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Jeep Liberty Diesel



  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    If you purchase a swivel head ratchet, get one with a long handle. You need stability when you hold the tensionner with only one hand; in this case the short socket is preferable to the deep one.
    When you combine narrow access along the fan, a long socket plus a swivel head there is an angle at which the tool becomes unstable and folds.

    My manual says the synthetic transmission oil is kept for the life of the truck. It was chosen for not retaining moisture nor allowing sludge formation due to it is hydrophobicity :confuse:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801

    I will purchase the swivel head ratchet to use with the short socket that I already have. I will use the piece of pipe I have that fits over the handle for extra leverage.

    As to the transmission fluid, a synthetic is required namely ATF+4 or equivalent. Chrysler still requires that it be changed at 30,000 mile intervals over on this side of the pond. Some companies like Amsoil, make a universal fluid that that works in some Fords, GM and others beside Chrysler. I used this fluid in my 1993 Dodge truck with good results but that transmission could also use Dexron fluids too so it did not matter that much.

    As to the differential fluids, Amsoil says their Severe Gear fluid is good for 100,000 miles and the tech at the dealer I use says that under certain conditions that would be so. The tech suggested 50,000 miles and no more than that.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Yesterday I changed the serpentine belt on my CRD. Took about 90 minutes and I now understand why the dealer charges so much to work on these engines.

    I cut away a portion of the upper fan shroud so I could access everything. The belt takes a really circuitous route around the pulleys. The old belt had 40,000 miles on it. The smooth surface was shiny but not glazed. The grooved surface had multiple cracks in it some going to the fabric belts. Good thing I got rid of it.

    I will reattach the removed portion of the shroud with some pieces of aluminum and four screws and bolts.
  • 3 days ago, my ABS warning light and brake warning light came on. Brakes still worked, ABS didn't. About 15 minutes later, everything returned to normal.

    Tonight, both lights came back on and the CRD wouldn't drive. It would shift to drive, but the engine would just rev.

    Is there a safety net on the Liberty that prevents it from driving if there is a brake warning?
  • Our 2006 CRD is at the dealers now with 50,000 miles. Oil started dripping from the engine 12-15 months ago and over last few months got worse. Checked oil drain plug but found oil up on side of engine. Dealer pulled covers, filters, hoses, etc then diagnosed a failing turbo on pass side AND leaking oil pan on D/S. I have GEICO INS mechanical breakdown Ins so they had to verify problems.

    Dealer fixed those THEN called saying they STILL have a leak and suspect the engine rear main seal (which I had asked them about when I took it in). I am in Cal-e-fornia and since the CRD was never sold here I always get "we have never seen this before" story. Our's is the ONLY CRD this dealer has ever seen!

    They are suppose to have the vehicle back together this week. They can't tell me if this is a problem we can expect to see again since "they have never seen the CRD before".

    Had the fuel filter assembly replaced last year after OBD kept reporting related failure codes. The new filter fixed the problems.
  • Possibly at the EGR valve. Common problem, a provent system can avoid this in the future.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    The wife and I took the CRD to Florida. Had pretty good fuel economy. At speeds of 100 kph (62 mph) I got about 31 mpg (calculated). At cruising speeds of 72 mph got about 26.7 mpg (calculated).

    Price of diesel is now greater than $3.00/gallon everywhere south of Virginia. Regular gas is about $0.20 (average) less per gallon. As I see it, diesel fuel is still a good bargain.

    In Monday's USA Today (11/22/2010) there was a small article in the business section that might be pointing to higher diesel fuel prices. The mainland Chinese intend to import more diesel fuel as their refinery capacity cannot keep up with demand.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    The "Winter2" screen name is now defunct. I have a new ISP and I have had to change my screen name. The new name is "Winter51".

