Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Jeep Liberty Diesel



  • Thanks, Bob. I will do so. The dealer here in High Point, read 5 codes yesterday, and says it is lurching due to the glow plug module. Strange. I am paying him $100, and getting my Jeep back. He wants to replace all the glow plugs, and the module for $785. Sounds crazy. Starts great, and idles fine, but under load, loses power. I will post the codes once I have the Jeep back. Great idea on the fuel sending pump. Will do right away.
  • i had a similar problem, turned out it was the turbo hose going bad! dont ever let a jeep dealer work on your crd! good luck!
  • Just got the Liberty back, and the CRD cleared codes were: P0299, underboost, P0101 MAF sensor, and P0093 fuel system large leak (which i was the cause of when I changed the fuel filter and did not remove the older small gasket in the center and tried to screw the new filter on with two small center gaskets. BTW there is a conical one that I left on, I hope this was correct????? :confuse: )
    Now that these are cleared the only ones are P0673 and P0672, #2 and #3 glow plug circuit issues. Now I was looking at the quote, 3 hours to change the four plugs to the new steel ones, and the module; one hour to reflash the ECM, $257 for the replacement kit (vs $159 on EBay); $38 for a OEM air filter and .2 hours to change it ($25 at $125/hr).
    I still cannot believe that the glow plugs will make the difference, but the adviser, says it is a complicated engine, and they have corrected this problem before. OK, really?
    thanks for all your comments, the list is growning, as this will be my daughters first car, and I want it to be as perfectly reliable for her, as it has been for me till now.
  • elder2elder2 Posts: 17
    Thanks for the latest news. I believed that the ceramic glow plugs were the best? We haven't heard of many failures of them on this site. I have noticed that on warm restarts or on warm days that the glow plug lite doesn't come on at all. Why did they have to reflash the ECM and then charge you for it? I would guess they didn't have a clue as to why the CRD stopped running and where just covering all the possabilities to be sure they fixed it. The Maf and low boost codes could have been caused by air in the fuel system, which would be my guess, causing low power and eventually stalling. I will keep doing all my own work for as long as I can. I and my wife love our CRD and are the original owners and I hope the last. I plan on 300K + miles. Good luck to us all.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    if it starts and idles, I cannot see it being the glow plugs.
  • thanks elder2.
    I have only had her for about 6 months, but my daughter has to steal it from me. I am leaving the ceramics, in for now, changing the filter housing this weekend to the newest version, changing all the clamps and installing a oil catch can to keep the EGR and intake clean. After that the next on the list is a lift pump for the fuel...then we will see.
    thanks again for all the help.
  • All the lurching was the intercooler hose. It was a small slit on the back of the hose that I missed, until I was willing to reach around and actually feel for it...I took it off, and repaired it with silicone adhesive, after cleaning it very well with dawn and hot water to get all the mobil one out of it...then let it cure and wrapped it in gorilla tape. This is temp until the new one comes in from Steve White in NC. They have been great, lowest prices and very quick shipping. He assured me that it was an improvement, and disabling the EGR would help a ton with the blow by into the intercooler. Thanks all.
    Now that I have the new fuel filter housing and filter, which should be next? Lift pump or TDC power box programmer. Seems to do the same as the Green Engineering but for $150! Too good to be true?
  • Time for a Timing Belt/ Water pump (100,000 Miles)... We have Jeep dealers in the area but are not experienced with the CDR. Anyone know of a mechanic in or near North Georgia with knowledge of the little Diesel? I’m just not comfortable doing it myself although there are a bunch of articles online!
    Have had no BIG problems with the truck to this point. Did disconnect the EGR and CCV at 30,000 miles. Replaced a CAC hose at 50,000 (split) and front half-shaft(boot torn). Always used Amsoil 15W/45 ( never under 40 degrees where I travel & mostly above 80 Deg) Diesel Oil, 6,000 mile change and add Diesel Kleen most tanks of fuel.
    I really love the liberty and have committed to the expense of the next 100,000 miles. This site has given me a lot of information about the truck and has helped it to be trouble-free. I am not sure I would have purchased the vehicle had I read this forum first!
  • emp2emp2 Posts: 20
    edited September 2012
    Does the TDC programmer change the shift points ? Green Engineering does which will help the increase miles per gallon a lot .
  • tntsectntsec Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
  • Robert Petersen
    8:19 AM (0 minutes ago)

