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Jeep Liberty Diesel



  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Has your jeep had the F37 re-call done? (change Torque convertor).
    Sounds like the Torque converter is bad. These are fantastic vehicles once set up correctly. The engine has too much torque for the stock convertor. Sooner or later, (if we drive hard or tow), we will have to up-grade to a stronger convertor. This is not cheap, and all torque convertors are not equal. The Suncoast is suppose to be one of the best, but can cost $800. There are decent ones in the $400 to $500 range that will work for 99% of us.
    There is also a Transgo shift kit, that runs around $50 and is not hard for the average backyard mechanic to install. It gets rid of shift lag.
    Go to the LostJeep Forum and start reading about your CRD from actual owners. Some of these guys are light years ahead of the dealer techs.
    Best of luck: Bob
  • mrmag00mrmag00 Posts: 16
    edited October 2010
    I too have the same issue when I first start out in the mornings. Sometimes I shift into reverse to back out and it takes 15-20 seconds
    to move. Pump has to pressurize...... Then when I back out the converter locks up in reverse and will stall the motor. I had one heck of a time restarting one time so I have learned that when it is going to happen I just shift into netural and back into reverse and everything works fine after that. Also have it lock up when I first put it into drive
    but its downhill and I can hear the motor almost stall and then I hear
    a metalic clunk/ting and it releases. Again only on startup and then
    runs fine all day long. Get use to reacting and going to netural or you might find youself into a wall or something at some point.
  • 05crdjeep05crdjeep Posts: 59
    edited October 2010
    F37 Included replacing the torque converter. At the dealer's choice they also could replace the Front Pump. I had to have both done. As soon as the Front Pump was replaced the noise and the delay in engagement disappeared. I have had no problems since and the mileage is still good.
  • vmlmvmlm Posts: 1
    I expect to buy a Liberty Diesel in a couple days. What should I look for in way of deal killers? This will be my first Diesel and I would like to avoid it being a costly mistake.
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    I don't believe the dealer replaces the TC. It's just a detune that robs about 10 mpg.
  • gymb2gymb2 Posts: 6
    Thanks for your replying to my inquiry. I took my 06 Diesel Liberty to the dealer today and I printed out your info and the other responses that it generated and took it with me. The service manager was very interested in all that was said and I think you all have given him a good place to start. I will let you know what is done. Thanks again for all of your good info. I really like my Jeep. I have hauled a couple of loads of firewood out of the mountains and hauled a couple of loads of hay for my wife's horse.

    A second question would be has anyone hooked up trailer brakes? If so, any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Thanks again everyone. Jim (gymb2)
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    I have had it done with no loss in fuel economy whatsoever. Whoever did your F37 screwed up something.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    This transmission has problem with drain back. If you let it sit long enough, the fluid in the TC will drain back into the pan. When you start it, especially the first start of the day, let it idle for about 30 seconds. I had that with my 2005 but that was resolved by an update the dealer put in when I had the F-37 done.
  • gymb2gymb2 Posts: 6
    Thanks for the confirmation that this is not a unique problem to just my tranny. The dealer said that the F-37 did not apply to my 06. Supposedly the problem was resolved in the manufacture of the later models, mine was manufactured 05/15/06. Obviously not. So I still have the problem if that is what it could be called.

    Do you know what was done within the F-37 that resolved the drain back?

