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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    If you look back in time, few people addressed the EGR Flow Control Valve as the possible "cause of shudder". This hesitation seems to occur when you have no load on the engine, when the flap opens and closes cyclically. I doubt you will feel the shudder going uphill.

    Over here the technicians turn the AC off when they test drive the CRD, and they gently let the truck accelerate beyond 60 mph. When the AC clutch opens and closes at low RPM, this could be interpretated as shuddering. Never forget the Powertrain Control Module constantly opens and closes the OD clutch according to the position of the flap.

    Since I don't have this flap, I only know that the OD is locked when the RPM stay low while accelerating. In 4th gear it locks around 40 mph (~1600 rpm) and will only open if I press the pedal 1/2 way down. It behaves like a manual. The counterpart is driving uphill at 40 mph with a locked 4th gear. I have to use the OD button to force down shifting otherwise I have to accelerate hard all the time.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Steve05....When they replace the EGR valve the tech have to take the fuel filter assembly out for them to have space to work in there, ounce the assembly is out you have to bleed the filter but probably they don't and that's why you have the shudder. Bleed the filter and it will go away.

    Nescosmo.
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Posts: 59
    I have to concur with bleeding the filter. I had mine changed and it wasn't bled properly. It shuddered. I brought it back, they bled it and it has run fine. I only had the shudder that one time.

    I have 31000 miles on mine.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Winter2: We have had our doubts about the tec's at the place of service. However, the dealership was willing to keep trying but DCX said this was not up to their standards as well. I still don't know where the CRD ended up. it was either St Louis or Kansas City. Both have a large dealer auctions. DCX was going to see if they could at least work some problems out before taking it to the auction.
    I don't know how they could fix the speed control, or the constant jerking. I do know that they did say they were going to change the oil & filter, water/fuel filter, & the transfer case and the axle fluids, and new brake pads on all four wheels. As for the fuel gauge, I have no idea what they thought.
    I was told DCX had spent a lot in the 25 times it went into repair. I do say the F-37 really was a huge mistake, it never ran with much pep and get up and go after that.
    We did like the ability to tow, and we did tow about five times, before the F-37 and it did a good job. This CRD gave problems right off the bat. I am sure that if the problems would have been worked out we would still own it.
    As for the Compass, it's a tough little SUV. The 2.4 cyc has some good get up and go, but only can tow 2,000 lbs. We think we may look into a pop up camper, if we can get the weight factor into the right category.
    DCX did do a very good job of making it right with us. I sure was stunned that they only charged us $ .05 cents a mile for it's use. That could not have been fair er. On our max-care Chrysler Service Contract, it was transferred to the Compass. They started the service Contract just as if it was a new Service Contract. We had the no interest Service Contract, and we owe less than $800.00 so that worked out very well too. So we came out financially better as well. We had 31,000+ on it when we got the replacement Compass.
    I never got up set, or had anything negative to say about the dealer, and praised the help when ever I could, and I believe that the fact we have bought 13 new Chrysler vehicles in the last 12 years just might have had some weight as well. So we are pleased and so ends the tale of our Green CRD.
    I am glad you are having good service from your CRD, I don't think they are a bad vehicle. When humans are involved there will always be something that will not be up to standards once and a while.

    farout
  • hogwild1961hogwild1961 Posts: 26
    I oedered a stage 2 diesel module from ebay by SPdiesel I called them direct they were asking 499 for it and he dropped the price to 425 us dollars... What a diffference it has made very peepy and what a difference it has made pulling my TT..and no more egr shutter yea!!!..the module has a fuel economy feature plus 10 levels of power..so far I am very happy and it was a breeze to install..Thanks
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Farout..... Enjoy your Compass as we enjoy our CRD. You know will always have something to say about our CRD, trying to do things to it -Just because is a diesel-. Now they have the -ORM- (off road modification) witch is taking off the maf sensor off, you know is a CRD thing.