    to noreply

    I used one from a 2003 Ram Diesel and it fit fine.
    I think I switched the float arm from the one I removed from the liberty with the one than came with the Ram.
    The wires for the pump were factory installed in the Liberty, however to access them they are conceiled under the carpet, drivers side passanger floor.
    since the jeep's electrical connector to the unit only has 2 wires, even though it is the correct 4 prong plug, I removed the 2 brass connectors from the Liberty unit I removed and fitted them into the jeeps existing plug so that I had a 4 wire plug.
    If you buy the fuel pump'sender from a junk yard, request the plug and at least 6" of the wire that connects to it. This will make it alot easier.
    You can buy this connector after market, but they want a rediculous amount for it, like $60 or something.
    Make sure your tank is low on fuel to make it easier to lift in and out.

    These pics will help you: berty+fuel+module

    It you go to the LostJeeps forum, there are step by step instructions.

    I think I paid less than $50 for the Dodge unit on EBAY. it is a direct physical fit. It is spring loaded do self adjusting for the height.

    HOpe this is of help: Bob
  • Just traded my 2005 because I couldn't find anyone who knew about it. Only 55K but the timing belt is now 7+ years old. Also kind of disappointed in all the little (not little $$) needed things to make it worthwhile to keep i.e. SEGR Provent, Green diesel chip, extra lift in-tank pump, etc. Could be a great vehicle if you want to be that involved. Hope it finds a good home. Never really had any problems with it. Unhooked the egr/maf at about 20k.
  • It is a not a car for someone who does not want to get involved.
    It is like a Harley, needs some attention but well worth it for those who love the concept. Jeep and the EPA screewed up a really nice car. We just have to reverse what they did.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Posts: 710
    edited October 2012
    Dave in Georgia has a nice ride. Can't tell if it's 4wd with parasitic mopar front axle mpg loss. Bet that egr pollution of the intake doesn't exist. Not providing a direct link but you can find a nice Comanche in the October newsletter at rockauto. I'm sure that there are many examples out there but I don't seem to care about diesels anymore.

    Why do I check in here then you might ask- to check on posts from winter and his saga.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    edited October 2012
    Chrysler probably expect people to forget.

    After 9 years my CRD is still running fine, the body doesn't rust, nothing is torn nor deteriorated due to the dog, carrying bicycles and grandchildren.
    The only leak I had to fix came from the ferrules of the common rail pipes that I removed and re-installed.
    The Provent is still waiting on a shelf, mileage has never been optimal but the engine is peppy, starts as I turn the key and still has the original glow plugs.
    I had the suspensions and wheel alignment checked after a technical inspection and everything was found safe and sound.
    The pollution test done at several engine regimes and accelerations reveals 'lower than minimal' values.

    This 150HP engine was declared 'de-rated' compared to the 163HP version and I still don't understand what 'de-rated' means; could it be a distinction?
  • Hi
    I jusf installed a eco tune from Green Diesel will let you know how it works.
    So far ( No light on the dash,Has been on for months)
    More RPM and quick to start off the stop line.
    Have been off work for a week,so can not tell about the milage so far.
    I do about 100 miles a day.

  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    with mine the eco-tune had little if any effect on miliage, the provent seemed to have a positive effect on miliage and I did it prior to the eco-tune. the eco-tune had a noticeable positive effect on power and does get rid of the check engine light due to the provent.
    My CRD was getting 30+ mpg on the freeway from the day I bought it after disconnecting the maf (or map, I get them confused) sensor.

