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Suzuki Aerio Maintenance and Repair



  • As has been noted on here before, if you don't have a good local tire dealer, you can get good tires from, dirt cheap. I bought a set of the following tires for $188.00 plus $41.26 for shipping all four from Louisiana to Texas.

    215/50HR-15 Kumho ECSTA 711

    They have warehouses around the country and I think in Hawaii and Alaska that limits the shipping distance and therefore the cost. In any case, that was $47.00 per tire plus $10.31.5 per tire shipping and $14.00 per tire mount and balance at my local tire store, so for a little over $71.00 per tire, I had a really good set of tires that no local store would sell to me for less than $90.00 per tire plus mount and balance, so I saved $33.00+ per tire and I did not have to pay sales tax. That size is less than 0.08% different in diameter from the 195x55x15 tires that are standard on the car, and they are smaller, correcting the very slight upward error of the Suzuki digital speedometer. The 205x60x15's are 5.2% larger than the OEM tires, meaning that they register 3 mph low at 60 mph, and that could end up costing you a ticket. The 215x50x15's are the only size that is really close in 15's, though you can use 185x60's and still be less than 1% off. If you don't mind approximations, you can go to an online tire calculator like this one:

    You still have to calculate the percentage difference, but you can get what you need. The 215x50's rub very slightly in extreme bumps, but I haven't had any problems except when I got into some sticky mud that pushed off my decorative moldings, but that might have happened anyway with the mud that I was into. The problem with the 185x60's, if you can get them, should be checked for load capability and you will get some distinct tail end float in hard cornering. That's why I went to the wider tires in the first place...the regular floated out too much for my taste. Also, the Kumho's I mentioned are uni-directionals with a V sipe, which makes them handle really well on wet pavement, which standard all-weathers do not. The standard tires on the Suzuki might as well be water skis in the rain.

    Good luck
  • i have a 04 suzuki aerio.the clutch is slipping,is there anything i can do to adjust this
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    I may not be correct,however, I believe that clutch to be fluid controlled, hence there is no adjustment.
    Check the fluid level.
  • brianm6brianm6 Posts: 5
    Thanks to logmar for the info on the oil, got that done

    I checked the spark plugs and found them loose, did not have to use a handle on the socket/extension to take them off!! I had no info on the torque for the plugs, I set them at 20 foot/pounds, should do the trick...may not be a bad idea to check your spark plugs if you are experiencing poor gas mileage and or loss of power.

    If any one knows the torque for the plugs, would not mind knowing how far off I'am at 20 foot/pounds....
    I agree with the reply to the clutch problem: you may need a new clutch unless your fluid is low (or has somehow gotten air in the system); then make sure your foot is always on the foot rest, never resting on the clutch unless you are shifting gears (I also believe in leaving the shift lever alone, unless shifting gears also...
  • According to the Suzuki Aerio service Manual, the answer is 18.0 lb-ft, FYI.

    V :D
  • brianm6brianm6 Posts: 5
    Many thanks on the plug torque, will correct soon. I was surprise to find them so loose, and 2 of them had marks of leaking compression (car has now ~56K miles)
  • rbarnettrbarnett Posts: 3
    you are correct about the clutch,it is fluid driven,checked that.i have to bite the bullet and install a for the reply.ricky b.
  • bachmanbachman Posts: 31
    Mine is an 03 but I had a mechanically gifted friend help me once by adjusting the pedal position ?? as it was starting to slip before it want bad. This may not be what you are asking but I did want to add that online I found clutch kits for around $200 when I need to start shopping. Someone in town had one laying around and let it go for around $100. MY clutch went early likely due to my kids letting their frinds learn a manual trans on my car .... just a guess but it happened aroud 55,000 miles or so... good luck !
  • It's a hydraulic clutch, and I don't know why that makes it any less adjustable than any other clutch. Granted most clutches don't have a huge range of adjustment, but my mechanic said that he could adjust it somewhat. There are wet clutches and dry clutches, but that is a whole different subject.
  • dkarasindkarasin Posts: 10
    I have a 2003 Aerio SX AWD with the 4 speed Automatic transmission. I have had two problems that seem to occur more when the car is cold. The car will not shift into 4th gear until the engine cool light goes out. The dealer told me this was normal but I have had this car since '04 and I don't remember it doing this until about a year ago. Also the car will not always shift into the low gears from a stop. I can manually do it this some times causes a code P0717. The dealer checked the wiring and then decided that the Transmission Control Module was bad and not covered under the 7yr/100,000 mile power train warranty. The cost is $770 plus programming and installation.

