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2013 and Earlier - Mazda6 Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,181
    Look on Edmunds or or several other websites including the Mazda USA website. They should all list the available rebates and I checked just recently and it was as you stated, $1500 rebate if financed through their preferred lender and $1000 loyalty rebate for a current Mazda owner.

    Good luck finding a stripped down manual I4.
  • mikemartinmikemartin Posts: 205
    Look on Edmunds or or several other websites including the Mazda USA website. They should all list the available rebates and I checked just recently and it was as you stated, $1500 rebate if financed through their preferred lender and $1000 loyalty rebate for a current Mazda owner.

    Good luck finding a stripped down manual I4.

    Thanks for confirming. Two sets of eyes are better than one.

    The only issue I see is that there is some language that says one of the rebates can't be used with any other offer. Obviously, if that's the Loyalty rebate, that wouldn't make any sense, as it would negate the whole purpose of the rebate.

    I will contact some dealers on Monday and try to find a straight shooter salesperson.

    I do see some base manual i's around at a few dealers.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,181
    I think you'll find that those two rebates can be used together with no problem and it's a legit $2500 off if you fit the bill. Other offers are usually things like special financing and such.
  • mikemartinmikemartin Posts: 205
    Well, I see a $15,400 manual 6i in my future then, because I've located a car at a specific dealer.

    I will see whether I can close the deal with them tomorrow.

    If not, no big deal, I don't need a new car, which puts me in a great negotiating position.
  • jfritschjfritsch Posts: 958
    See lots of ads for Ford Fusion/Mercury Milan for the 15000-16000s. (approx 22000msrp) Pontiac G6 for 13-14000's. Chev Malibu for 15000-16000s (no lease rebate).

    15000's should be a useful target to shoot for the 22k msrp auto m6. Get 10 dealers in the mix via email last week or so of the month and see what you can hash out.

    Good luck
  • bama34bama34 Posts: 1
    getting quotes of invoice-20596- for MSRP 22020.Rebates are 2000 or 1000 w/2.9 financing, 1000 loyalty,500 Memorial Day and 500 Preferred Buyer card.
    $16596 + tax and title. Sound good?
  • pencho5pencho5 Posts: 5
    Very, very nice price! So far my best offer for the same car is $17,400 but it looks like they try to put more on the taxes then they should so I requested itemized taxes, fees, license. If I take the 0.0% / 36 months with $4,000 down they ask for about $442 a month. Where are you located? I'm in LA.
    I don't have the preferred buyer card. I logged in in at but it didn't gave it to me. I'll be calling tomorrow for it, but I suspect it will not be here before Monday. How did you get yours?
  • mikemartinmikemartin Posts: 205
    I can buy auto Sport AT for $16,188 plus TTL. Price includes documentation fee and all other B.S. fees.

    OTD is $17,159.

    Different dealership has manual Sport i SV for $15,400 plus TTL.

    This INCLUDES $1,000 loyalty rebate - I currently have an '05 Mazda.
  • pencho5pencho5 Posts: 5
    Mikemartin, where is that? Some how it looks too low to me. Will you be using the $500 coupon from mazda? If yes I doubt that the dealer will give you lower price unless you're paying cash or have good friend at the dealership. Here around LA I got only up to $17,200 price before tax and fees. Unfortunately I wasn't being able to get the preferred buyer card.
  • pencho5pencho5 Posts: 5
    Hopefully this will help somebody to get better price on the car he wants. I got my mazda6 i Sport and the price is as following: MSRP $22,120 ( includes $670 delivery and $100 CA emissions). My internet price was 19,800. On that price I get $2,500 discount ($1000 + 0,0% for 36 months current mazda6 discount, $1000 loyalty, $500 Mazda preferred buyer coupon- got it in the last minute). On top of that is about $1,800 tax + $330 registration + $60 docprep + $30 electronic filling. This is the best I could get in about a week of exchanging ~70 emails with the different dealers around here.
    I got some better offers with lower initial prices but when I did ask for the final monthly payment it turned out that the dealer had put more fees in taxes and this was easily visible since I was doing the 36/0.0% financing and the math was very simple
  • mikemartinmikemartin Posts: 205
    pencho, those prices were legit.

    And they included $2,500 rebates ($1000 loyalty and $1,500 Mazda Cash).

    The dealership is in Georgia and the salesman was very green and slipped up and told me that they've only sold 1/3 as many cars this month than they have last month, and that some senior salespeople were leaving saying they have never seen car sales so bad in their careers.

    I literally told the sales manager that's the most I would pay, after figuring out the tax and other fees, and they came down to that price.

