...etc. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Also...we have all the tools, factory service manual and clutch alignment tool. But is there anything else I will encounter that the manual doesn't warn about? thanks.


  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Are you working on a lift?
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    ...done a tranny removal before? If not, you may be a bit dismayed at the shear "grunt" of the event. It is heavy work. Years ago, I did a few clutch plate replacements. I'd get the car up on stands and jerk the tranny onto my chest, etc. The extra guy to be there on his feet, fetching tools, calling the ambulance, what have you, is a good idea. (:oÞ
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's a sucky job without a lift and power tools and nifty extenders and swivel sockets.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    You might want to purchase the dual-mass flywheel ahead of time. THe flywheel is also liquid filled to quell excess vibrations (and clattering). It's an expensive and heavy (close to 24 lbs) flywheel.

    You can use a single mass flywheel as well.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh, I didn't know that. What's it filled with? The Germans love this idea, I've seen it before.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    I have no idea what's it filled with.

    I also wonder, since the G35c 6MT also has a dual-mass flywheel....is there any filling?
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    MIght be some sort of silicone, similar to the stuff in viscous couplings in AWD systems
  • krautkarvr6krautkarvr6 Member Posts: 23
    Yes...I once did a tranny removal and replacement of the Turbo 350 in my 79 Camaro. That sucker was at least 150 lbs with torque converter full of fluid and all. It was pretty basic doing an automatic but you are right....lots of huffing and puffing....bleeding knuckles and cursing. My friend went through the ordeal of holding it up in position while I threaded the housing bolts. It was tough because he only weighed 130lb and was a very skinny guy. He knew full well if his arms unlocked he'd be crushed. We were actually so dirty after the first day (covered in ATF) that we decided to just sleep under the car since it was summer and we'd be right back at it in the morning. Which we did and we were. I remember waking up with a moth in my ear.
          Mr Shift....no I dont have a lift. We will be working with jack stands and a jack. Just like the high school Camaro days. : ) Which is why I started this thread. I know the Audi S4 ain't no Camaro. And yes I have done manual trannys as well. Once in my Scirocco and once in my brothers F-150. So I am very aware that German cars can be FULL of mechanical surprises. Thanks for the replies guys..

    Also....my friend is getting a lighter aftermarket flywheel and a performance clutch for the S4 so I don't know if it is dual or single mass. In fact I've never heard that terminology.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well there's nothing like a good car adventure, so maybe you can take a crack at it. However, I would still insist on some MINIMAL requirements, and one of those would be a transmission dolly with an adjustable cradle, which you should be able to rent easily enough.

    Also the factory manual would be nice if it isn't too pricey. I'm a little concerned that you may need some special tools, without which you will be very frustrated, so I would certainly investigate what weirdo puller or snap ring plier or clutch alignment tool or spring compressor or whatever you are going to need.

    Work safe, work clean, quit when you are tired.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    If you did that, you'd never get done. Need some bolstering, and encouragement for "impossible seeming" jobs? Try watching Monster Garage on (I think) the Discovery Channel every Monday, starring Jesse James, a custom fabricator extrordinaire.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, okay, if you have his talents, then you can work when you are tired. But more often than not, if you're tired, you start to rush, and then you do something silly.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    the aftermarket flywheels for the S4 will be single-mass (standard) clutch...just lighter, either material changes or selective material removal or both
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Since the S4 doesn't go any further than 94, I assume that is the year?
    If you have SRS system and do not have a lift to work on, as was stated, this is definitely one that you may want to rethink doing yourself.
    Here is the info.

    NOTE: On air bag equipped vehicles, refer to Air Bags (Supplemental Restraint Systems), Service Precautions . Also refer to Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming .

    Vehicles with audio coded antitheft system refer to Radio/Stereo, Service Precautions .
    Disconnect battery ground cable, then raise and support vehicle.
    Remove upper engine to transmission bolts.
    Disconnect electrical connectors from back-up lamp switch and speedometer vehicle speed sensor.
    Remove cover for fuel injectors, then remove clip securing wiring for back-up lamps.
    Remove bump stop for hood, then install engine support tool No. 10-222A, or equivalent. Attach mounting hook to left engine mount, then pretension engine.
    Remove noise insulation shield and noise insulation shield bracket.
    Remove crossmember from below exhaust system.
    Remove complete exhaust system, then the transmission cover plate.
    Remove starter and secure aside.
    Remove driveshaft.
    Place shift lever in 3RD gear, then unbolt clamp for torque and select rods. Shift rod is separated by pulling shift lever back in direction of 4TH gear .
    Loosen bolts for torque support, then remove heat shield for inner right joint from transmission.
    Disconnect left and right drive axles at transmission and secure aside.
    Remove mounting bolts for right and left transmission support/subframe.
    Disconnect automatic seat belt pre-tensioning cables and brackets from transmission
    Remove clutch slave cylinder and position aside. Do not open hydraulic system. Do not operate clutch pedal after remove slave cylinder .
    Position support tool No. VAG-1383-A, or equivalent, and/or a suitable transmission jack under transmission, then pretension transmission.
    Remove lower transmission to engine mounting bolts, then with a suitable pry bar, lever transmission away from engine and lower from vehicle.

    Loosen pressure plate bolts diagonally in stages, then remove pressure plate and clutch disc.
    Inspect clutch release bearing and replace if worn or noisy.
    Install clutch disc with centering tool No. 3176, or equivalent.
    Lock flywheel into position using flywheel locking tool 10-201, or equivalent.
    Install pressure plate on locating pins, then tighten bolts diagonally and in stages to specifications.
    Remove centering and flywheel locking tools, then install transmission assembly

    Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
    Ensure presence of engine to transmission alignment dowel sleeves.
    Transmission to engine bolts must be tightened to specifications before installing clutch slave cylinder.
    Use a suitable pry bar to press clutch slave cylinder into transmission bore and install mounting bolt. A special pointed mounting bolt is available as a replacement to facilitate installation of clutch slave cylinder.
    Threads in flanged shafts of transmission and rear final drive must be cleaned of any residue from thread locking compound.
    Tighten all fasteners to specifications.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    In the words of Willie Nelson, "Turn out the lights. The party's over."
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