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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair



  • samiam_68samiam_68 Posts: 775
    I don't know if it's common. You should have it checked out. Bearings are not that expensive to replace.
  • Yeah, I've got 6 years of warranty on the thing, so I'll bring it. I just hate to keep it at the dealer and drive some sentra. I love my Mazda. :-)
    Thanks for the info.
  • This is a WARNING to all of you who are thinking of buying a Mazda at Polar Chev/Mazda, in White Bear Lake, Mn.
    My wife and I have had nothing but problems with our 2004 Mazda 6 (loaded V6). It only has 11,600 miles on it and it is about to go out of warranty (4 yrs.) this July '08. Our biggest gripe, and there's many with this car, is the rear engine seal. It started to leak 6 months after we got it. They replaced it and soon after it started to leak again. Polar Mazda kept putting us off by saying, "we'll keep an eye on it and if it gets worse, bring it in before the warranty goes off." That's what we did and sure enough, like I expected, they won't replace the rear seal. Their excuse is, they're afraid Mazda won't cover the repair. Polar screwed up by not doing the repair right and it started leaking again. They are now saying the warranty doesn't cover it because it isn't dripping. The whole area is wet and it's only a matter of time b4 it starts dripping. It wasn't dripping the 1st. time they replaced it. I think they're also afraid of the lemon law. When I mentioned it to them, they became real defensive. I'm not through with them yet, I'm telling everybody I know about this dealership. They're not selling many cars now, so I think Mazda is cutting corners. I know I won't buy another car there. I bought a '03 Tribute there also, which has had many warranty problems. The Tribute is out of warranty and now the transfer case is leaking with only 43,000 miles on it. They both have the Ford V6 engine which was in the Taurus. I like the engine, I just don't like Ford's cheap gaskets. We gave our 1998 Honda Accord to our daughter when we bought the Mazda 6. I change her oil and the engine is still dry, no leaks anywhere with close to 90,000 miles on it. I could go on about the problems we've had with our two Mazda's, I don't have the time or room to tell them all. Oh yes, I have to tell you all about the 1st. "FREE" oil change Polar did. I always do my own oil changes, but as long as they gave the 1st. one free, I let them do it. When I got the car home it was dripping oil on my garage floor. I had to jack the car up and tighten the oil filter. They couldn't even do that right!
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    I'm sorry you've had such crappy service.

    I guess that's the difference between a great service dealer, and a poor one. I also have an 04' loaded 6s, and Delray Mazda in Florida has been a fantastic service center for me, this past 3 years. They've taken care of every fix, whether medium or small, in a timely fashion, and fixed correctly every time.
  • i have a used 2003 mazda6. it was running great for the first month (i changes the oil then). but after three weeks the engine was making a knocking/rattling noise. i checked to see what it was and the oil was low. after changing the oil again the problem seemed to just get worse and now i have no car. i still dont know what is wrong but everyone is guessing the oxygen sensor is bad or the engine is going to die soon. any ideas on what the heck is wrong with my car?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I'd try another dealer and also contact Mazda. With only 11,600 miles your problem should be taken care of by Mazda, even if it were a little beyond the 4 years, IMO.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    How low was the oil when you checked it? Did you top off the oil?
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    Just get a new PCV valve, ASAP.. a stuck PCV valve will suck up oil and burn it....
  • it was pretty low but after that i didnt drive it the next day i changed the oil an put about 4.5 to 5 quarts in it a new pcv valve does sound like a good idea
  • cas1957cas1957 Posts: 1
    Since purchasing my Mazda6 Sportwagon in March of 2006, I have had a very loud, annoying rattle when driver-side window is lowered 1". Dealer has tightened and adjusted loose regulator bolts, replaced window regulator, glass-run channel and applied weatherstripping, all to no avail. Now the dealer tells me this rattle is normal condition of vehicle. Has anyone experienced anything similar and what was your solution?
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    he has done nothing, but charged MAzda for warranty repair.

    Change the dealer or call Mazda HQ.
  • any idea where i can get good parts???
  • uffdaoleuffdaole Posts: 37
    Looking for pc valve on 3.0 mazda 6. Is it necessary to remove engine shroud? TNX
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,319
    The book doesn't say anything about removing the shroud, It's at the end of a long hose coming off the manifold but the diagram isn't very good. I can't quite make sense of it.

