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Jeep Liberty Diesel



  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    edited July 2010
    Good Morning,

    The maintenance required to keep your CRD running well is pretty simple. The boost sensor on top of and on the back of the intake manifold needs to be cleaned every 5000 to 7000 miles with some solvent and a soft toothbrush. The solvent Iike is Castle Solv (the spelling here is correct).

    The other bit of maintenance is what Caribou1 calls "nose blowing". Even my diesel mechanic at the local dealer I use recommends it. Make sure the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Push the button on the side of the gear selector to lock out overdrive. From a dead stop nail the accelerator and hold it to the floor until about 65 MPH. Repeat until no black clouds are emanating from the exhaust. Do this several times weekly afterward to keep the carbon build up in check. I have had the EGR valve replaced once at 14K miles. I am now at 70K miles and no problems since I have been "nose blowing".
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    edited July 2010
    When I start my CRD in the morning after sitting overnight, the idle seems uneven like it is going up and down but not enough to be seen on the tachometer. Once warmed up, the idle is even and smooth.

    Any ideas/suggestions welcome.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    The very first turbo boost carries cold air, and the boost sensor has both temperature and pressure sensing :confuse:
    The EGR may come into action too early as soon as the engine rpm is momentarily higher than idling speed. If I remember correctly the EGR operation is also temperature related; but to which sensor?
    The 'smooth running condition' (discussed here a long time ago) tries to achieve even angular acceleration of the four cylinders. You could have one set of sticky piston rings...
    Apart from fuel dripping between the engine and tranny after one tankful at a steady 75mph, I have nothing to complain about :blush:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Hello Caribou,

    The uneven idle that I described does not occur consistently every morning. I am wondering if the mass airflow sensor could be soiled? I do use a K&N air filter and before this problem started, I had just cleaned it and re-oiled it. I did not over oil the filter.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    I also use a K&N air filter and I've never seen any difference with the original or with the Mann air filters. But I always found I could get better mileage with a slightly dirty filter. In all cases my waste-gate whistles loud and clear, so there is plenty of air going to the engine.
    Your mass airflow sensor could be cleaned with a dish washing detergent, the same applies to our K&N air filter. You could try to disconnect the sensor and see if there is a change in the idling mode. I would avoid thinners and solvents and choose Isopropyl alcohol as a cleaning agent for all sensors because there is a lesser risk of damaging the polymer that provides the electrical integrity of these sensors.
    The pressure release valve of the common rail as well as the fuel pressure sensor could show signs of weakness after a few years :blush:
  • My 2006 Liberty Diesel needs a fuel filter. How do I de-pressurize the line before removing the old filter? And does the new filter re-pressurize the line? Thanks.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801

    When I changed over to a K&N filter, fuel economy improved as well as reduction in turbo lag. I have never found any oil film on the clean side of the filter.

    As to the MAF, I am going to be pulling it and clean it with MAF cleaner to see if it helps.

    The wife and I went to Florida earlier this month. Fuel economy was good considering that we used the A/C most of the trip and drove at 72 MPH. We averaged 27.1 MPG.

    Once I get the MAF cleaned, I will let you know if there is any change.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    Without any special care I was able to repeat 26.4 MPG at a steady 75 MPH while driving through Spain this summer. I kept the 4WD FULL TIME engaged as well as the A/C. Under these conditions neither the torque converter nor the extra HP you have play a role in the comparison :blush:
    Commuting in heavy traffic takes up to 20% more fuel mainly because I can't accelerate as fast as you can and my T/C just keeps spinning.
    I've had this truck for 7 years and will change whatever is needed to keep it as long as diesel fuel is available :shades:
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    Liberty diesels in Europe must have a different computer that gives the better economy. How do we get foreign computers into USA vehicles?
  • I have to say a special thanks to my Jeep Cherokee/Liberty. It saved me and my son from a stay in hospital but it died in the process! We were hit side on this afternoon by somebody asleep at the wheel of a Volvo Estate. I loved that car and will really, really miss it.
    :( :sick:
  • mdamickmdamick Posts: 277
    There is no pressure in the filter. They have no lift pump, unless someone added it.
    It sucks through the filter, so just unscrew it.
    Make sure you get it fully primed when replaced. ;)
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801

    The computers used in Europe are probably the same as we have here. It is the parameters of the software that are different because in Europe they go after different pollutants than they do here in the U.S.