    There is now way I can spend nearly $1000 to fix this. Has anyone used one from a junk yard? What years and models would work?
  • dkarasindkarasin Posts: 10
    I hate my 2003 Aerio SX AWD. It has had a host of problems but the brakes and abnormal tire wear have not been among them. I have 90k miles on it and I did replace the front pads once and did not do anything to the rotors (shame on me). This reminds me the next time I rotate the tires I need to check the rear brakes.

    I have a second set of steel wheels 14" for snow tires. I run snows for two winters and then run the next spring and summer to finish them off. Last summer I bought my first replacement 15" tires for summer use.

    Driving habits, tire pressure, and alignment all affect tire life and driving habits drastically affect brake life.

    I hope you don't have other problems with your car.
  • Does anyone carry a repair manual (like chiltons but they dont) that would be for the 2004 Suzuki Aerio SX for the do it yourselver.

  • dkarasindkarasin Posts: 10
    Great News!

    When I got my car back from the dealer I read the warranty information. The manual states that the Traction Control Module (TCM) is covered Parts & Labor for 7 years / 100,000 Mi.

    I wonder if that will fix the problem.
  • dkarasindkarasin Posts: 10
    I have not seen a good one anywhere. Suzuki does sell the shop manuals. Be prepared they are not cheap. try the following.

    ">Suzuki manualslink title

    Then click on Vehicle information from the left and then Service manuals. They also sell Diagnostic trouble codes and service bulletins.
    Best of luck.
  • carthellcarthell Posts: 128
    I have a 2003 Aerio with 77.2k miles on the clock. I'm trying to resolve a conflict between what the manufacturer recommends and what every other resource on the net suggests. My maintenance schedule says that the A/T fluid does not need changing until the 105k mile mark. Since the fluid level in the transmission case has not changed at all since buying the car off the lot new (wow), I'm inclined to go with that. Everybody else is stating that the transmission should be flushed every 30k miles.

    Am I the only person here who hasn't changed the fluid yet? If you chose a more frequent interval to change the fluid, was the motivation precautionary or because of a specific issue?

  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    First it does not matter that the fluid level has not changed; it is whether the fluid is dirty; the condition of the fluid.
    That flush at 30,000 is a bunch of is made by repair facilities to generate business.
    I had 3 Toyota's and I ran them for 400,000 miles and changed fluid every 100,000
    I have 2 Chevy Cobalt's one with 100K on it and one with over 200K....I change them about 90,000 since Cobalt has no stick to check the fluid (yeah can you believe it, no tranny stick).
    My Aerio is an 06 AWD with only 12 K on it....I changed the fluid in the rear as
    recommended at 7500.....but I do not intend to change the trans fluid until close to 100K.
    One thing....if they drop the pan to change the fluid and filter you will still have dirty fluid in the torque converter which is why I recommend the "flush" where they hook it up to a machine and all of the fluid gets changed.
    Unless the fluid is dirty or discolored I would wait until close to 100K to change the fluid if it were me.
    Changing trans fluid at 30 K would be akin to changing oil at 2000 miles.
    Hope this helps.
  • rprez8rprez8 Posts: 2
    Got a 2002 aerio bought new.Never had any problems but battery.When i use a/c or defrost car shakes and bogs down when compresser clutch kicks on.Can anyone HELP?
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    When is the last time you tuned it up ?
    Sounds to me like the plugs need changed...maybe air filter as well.
    Of course it could be a low voltage condition (check alternator output); but I really feel it is plugs.
  • rprez8rprez8 Posts: 2
    thx for your reponse but done all that.Think it is icu valve.Takes laser plugs 13$ a piece ty.
  • tony78tony78 Posts: 16
    Your problem sounds like a problem with the IAC ( idle air control) valve,,and or the vacuum passages that this solenoid switch controls. This device has a pintle, a pintle looks like a little piston with a point on one end, in response to engine load, the pintle moves back and forth and allows bleed air to bypass the closed throttle plate,this action increases the engine rpm. The vacuum passage that goes from the front of the throttle plate, to the iac passage, and then to the back of the throttle plate may be dirty,also the iac valve may be malfunctioning, be sure to properly diagnose the iac before replacing it as it is an expensive item. The way the circuit works for the a/c is as follows: You turn the a/c on, the TPS (throttle position sensor) tells the ECM that the throttle is closed, the A/C Cycling Switch tells the ECM that that there is increased pressure in the a/c system. The ECM sends a voltage signal to the IAC to operate and the idle increases,,as you drive the ECM receives a signal from the TPS, and the A/C Cycling Switch, and the ECM stops the signal to the IAC, since the car is not at idle and while the car is moving increased idle is not necessary.
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    I would agree that it may be the IAC valve. I had thought of that, but dismissed it.

