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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • Thanks, Uncle Bob. The transmission fluid was fine, and the problem seemed to go away after I checked. I think the transmission dip stick had not been seated properly. Maybe that let the pressure or vacuum vary too much? Surprising!
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi,
    I would check the reverse clutch control(s), ie the specific solenoid valve(s) and wiring. Fluid level if incriminated applies to all gears. My dip-stick is often 1" above its seated position and this does not affect my transmission.
  • I put about 1,000 miles on the Jeep last weekend. Mileage is usually about 23, but last weekend it computed about 30 something. Is it possible that the Jeep gets much better mileage about 70 mph? I was told that is when the EGR valve stops blowing crap into the engine. Is it at the apex of the power curve at this speed? It ran well. I have over 100k miles on the machine. I'm still wondering about getting the tune to get better mileage and keep the EGR valve shut. (Green Diesel)

    What problems? brakes, fuel injectors, mice chewin' on the wires, batteries goin' dead in cold weather, bad seals, EGR valve, wheel bearing and rear differential. I try to change oil every 3,000 miles, but it usually is about 5,000 before I get to it. Parking brakes are gone. I'm on my second set of tires and still have good tread. How long do they last? ;)

    I hope to make it to 10 years with the beast.
  • unclebob9unclebob9 Posts: 103
    on mine the overhead computer is about 4 mpg on the high side.
    Put on a provent system (or you can make your own version) this gets alot of the crapy old oil out of the intake system. On my 06, I was already getting 30+ on the hwyway, the GD eco tune, did not seem to improve my MPG, but it did give me more power.
    all around I am getting 26 to 27 mpg, on long trips I get 30-32 mpg.
    bob
  • Uncle Bob wrote:

    Put on a provent system (or you can make your own version) this gets alot of the crapy old oil out of the intake system.

    I think I should try that. This vehicle turns good oil into liquid dirt in short order. There is a video on U-Tube showing one how to do this.

    A while back I had the ceramic glow plugs replaced with steel glow plugs. They reflashed the computer at that time and it seems as though my mileage dropped. Is that possible? Then I wonder if the green diesel tune would bring the mileage back up :confuse:
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354

    10 years already ...
    I was recently informed that after 10 years Jeep parts (brakes and chassis) are no longer stored when not simply declared unavailable!
    In the EU Jeeps were sold (and powered) by Renault then came Chrysler and Daimler now Fiat.
    Changing partnerships created a dilution of competence because pros can't afford time to learn hidden details of each manufacturer.

    To make it short I had to wait 2 weeks for original brake parts and after one month my structural element hasn't arrived yet.

    This should be another Happy New Year for CRD owners, I hope ;)

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354

    @caribou1 said:
    10 years already ...
    I was recently informed that after 10 years Jeep parts (brakes and chassis) are no longer stored when not simply declared unavailable!
    In the EU Jeeps were sold (and powered) by Renault then came Chrysler and Daimler now Fiat.
    Changing partnerships created a dilution of competence because pros can't afford time to learn hidden details of each manufacturer.

    To make it short I had to wait 2 weeks for original brake parts and after one month my structural element hasn't arrived yet.

    This should be another Happy New Year for CRD owners, I hope ;)

    After 5 weeks of uncertainty and total absence of support, the body shop finally used sheet metal to form my right door frame.

  • willysjeepwillysjeep Posts: 107

    Caribou:

    I'm right behind you with 9 years. Maybe, I'll finally get the Green Diesel tune this year and install the ProVent. I hope Fiat keeps supporting thiis vehicle. It does have an Italian engine so I'm hoping there is some kind of loyalty there.

    You know - The door frame and brakes should be the same as a gas Jeep. There's still beau coup Jeep Liberty's running down the road. Parts should be available! You'd think the local junk yard would have had that door part. (Maybe - They don't have junk yards in France.)

    Yah - I hope it's a good year for Jeep Liberty diesel owners. The tenth year may be my last. I want higher mileage.

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354

    @willysjeep said:
    (Maybe - They don't have junk yards in France.)