  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Your ISP should have nothing to do with the net sites you visit and belong to.
  • fustfust Posts: 29
    Need Help? I am ready to replace my timing belt and in the service manual you need to set the timing at 90 degrees after top dead centre. To verify this there is an access hole for which you can insert tool # vm 1089 or an allen key as well as the timing mark on the crank shaft. My problem is locating this access hole can't find it. Does any one who may have replaced their timing belt know the exact location or possible any pictures of it. Thanks in advance.
  • This is what I found in my service manual:
    Also a note not to rotate the crank counter clockwise.

    NOTE: Rotate the engine by the front crankshaft
    bolt until the witness mark next to the bolt in the
    front crankshaft hub reaches the 12 o’clock position,
    or TDC. Rotate the engine another 1/4 turn to
    the right, rotating the witness mark to the three
    o’clock position, or 90 degrees ATDC.
    (3) Rotate engine by hand until the witness mark
    in the front crankshaft hub reaches the 3 O’clock
    position (Fig. 145).
    (4) Raise and support the vehicle.
    (5) Remove the splash shield.
    CAUTION: The engine block, flywheel, and/or flex
    plate, has an alignment hole to assist in properly
    aligning the crankshaft before service. Failure to
    properly align the crankshaft may result in improper
    valve timing and engine damage.
    (6) Insert the long end of a 6mm Allen wrench into
    the 90 degree ATDC access hole on the right lower
    side of the engine block. The engine is aligned properly
    when the short end of the Allen wrench is parallel
    to the rear of the engine block. (Fig. 146) .
    (7) If the small end of the Allen wrench protrudes
    away from the engine block (alignment hole in the
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Before you remove the timing belt release compression pressure and make your own marks along the belt, pulleys and engine block. It's very easy to work on a bench but gets painful after a while when you reach into the engine compartment :(
    Don't panic if one of the driven pulleys spins free when after the belt is removed; the timing is related to the diameter of each pulley and number of teeth (distance) between timing marks. Good luck.
  • nylibnylib Posts: 9
    I empathize with the lack of Chrysler/Jeep dealers and techs who no virtually nothing about the CRD. I live in NY where my local Jeep dealer is clueless. I felt I was paying for their mechanic to "learn on the job" to the tune of $88+ per hour every time I brought in to them. Most of the time they misdiagnosed the problem(s) and took days to eventually get to the bottom of what was wrong. Actually I found more factual advise on this site than at my dealer.
    After owning my 05 Liberty for 5 years, I traded it in this weekend for a Ford F150.
    I loved my CRD but felt it had become a pink elephant with little or no support from Jeep.
    Good luck and thanks to all who support this forum.
  • Does anyone know how to check the belt without taking things apart?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    You may need an endoscope and a lot of patience if you slightly open the protective cover :)
  • lippslipps Posts: 10
    I normally do all my own maintenance on the CRD. However after reviewing the service manual for replacing the timing belt, and taking note of the special tools required I elected to have the dealer do it. I had them return the old parts. After looking at the parts, I cant say that this engine would not have gone another 20-30,000 miles. However a failure would have been much more expensive. Living in Houston I am fortunate enough to have a “trained” jeep mechanic close by.
    They recommended that the water pump be replaced at the same time, as it is mostly the same procedure. My own forensic study of the pump indicated that may have not been needed. The pump is very well manufactured.
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    Jeep Liberty CRD Timing Belt Replacement
    Procedure (2.8l diesel)

    1. Remove cooling fan and shroud. The fan assembly is best
    removed with a very large crescent wrench on the nut just behind
    the fan viscous coupling. Then hit the wrench in a counter
    clockwise direction with a small sledgehammer. It may help to
    spray with penetrating oil. Worst case, wedge something behind
    the fan drive pulley to keep it from rotating and then use the
    sledge method.