    I have taken to letting it warm up as you have suggested before I put it in gear and it is ready to drive. Thanks for the info.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    I have noticed that Diesels in General, like to idle for about 45 seconds in the morning before putting them in gear. This is the case with my 92 Dodge cummins as well.
    From what I gather with the F37 recall, they replaced the Torque convertor with another junky one, just buying time to get out from under the warrenty. In some cases they also replaced the pump.
    You might try a Transgo shift kit, they run about $50 and are pretty easy to install. You have to drop the transmission pan and it can be a bit messy, but I had no problems doing it and I never worked on an Automatic Transmission before.
    It gives you a much more positive shift
  • elder2elder2 Posts: 17
    I installed a voyager electric trailer brake controller in my '05 CRD which I got new with the factory tow package. Jeep included a package that had a 7 - 4 pole plug adapter and a pigtail w/plug for easy installation of a brake controller. I looked all over for the harness recieptical in vain. Looked on this site for information and found that others had the same experience. The supplied pigtail only works with Dodge pickups with the tow package, the CRDs never wired for it. I bought an electronic wire tracer that injects a signal into wire that is traced then with a reciever probe. I needed to find where the blue wire from the 7 pole female plug in back went to in the front. It was a, surprise, red wire under the driver side carpet. The other 3 wires were easy. The brake signal was either a white or light gray on the brake pedal switch.
  • nylibnylib Posts: 9
    Yesterday my 05 Liberty (85K miles) began engine surging and abnormal smoking at low speeds (20-30mph). I also noticed I was burning through fuel at a much higher rate. There was no "check engine" light at the time. It was barely driveable. When I got home I did some research on-line and, as was suggested,I disconnected the MAF sensor on the air cleaner. I drove it and it ran fine. I disassembled and removed the MAP sensor. It was filled with shoot and I cleaned it, re-installed it, and hooked the MAF sensor back up. Upon test driving it the engine again surged and the smoke reappeared. Of course after disconnecting the MAF sensor my check engine light is on.
    I'd like to proceed and get it running properly without the engine light on and without the constant hesitation and smoke.
    I live in upstate NY and my dealership are generally clueless about the CRD because there are so few of them here.
    Looking for suggestions. Thanks.
  • gymb2gymb2 Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info on the trailer brakes. I appreciate all the leg work that is done by so many on this forum. Have a great Day!
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Have hou blown its nose lately? Something they recommend you do every couple of weeks. get on an on-ramp, from a stop, turn the OD off and floor it to 65 or so, until it stops smoking. Repeat until the Smoke goes away.
    To get around the MAF sensor engine light thing. Remove your computer and send it to Green Diesel for the GRD Eco tune ($450). this will also increase your power and MPG, Controls the sensor without having the engine light on.
    To keep all the oil Gunk from stopping up your engine, buy and install a Provent 200. It will collect all that gunk instead of allowing it to settle in your hoses and EGR valve.
    I bought my 2006 in August and did alot of reading on the different Forums. I got mine at a great price so, It did not bother me to spend the cash immediately to make it last longer and get the Best MPG I could.
    A Transgo shift kit for the transmission is another highly recommended addition, as is a fuel lift pump.
    You can google the Jeep manufacturer, give them your VID # and ask if it is current on all the Recall's.
    Have Fun! Bob
  • lippslipps Posts: 10
    Try using MAF cleaner. A spray can costs about 7.00. You may need a new unit, (bring your wallet!)
    If you havent installed a Provent now is the time. I get about an ounce of oil per 1000 miles out of it. Most of that will end up in the EGR valve and intercooler without the Provent.
  • lakelvrlakelvr Posts: 21
    edited October 2010
    Something is going on here and i'll have to take it in but would be nice if I had some idea of the problems beforehand. Would appreciate any advice anyone has to offer.

    2005/85K CRD. Glow plug light does not come on or only gives you a 1/10 second blink.
    The engine also occasionally stops shortly after start up but restarts when fuel is hand pumped to a point where the fuel bubles? from one of the electrical sensors at the top of the pump. The engine also will occasionally start normally and then loose power until it is shut off and restarted (loss of turbo corrected by computer reset?). The crank time before cold start has increased significantly in recent months. The check engine light does not stay on and no codes come up.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    If you pump the fuel filter and you have fuel leaking from a sensor port, you will need to replace the holder for the fuel filter canister. It appears as if air is being sucked into the fuel injection system from that sensor and the injection system is becoming air bound. Air in the injection system will contribute to longer cranking times and many of the symptoms you have described. You definitely need to get that repaired.

    As to the glow plug situation, glow plug duration is pretty much or mostly dependent on the temperature of the engine. If the engine has been sitting overnight, and ambient temperature is fairly warm then the glow plug light will only come on for a split second. If the temperature is really cold, then the light will stay on for up to two to four seconds.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    I forgot to mention one other item in my response to you. The fuel line from the fuel tank and the return to the fuel tank. I have heard from time to time that these hoses can rot and start leaking where they connect to the fuel filter assembly. Also check the hose clamps of these lines to be sure they are snug.
  • Hello;

    I would replace the fuel filter mounting/manual pumping assy. There have been recalls on them because of air leaks cracks etc. I believe this would take care of the need to pump up the fuel system.

    The glow plug system generally only blinks on in moderate temperatures. My 2005 little gold coil indicator lamp only stays on for three seconds when it is Zero degrees. However, if you just want too replace the glow plug module, it is a pricey plugin. No labor for someone who has the complete compliment of thumbs.

  • I have just about decided to park my Jeep Liberty back in the show room using the "Pet Door" after all the trouble I have had with the emergency break shoes/springs/drum/links on the rear axle. What a fricking tinker toy scheme for a parking break.