    They do say that when you remove the PCV valve you'll probably break the locking tab and won't be able to re-install it, so it might be best to check it in place.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    for sake of better clarity and avoiding scratching your hands, you will need to:
    1. take of the shroud
    2. take off the intake manifold.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,319
    arghh! They aren't making things easy these days are they?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    good thing is this is actually covered under extended warranty so I had the dealership also change the spark-plugs while they had everything open back there.
  • dmoore1234dmoore1234 Posts: 1
    Did you ever find an answer? I'm having the same problem and cannot find an answer anywhere. I have several leads, but nothing concrete. So far, the most promising appears to be the need to replace a PCV valve. Not sure what this is or why it would give the code. Second possibility is a O2 sensor. Again, not sure why.

    I have a corresponding noise in my car. At times, it almost sound like a diesel engine. It kinda rattles a bit. I've read a bad PCV valve may cause the engine to burn oil. Maybe I'm low on oil and that's causing the noise.

    Using a diagnostic code reader, it gives me two codes, both of which are P0340. The second one also shows what looks like a "pd". So it reads "P0340 pd". I can scroll down in the menu and several other items are indicated, but they are not codes. It says things like, "O2 SNSR", "Engr", and various others. Can any body help?
  • riswami1riswami1 Posts: 33
    07 4 cylindercalls for 5-20. Will running 0-20 Synthetic cause any warranty issues. I don't see how it could void the warranty?
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    I use Amsoil 0w20 synth in my 6, with no problems at all. Engine actually runs smoother with this thin oil.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I have no idea, but you would still have to follow Mazda's OCI schedule. I think they put almost everyone on schedule 2, which is 4 months or 5,000 miles. With this short interval, synthetic would seem to me to be of no added value over the standard semi-synthetic 5W-20 oil.
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    You can still follow Mazda OCI schedule with a syn. every 6 months or 7.5k mi. I'm out of warranty and doing a 1 yr.OCI with the Amsoil oil and filter. I think it will hold up fine for my mileage. ( 7-9k yr.)
  • andcalandcal Posts: 2
    I started hearing a knocking noise when reach 60m/h. In my case, it was the plastic tray under the engine that was loose and hitting on the ground.
  • Is there a specific type of antifreeze that a Mazda 6 '04' has to use?
  • I have a 2006 Mazda6 3.0 V6 with the 6-speed Aisin automatic transmission that is having major shifting issues at high speeds. When the car is traveling at more than 45 miles an hour in 4th to 6th gear and I want to accelerate, the transmission violently downshifts to 2nd or 3rd and bucks the car around until the transmission shifts into neutral (safe mode.) The dealer has called Mazda HQ and has been told to do a line pressure test on the transmission. A software update was done a few weeks ago which improved low-speed shifting but made the high-speed shifting issue a constant occurrence. The high-speed shifting problem seems to happen more often when the car is accelerating uphill.

    Has anyone experienced a similar problem? Hopefully they can fix it, everything else about the car has been great. :confuse:
  • Anybody know of a repair solution for the plastic piece/connector that's on the tranny end of the "shift control cable" (it goes from the shift lever to the transmission). I read somewhere recently that it's not uncommon for these to break..

    Just wondered if anyone has successfully repaired one of these, and how ya did it. . Salvage yards usually don't mess with these, but Mazzzzzzzzz wants $86 for the whole cable assembly.

    "Quality cable/rod, but CHEAP PLASTIC CONNECTOR!! Thanks alot, Mazda engineers.......... :cry:
  • hi i have a 2003 mazda -6 4cyl . i wont start whin you put the key in and try turn it on it wont start. and the dashlights fliker and the gages go crazy going up and down.

    1: i got a new batter
    2: changed the batter wire end's

    nether of thes thing worked can any one plzz help me with this .???
    i dont know how to work this website very well so my
    email adress is and my myspace link is

    well hope someone can help me
  • krame00krame00 Posts: 21
    Hi there!

    I also have an '03. Bought it new, and still love the car in spite of its little issues.

    Several others on this board with '03s have had this problem, and it is usually related to the mechanism that prevents the car from starting when the clutch is not engaged (automatic transmission - not in park).

    I have a clutch - so whenever the car does not start, I just turn off the key, take my foot off of the clutch, and push it in again (sometimes I have to do this a couple of times), and the car will start.

    Those with an automatic - they merely turned off the key, moved it from park to drive and back to park again, and then the car would start.

    Sadly, I spent a ton of money trying to figure out what the issue was at the Mazda dealership - including the new battery and diagnostics - only to find out that I did not need that stuff.

    I will send this to your e-mail as well in case you are not able to get back on the board.

    Good luck!

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