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Jeep Liberty Diesel



  • I own a 2006 CRD 4x4 Liberty and, rather than the Provent I changed the airbox to a V-6 airbox from my 2007 gas Liberty and, re-routed the oily hose to the side of the box. It filters and, lets the fumes get re-entered without any mess. The other line goes in right by the turbo intake is now blocked off and, unused. The Jeep runs great and, stays clean, the small amount of oil in the airbox is collected in a residual container and, I dump it at oil change. I am soon to go for the GDE Full Torque and, stage 2 turbo upgrades as well as the TCM and, HD Torque Converter. I can hardly wait to get this all done. My MPG HWY is 26-28 right now but, I think thats due alot to the Cat Back Magnaflow 2.5 system I fixed for it.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    sounds like a neat substitute for the Provent, can you post a pic?
  • My 2005 was stopping on the highway until I diagnosed the problem as a leak in the fuel filter mounting setup. Stock system has a doughnut shaped heater set between the filter and filter head. My fix: replace the filter mount AND filter with a Caterpillar brand. No problems since... AND I buy the Davidson brand filter for only $8 (yes, eight dollars). ROI in about 2 years :D.

    Note: when using the Caterpillar brand mount, there's no room for the hand pump. You must place a metal blank over the pump mounting spot, but before you do, hand grind a small channel between the input and output holes to allow fuel flow. I used a Dremel tool.

    I had a pump placed in my tank, so I'm not dependent on the hand pump when I change filters.

    Hope this helps someone out there.
  • I am a new member and searched on the forum for this issue, but was unsuccessful.
    If you know of a thread please let me know.
    I just bought a 2005 CRD and now that it is cold, 35F in the morning, the temp guage never gets to the middle. Only about half this normal.
    Also, I commute 85 miles round trip, mixed hiway and city driving and am getting 22mpg, where this fall I was getting 25mpg...and the heater does not blow hot, only warm air...
    I was wondering if the thermostat may be stuck open...
    Also there is a small light on that says type 43 every now and then....
    Thanks for your help, from Summerfield NC!
  • When these thermostat's go out they tend to stay open. Your engine will run most efficiently when the needle in straight up.
    You need to replace the thermostat ASAP to protect your engine and improve your MPG.
    They are very strange units, the thermostat is sealed inside a casting, thus a $10 thermostat costs over $100 because you have to replace the entire assembly.
    If you go to the Lostjeeps forum and do a search, there was a amature mechinist that was taking peoples old units and adapting them so that the thermostat inside was replaceable with a $10 unit. His charge was around $120 (and this was for the spacers and adapters he needs to purchase and very little for labor), if you sent him your unit. But from then on it was a much easier replacement and much cheaper. I believe he has a few he keeps in stock so it is quich exchange. Last time I E mailed him was about 9 months ago, so I mam not sure if he is still doing it or not.
  • Thanks! I just copied this and sent it to my mechanic here in High Point NC and he has a machine shop buddy, and they are going to take a look at it...if they are successful, then I will add his contact information for others....Cheers!
  • At 44000 miles my 2006 CRD check engine light came on so I bought a $50.00 code reader from and you know it....It was the EGR !!! So I crawled under the Jeep to try and get a look at where it was located and could see the METAL end of the EGR where it bolted on. I thought I would try tapping it with a socket extension about 30-40 times from the bottom LIGHTLY !! Re-Set the code and drove it pretty hard after it was warmed-up, blew out alot of black smoke and the code has not came back on after about 1000 miles. Thought this might help someone else also.....I tapped LIGHTLY....... :)
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi all,
    I haven't been into the local Jeep stealership for quite some time. Daimler got my address when I bought the Jeep back in 2003 and now FIAT calls for a subscription of 120 USD to be part of the Fiat-Jeep owners club. It seems they'll never understand :sick:

    My only issue this year was the water in fuel warning light staid ON and this forced me to disconnect the water sensor plug underneath the fuel filter. There was nothing else to worry about, no oil losses, simply a beautiful piece of mechanics that I intend to keep another decade.