    What gives the Europeans better fuel economy, in my view, is that the fuel is better than here and the engines, at least for now, are less encumbered with pollution control devices. In the next few years, European pollution control specs will be as tight as what we have here.
  • I had the Blower Motor Recall taken care of back in june and I don't recall useing my electric side mirrors until today and they only work a little and then stop...I was told that they replaced the blower motor and something else that had to do with the speed of the motor because it was blowing full blast or nothing at all "which it was doing & that was the real reason I took it in for the recall"..I was charged for the part that fixed the speed of the blower only !! But I do not know why both of the electric side mirrors will only move slightly and just quit ??
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    thstranger: To tell you honestly, I can't recall how they fixed the mirrors. It has been more than 4 years ago, and Chrysler bought back my CRD on April 4, 2007. My "Green Beast" was in the dealers shop 25 times in 17 months, and I knew all the mechs names by heart. Chrysler called me, I did not even think they reviewed these things!

    However our 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Touring AWD is the best vehicle we have ever owned! We got the Lifetime Powertrain Warrenty and bought the LifeTime Max Care extended Warranty so maybe this will be the last new vehicle we will have to buy. We have 76,000 miles on the PAC and it gets 24 mpg, so all in all it has been the best thing to happen to us.

    I enjoy getting up dated on this forum, and was supprised to get your note. I hope the CRD works well for you, happy driving!

  • Thank you for the reply, I really haven't had many problems other than "Recalls" and a transmission solonoid at 1450 miles..The mirrors work when I first start the Jeep but only for a couple adjustments then they won't move. I will most likely not take it to a Dealer as I'm sure they won't have any idea and will spend too much time just trying to figure out the problem, and i'm always affraid that some careless tech will screw something else up. When I got the jeep back from getting the blower motor recall done, I opened the glove box and it just fell off on the floor.The tech didn't even snap it back on so I did it :confuse:
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50

    You don't have too. To fix all of the problems with the engine's preformance and increase milage PLUS reduce EGR valve issues do what I have done! - GREEN DIESEL ENGINEERING and get their ECO TUNE. Their engineer wrote or co-wrote the ECM program for the CRD Liberty. This ECM program still limits the torque, but only when the torque converter is locked and in overdrive, GDE's ECM engine program makes around 280 ft-lbs when the TC is locked. The F37 program limits it to 260 ft-lbs, When unlocked you have 335 ft-lbs around 1800 RPM amd 188 HP near 4000RPM.
    They also have a tune IF you have the Euro TC which does not limit torque in lock-up. D-C limited the torque as the Stock TC cannot handle all of the torque this motor can produce, hence the SHUTTER when loading the drive train. GDE's program has to do the same as the hardware can not take the loads, so to prevent damaging the TC the torque is limited. I have no affiliation with GDE, other that I have purchased their product. They are on the web.
  • Thanks Zoomy, I will look "GDE" up on the net. But how can this fix my mirror's ?
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50

    I was responding to warren9 question on the ECM program, he wanted the European program. If someone he knew in Europe could upload their program, it then could be emailed to him; then he could download it into his ECM and then he would have the same program: assuming full interchangability. Both would need the correct hardware to do this transfer. Buying the local USA ECO tune would be cheaper. :)

    I am asuming that both mirrors stop working.

    In you case I would check the wiring in the power mirror circuit starting with the fuse, and look very closely to see if there is a relay in the circuit. The relay could have a broken winding that opens when heated dropping out the relay, or have burnt contacts. Use a volt-ohm meter to check each part of the circuit.

    When working on the blower motor the dealer's tech could have pinched a wire, after you move the mirrors do you have to replace a fuse? This circuit could also have a circuit breaker or thermo overload device to protect the mirror motors, these would also need to be checked.
  • I'm sorry Zoomy, somehow I got confused .....Both mirrors will move maybe in three different directions right after I start the Jeep, then neither of them will move again...seems like the drivers side mirror will move just a little more than the passenger mirror but not by much...I would say that they will move up,down,and maybe to the left or right and then they will not move again till the Jeep is turned off and restarted. I don't move them around often except when pulling and backing the camper I might need to adjust them....
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Yesterday I pulled the MAF on my CRD. It had a light sticky coating of something on most of the surfaces. I used MAF cleaner and discovered that the real working part(s) of the MAF had a thin black coating of goo on them. I checked the inside of the airbox and found no dirt or oil film. I use a K&N filter in my CRD. I will be driving my CRD later today and let you how the cleaning has impacted the way the engine runs.