    2. Remove accessory drive belt.

    3. Remove both idler pulley (right hand thread, 16 mm) (a), power
    steering pump (3 bolts that you get to by rotating the pulley, 10
    mm) (b), accessory belt tensioner (c), cooling fan pulley and
    bracket( 4-13 mm bolts) (d), crankshaft pulley/damper (4-10mm
    bolts, you may need to hold the pulley by the 21 mm center bolt)
    (e), and alternator (2-13 mm bolts on the front and 1-15 mm on
    the back side-note you will have to loosen the 2-13 mm bolts for
    the bracket that holds the alternator to the cylinder head) (f) .

    4. Remove the front timing cover (7mm bolt x 17)

    5. Remove both plugs in the camshaft cover (one on intake side
    behind alternator placement, one on exhaust side behind
    thermostat area). Remove the plugs with a 5mm hex.

    6. Rotate the engine clockwise only with a 21mm socket on the
    front of the crankshaft until a 6mm hex key engages the hole in
    the flexplate/flywheel.

    7. Inspect the two openings in the camshaft cover to see if the holes
    in the camshafts align. If so, install the two pins into the
    respective camshaft. If not, rotate the engine 360 degrees at the
    crankshaft and re-inspect.

    8. Loosen the timing belt tensioner and rotate counterclockwise by
    hand until slack is sufficient to remove the belt from the pulley.
    Remove the old timing belt; discard when the refitting operating
    is completed successfully.

    9. Loosen both camshaft pulleys by rotating the bolt (17mm)
    counterclockwise. It is sufficient to have them loose; they do not
    need to be removed.

    10. Ensure that the high-pressure fuel pump pulley is oriented
    properly (see picture) and fit the new belt to the engine. Starting
    from the crankshaft pulley, remove the slack out of the belt by
    using the camshaft gear locking tool to pull the tension across the
    pulleys. Then torque the two camshaft pulley bolts to the
    specified torque in service manual.

    11. With the belt properly installed around the pulleys, tension the
    timing belt with the pulley as shown in the picture. If the proper
    handle isn’t available, the pulley can be moved with two 3mm hex
    keys. Rotate the tensioner until the proper gap on the pulley is
    achieved. Tighten the center fixing bolt to 30N-m.

    12. Remove the two camshaft pins and crankshaft pins and rotate the
    engine 720 degrees and verify that the timing belt tensioner is
    still in the proper orientation.

    13. Reinstall the timing belt cover and all ancillary components.

    I have a set of pictures in a PDF file with these instructions. The picutres are labed.

    If someone know how I can attach the pdf file let me know and I will.

    Also, Green Diesel Engineering rents the tools to change the belt I think, they charge $20 plus a deposit. Haven't done mine yet

    My 2 cents
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    Fuel Milage Update:
    Gas Mileage PRE F37

    Jeep Only; Mostly all highway miles (95%+) (30 mile each way to work)
    Total miles 27,421.6 Fuel used 1117.2 gallons
    mileage: Highest: 28.23 Lowest: 21.21 Average: 24.54

    Jeep and Aero-lite Zoom 718FD 18’ 56 sq frontal area travel trailer tandem axles
    Total miles 2551.7 Fuel used: 153.3 gallons
    mileage: Highest: 20.55 Lowest: 13.6 Average: 16.6
    Gas Mileage with F37,

    Jeep Only; Mostly all highway miles (95%+) (30 miles each way to work)
    Total Miles: 25,480.5 Fuel used: 1089.7 gallons
    Mileage: Highest: 28.93
    Lowest: 19.97 (Citco fuel, I marked it down in the mileage log book)
    Average: 23.38

    Jeep and Aero-lite Zoom 718FD 18’ 56 sq frontal area travel trailer tandem axles:
    Total miles 2905.2 Fuel used: 156.1 gallons
    mileage: Highest: 19.66 Lowest: 15.35 Average: 18.61

    Gas Mileage F37 and New Tires Firestone A/T P235R 16.
    Jeep Only; This is 94% city driving with a 2 miles each way to work
    Total Miles: 12,843.6 Fuel used: 614.8 gallons
    Mileage: Highest: 27.19 Lowest: 16.24 Average: 20.89