    Car deals are easy if you don't absolutely need the car right then and there, and are fully prepared to walk away, and not just threaten it, if you can't get the deal you think is right and fair - if that means pouncing on an overstocked dealership in times of economic distress, all is fair is love and car sales, as car dealerships have NO problem marking up cars in high demand, in both bad times and good.

    What's good for the goose is good for the gander.
  • pencho5pencho5 Posts: 5
    Mikemartin, it looks like you're getting excellent offers! Here in LA I didn't get so good offers. Also this is my first car buy and I don't pretend to be very good at negotiating. I didn't need the car but after a week talking to dealers I was so exhausted from all the lies so I decided to buy, since I didn't want to distract my self any more with the buying of a car.
    Just to clarify something, on the mazda6 the offer is either $1500 cash back or $1000+special interest rates. You can get additional $500 with a preferred buyer card that mazda is giving to some of it's customers.
    Anyway, I'm very happy with the price and with the car - it's very nice and drives very well.
  • mikemartinmikemartin Posts: 205
    Penchi, you got a good deal, I do believe.

    Sometimes it's not easy to get the very best deal possible because the dealer may not be close enough by.

    What that salesman told me about car sales was the understatement of the year - I just read TTAC and it's amazing how much Toyota and Honda sales have dropped, and Porsche is literally near bankruptcy?
  • pencho5pencho5 Posts: 5
    I took a quick look at TTAC and read about Porsche but couldn't find anything about car sales. I also think that the car sales will drop more before they start rising again but I think also that the car manufactures already started producing much less cars then before.
  • ynotnechynotnech Posts: 6
    I just purchased a 09 Mazda 6 S touring + convenience package. The negotiated sales price that we agreed to was $24,500, plus they also offered to pay us $800 dollars to pay off our last few payments of our current car after the deal was funded.

    The question that I have is that knowing that there is a $1500 customer cash rebate, in which I wanted to use as a down payment... shouldn't the rebate go towards the 24,500 negotiated price? so that we would only owe $23,000?

    What they ended up doing was putting the $1500 over our negotiated price.. so our price on the contract was $26,000. Is that resonable? To me it seem like they stole our cash rebate and then made us pay the taxes on it.

    You have to keep in mind that the Dealer also has their own $2000 manufacturer to dealer incentives as well.

    I thought that wasn't fair.. but of course that was after the fact that I signed the contract without reading all the number carefully.

    What do you guys think? Fair? can I still do anything about it?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I think it is normal for the dealer to include the rebate in negotiated price, with the buyer signing the rebate over. I don't know if it is normal for the customer to not be aware that this is what is being done.

    I assume you signed the rebate over to the dealer at some point, but have you taken delivery of the car yet? If not, I don't know what the consequences might be for backing out of the deal.
  • ynotnechynotnech Posts: 6
    Thanks for your input. I guess it's my own fault for not really looking at all the numbers before i signed. I did take delivery of the car... so I really don't have any type of leverage. I did not know that they used the rebate to get to my final sales price. I assumed I still have it to use after the negotiated price.. Anyways, I talked to the sales manager and they said there is nothing left for them to do.

    I did take GAP insurance from them since I do now owe more than the car is worth, but i found that my own insurance company charges 3X less for the same coverage.. so I guess I will save money there.
  • loukinglouking Posts: 28
    Was offered price of $23,000 OTD for a '09 Mazda6 i Grand Touring w/ moonroof. (this is the 4 cyl.)

    Price included doc fee but not taxes.

    Should I grab it ? ? ?
  • ambrosiaambrosia Posts: 11
    The price is not bad. I'd just make sure you are getting all applicable rebates. I don't like that they quoted you an "out the door" price that isn't truly out the door since it doesn't include taxes. As long as you factor in the additional $1,500 or so for taxes into the equation for your monthly payment then I guess there is no harm done.
  • ynotnechynotnech Posts: 6
    So did I get a good deal? I bought an 09 Mazda 6 S Touring + Convenience package (V6 Automatic). After all the rebates etc.. the price of the car was $23,714. After all the taxes, doc, etc etc... the price ended to be about $26,100.

    What do you guys think?
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,181
    True the dealer should have at least mentioned that they were using the rebate as part of the down payment so to speak. I've bought cars with rebates involved and that's exactly how it was done. However, when they went over the sales contract line by line they explained it.