    I wish you all a Merry Xmas and a Happy New Dieseling Year :blush:
  • Good Day,

    I recently purchased a Liberty 2.8 CRD. The problem i am having is that when i come to a complete stop there is a little bump what i believe is the transmission disengaging or gearing down. is this normal. i am not really accustomed to the auto transmission. It happens more obviously when i come to a quick abrupt stop. I had a chrysler 3.3L that did the same thing except that i sold the car before the issue was resolved.

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • The tranny situation is typical Chrysler engineer stupidity. If the F37 torque converter recall has not been done, DO NOT do it.
  • Back in messages 10308 and 10304, I noted that I have had battery problems. I had been keeping a tender on the batteries religiously during the cold Winter months. Well, I didn't do it at the beginning of this Winter because I bought a big new battery (again) last year and hadn't had it drained down. It drains when it sits for a few days in cold weather. I had to put the charger on it and give it some amps.

    Checking fuses I found one fuse with a current draw and had been pulling that fuse to avoid the battery being drained. Strangely enough, it was the cigarette lighter fuse and nothing was plugged in. Fine! I can drive with the fuse pulled. There must be a parasitic load on the circuit.

    Now here's why I am writing this (on New Year's Eve), today I was in an auto parts store and I met another person with a CRD. They had the same problem with the battery running down in cold weather. They installed a permanent tender next to the battery. The other Jeep owner thought there was a fuel line heater that was the culprit. Others have noted this battery problem as well. Is this a recurrent problem with this model Jeep? Some may never see this problem due to living in warmer climates.

    What's the best fix?

    Happy New Year! :)
  • My CRD is a 2006 and my factory battery lasted until 2010. I've never had the slow power drain you described but i did have the alternator pulley clutch go out. When that happened the alternator quit working and the battery went dead quick. After searching around I was able to buy a new $100 clutch pulley instead of a new $600 Denso alternator. Good luck and Happy New Year. My CRD has 150k miles and was still running strong when the transmission went out recently.
  • Hi Willysjeep
    I had the battery issue. The original jell type battery had 2 be replaced, battery blanket was not returned, also the replacement was replaced. Repair guy said when I removed the factory radio the jeeps computer continued to look 4 it thereby draining the battery. The computer was reprogrammed and problem disappeared. However my current battery’s terminals corrode faster than in any vehicle I have ever owned. I currently have about 54k miles on my Jeep Liberty CRD and its running ok. Happy New Year!
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    That is interesting Willy, That open up many possibilities, I wonder if the GRD ecotune might take care of the problem as well?
    These computers can be either our best friend or enemy.
  • I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD. I've had it for about two years now when I bought it from it's previous owner. My check engine and battery light came on before a long trip for Christmas. I replaced the battery and everything seemed good....until I got to Illinois where everything just died. Apparently a piece on the alternator, where the belt runs, was loose. This cause the belt to break and bust some pieces of plastic but nothing major that we could see. :mad: We replaced the alternator, belt, and battery altogether that week. I drove it the 12 hours back home no problem. Just yesterday the ETC light came on. I'm just looking for any advice on what the issue could be. Currently my Liberty is at a service station spitting out codes to try and tell me whats going to be the meantime I am trying to do some research. Any help is appreciated!!!!
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    Just did a little quick research;
    ETC= Electronic Throttle control.
    Dodge durango's had this problem and it turned out to be either the EGR valve or it's gasket.
    From the Jeep CRD forum: "Most likely a wet or failed speed or ABS sensor (maybe wire?). Give it some time to completely dry out & see if it goes away." This guys started acting up while in the rain, accellerating and brakeing at the same time in an attempt to dry the brake pads. ETC light started flashing and would not stop until computer was re-set.
  • gary1984gary1984 Posts: 4
    Does anyone know were to buy cheap injectors for that 2.8 CRD Vitori Motor in the 2005 Jeep. BOSCH dealers want $380 to $600, and that is just like being raped and robbed for a 6 inch half plastic half machined part.
    Of course Jeep made the motor for two years and then the EPA raped us. Then we had bail Jeep/Dodge /Chrysler out with our tax dollars. They and Government motors should hand those out like dime store candy after what they did to taxpayers.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    get the part number and use it to search, sometimes you can get parts alot cheaper that way. I am sure that the same fuel injectors are used in other applications, it's just finding them!
  • gary1984gary1984 Posts: 4
    edited March 2012
    Thanks unclebob, I have been doing that. The cheapest so far has been $319.
    I have been trying to research cross referenced brands but have had no luck yet. I have a friend at Oreilys that is doing some research too. Hopefully something will turn up. I pulled the old one and cleaned it , and replaced the 14mm O ring. It should fire again but i think I have air in my fuel

