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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair



  • JuSEJuSE Posts: 5
    Sorry I dont have an answer for you problem but I own a '06 6i with low milage with the same issue too. If you get it fixed or have any further info please help.

  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    I'm not sure if this is a fix yet, but I unlatched the tilt lever for the first time in three years and flexed the wheel up/down and in/out several times. Have not felt the movement problem since. See if this works for you too.
  • JuSEJuSE Posts: 5
    Anybody with a 2006 6i have any issues with the engine light staying on and the car not being able to start immediately after filling the gas tank?
  • I had the exact same problem and eventually took it to the dealership. They kept insisting it was bad gas, but I knew it wasn't. After they looked at it they determined that it was the solenoid/purge valve. Replaced it under warranty and all is right with the world again.

    This seems to be a very common problem with 2006 6's.

    Edit: This little thread on some other mazda forums kind of explains it in more detail:
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I had a CEL on my 2007 during it's first year. It was also the purge valve. Never had starting problem, but I took it in a few days after the light first came on and it was taken care of right away..
  • Hi, Albatross1,

    I have a '05 Mazda 6. And I have similar problem as yours. In the morning, the gear shift is not smooth. But, after driving about 5 or 10 minutes, everything becomes fine. Did you get any information about it?

  • hi... if u ever missed oil in yo car.. its most probably made your timing jump few theeth.. first check your cmp sensor.. simply check whit a voltmeter if u have current when u crank the engine or check the resistance of the cmp sensor its should be between 400 and 550 ohms.. if everithing ok... u could be sure 100 percent your timing is off and the po340 code comes on... if u have some drivability probelms like slight hesitations... u will have to retime the timing chain...

    take about 2 hours.. for me.... :)..

    to see if the timing is correct. u have to take out the valve cover.. align the rear of the cams whit the head. horisontally and on the crank shaft pulley u have a hole u have to align that hole whit the hole on the timing chain cover.. if it doesnt aling the chain have jumped.. and u need to realign it.........

    i just hope for u that it is not too late.. cause if u hear noise.. that could mean one of your rods are bent....

    good luck
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    5 speed transmission on 2009 Mazda6 2.5 I4 has a sudden jerk into 4th gear when the car is cold. Started noticing this as temperatures in Canada dropped below Zero Celsius. Once the car is warmed up, the transmission shifts smoothly, but it is those first couple of shifts into 4th gear in the morning that are really bad.
    I have started using the manumatic transmission to keep the car in 3rd gear until it has warmed up slightly.
    Should I be worried, or is this a known "Feature" of this transmission
  • lg2207lg2207 Posts: 28
    Hi All-
    I have an -07 6S Wagon (6 cyl)
    Back in late November, I heard a loud tapping/ticking type noise coming from engine upon acceleration. Also a rattle upon accelerating at approx 35 mph between 4th and 5th gear had been happening the last two months. Later in week; all of the engine lights came on and stayed on. After re-starting the vehicle; just the CEL stayed on.

    Took it to the dealer. They said two problems were ocurring:
    1) DTC B1342 & U1900- they replaced the ABS module (under warranty)
    2) They verified the tapping/ticking noise and the rattle upon acceleration. They didnt indicate any codes- but did replace the cat/flex pipe.
    All of this under warranty.
    I still hear the tapping/ticking noise upon acceleration? It is louder at different times than others- most noticeably obviously at non- highway speeds. A mechanic friend of mine who owns an '06 6S also- says this is valve tapping; he uses synthetic oil with an additive every oil change to quiet it down Any thoughts? Is this still a Cat issue? Should I bring it back to the dealer (again)?
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    Just a guess... It's very hard to diagnose sounds on the forum. But I hope I'm wrong, because what your describing seems like the engine was under load while being starved for oil pressure for some reason, which eventually lead to the wear that caused valve tick and bearing noise. Synthetic oil and an additive may provide some temporary relief, but I don't think it sounds normal.

    I'm also wondering if this is a common concern that other 3.0 S-engined 6 owners have experienced.

    I'd bring it back to the dealer to check it again while it's still under warrantee. I wouldn't wait. Maybe even try a different dealer.
  • I just noticed a possible issue with my 2009 I4. It was about the same temperature, 30-32 degrees F. Being really light on the acceleration in city driving as I usually am, I have noticed mine shifts up to 5th gear by ~ 36-40 mph on flat pavement. If there is a hill, the transmission will usually hold in 4th gear.
    Mine seemed smooth on the transition to 4th gear though.

    However, today (and I tried it multiple times) it did not shift into 5th until about 52 mph. One time it did along this stretch of flat road but several other times it did not.

    It is possible as most cars have that an adaptive algorithm is holding it in 4th that long? Or could it be a sensor or linkage due to the cold not allowing the up-shift as it usually had so readily? :confuse:
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    Yes I believe this is the adaptive algorithm at work. The shift points are not always consistent and vary all the time. If you drive in rush hour it shifts differently than when you are accelerating normally on an open road. And it tries to adjust between the different scenarios although the adjustment is not always immediate. I really do not like this technology and would prefer a transmission with fixed shift points.
  • The low beam lense is dirty or cloudy. Can it be cleaned?
  • Thanks jkobty2, I sure hope that's what it is.

    I agree, I would prefer having a transmission without the adaptive feature. I would like to have switchable modes (economy, sport etc.). Heck, I am sure they could even throw in an variable control on the intensity of the modes.

    Now that I think about it, on that day I was pulling out of a parking lot onto a 6 lane road and had to stomp on the pedal going only about 15mph. It took about a 1/2 second for it to respond. Maybe that offset the algorithm.