    You do have a choice to actually receive the rebate but I believe that 99.9% of car deals involving rebates are done just as your was. Also, in most states, by law they have to include the rebate in the price of the car for tax purposes. It's just like a rebate that you mail in, you had to pay sales tax on the full price of the product before you get your rebate back in the mail.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,181
    You did ok.....not great. Basically you got the car for a little over invoice minus the $1500 rebate. In todays market I think you could have gotten another $500 or so but that also depends a little on what area of the country you live. People post on these forums all the time and never mention what area of the country they are in. Some areas are just more competitive than others.

    Also you paid $2386 in ttl etc which seems high. Unless you sales tax is more than 8.5% you probably paid a hefty doc fee as well. In that case you definitely should have gotten the extra $500 off IMO.
  • ynotnechynotnech Posts: 6
    Thanks m6user for your input as well. But i am confused.. According to Edmunds new car estimate, the average that people are paying for my exact car is reported to be around $25,376, in which case I am not worried that I got ripped off for paying about $23,700.

    However when I looked up what people are paying for my car on, it reported that you the average sales price for my car was around $21,900 or so.
    It also said that a good price for the this car was about $3,500 below invoice.. Is this possible? If thats the case then I feel really bad about my deal.

    Whats your opinion and anyone else who reads this.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,181
    Well just about everyone beats the Edmund TMV price for one thing but I find it hard to believe that $21900 is the average paid for this car. That would mean that a lot of the sales are substantially below that price which IMO is ridiculous. With another $500 and a Mazda owners $1000 rebate you may have gotten it for around $22000 which would be a very good deal. You never mentioned the actual breakdown of your transaction and that would help immensely as you didn't even mention if it was auto or manual tranny or if you had any other options on it other than the convenience pkg. Can you provide that info and the numbers such as:
    Sale price of car:
    Title charge:
    Doc Fee:
    Other dealer chgs:
    Sales Tax:

    You may be able to buy a Chrysler product at $3500 under invoice but I don't believe the Mazda6 is in that category.......yet!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    It also said that a good price for the this car was about $3,500 below invoice.. Is this possible?

    I believe you had said there was $1500 in rebates and $2000 in dealer cash, if that is correct, then that is how $3500 below invoice would be possible.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,181
    I forgot about the dealer cash that was mentioned but I have not heard of this from any other source. I went to the site and they have different rebate amounts for the I-4 auto vs. I-4 manual which I don't believe is the case. I believe the rebate is $1500 across the Mazda6 line but I could be wrong. I haven't seen anyone getting a price that low on a Mazda6 and the site doesn't even reflect that low of number when you put in either a I-4 touring w/conv. pkg auto or manual.
  • ynotnechynotnech Posts: 6
    Ok so this is for a 2009 Mazda 6 S Touring + Convenience package (Automatic).

    My breakdown numbers were as follows. (They sales price was 24,514 with an additional 800 Cash back after deal was funded)

    Vehicle Cash Price 26014.00
    Sales Tax + 2315.25
    Doc Fee + 50.00
    Total = 28379.25

    Rebate - 1500.00
    = 26879.25

    Lic + Reg. + 89.00
    Total = 26968.25

    Dealer agreed to give us an additional $800 cash back after deal was funded.

    So Car with TTL = $26,168.25

    So now what do you think?
  • ynotnechynotnech Posts: 6
    I actually asked the dealer about that, he said that if we took the $1500 rebate + the 5 year 2.9% financing rate, then the dealer does not get the 2000 dealer cash from the manufacturer.

    I am not sure if this is true, but that is what he said. He told me after holdback etc etc.. he only made about $200 profit from my sales.. believable?

  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    I believe you had said there was $1500 in rebates and $2000 in dealer cash, if that is correct, then that is how $3500 below invoice would be possible.

    There is not a total of $3,500 in incentives to be had. I can assure you. If you opt for the special financing + $1,000 APR rebate, you cannot get the $1,500 and neither can the dealer.

    If you opt for the $1,500 dealer engagement on sv, sport and touring models ($2,000 on GT models), you cannot get the special financing.

    $1,000 Owner Loyalty if you have a Mazda (cannot combine with $500 Preferred buyers card)

    The max cash incentive you can get is $3,000

    There is no additional $2,000 to the dealer, as much as I wish there was.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,181
    So basically it's as you said, you ended up paying $23714 for a Mazda6 I-4 Touring w/conv. pkg. That is not a bad deal but as I said it does matter what area of the country you live. Mazda6 can be had somewhat cheaper in major midwest cities vs the NE. So a good deal in the NE would not be that great of a deal in Chicago. A lot of it has to do with the number of Mazda dealers in close proximity.

    Anyway, you've bought the car, took delivery and there is nothing you can do now but either cry in your beer thinking that you may have gotten maybe another $500 off or move on and enjoy your new wheels. I would choose enjoying my new ride.
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