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    edited November 2012
    My Jeep always averaged 22.5 mpg throughout the year, and 11L/100Km is what the CRD was supposed to do according to our tax(es) calculation.
    I use A/C, 4WD every now and then, give the engine time to warm-up in the winter, drive 130 Km/h all day on the motorway when needed, do service every 15,000 miles with mineral oil and never have anything to worry about; except perhaps to replace it one day.
  • I took great care :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: of my crd . it did ok with nrepairs fot 123,000 miles . Then the motir blue up.
    Nwew motor $5.300. + shipping & then instolation. GET RID OF THAT LIMON ASAP>
  • mine was ok for 123,000 then the motor blue up. Get rid of it quick! :sick:
  • When you say you took "great Care" of it, what changes did you make to the "Stock" CRD?
  • gh1961gh1961 Posts: 30
    THX for all you help uncle bob....traded that 2005 4x4 CRD limited off for the paltry sum of $4500...not been that happy cutting losses in years...knew the day i looked over at the window and saw that mopar symbol that it was a major mistake...good riddance and ya'll have fun on this forum...there is a great need for sure...Chrysler was bankrupt for a reason...even the prettiest and best designed trash is still trash...oh more!!!...when you by a Jeep, get the off-road package; it should include a rental while your Jeep is on the shop rack off the road:)
  • Where then can one take his Liberty for turbo repair in say the Denver area?
  • whitgallmanwhitgallman Posts: 121
    edited November 2012
    Anybody replace the front seats in the 2004 to 2006 Liberty for more comfortable ones? On long road trips the fatigue really sets in. Need more support under my long legs.
    Know of any alternative or aftermarket seats?
  • I placed 1/2" flare nuts under the front seat mounts. That helped. You may need spacers made from pipe to get the height you need. Can't put your arm out the window very well, though.
  • "I use A/C, 4WD every now and then, give the engine time to warm-up in the winter, drive 130 Km/h all day on the motorway when needed, do service every 15,000 miles with mineral oil and never have anything to worry about; except perhaps to replace it one day."

    Mineral oil? Have I been wasting money using the 0 to 40 multigrade Mobil 1 oil? As soon as I pour it in and turn her over, the honey color is gone. I've wondered about the necessity of using this expensive oil. With a good battery, this oil lets her turn over good on cold Winter days. Shouldn't really good oil be used because it has a turbo? I change much less than 15,000 miles.
  • I use nothing but Delvac 1300. Change every 2000 as I do in my 12 year old 7.3. Both are strong as ever. The F37 torque crap, from Chrysler did lower my mileage 10 mpg, though.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    edited December 2012
    I have no authority to tell you what you should do but I used 15W40 (Shell mineral), 10W40 (no-name semi-synthetic), 5W40 (Yacco synthetic), Mann air filter (off-road only in the US), K&N air filter since 6 years, Mann oil filter...
    My service intervals are planned every 25,000 Km when its sunny and dry in my back yard ;)

    All transmission fluids are there since day one, I only replaced power steering fluid because it was as black as ink. The cooling fluid has not been changed and still doesn't need topping after 9 winters.
    Some folks claim they change their fluids very often, I don't but I keep an eye on all levels and find it boring in the end :sick:
    Next year I plan to replace all fluids and water pump, for its 10th anniversary...
    I add less than a quart of oil between services and still have the original glow plugs. If oil quality was critical, I should be on my 3rd engine after 10 years.
  • fustfust Posts: 29
    My 2005 jeep diesel reads cold and never really warms up so I suspect a faulty thermostat, but my real question would a faulty thermostat which keeps the engine cold most of the time have a hugh impact on mileage.Mileage has dropped from about 28mpg to 19mpg in the last couple of months and wondering if because the engine runs cold would this be a contributing factor, any comments appreciated.
  • Yes, it will impact your MPG.
    It's most efficient when the needle is straight up.
    The Thermostat is expensive, $100+, it is built into it's own housing and replaced as a Unit.
    There was a guy on the "LostJeeps" forum who is a backyard machinist and would re-fabricate yours if you send it to him (He had a few spares for a fast exchange). He made them so that in the future it could be replaced with a standard $10 thermostat. He was charging around $100 as well.

    Hope this helps: Bob
Sign In or Register to comment.