    Nescosmo.
  • bravo6bravo6 Posts: 2
    I purchased a CRD 18 months ago. 2006 off the dealership lot for $23,600. I am concerned with all of the recalls. However, I love it. I only have 7400 miles on it and average 25 mpg. I have not put it 4x4 yet. The only problem that I have had has to do with the brakes. After it sits all night and it is cool (below 45), the rear brakes seam to "rub" and makes a loud sound until you reach 15 miles per hour. At that time you hear a "ping" and all is normal. Trying to get it to do that at the dealership is hard. Any one else ever heard of the said problem?
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    How would removing the MAF make it run any better?
    I have disabled the EGR and mine runs better than it ever has.
  • redlemonredlemon Posts: 4
    I love my crd but nobody can seem to fix the shudder around 55-60mph. I’ll be keeping track of the paperwork. :lemon:
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    My understanding is that the EGR valve stays closed and the system defaults to stored settings and remaining sensors. The EGR valve remaining closed is verified by much lower AIT (air inlet temperature) typically only 20F warmer than outside temp rather than 100F warmer.

    This turns on the engine light but does not seem to matter to the engine other than running a little better. I think it would be good to have a discussion about whether this is a good idea, or not. Since it is illegal it is referred to as the ORM (off road modification) with a wink.
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    What I did was connect a relay in place of the EGR.
    This turns on a resistor that tells the PCM the EGR is there.
    I have found that off the line performance is enhanced as the EGR is programmed to stay open for ~3 seconds off the line and the CRD is quite doggy.
    This also keeps the MIL light off.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Rubbing sound from the rear brakes has something to do with the make up of the brake pad material. I have 20K miles on my 2005 CRD and still have this issue on occasion. I could could have had the dealer replace the pads and resurface the rear discs but brakes work fine so I have left them alone.

    Pinging noise from engine could imply garbage fuel (low cetane). Try a different brand of fuel or add some cetane improver to see if the pinging goes away. Have you tried B5? That definitely kills any pinging!!!
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    cerberous likely to by crysler probably tomorrow
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I confirm from EU local news, DC now spells: capital D alone!
    (understand this as you please :sick: )

    Daimler wants to push their little Smart coffin in the heavy traffic to recuperate a projected return over investment. This is a pertinent illustration of finance wanting to rule technology. When I get too close to Smart cars on the road, I tend to let them pass because the occupants are exposed.
    Jeep is considered as expensive as a MB over here. At least DC helped local governments collect more value added tax money and made the way clear for asian builders. Anyone interrested in buying a SUV with a 1.2 liter engine :confuse:
  • We have a 2005 CRD that now has nearly 30,000 miles on it. When newer, it would often make a moaning sound when first driven in the morning. When backed up, it sometimes made a terrible banging sound -- don't know how else to describe the sound. It was like someone was behind the Jeep smacking it with a bat over and over.

    Two dealers had it overnight and said they couldn't hear anything unusual. Hmmm. They did tell me that the e-brake is known to rub and cause noise, and that "Chrysler is working on it." Apparently, not too hard. At any rate, the moaning and banging is pretty much gone by now, so our neighbors don't fall down laughing when we back out of the driveway.

    That's really my only gripe. We get 30-33 mpg cruising at about 70mph, usually on B99 biodiesel. Surprisingly, it's hard to tell the different in performance or mileage when switching between BioD and dino.

    I've read some comments from people who say they'll never use BioD. Why? I can see not using home-brew, but what I buy is produced by legitimate companies certified to meet ASTM standards. I'd rather use a biodegradable, clean-burning fuel made from US-grown biomass than dino from foreign countries.
  • semperfi06semperfi06 Posts: 20
    mdamick,
    I believe you have mentioned it before, but can you describe how you connect a relay in place of the EGR and what parts are needed?
    Thanks, SemperFi06
  • boilermaker2boilermaker2 Posts: 131
    Whether justified or not, there is a concern by manufacturers and many retail vendors of fuel that anything higher than B20 (B5 or B10 for some) is bad news. This is especially true for older vehicles. BioD acts as a cleaner (emulsifier) which has led to plugged filters and stalled vehicles which is bad business for the retailer.

    On newer vehicles with the higher pressuer, atomizer, fuel rails like the CRD, there is a fear of the injectors being gummed up.

    Though the ASTM guidelines are strict. Some in the business believe that they are not stringent enough.

    B100 has a shorter shelf/storage life but this affects mostly on-farm, long-term storage customer with 6+ mos or greater storage capacity. Not sure if B99 is much different.

