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2013 and Earlier - Toyota 4Runner Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • Toyota dealers in NC add $925 to the Edmunds invoice for a "Southeast Toyota fee" they say is part of the invoice, and a $599 doc fee for a grand total of $1524 markup to Edmunds invoice. Has anyone else purchased a Toyota in the southeast and is this negotiable, particularly the $925? I believe that everything is negotiable but has anyone had any success at reducing / eliminating these fees? I know the doc fee is pretty much BS dealer profit padding but I don't know how legit the Southeast fee is. Thanks in advance.
  • I'm a Florida resident and snowbird, go to New England for the summer. I always buy my new cars in Massachusetts while I'm here, just because of the high doc fee's in Florida and Southeast dealer fee's.
  • tangmantangman Posts: 127
    Has anyone in washington or oregon state been able to get a price near invoice for the new limited 4runner? If so, can you share where.
  • Really i don t know why people paying to much for it.

    Dealer cost for a 2010 4Runner:

    4Runner 4WD V6 SR5 : $28.740
    4Runner 4WD V6 Trail : $33.060
    4Runner 4WD V6 Limited: $36.761

    + Toyota intensives :
    Factory rebates from $750 to $1000
    Financing 0 % ( your sales person wont tell you that. they will try to give you 3.9 to 10 % apr to make more profit in his sale)

    Please be aware and negotiate
  • tangmantangman Posts: 127
    Where can you get information on 4-Runner factory rebates? I can not find anything for rebates on 4-runners in washington state.

    Also, I posted for referrals to dealers in Washington state that sell below invoice in this forum and had no response.

    Would love these references.

  • Ask your sales person to check the Black book.

    Check the incentive section. In general, the only deals for 4-runners right now as it is a new model are low interest loans and possible free maintenance for 24 months.
  • Any good deal in Los Angeles, For a New 4Runner 4WD V6 SR5 .


  • tangmantangman Posts: 127
    It appears the availability of new 4-runners is being controlled to keep prices high. Even the TMV price is way above invoice. And I posted for folks to share on their really good deals in the west, but there were no takers. Since the government bailout tax incentive, the dealers probably made massive profits and thus have no need to reduce prices at this time.

    Are there any good 4-runner deals anywhere in the west coast? Or is there a lack of interest in new 4-runners?
  • diesel_powerdiesel_power Posts: 16
    edited September 2010
    something really happening...... looks like no one is buying 4Runner anymore.

    That its GOOD NEWS,
    let the dealers keep them for while in stock .
    " dust and sunburn make them more off road SUV and cheaper :shades: "
  • What exactly do you mean that availability is being controlled to keep prices high?

    Again, what is meant by the gov't bailout comment??

    As for good deals, At several L.A. dealers, I was offered $1,000 below invoice for a '10 4R.
  • Do you have recent sales numbers that lead to that statement?
  • diesel_powerdiesel_power Posts: 16
    edited September 2010
    Here we go....its not question of sales numbers...

    its question of number of phone calls i received this past 2 weeks. looks like 4runners its not selling well.

    My friends its Game between us ( 4runner fans) and Dealers ( sales People )

    lets go back to the game.
  • diesel_powerdiesel_power Posts: 16
    edited September 2010
    yes i really agree with you ( new 4-runners is being controlled to keep prices high)

    I am going to wait,........
    I am not paying $2000 over invoice....

    Just Remember we are in charge .

    they need our money, more than we need their car.
  • tangmantangman Posts: 127
    I posted about good prices in the northwest. Not one response. Also, look at the number of people on this board, very few. I contacted many dealers in the Northwest and none are even close to envoice. And when they are with $1.5K, they add on alot of fees. Also, look at TMV relative in envoice. You are right. Customers have the power with their pocket book.
  • I am in SoCal, pricing are almost the same looks like dealers made plan to keep pricing high to make maximum profit.

    BUT i have great news. one of them will break the rules and offer you better deal just wait and you will see.

    "Sales person told me that"
  • """"""""""""""""As for good deals, At several L.A. dealers, I was offered $1,000 below invoice for a '10 4R.""""""""""""""""""""""

    can you be more specific please:

    2010 4runner version : SR5 , Trail or Limited
    V6 4x4 or V6 2WD
    Pricing offered
  • tangmantangman Posts: 127
    Best price I can find is $39,500 on a $42K rig. I have a high milage 4-runner trade so that further complicates the picture since there is a big diffeence between Kelly Blue Book, Edmunds, Blackbook, and NADA. Again, if anyone knows of good deals in the Pacific Northwest, let me know.
  • Not sure how to be more specific regarding pricing. $1,000 under invoice without any BS fees like TDA, $500 for docs, etc. I was inquiring on a Limited model.
  • You have to do the legwork yourself, start calling every dealer asking for $500 under invoice saying you will buy the same day. Pretty simple, actually. Also, don't buy anything in the finance office. If you want extended warranty or gap insurance buy it for 70% off away from the the dealership. Good luck.
  • jb_turnerjb_turner Posts: 702
    Its not a good idea to ask for a certain amount below invoice.... let the Dealer make the first offer. Over or Under invoice does not mean anything... what matters is the OTD price because we all pay it.
  • Actually, it is a good idea. He should ask for below $500 invoice. He sets pricing expectation by asking for it.