    Jeep and Aero-lite Zoom 718FD 18’ 56 sq frontal area travel trailer tandem axles
    Total miles: 1119.1 Fuel used: 71.4 gallons
    mileage: Highest: 17.67 Lowest: 14.55 Average: 15.67

    Green Diesel Engineering Eco Tune Modification (Low data samples)
    Jeep Only
    Total Miles: 711.1 Fuel Used: 28.2 gallons
    Mileage: Highest: 31.3 Lowest: 19.2 Average: 25.2

    Driving highway for roughly 500 miles topping off twice just to check after the ECO tune installation, the CRD got 31.3 and 30.6 MPG

    Other mileage is around town getting 19.2 with a short drive to work of 2 miles.

    Green Diesel Engineering ECO Tune Modification pulling camper. This was heavy load trip with the trailer weight in at 4400# driving 62 to 65 MPH in the hills of Southern Ohio
    Total Miles: 539.8 Fuel Used: 35.1 gallons
    Mileage: Highest: 15.9 Lowest: 14.7 Average: 15.4

    Combination Mileage: 120 Highways miles, 30 miles with camper (extra light load), remaining are miles are around town.
    Total Miles: 331 Fuel Used: 16.2
    Mileage: 20.4 MPG

    Around town no change compared to section #3.
    The A/T tires cost less than 2 MPG on the highway, which is a lot, but is cheap for the safer tire.

    F37 recall effected the average mileage by 1.16 MPG, keep in mind my transmission did not get reprogrammed.
    Best comparison is Improvement is close 2 MPG on an average.

    This is a Fill and Refill method
  • fustfust Posts: 29
    Thanks for the reply with all that great info, point #6 indicates to install the hex key into the access hole , can"t find it would love to see some pictures or a detailed description of were it is, Thanks again.
  • My 2006 Liberty CRD has 110k miles on it. I'm thinking that I need to change the timing belt this spring / summer. I would like to hear from other CRD owners about when they changed their timing belts and what condition they were in.
  • winter51winter51 Posts: 5
    edited December 2010
    Good Morning,

    Just want to write a brief note. While returning home from our vacation, the engine on my CRD simply imploded at 75 mph. Initially there was a bang then a washboard vibration throughout the car, loss of power steering with the Jeep pulling hard to the left. I managed to get the Jeep off of the road and limp it into a Florida rest stop. When I got under the hood, the coolant tank was empty, no oil in the oil pan and the serpentine belt tensioner had been ripped off the front of the engine. Motor oil was dripping all over the ground and the whole underside of the Jeep was covered with oil.

    Had the CRD towed to the nearest dealer in Melbourne FL. There diesel tech pulled the skid plate and it was covered with pieces of metal. The front half of the oil pan looked like a sieve. There were multiple holes in the iron block on both sides and number one piston and connecting rod were gone (per the tech). The tech called Chrysler and neither he nor the Chrysler engineer had ever heard of this engine imploding like this one did.

    I have 77594 miles on the car and have a claim in with Chrysler to make this right.

    Thanks (formerly Winter2)
  • I had a blown engine somewhat like yours at about 40k miles on my 2006 CRD a few years ago. My failure was not as catastrophic as yours but the engine and turbocharger were shot just the same. In my case it was at night, near zero temp, and the "low coolant light came on". I tried to get to at least get a few miles to a gas station but did not make it. Something screwy with the sensor placements on this engine. The temp gauge never showed high coolant temp, and all the coolant leaked out. I realized I was screwed when the heater started blowing very cold air and started to pull over on the side of the expressway. Too late, the engine was toast. Turns out the water pump sprung a leak and all the coolant escaped there. Lucky for me Chrysler / Jeep stepped up and replaced the water pump, cylinder head, engine & turbocharger free of charge. For 2006 models the warranty was at 36k miles. I wish you luck, but at 77k miles it may be a different outcome.
  • Funny thing about the warning lights. None came on until after the event occurred. The temperature gauge was in it's usual position, just below midline, tach was at 2150 RPM. The engine was burbling along as it normally would.