    Don't kill the messenger!
    Boiler
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    Disconnect the EGR and connect a relay coil to the plug.
    Connect a 5K potentiometer through the normally open contacts and across the IAT sensor-the back 2 connections on the IAT/Boost Pressure sensor.
    Adjust the pot so when the EGR is on the IAT reads about 195F.

    When the PCM does not want EGR it reads ambient, and when the EGR is on it reads the higher temperature and it stays happy.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    lyfordolypen: I doubt you will really care too much, but I will warn you anyway. V M Motori and DCX for 2005 in the owners manual did NOT even say Bio fuel was an option, even though it came with B-5 in it from the factory! In 2006 DCX said ok to B-5.
    However V M Motori and every part maker related to the engine has said the use of over B-5 voids the warranty, as far as they are concerned. Personally B-10 seens to be ok, but B-99 is asking for big time problems. The turbo is about a $3,000. item and the wax build up in injectors, and outer parts is a huge risk, even with an extended warranty.
    Our CRD was replaced by DCX a month ago, we had it in the shop 25 times. When we drove it in to get our reeplacement Jeep Compass we choose, the dealer put a seal on the fuel tank, and put a big red sign on it not to move it, DCX picked it up. We were told they tested many parts to see if they could find a fix before going to the auction. The fact we did not use Bio fuel except once when we were low on fuel we used B-20. The Service manager told us that every thing is looked at in these buy backs. So this is just a note to let you be aware.

    farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Do you mean that the signal of your Lambda sensor is left aside by default as long as the IAT is high enough?
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    What I found is that the IAT with the EGR active is about 195F.
    I simply put a resistor in that tells the PCM that the temperature is where it is supposed to be when the EGR is supposed to be active.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    This said, someone could try to put a blind over the intercooler when shifting hesitations occur. It would be a cute way get the EGR out of the circuit? Worth a try :)
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Well we all worry about the Boost Pressure Intake Air Temp Sensor to be clean at all time, but what about the Camshaft Position Sensor. Does it have to be clean?, it is in the same intake chamber which is extremilly dirty with soot from the EGR. Talking about soot, what about doing the Orm, does it work, is it worth it?, they said that the soot will go away and the oil will be always clean. are you guys are doing the Orm regularly?.- Like some input - Thanks.

    Nescosmo
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    That would raise the IAT some & might cut down the amount of EGR flow.
    It would be an interesting experiment.
  • bmartinpebmartinpe Posts: 51
    I have just been told that my 2005 Liberty CRD is ready to be picked up with its sixth EGR valve replacement. This makes the seventh EGR that the little beast will have. Earlier I was told that the emissions warranty expires at 36,000, and consequently the EGR replacement will be on my dime after that time. Can I really afford to replace the EGR with each oil change?
  • boilermaker2boilermaker2 Posts: 131
    Silly question: What is the Orm?
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Just an update. The 05 CRD Jeep was replaced on April 27, 2007 by a 07 Dodge Dakota. I think you all knew that. However, today the Jeep in A Heep finally got repaired. That dealership called and said that it was fixed. It has been there so long, 110 days, they forgot that DCX is now the owner of the vehicle. We are happy with the replacement vehicle. A big headache off our shoulders. hamchamp
  • bmartinpebmartinpe Posts: 51
    When I went to pick up my Liberty and its seventh EGR valve and sixth glow plug (4 original and 2 replacements), I asked the service advisor to quote my cost on replacing the EGR valve. The parts department came back with a price of $192 US for the EGR valve. I forgot to ask if that included the throttle body and gaskets. We estimated 3 hours to pay the mechanic to do the work at $102 US per hour. So there you have it: about $500 per EGR replacement. . .with each oil change. Yes, I have asked for a meeting with the zone representative.
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    please let me no what he says
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Boilemaker.... O-R-M means Off Road Modification and what it is; You take the off the plug from the maf sensor near the air filter off and by doing that the Air Control Valve will open and the EGR valve will close, giving fresh air to the engine all the time. The Cell will come on but the engine will not absorb any more soot, fuel mileage will increase, the crd will run smother and the oil will be clean all the time. Until now peaple has not experience and disadvantage but to myself I do not know what to do. If things go that way, that will be the solution of the EGR issue. I have tried it but engine rattle some.

    Nescosmo.
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