    With regards to OTD, OTD means nothing. Taxes and fees vary from state to state, even within a state, and getting quotes with invoice as the control allows you to easily compare quotes. Plus dealers do not like to give OTD pricing so he will have a more difficult time price shopping when asking the dealer to do the math on OTD.

    Pleas stop giving poor advice. I have purchased 12 vehicles for friends and family the past couple of years. I know the process.
  • tangmantangman Posts: 127
    I have not found one dealer in the Pacific Northwest willing to sell at invoice. Furthermore, the invoice can vary by dealer and region. The only fixed reference is MSRP which is consistent across most of the US. So I measure all offers relative to MSRP and out the door where I live. After all, that is the price a buyer will pay. Who cares wether it is TDA, invoice, car payment, sales tax, or whatever, the bottom line is what comes out of your pocket to own the vehicle. Dealers just love to confuse buyers and it is pretty simple to compare what you actual have to pay. If you are financing, I would also include the total finance charge. Again, that comes our of your pocket.
  • jb_turnerjb_turner Posts: 702
    edited October 2010
    "With regards to OTD, OTD means nothing. Taxes and fees vary from state to state, even within a state, and getting quotes with invoice as the control allows you to easily compare quotes. Plus dealers do not like to give OTD pricing so he will have a more difficult time price shopping when asking the dealer to do the math on OTD."

    We all pay an OTD price....If you were to purchase a car would you be concerned how much taxes are for this car in antother state?

    "Pleas stop giving poor advice. I have purchased 12 vehicles for friends and family the past couple of years. I know the process."

    Its not poor advise it just facts...We all pay an OTD price even you have!...DUH!!!!!
  • tangmantangman Posts: 127
    If dealers don't like to give an OTD, they have something to hide. If you must finance, also add the finance charges. Per the previous post, all that matters is what you have to pay for the vehicle. So, once you are rock sold on the fact that the dealer is quoting the exact same vehicle you want (MSRP reference works good for this), OTD is all that matters. Be very careful on bate and switch. I just had direct experience where a dealer quoted a price, and when I came in to buy it. Oh no it does have NAV, that is extra. If you are a price sensitive shopper, this really matters. If not, just buy it.
  • g35halog35halo Posts: 9
    edited October 2010
    - Asking for OTD is an amateur move. Dealers will seize the opportunity to roll you over.

    - Considering MSRP is the worst possible way to negotiate. Talking MSRP is beyond amateur, it has "I'm a sucker" written all over it. Negotiations baseline is invoice!

    - Before going to dealer make sure you know their fees that are added to invoice. The only legit fee is a "doc fee" and should range from $50-$100 max in the PacNW. "Destination" (about $800) is included in invoice. Not sure if your state has a nominal "tire fee" or other mandated fee but it is your responsibility to find out if they are legit.

    - Have them email you an invoice that describes the vehicle, its options and its accessories.

    - TDA, Holdback, Added Dealer Markup and other fees are BS!

    - Once the parameters for sale are set, visit dealer. If you ask for OTD, you are asking to get taken advantage of.

    - Additional accessories like Crossbars, Chrome Exhaust Tip, Cargo Cover, Mats, etc are legit, just make sure you get those at invoice prices as well. Don't pay for Rustproof, Paint Protection, etc.

    - In summary, ask for under invoice. If you can't get under invoice in your area after calling every dealer's internet dept, then you have to pay what they are quoting. Life goes on. I'm lucky, in SoCal we get great pricing. At least you are not in SE of US, because they get hammered with $800 doc fee, $500 TDA, forced options, etc. on top of way above invoice pricing and have no choice in the matter.

    - If you have great credit, walk into a couple major banks and ask for a car loan before visiting dealer.

    - When you get to dealer, the internet sales guy might try to sell you on window etching or rustproofing, just politely decline. Then the finance person will try to sell you on gap insurance, extended warranty, etc, again, politely decline. Look over the paperwork before signing to make sure every pricing line item matches your expectation. Sign papers, inspect vehicle for dings before accepting delivery and drive off knowing you received the best deal you can get in your area.

    - Handle any way you like but my way is the right way. Yes, I am being blunt but I hope others reading this will heed my proven advice instead of getting confused by amateur buyer musings. Good luck.
  • jb_turnerjb_turner Posts: 702
    edited October 2010
    If you shop over or under invoice you are asking for problems. Everyone pays an OTD price that is what matters.
    Shop OTD price we all pay it.
  • tangmantangman Posts: 127
    OTD is what it really costs you.

    An example where invoice fails, is that if you buy in another state where the invoice may be different and the sales tax may be different. So for example you might buy the vehicle that is more expensive relative to invoice, but pay substantially less sales tax. I recommend MSRP just to make sure you are getting offers on the exact same vehicle. Another factor is the trade in vehicle, where one dealers may offer you substantially more than the lower cash price vehicle. Again, OTD is what really matters
  • fxoffroadfxoffroad Posts: 67
    edited October 2010
    I agree with g35halo 100%…

    Out the Door prices really don't mean jack unless your define OTD before (someone elses') local/state sales tax and other fees that have no bearing on your vehicle. OTD is bogus and just another way to be fooled about pricing.

    Edmunds provides pricing information including the destination charge. Edmunds (and others) don't provide OTD numbers because… well if you can't figure it out, then OTD prices are for you.

    jb_turner & tangman: you two are a salesman's dream - cuz you've got "sucker" written all over your forehead.
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