    CEL came on early last week and I had the dealer interogate the PCM. Number four glowplug is the culprit and I am going to try to replace it myself. Do I need any special tools? I know I will need to move the fuel filter assembly.

    Thanks in advance.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    edited August 2010
    Hi winter2,
    Deep socket wrenches are used for glow plugs. The only worry is that you need to vacuum clean around the plugs prior to removing them. Any accumulation of dirt between the plug and engine will fall into the cylinder. You can take this opportunity to rinse your engine with low pressure water; most of the gunk is easily removed and the engine compartment will look new :)
    When one plug fails we usually change the four...
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Thanks Caribou. Do you know what size deep socket I will need? I will degrease the engine prior to doing surgery even though it is pretty clean.

    I drove with the cleaned MAF and performance was a bit perkier, the turbo whistled more freely, idle was smoother and shutdown was also also smoother. Took more cranking to get it started. I am wondering if #4 glowplug failed and took all of the glowplugs or if is the result of the MAF cleaning. I will let you know tomorrow.
  • fishncampfishncamp Posts: 2
    edited August 2010
    On occasion while towing a 3000# camper I experience a loss of power. If I start from a dead stop and try to accelerate quickly usually 2nd or 3rd gear is where the loss occurs and sometimes there is a jerk with the loss of power. Other times it happens at hwy speed 65-70 and I slowly lose speed and power. After the loss of power I experience the problem of not being able to rev over 3k RPM. And my speed is maxed around 25 and it does not shift. After this happens I can cycle the ignition several times or disconnect the battery and the problem disappears. Just the other day this happened and after disconnecting the trailer and driving on the HWY 65-70 MPH the loss of power occurred again. No lights come on to indicate a problem and I have not attached an OBD tool as I usually get rid of the problem before having one handy. Before going to the stealership I thought I would look here. I have seen some similar reports indicating EGR or CAC hose problems. Any help would be great, I just need to get headed in the right direction. :confuse: Thanks in advance!!

    I should add I clean the EGR and MAF sensor ( I think it is the MAF on top the engine near the back) every oil change.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Have you tried shifting into Neutral to unlatch the tranny and a second later bring it back into gear? I had to do this a few times to get rid of a 'sticky shifting'. This could be caused by a timeout issue in the logic.

    Concerning the side view mirrors that stop working for an unknown reason, I'm in the same situation. I guess it's a cheap 3 cables construction and they got corroded over the years :confuse:
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Mine are 16 or 17 mm deep socket, yours may be different. There is no need to over tighten these plugs and I would recommend to put a drop of gun grease or 'Molykote grease' on the thread. Don't forget to disconnect the battery and look for weak (soft) spots on the leads connecting the plugs.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    edited August 2010
    Thanks Caribou. I am going to stop at the dealer after work to glean more info/tricks to make the change easier.

    I am going to use some anti-seize compound on the threads so they do not bind in the heads if I ever have to replace them.

    I find the placement of the glow plugs amazingly bizzare, under the intake manifold. I guess they had no room on top of the head.

    As to the MAF, I drove the Jeep on the highway to work this morning. Had noticeably more power and the sag at 68 MPH is now gone. Also, less smoke too considering that I have almost none. I wonder how often I should clean the MAF, maybe yearly or every six months?
  • I have not tried that but if/when it happens again I will see if that helps. I also forgot until now when I bought the jeep there was a work record for a "low fuel sensor" issue that caused a similar problem. Any idea what that might be ?
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    I have read that others have use this valve, so that the threads are no longer disturbed.
    F-102(PF-3/8) Fumoto Oil Drain Valve - Ships Free!
    Change Oil Quick & Clean. Good-bye to Oil Drain Plug.
    They have them on EBAY for $27 with free delivery.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    get some Di-Electric grease, radio shack and most electronic places sell it. Whenever you expose an electric connection, put a little on it. Your mirrors sound like a weak connection. Beleive it or not, there are also people whose body chemistry screws with electrical devices, My wife is one of them, We have 5 cars, every one the window control no longer works on her side. Her gold wedding ring disolves and we have to take it to the jeweler and have it re-coated with new gold. She cannot wear a watch with a gold band, it disolves. Wierd but true.
    The Di-electric grease helps maintain a good solid connection, which will increase the life of any motor. A bad connection = low voltage, which will cause premature failure.
  • Thanks for the info Uncle Bob, I haven't tryed anything yet....where should i put the di-electric grease exactly ?? thanks again
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