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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair



  • mazdaedmazdaed Posts: 7
    My 1 month old 6i Touring drifts slowly to the right at highway speeds (with no hands on steering wheel). Has anyone else noticed this problem with the '07's ? It looks like there was a TSB for this problem for the '06's.
  • birdbmwbirdbmw Posts: 4
    I had this problem on my Mazda 6 Diesel Sport pulling to the nearside.

    Took it into a Mazda dealer who told me it was OK.

    Total crap, I was a Police Vehicle examiner for twenty years.

    I took it to a company who had computer alignment equipment who set it up properly. A total different car afterwards, I sent the bill to Mazda who paid it.The delearship disgreed with the findings.
    Guess what they closed down a short time afterwards.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,375
    Doing a really good alignment takes a lot of patience, which most shops don't exercise....the old "good enough" syndrome.

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  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Posts: 149
    My 2003 Mazda6 is coming up on a break pad replacement and I wanted to see who here has upgraded to ceramic pads. The brake dust on the fronts has always been an issue, and I hear that ceramics will help cut the dust, and perform better. Would love to hear some experiences and a brand of pads that people prefer. Thanks.
  • My original factory battery will be four years old this coming Fall and I want to replace it. Any recommendations?
  • mitchinpamitchinpa Posts: 40

    I replaced the fronts with ceramic about 4 months ago. LOVE them. It cut the awful brake dust from the original pads down by 90% (at least). Only issue is the brakes squeak the first 2 or 3 times you use them. After they heat up a little, the squeak is gone.
  • Im buying an Mazda 6 s Grand touring in a few months, but I constantly read that there is a alignment issue or sometype of issue with the 18 inch wheels. Has this problem been resolved on the 2007 models, or are they previous model year issues? Also is this a good car to buy?(quality, reliability, ect.), or is it one I will have serveral trips to the dealership with?
  • mazda6iguymazda6iguy Posts: 365
    tell me if this is the bulb or mechanism.... Once in a while I go to turn on the headlights, and I only get the drivers side headlight. I go out and tap the lens of the passenger light and it comes on. This doesn't happen every time. most times I get both. Is this the bulb, or loose mechanism?

    Mazda6 i 2003 sedan
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    It could be either. A loose connection in the bulb itself, or in the harness attached to the headlight unit.
  • madmax1madmax1 Posts: 2
    :mad: :confuse:

    I own a 2004 6s, top of the line. 4 months ago I started to hear rattle noise coming from the back. Long story short, after going to the dealer 3 times, it turns out the entire rear panel where the subwoofer sits is loose/coming apart and had to be replaced.

    I guess it's not good craftsmanship. What a shame.
  • Was there ever an explanation discovered for this problem? I have encountered something similar, for the second time. Everything seemed fine, until one day, the battery was apparently completely dead. Turning the ignition key did nothing except light up a few dashboard lights and move the needles, then, after a while, not even that. No lights, no radio, no door locks, nothing. Thinking the factory battery had died, I replaced it, which solved the problem. Still, I took the car in to a local garage and had them check the alternator. Everything was fine with the electrical system, they said. Now, one month later, the same thing. I went out to the car and the electric door locks would not open. All I heard was a quite click. Again, turning the igition key just lit some dash lights and moved the needles. I've called my local Mazda dealer and explained the situation. They are acting like they've never heard of this problem happening to anyone else. I'm having the car towed in to their service department on Monday. Anything in particular I should tell them to check?
  • Went to rotate the tires on our 2005 6S today. I was unable to break the rear rims loose from the hubs. I was pounding on the back side of the rims with a rubber hammer, no movement at all. We bought this car used with 41,100 miles. It now has 45,000. It was supposedly maintained at the original dealership with oil changes and tire rotations. I do not believe they could have been rotating the tires if they are corroded onto the hubs. I managed to get the front ones loose, as I believe the front brakes pads have been replaced. This week I am going to the original dealership (not where I bought the car, but in the same city), and have them get the rear wheels loose. I am not going to pay them for this, as it is obvious to me they have not been rotating the tires as they say they have. With each of my cars, the first time I remove the wheels, I put anti-seize on the rim/hub interface and the lug nut threads.
  • krame00krame00 Posts: 21
    Well, I had a similar problem, excepting the issue with the door locks.