    Has anyone found a method to keep the springs and links from rusting away? Has someone come up with an after market replacement. "Ya know, sometimes ya just can't fix Stupid" and maybe the answer is to remove stupid from the rear brakes completely.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    You might be able to tighten the fuel electrcal sensor or replace the "O" ring.
    If not the up-grade replacement for the complete asembly is the Racor 245R.
    AIr leaks into the fuel system (unfortunately) are fairly common. The "banjo" connections back by the fuel tank often will allow air to be sucked in as well.
    Many have replaced the In tank float assembly with one that has a fuel pump in it out of a 2002-2007 Dodge Diesel truck (I did). this pressurizes the fuel system so no air can be sucked into it.
    The CRD is a really neat little vehicle, but Jeep did some cost cutting and added Smog crap that it was not designed to have. If you read the forums there are several very progressive back yard mechanics that have brought these Liberty's up to their true potential. I followed their advise and made most of their recommended aditionas and subtractions right after I bought my 2006 last August.
    Don't give up on it, just jump through the hoops ASAP and then enjoy it for years.
  • You didn't mention or forgot to, when you clean the MAP Boost Sensor, you need to unplug the Negative Battery lead. What this does when you've completed the cleaning and remounting is at the time of reconnection, reset the manifold pressure. When the MAP get plugged up it in turn miss reads the pressure, and the computer holds that reading unless the battery is disconnected. My guess is why you are getting the code of over pressure. I clean mine every other oil change, I also have a Provent CCV filter system that has really made a difference. Every 20,000 miles change your boost solenoid filter - right side looks like a small fuel filter. I had to replace one EGR and with the Provent filter and regularly cleaning the MAP sensor have driven 125,000 miles and no problem. Good luck
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    I generally do not disconnect the negative battery cable when I clean the MAP Boost sensor. I clean the sensor with every oil change or about every 5000 miles. The boost solenoid filter gets changed every May or about every 15,000 miles.

    Never had an over pressure code and do not have a Provent. I have very little dirt/oil in the hoses to and from the CAC and I have cleaned the CCV at least once with some solvent. It had very little residue in it. Have 75.5K on the CRD and it runs fine. Need to change the serpentine belt though as it it is slipping a bit.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    You may be due for an alternator change if you hear the serpentine belt :(
    Observe the front of the free spinning pulley of the alternator: if it collected dust or brownish powder/residue this is a $500 warning. I also suspect the bad rectifier of my alternator shortened the life of my battery...
    Since I replaced my alternator (more than a year ago) the pulley remains clean. You can disconnect the 'Field' of the alternator to compare the sound produced by the serpentine belt. When we had Vee belts we could not do this so accurately.

    I bought a Provent and never installed it; I also think that a better quality synthetic oil such as a 5W40 keeps the engine clean during 15,000 miles intervals (in my case).
  • Always check the clutch pulley before replacing the alternator, as they fail fairly often. Denso alternators fail not so often. I am on my second clutch pulley on my 2006 crd with 110k miles. Once tried a solid pulley and my belt got so noisy over the next several months it sounded as though parts would start falling off any minute. It quieted right down with a new clutch pulley.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801

    There is no residue or dust anywhere near or on the alternator or it's pulley. The squeal comes when I have run the Jeep for a while and I goose the gas for a bit of power. The sound is not always present.

    The belt has over 40K miles on it and there is some glazing on the smooth side of the belt and a few small cracks on the grooved side of the belt so it is time for it to go. I am going to change the belt this weekend as I have a long trip coming up in a couple of weeks. I will probably get the belt at NAPA. I have had good luck with their belts.

    Just need some pictorial instruction on how to remove the upper fan shroud.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    edited November 2010
    I don't need to remove the fan shroud to replace my serpentine belt; is your different?
    My shroud was removed for the timing belt change and the air conditioning pipes were severely 'tortured' to save a few minutes of work :sick:
    Is the glazing continuous along your belt? If so, one of the pulleys could be out of alignment.
    Your alternator voltage should be 14.3 volts before you hit the road :shades:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    The shroud is rather obtrusive and I do not have a 15mm wrench long enough to apply sufficient torque to move the tensioner. I do have a metric socket set, but getting it in there is a bear.

    The smooth side of the belt has a shiny look to it but the side with the grooves has numerous cracks and looks rather dry.

    Voltage on my alternator is 14.4 volts.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    A disposable overall is convenient for this job because you need to reach the crankshaft pulley to center the belt before applying tension. Don't forget to bring additional light because it gets quite dark down there...
    If you have a 12" handle on your ratchet this would give you sufficient leverage. To clear your hands from the pulleys use either a deep socket on a standard ratchet or a swivel head ratchet with a shallow socket to avoid ripping off the tensionner.
    Once belt tension is released (while you apply force with one hand on your ratchet) pass the belt over to the other/outer side of the pulley below the alternator and release the tensionner. Repeat the previous step after repositioning the angle of the ratchet; this will reduce the amplitude of the swing you need to compensate.
    You will get dirty for sure, but this is a safe way of doing it.
    I learned this procedure because the Jeep dealer had not repositioned my belt correctly after the timing belt change. They had left the belt running on the outer side of the pulley below the alternator and this made it squeak as you described the symptom. Good luck :shades:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801

    Thanks for the information. Will a standard depth socket work on a regular ratchet? Maybe I will purchase a 3/8 inch swivel head ratchet as it is tight in there. I have a piece of pipe that I used on a previous vehicle to improve leverage when I changed the belt on it.

    Two days ago I had the transmission serviced, both filters and replace four quarts of fluid. I had gone 5000 miles over the recommended interval. The fluid was a little dark but there was no sludge or residue in the pan. The magnet in the pan had only a very few particles clinging to it. Cost about $100 for this, including parts which I purchased.
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