    We have fewer junk yards nowadays, scrap metals are recycled rapidly and Eastern Europe is absorbing the recent and better quality second-hand vehicles. Jeep Liberty trucks (and competitors) are sanctioned by a 6,000 Euro "ECO" or "Welcome" tax at the time of purchase.
    I am refurbishing mine after 11 years of ownership because I have never found an equivalent.
    My Provent still sits in my garage because the oil fume separator that came with the engine works perfectly.

    My original (Optima) battery lasted 5 years; the replacement battery (Johnson Controls) lasted 6 years. Now I fitted a (Banner) AGM battery that needed trimming of the longitudinal clamping 'protrusions/feet' plus milling of the battery tray designed for coiled cells.
    After all these years I lost my radio code and Jeep dealership wants to charge $100 to unlock a $50 radio.
    Guess what ;)

  • elder2elder2 Posts: 17

    Hi all. Replaced the timing belt, idler pulleys, tensioner, and water pump last summer at 100K miles by myself. Info on internet was most helpful, but it was still a difficult job. CRD runs great, but unfortunately, the Crown (brand) water pump failed at 114K. The timing belt was real loose and coolant leaked real fast. It was only a miricale the t-belt didn't slip and ruin the engine. I'm visiting CA, from WI, so I ordered a new w-pump & a thermostat, which had failed open a couple of K ago. I wire tied the T-belt to the crank pulley, Injector pump, and cam pulleys to preserve the timing. I cut the ear of the back timing cover off with a dremel, so I needn't remove the cam pulleys and avoided that involved procedure as the tools were back in Wis. The screws on the front cover hold the cut back piece in position. I used JB Weld to fill the cuts and stabilize that back cover piece in front of the water pump. Runs great with an OEM water pump, looking for 200K+.

  • Steve EliasSteve Elias Posts: 2,181

    wow, elder2, nice job, that is very mcguyver of you.

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354

    Our local Bio-diesel distillery ceased it's activity, declared bankruptcy and left a contaminated industrial site to those who had faith in recycling waste oil.

    Do you have a similar situation in the US?

  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    It has been a very long time since I posted here. The saga with the Jeep comes to an end later this week. The wife and I have tried multiple avenues to try and resolve this matter and all have led to a dead end. We are sending the Jeep to the junk yard for scrap and that is the end of that.

    The wife and I are done with Chrysler and are satisfied with our Ford and Subaru products. I would have loved to have had that thing repaired but it was not to be. The treatment we received from Chrysler and the dealer in Florida have totally soured us toward anything Chrysler.

    Caribou, I have a bit of feedback for you on your brake issue. Why use OEM parts? There are many good after market parts providers for Jeep that offer OEM and better quality parts for the Jeep. I used a good number of them on the Jeep including slotted and cross drilled rotors with Hawk disc brake pads.

    Good luck to all of you.
  • elder2elder2 Posts: 17
    Good Luck to you Winter2. I don't like trusting my vehicles to dealers. I'm lucky to be able to do my own repairs. The CRD has been the most difficult of all. I've just added a lift pump after another episode of fuel starvation. As others have said, the idle is smoother and quieter, starts on 1st turn of the key, and no more fuel starvation on hard acceleration. I just changed the struts and shocks. Shocks were easy, struts were not. I have had good success with Ford vehicles (5 since 1995) and one subaru that went 300k miles. I'm about to buy the 4th set of tires, so I hope the jeep keeps going. If I can get it to +200k miles, I'll be happy.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    winter2 said:

    Why use OEM parts? There are many good after market parts providers for Jeep that offer OEM and better quality parts for the Jeep.

    Hi winter2,
    In the EU there are few opportunities to obtain rebates, you only get what you pay for i.e. maximum public prices are applied everywhere to collect VAT (including on the cost of labor). In the past I used after market parts and my experience over the long term is when you keep your vehicle you will have less worries and be financially even with OEM parts. Now when you sell your old vehicle equipped with original parts this is a sign of confidence.
    This year I tried TOYO Open Country A/T tires (225/75 R16) and found them excellent on dry pavement. I still have to find winter tires for severe weather conditions and deep snow; I fear none can beat the BFG A/T to get out of a parking spot once the snow plow covered half of the vehicle :D
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Elder and Caribou,

    Best of luck with your respective Libertys. Elder, the addition of a lift pump is a great idea and one should have been built onto the Jeep in the first place. Caribou, we tried Toyo high performance tires on my wife's last Chrysler. They were okay but bouncy when compared to the Pirelli tires they replaced. The issue with the VAT, well that is a problem. There has been talk of a VAT here in the U.S. from time to time and that is as far as it has gotten. Any attempt to implement a VAT here would more than likely lead to a mass lynching of Congress and the President. I would be one of the participants. :) I have found that most after market parts were as good and in some cases superior to the OEM parts and usually for less money.