    The scary part about all of this is that had any of the shrapnel had come through the back of the engine, I wonder if any could have entered the passenger compartment.
  • WOW, talk about a bad day. Very sorry to hear about it.
    Is it under an extended warrenty?
    Did the check engine light come on prior to the Bang?
    Did you happen to notice if it was overheating?
    What did the other 3 pistons look like?
    It would be interesting to get some pics. It sounds like the connecting rod between the crankshaft and piston failed or came loose on the #1 piston causing it to break the piston apart and with the right timing when it fired the piston was past its TDC and under super high pressure the piston became a fragment bomb.
    Just a guess, but it sounds good!
    Please keep us posted on the final out come and diagnosis. My CRD has the same miliage on it.
  • This is exactally what happend to mine last month. To make matters worse, I bought a new used block had it installed and less than 2 later, just two days ago, while going 15mph it happend again.
  • winter51winter51 Posts: 5
    edited December 2010

    The gauges and lights were all in their normal positions/states just prior to the event. Nothing was out of the ordinary. The oil pressure light, coolant level light and the CEL came on after the event had occurred. The temperature gauge was it where it normally would be prior to the event.

    The service writer was able to show me one of the holes in the block near where number three cylinder would be located. The hole was about 2.5 inches in diameter and you could see into the crankcase itself.

    Based on what the tech told me, number one piston and connecting rod were gone.

    I have been playing telephone tag with my case manager since yesterday. I am keeping my fingers crossed.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter51,
    I really wish you an efficient transaction with your case manager but if I were in your shoes, I'd be eager to play with a different Toy... Father X-mas :confuse:

    I once posted this message and maintain my position:

    Experience taught me not to operate this engine at a steady speed for long periods, never lock it into O/D at low RPM and high torque, and in my case check the external oil pump hoses on my original Italian engine block! Do you have the Chinese engine?

    I don't believe in fatality and when a connecting rod breaks there is a reason :(
  • Caribou,

    The engine in my CRD was made in Italy. I did not realize that this engine was not as robust as it should be. So in essence, I am dealing with a marginally built diesel engine. I find this to be disconcerting.

    This was my tenth or eleventh round trip to Florida in my Jeep and it always ran smoothly and quietly. It never seemed to strain or pull that hard at most any speed. If were to purchase another European built diesel, what you recommend? I can get Mercedes, BMW and VW.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I would consider a 'Blue Motion' VW for economy and short ownership, a BMW for a 10 year sport-family utility vehicle, the MB for less demanding elderly people and the AUDI for performance, pleasure, comfort and beautiful workmanship.

    Local criminals practice car jacking. They prefer AUDI so I don't want to temp them ;)

    This morning we had 32cm of fresh snow accumulated over a previous blanket of 15cm. The CRD with its second set of BFG AT tires climbed our narrow ramp (25%) without slipping and gave plenty acceleration. Driving down the ramp in reverse was trivial and braking was safe without need of ABS. Half way down the ramp I need to fold my mirror to pass an obstacle and reach my back yard so I am really concerned about grip on snow. My wife's little Dahiatsu Terios slips and twists while going down in reverse along the same ramp simply because its too light. This is why I may have to look for a mid size Toyota preferably one that has steel bumpers...

    Mercedes, BMW and VW sedans need easy parking access during the snow season unless someone cleans the driveway for you. Unfortunately this does not apply here :(
  • Caribou,

    I generally keep my cars ten to twelve years and the VW Rabbit/Golf is the one I would be able to afford. The others are just too expensive to buy/maintain. Blue Motion is not available here but 4 Motion is, but only with gas.

    I can manage well with front wheel drive as we generally do not get much snow during the winter with exceptions like last season. I would use snow tires of course.

    Cars with steel bumpers are now passe' here in the U.S.A. unless you drive a pickup truck, but they too are now going to plastic as well.
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