    Since that part is expensive you may want to try using a air intake spray cleaner first to see if it helps.
    Disconnect the hose that comes from the air cleaner to the intake at the intake (engine) end, There is a plate in there ...look inside you will see it...spray in there with the cleaner.
    I did this once on a Toyota and it was a big help.

    I have never heard of laser plugs....did you mean irradium ?

    Just many miles on your Aerio ?
  • kaaihuekaaihue Posts: 1
    Ok, I got two unrelated problems with my SX. I love the car and I bought it used from a non-suzuki dealer. My father took care of alot of the dirty work getting the car and needless to say I am not gifted in the area of car maintenance. Recently my AC started acting up, it works but the fans don't work. I can only get cool air when the vehicle is in motion. Also, a passenger of mine slid out of the car and accidently popped out my passenger side Side Skirt piece. I tried popping it back it but it seems too stiff. I don't want to take it to a shop just so they can charge me for something I can do myself. If any one can help me with either of my problems I would greatly appreciate it!

  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    Check the fuse for the a/c blower motor.
  • I am going to look at a 2004 Aerio Wagon automatic, with 34,500 miles on it....any ideas or thoughts. I have had a Datsun and Nissan that were well maintained would last for 200,000+.....I have read good and bad on here.... looking for advice and back up ideas in general. I maintain my vehicles for I cannot be without a car nor broken down....only happen a couple of times in my life and want to keep it that way.

  • carthellcarthell Posts: 128
    My 2003 wagon seems to eat batteries every three years (but that's because I stop at a 7-11 almost every morning about 10 minutes away from my house; I help another commuter get to work). Closing on the the third-year mark, the car is hard to start after turning off the engine on short runs.

    If the drive is five miles and/or 15+ minutes in length, my generator charges the battery enough to maintain normal starting.
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39 your alternator belt tight ? the alternator output per specs.
    Hope this helps.
    A lot of auto supply stores will check the alternator output for free or you can buy a cheap tester for around $6.00
  • If you haven't checked your battery in 3 years, the most likely culprit is oxidation of the battery connections. Many times, just removing and cleaning the connections can restore full function. Of course, most less expensive batteries are not warranted beyond 36 months, and the guarantee is virtually worthless in the 3rd year anyway, so they don't worry much about failures in that 3rd year. Running with raised resistance in the system can also burn out both the battery and the alternator over time. I use those stupid little red and green pads under my battery terminals, and they seem to work.
  • carthellcarthell Posts: 128
    During my last oil change, I asked my local shop to check the battery; the shop replaced the battery posts and connections, which were corroded. It helped somewhat. I'll see about checking the other conditions later this week. Thank you!

  • carthellcarthell Posts: 128
    Looks like I read the wrong maintenance interval in my manual. My favorite maintenance shop looked at my ATF, and it was black. 89,32x miles on the clock. The shop recommended that I have a specialist change the fluid; they didn't want to touch it.

    I looked up the situations that could come with black ATF sloshing within my system, and things simply don't look that good even if I choose a professional flush. Fortunately, I am a zealous saver and can take the potential hit (it will be painful, regardless).

    The next time I get an offer for a fluid change at 30k or 60k, I won't hesitate taking it.
  • logmgrlogmgr Posts: 39
    The only way the fluid was "black" at 89 K would be if you overheated the vehicle engine or ran it low on trans fluid causing the trans to overheat ! !!!!!!!

    I have ran MANY cars up to 100 K before changing trans fluid....never had a problem.

    As far as them not wanting to touch it...that is just plain STUPID...I don't care who changes the fluid if it is truly "black"....the result will be the same.

    I bet you have burnt the transmission up...overheated the bands....thus "black" fluid.

    BTW: I now have an 06 with 392K on it...tranny fluid has only been chnaged is not black now...nor was it ever.
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