  • gary1984gary1984 Posts: 4
    Thanks again for the advice I have found a number of sources although they are priced in different ranges some as much as $ 500 difference., with Mopar being the highest. The lowest I found even with shipping is overseas. Using the GOOGLE CHROME browser translator I have found some in the $230 to $260 range, from France to the Ukraine and in to South America. I thought this may help other folks. Below I enclose the numbers with the last numbers being the foreign interchange numbers.


    5159970AA , 5159970AA , Mopar
    Manufacturer Part Number: BOSCH0986435128 , 0986435128 ,


    Interchange Part Number: Overseas UK, Brazil, France, Italy

    0445110217 , 0445110217
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Gary: The EPA has had standards long before the Jeep Crd failed it's owners. My "green Beast" was a good body just a cheaply made junky engine, that was Jeep designers fault for looking for the least expensive CRD they could put in at the time. Form the very first in 2005 when these CRD's came out the Service Tec's felt these engines were going to be big problems, and they were and still are for many. Was blessed to have Jeep call me and ask if they could buy back my CRD. My CRD was in the shop 25 times in 16 months, not a stellar record that's for sure. I was so glad to get out of that CRD.

    The CRD's that seem to have been better is ones that did not get "de-tuned & a new torque converter" That totally destroyed the HP and pulling power. Who is to blame for that?

    Here is wahts really stupid, the Jeep GC is going to have a nother V.M. CRD soon as ALPAR has reported.

    I wonder how many CRD's were bought back by Jeep, and where they wound up? When I trace my old "Green Beast" the VIN does not show up. I t might have been shipped to a foregin country, which is not unheard of.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi farout,
    If your 'Green Beast' was sent abroad, it must have lost its emission control add-ons along the way and should work fine today, just like mine :blush:

    I see more gassers here nowadays, because local prices for diesel and gas are practically even price wise and mileage between both types of engines is practically the same.
    I kept my 15 year old Toyota diesel for the city and the Jeep is mainly used for long trips and holidays with the family :shades:
  • thecipthecip Posts: 18
    Hi All, I need to state before I type that I am as far from a mechanic as Tim Tebow is to a pocket QB. My 2006 CRD with 120K miles threw its timing belt. From YouTube videos and other posts I can assume at minimum there is rocker and valve damage. Yes I now know the manual said to change the timing belt at 80K!

    Here is my issue. My neighbor, who rebuilds Hondas, wants to tear into it and fix it this spring. The parts are probably going to be upwards of 2K I figure. Not being a mechanic and relying on a volunteer to fix an engine does not appeal to me. Anyone think there is a market for a CRD with internal issues?

  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    How far are you from Maine. I'd be interested in buying the old engine. You may have bent rods and or damaged pistons. As well.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    I beleive this is an interferance engine, and bent valves is just about a 96% sure thing. To fis the head and do a valve job would be more than my four cyclender Dodge Neon, and it is going to be $ 1,500. I know these CRD's engines are REALLY EXPENSIVE to r&r. My 2005 CRD was bought back by Chrysler in 07. Good luck.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    If he is a mechanic, he should be able to fix it.
    I have seen engines on EBAY from wrecked CRD's.
    Many people have waited past 120k miles to change the timing belt with no problems and expressed how good it still looked for 120k+ miles.
    I am planing on doing mine around 100k miles.
    go to the LostJeeps forum for a list of the parts you will need and suppliers who you may be able to save a few bucks buying through.
    Best of luck.
  • thecipthecip Posts: 18
    Thanks for the pointer to lostjeeps. That is a pretty long parts list !!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    edited March 2012
    We aren't set up for buying and selling on the forums. You can mark your email public in your Profile if you want to talk to another member about parting out your car. Thanks.
  • thecipthecip Posts: 18
    will do .. sorry about that !
  • warren9warren9 Posts: 39
    OK now I need to figure how to do that.
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