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Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair



  • krame00krame00 Posts: 21
    Hi there -

    This has happened to me and others on this board. My issue was with the safety mechanism that keeps the car from starting if the clutch is not engaged (or if the car is not in park for automatic transmissions).

    I too threw a lot of money at this before we finally figured out that if the car would not start I could just take my foot off of the clutch and re engage it and the car would start. Of course it was out of warranty (mine's an '03).

    Unfortunately, it sounds like your problem is a bit different in that the car actually cranks. But still - it sounds awfully familiar. Have you tried taking the key out, then shifting the gear shift?

    I realize that I am probably no real help, here - but thought I would put in my .02.
  • thanks for the reply. i've taken the key out .. put it back in .. turned it one notch which would allow me to move the gear... shifted it into neutral and back to park. it just seems that i have to sit and wait from the first time i try starting it for it to work.
  • It does sound like a fuel problem. When you turn the key to ON, not starting engine. Listen for a hummmm. turn key off then on hummmm. This tell you fuel pump is running. Still need to check for flow and pressure. Also replace the filter, and the fuel cap. Hope this helps
  • hi
    i would like to requst some one asist me on folowing qustions.
    am having madza6 model 2005, 117000km driven
    i can hear the sound like two parts touching in the morning when am starting the car after long parking.i wont hear same sound after drive some time.
    apart from there is little vibrating aswell not much but litle bit
    i went to consult some local 2 garage guys
    1 said , he needs to see the ac air compasure, and there might be in the engine mount sound,

    2 guy told me that i have to replace drive belt.

    am so confuse that whom to belive and not to.

    can any one sort out my issue please

  • jeffy scott, i am having the same problem with the gear shift locking up on hot days. i live in az so it is really frequent right now. in only happens when the car is parked for a few hours in the sun. sounds like the same problem you were having. i was wondering if you found a solution to this. thanks for a reply
  • i went and check with local garaga. took the macanic for ride and he said engine rubber mount to be chnage
    so very next day went and open engine mounts. all 3 are gone. all crcks.
    replaced and now absolutly fine and smooth drive
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Not me, perhaps it was artemis88 having this problem?
  • Can anyone tell me where to locate the OBDII connetor for my Mazda 6 2007. The CEL is on cause the last time i put gas on, i forgot to put the Gas-cup back on. Please help.


  • Check under the dash, underneath the steering column. You should find it there.
  • hey man I have a 06 Mazda 6 with the 6speed auto tranny and i have the same problem, have you found a solution to your shifting problem? I could really use some help!
  • They changed the transmission, apparently some pre-February 2006 cars had a manufacturing defect. There's a TSB for it.
  • it was me that had a problem with my car not starting on hot days. i've taken it to the dealership so many times and they still have not found a fix for it. pretty much, their repsonse is 'they can't replicate' so too bad.
  • amie1amie1 Posts: 1
    Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem...My engine light came on in my 2003 Mazda 6 (manual v6) just when I needed an inspection for plate renewal, of course. Took it to the dealer, where my car spent almost a month and about a thousand dollars, which would be no huge deal except the light was still on. They said they had no clue what was wrong.
    Next I took it to another place (not a dealer) where they informed me of a service bullatin out about the throddle body on my car being bad.
    Took my car to a different dealer where they informed me nothing about this problem even when I directly asked. My car was in and out of the shop for a week and a half (fixing many other "possible problems"), where it cost me a couple of thousands of dollars. Ultimately, they ended up replacing the throddle body in my car, problem fixed finally. Oh, I forgot to tell say that, somehow, the last time I brought my car home after the flipping light went off finally, I now had an anti-freeze leak and had to take it right back that same evening for another $600 dollar repair. I also failed to mention the cost for fixing all of the tickets for expired plates...
  • I was hauling some very long items in the back seat of my 09 Mazda6 and inadvertently punctured the driver's side rear door panel. Its a small tear but its noticeable as the door panel is black and the white material behind it is visible.

    Can this be repaired or will that panel have to be replaced? Does anyone know the cost to replace the panel and if this is something that I can do myself or if I will have to get it done by a professional? Its a small thing but I can't stand my new car looking banged up.
  • Okay, my check engine light came on after trying to accelerate. The car began to hessitate. I got a read out, and its the ignition coil that supposebly needs to be replaced, its cyclinder number 4. Im trying to do this myself. I had the same issue before, and replaced it at the front of the engine.

    I need to know which cylinder #4 would be? If it is located at the back of the engine, would this be difficult to do by myself? Taking off the intake manifold?

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • AH! I joined JUST to tell you the solution to this (I realize it's an old post)

    Under your car, right up near the radiator under the oil pan there's a thin piece of black plastic (aerodynamic something) with bolts that perpetually come lose and cause the piece of plastic to vibrate at speeds around 75-80.