    Does anyone know if there is anyway to reset the algorithm?
  • JuSEJuSE Posts: 5
    Hi again, anybody know why my 6's idling RPM ranges from 800-1800 and never runs at a consistant RMP?
  • lg2207lg2207 Posts: 28
    Thanks for your response. All Good News so far: I took back to the dealer in late January. The car spent three days there; the service manager said he didnt hear anything. When I went to pick it up; I drove it around the lot with the Manager; only heard it slightly; the tech who worked on it pulled up behind us and told us not to go crazy listening for it; he found a TSB (I am still waiting for the #) for people with similar problems; apparently; it is some valve (I'll get the details) that releases air/pressure that is right near or next to the firewall; with insufficient rubber on the gasket. They ordered the replacement part which is suppose to better insulate or control the noise coming from that valve or engine part. I'll let you know more details when it goes in next Monday for the warranty work.

  • I'm looking at a use '05 wagon and found this about he 3.0 V6 engine noise:

    Engine noise: A ticking noise from the 3.0L engine, often described as a lifter tick, requires the removal and reinstallation of the camshaft caps. (2003-05)

    Sound familiar?
  • jimosujimosu Posts: 1
    Hi Everyone,
    Hoping that someone here can help me out or relate to my experience. I have a 2009 Mazda6 S (only 1,000 miles on it) and anytime the engine is running there is a very loud Whining noise which seems to be coming from the rear passenger side (fuel pump?) but I may be wrong about location its hard to tell. The sound is pretty annoying and totally detracts from the nice purr of the V6. Anyone else notice this in their 6 or any they have test driven? Dealer told me it was "normal engine noise" surprise surpise. I took it to Browning Mazda where I leased it from.

    Thanks for your help!
    - Jim
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    There is a whining noise upon startup when the pump is priming. That lasts about 2 seconds. If it persists, there has to be something else.
  • Ok, I own an 04 6s (wagon) I have a 100k warranty from Mazda .and garage kept . I had the fuel pump replaced at 42,000 miles. Car would die when cornering, or hard exeleration.
    My new problem is a ticking noise on a cold start up, and a raw fuel smell. 55,000 miles now. I had the PCV replaced (not covered under warranty)... This clicking noise goes away about 60 seconds... Seems like it is on the passenger side by the wheel, under the hood. So the dealer could not verify the noise. I hope it is not LOW oil pressure. No codes or an oil light on. What do you all think?............
  • Is this about my "ticking" noise apon start up? or another persons problem?
  • YES I 2 have a ticking sound at idel cold start up on my 04 6s wagon. Then goes away. But it did constantly make this noise and had a raw fuel smell and a heavy smoke. I had the fuel pump replaced $800.00 warranty covered that. Also had the PCV replaced $350.00 not covered under warranty. Now it is only at cold start up, but the fuel smell seems to be comming back. after 4000 miles. hope this helps you.
  • akodmenakodmen Posts: 5
    Hi, Larry,
    did you get your ticking issue fixed and how's the result? I have a 06 wagon 3.0L V6, similar problem as what you describled, ticking sound goes obvious when car is under load but can be easily coverd by road noise, I had to pull my car on my drive way with some degree of slope there and slowly push my gas pad to make it obvious without road noise, and ticking frequency correlates with engine RPM. my car had 50k miles already, not sure if it will still be under warranty. if you get this issue fixed and won't mind to share the experience, that will be great! :)
  • lg2207lg2207 Posts: 28
    Yes, it took three tries and trips to the dealer. There is a TSB which I will look for- It has do with the brackets/rubber gasket and placement of the purge valve.

    There are thicker rubber mounts for the purge valve that help absorb the vibration/sounds that come from the purge valve- in my case- the tech needed to actually shift the position of the mounts and the purge valve to eliminate the noise.

    Send me your email and I will forward the TSB
  • akodmenakodmen Posts: 5
    larry, thank you for sharing your experience, I couldn't see your email on your profile, can you pls mail me to:

    By the way, how bad was your condition as of ticking sound, Mine sound more like very light 'da.. da..' and at first time I thought that was some type of radio noise and had to sit inside of cabine to hear it clearly (never tried to stand beside the engine since it's not noticable when engine is runing at idle) . had to push the gas pad to make it more frequent and more obvious around 1~2k RPM.

    Thanks a lot!
  • lg2207lg2207 Posts: 28
    It sounds like the same exact thing that I had. It was a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] for the dealer and me as it was slight and hard to pin down- but the tech did a good job finding the TSB and resolving it after two trips- does not affect performance or the engine. Just bad design! Will send the TSB via PDF.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    I have the 2009 mazda6 2.5 I4. I am noticing a tapping noise when accelerating from a stop at low rpm, as the car shifts, the noise is gone, so only appears at initial acceleration. It does not happen when idling. And I only hear it in the evening probably because of much less outside road noise at night compare to driving during the day.
    I tried reproducing when at idle, I can hear it if I rev up slightly to 1000 rpm. if I increase the rpm, the tapping sound is gone. Is this normal of this engine, or should I be worried and take it in for service? I did notice on my oil change receipt from the dealer that they are using bulk 5w30 oil. The manual recommends 5w20 oil. Could the
    thicker 5w30 oil be causing this issue?
  • racegirl4racegirl4 Posts: 1
    Well I'm blowing a lot of smoke on start up. I'm wondering if maybe it's a bad PCV valve? Also, I have a CD jammed or something. I put one in and now it's not working. It won't even switch CD's. Is there anyone out there that can help me out? Give me some info or something? I'd really appreciate it! :)
  • epicmetalepicmetal Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Mazda6 with the 2.3L motor. Assembling the motor installing the crankshaft and balancing shafts but know one knows the positioning of the
    crankshaft to the balancing shafts. And I mean no one, not the dealership the
    engine machine shop or the local repear shops. Hopefully here I can get the information that I'm looking for. If anyone can help let me know.
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