    We figured out on the board that the safety mechanism that prevents the car from being started when the clutch is not engaged (or if the car is not in neutral for automatics) was acting haywire. Now, whenever I turn the key, and the car will not start, I just have to disengage the clutch and engage it again, and the car will start. I have an '03 Mazda 6.

  • evaddaveevaddave Posts: 156
    We had something like this happen on our Jeep. Got back from a week-long vacation to find the battery dead (in the airport parking lot). Got a jump-start, luckily, and drove home. Took it in for service, but they found nothing. This happened again when the Jeep sat overnight and I had them tow the Jeep to the dealership.

    It turns out that the glove box latch was misaligned and allowed the glove box light to stay on even when the glove box door was shut.

    So have the dealership check the load on the battery to see if anything is draining the battery while it sits. You never know what they might find out... :)
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    I'm really late replying here, but in case you're still looking for brake pad experiences here's one...

    I just replaced all the pads on my '04 6s with Bendix ceramics. I've had good luck with Bendix in the past, I like their lifetime warranty, and while they are not always as easy to find on short notice as cheaper pads, at least one store usually has some on a shelf in my area. I wanted to try Hawk ceramics but didn't plan far enough in advance and nobody could get them to me for a reasonable price in less than 2 or 3 days.

    So far (after 2 weeks) they are working great. They don't bite quite as well until warmed up which is expected for ceramics. I'm seeing less dust on the wheels than I did with the stock pads, and it is lighter in color. The OEM pads also glued themselves to the rotors a bit (resulting in some pad transfer) when the car was parked and the wheels got wet, but the ceramics haven't done that to me yet so I'm hoping that situation has improved.
  • jbahjbah Posts: 23
    that whole assembly is VERY easy to take off. You might have fixed this by now, but you can take the whole console off in like three minutes. You have to just take out the screws in the ash tray, remove your shift nob, and unsnap (carefully) the top silver piece off and then the cup holder section snaps off. Just be gentle.
  • jbahjbah Posts: 23
    the oil is getting into your tranny and coming out,,,the main seal probably was installed poorly in the factory is my guess.
  • jbahjbah Posts: 23
    I had the same noise with my M6S at like 20k miles. I was shocked to know it was the starter too b/c it does sound like a belt, but it's apparently not so.
  • Hi, I have just started having this issue with my Mazda today. Can you please tell me what the problem was and more much it was to get fixed $$$

    Thank you
  • danboydanboy Posts: 1
    Did anyone had that problem fix and explanation? I just got the same starting problem last Thursday and had my 2004 mazda6 tow to the dealer. When I turn the key ON the safety light in the dashboard start to flicker very fast and then all the needles are going crazy but the car doesn't start at all, can't ear anything with the starter. The needles are still going crazy even after taking the key out of the ignition for about 5 sec. My electric lock are would not open also, just hear the clicking sound in the door but nothing happen.
    The dealer check the computer did not find anything. Like everyone who had the same problem, the dealer said the battery was dead (which in my case could be true, because in February my alternator when down and drain empty my battery. I had the battery recharge but I know I would have to replace at one point) change the battery and the problem was fix, no starting problem. But I told the dealer that will not fix the problem and it will come back. The dealer told me they can't do anything more for now they had to change the battery first anyway because she was dead and the problem is not there anymore so they can't see the starting problem. If the problem come back I will have to go again to the dealer... that sound like it will cost me lot of $$$ trying to find a problem that they don't have a clue!
  • acettacett Posts: 2
    I own a 2006 Mazda 6 Grand Touring V6 model with the 6 speed AT. This car has the 18" wheels as well.