    Hope this helps!!

  • Will these snow tires (P205/55/R16) winter tires from a Mazda 3 fit a 2009 Mazda 6 with 17 inch wheels. I understand this will impact speedometer accurracy but the affordibility is making them look attractive.
  • Can anyone recommend some tires for this car. I am considering the Michelin Primacy MXV4. I am just now replacing the OEM tires that are on this car. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • Will any winter driving be involved? What size wheel do you currently have? Is your driving style aggressive or more relaxed?

    Any more info would help, since there are literally hundreds of choices for this car.
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    I strongly recommend Nexen N2000 tires. I've had them for 30K mi so far, replaced the OEM Michelins from 2005. Dramatically better handling, and about 1/3 the cost if purchased on-line.
  • I have General Exclaim UHP''s. These are an excellent tire for the price. Stick like glue wet or dry. Summer tire, not for snow.
    I have Blizzaks on Mazda 3 Alloys for winter. Also a great tire. No need for an SUV or 4WD, just get a good set of winter tires. I can drive like it's summer
  • Anyone having A/C problems? I turned mine on for the first time and got sprayed with water. The center of the dashboard gets soaked with condensation. Dealership didn't have a clue.
  • during the nor'eastern flood here in norfolk, va, my 05 Mazda 6i was flooded to mid-bumper. During the flood, something happened electrically where it made the left turn signal stay on thus drained the battery. It wont start, took the battery to Advanced Auto they recharged it, reinstalled now electrically seemed fine, and when trying to start the engine won't roll over. So, after a couple hours later, battery still in, I noticed the rear signal light was back on, so i just unplugged the battery. any clues?? ps. i checked the air filter and its good.
  • bear26bear26 Posts: 12

    I just bought a 2010 Mazda 6 yesterday. Last night I discovered that the trunk was/is leaking where the jack is. Oddly enough, this EXACT same issue happened on my previous 2006 Altima. So I need to take it back to the dealer today for them to look at it. Needless to say I'm not very happy....we'll see what happens....
  • plai4plai4 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know if there is a way to manually close the moonroof. Mine was open on tilt. Pushed the button to close it and slid all the way open. It will not do anything now, but click. Please help!!!!! I froze on my way home from work.
  • kmcapkmcap Posts: 1
    I'm new here. I believe my switch assembly for low/high beams, directional, and wipers needs to be replaced. My entire left headlight unit is out and only the fog light and side yellow/orange light on the right side work. I thought I could bypass having to call my dad and checked all the fuses, but they are all fine. Being a mechanic himself my dad seems to think it's the switch assembly. Most likely he is correct....

    I have two questions:

    1. Has anyone else had this issue?

    2. Do you know where I can find a diagram that willl illustrate how to remove and replace the assembly? I found the assembly itself at auto parts warehouse.

    Also, please let me know if I should post this in another section.

    Thanks for your help!

  • Do you remember the code number they gave you?
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    I made a few more observations regarding the slight knock at idle that I am getting.
    The knock intensity varies from day to day. On humid and rainy days it is almost eliminated completely. The drier the weather the more pronounced it is.
    Also as you step on the gas it disappears, so to me this means it is not related to any real malfunction in the car such as bad bearings or valves or anything of the sort. I think it is basically a fuel combustion issue. It is what is called detonation, and I know that moisture (Water vapor) reduces detonation. The reason might be fuel injector related, spark plug related, or simply because the car is tuned by Mazda to run too lean at idle. This means not enough gas is being pumped into the engine at low rpm.
    Now I plan to replace the plugs, but is there also a way I can somehow increase the fuel delivery at idle, such as a fuel pressure regulator, or is it all controlled by the ECU these days?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,811
    You wouldn't get denotation at idle, though. That's strictly an engine-load related problem.

    Piston slap is a possibility, as this can be due strictly to the use of a short-skirted piston. Some new cars exhibit this. GM and Subaru products have had this "problem" (which is really harmless in this case). One gets better combustion on humid/wet days, so that would drive the piston a bit harder.

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  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    I am familiar with piston slap, that sound usually occurs when starting a cold engine and persists for about a minute or less, then as the pistons expand, the sound disappears.
    What I am experiencing is exactly the opposite. The engine is very smooth when cold, The sounds I am talking about do not start till the engine has warmed up completely. The engine stays smooth until it reaches the full operating temperature (temperature gauge in the middle). After the engine is fully warmed up, then it starts exhibiting the knock sound at idle, and a slight tapping sound on very light accelerating. Above 2000 rpm it runs just fine. That is why I am thinking it somewhat related to combustion. Since when the engine is cold, the computer pumps more gas into the cylinders, and hence no bad knocking. As the engine warms up and starts running leaner on gas, that is when the sounds start.
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