    To date, I have close to 11,000 miles on the vehicle, which includes various driving conditions, and have not experienced the problem described in your email. Nor have I heard of the same problem with other owners (w/ 18" wheels).

    It has been over six months since you posted this problem so hopefully your problem has been resolved. There are few things as frustrating as having a new car with an apparent problem and not receiving the proper attention from the manufacturer.
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,868
    I have an 07 GT 5 door. No tire hop at all.
    There is a small amount of wobble felt during low speeds and during braking. It is minor and may be caused by imperfections in road surface, tires out of balance during intitial break-in, or rotors that are warped.
    I've experienced this increased perception of wobble on other vehicles when larger wheels and low profile tires have been added.
    If the wheels and tires are in balance and the rotors true there should be no issue. Difficult to know how severe your problem is without driving your car.
  • I just had my 45000 service last week. This is the 1st trouble I have had with it. Today the car would not start and the gauges went bananas even after I pulled the key from the ignition. I called for a jump and it started right away, but down the road, 4 miles or so, the car just stopped and the gauges started doing a crazy dance even after I pulled the key. Even the emergency blinkers would not work. I had it towed to the dealership, 8 miles away, and it was still doing the crazy song & dance.

    It's under warrenty, barely, but still there. Once I find out what the story is from the dealer, I will repost...
  • rdawgrdawg Posts: 15
    I can't figure out why the rear seat dome lights stopped coming on when the doors are opened and going off automatically. I know they did when i got the car, but I just realized they stopped. The switch is on 'door' like the front switch, and when you open the back or front doors only the front seat lights come on. The rear lights will work if you push the buttons to turn them on though. I has to be something easy I am just missing.
  • The same thing happened to me last night - wouldn't start, gauges going nuts, lights flashing. Looked like computer was fried or something.

    Turns out this is the "normal" failure that occurs when the battery goes dead. Dealer confirmed there was nothing abnormal. Had new battery installed, shop checked the charge and everything is fine. Kind of a relief to replace the battery vs. the CPU or something...
  • Is there any special reason I need to get the dealers "Mazda" brakes vs going to a brake shop down the street? I have a 2003 Mazda6. Dealer wants $377 to fix rear brakes and down the street charges $270. Anything special besides dealer wanting top dollar? Also is anything special about Mazda oil changes at the dealer vs any other oil change place? Are the average oil changing places ramped up on Mazda 6 (IE Cartridge system)?

    The only reason I go to my Mazda dealer is for oil changes, as I know this car has a goofy Cartridge/O ring system, and for the free Mazda 'inspection'. I just went over the 60k mile mark and they found that my transmission fluid needs flushed. Is there any reason I should go to the dealer for that, or would any place like Meineke be ok for that?
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,868
    My advice is to have minimum of oil changes and inspections performed at dealer during the warranty period. Your past that point. Maintaining goodwill and consistently obtaining service at the same place is a wise practice IMHO.
    Any competent mechanic can perform maintenance on the 6. No reason not to use an independent that is reputable.
    Cost for new Mazda rotors and pads is about $190 total fyi.
    If you don't like the cartridge oil change system there is a kit to change to a cannister for the Mazda6 2.3L. Showcase Mazda sells it and any Mazda dealer can obtain the parts.
  • If you don't like the cartridge oil change system there is a kit to change to a cannister for the Mazda6 2.3L. Showcase Mazda sells it and any Mazda dealer can obtain the parts.

    The question remains though, do you think the average oil change place is ramped up on the Mazda cartridge system, or is it still a good idea to do it at the dealer?
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,868
    It is not a difficult procedure to change the oil on the Mazda6, so yes, the average oil change shop can handle it fine.
    Using an element (cartridge) is not unique to Mazda. Some GM's use them, VW's use them,...etc.

    I still use a full service shop when not using the dealer unless I am buying tires.
    What is right for me may not be right for you.
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