    I miss the Jeep at times still, especially all of that luscious torque. The Subaru is a decent car that could use a diesel. The four banger is adequate and the CVT helps make the most out of what the engine has to offer. Fuel economy is equivalent to the CRD. I know Subaru makes a diesel that is sold in the EU but we will not ever see it here in the United States. Great fuel saving technology like that is frowned upon here. I did consider a VW TDI but after doing some research concluded that the crankcase was too small. Had the crankcase held 50% more oil, I would have purchased a VW TDI in lieu of the Subaru.
  • Winter2, sorry to read that after four years the CRD went to the scrap yard since you tried so hard to care for it. I remember you calling Motori about oil and possibly the weak torque converter. 

    Better_half's hand me down H3 just became a base Escape only add was ford window tinting already on it while my rubicon became a GX 460 for her. 

    Almost ten thousand miles on the escape in four months. One oil change by me at less than four thousand miles. The seats are comfortable and lifetime average of over twenty four miles per gallon. Fun to drive - miss the crd - no. Another mopar vehicle - never. 

    Happy Holidays to you. 
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Posts: 107
    Looks like these posts have come to an end. I still have my 2005 Jeep Liberty Diesel. It's been 10 years. I have not had the same success that I had with my Dodge Dakota truck which I kept 12 years. I put new tires on it about 1500 miles ago, did the brakes, changed the belt and the fuel filter. I am thinking about getting rid of it. I have never found a satisfactory solution to the EGR valve. This was a flaw in this vehicle. The mileage isn't that great and diesel fuel almost always costs more. It hasn't been a comfortable car to drive. It eats batteries every three years or so. Despite the lower fuel prices that we currently see, I long for 40 miles per gallon. I have lived in an area that gets lots of snow. I have never got stuck with it, but 4 wheel drive vehicles get lousy mileage. Did I have the last word?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Yep. :)
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354

    Did I have the last word?

    Not yet :D

    I received a recall (from FIAT France / JEEP) saying there is a weak spot in the rear structure of my truck. Why not? After 12 years of flawless service FIAT thinks it's time for another round of buns and coffee.
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Posts: 107
    Part of the lyrics in an old Doors tune goes, "This is the End. This is the End, my friend." This is the end. I had injector problems and had them repaired at the dealer. It was expensive. I had enough. After 10+ years, the Jeep and I have parted ways. I now own a small used Ford.

    I believe this car was a failed experiment on the part of Daimler Chrysler. (Now Fiat Chrysler?)

    Too many problems. For my needs it was a mistake. A wise mechanic told me that a diesel car will cost you more up front and more for maintenance and repair. The Jeep convinced me he was right. Parts for the engine are very high. The mileage is not as good as a non 4 wheel drive vehicle. Too many idiosyncrasies. Unless you are an ace mechanic, I would not purchase one of these.

    Good luck to you all,........adios.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Thanks for posting - and thanks for being an early adopter. Good luck with the Ford!
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354



    I believe this car was a failed experiment on the part of Daimler Chrysler.

    I still have the 150HP Euro-3 prototype of the US model considered "de-rated" by a few posters. After 13 years of flawless service the little CRD easily passes pollution inspection, needed two batteries and one alternator, starts promptly with the original injectors and glow plugs during the winter. I have new disks front and rear. The body doesn't show any rust because it came with a proper corrosion protection. Chrysler gave a 12 year warranty against perforation by corrosion if I remember correctly.

    I must fully agree with you willysjeep, it was quite an unfortunate marketing decision to "push" the performance of this robust engine not considering it could make it less reliable and that it could induce automatic transmission failures in the simplistic view of optimizing the use of it's torque.

    Good luck with your Ford ;)
  • elder2elder2 Posts: 17
    edited July 2015
    I agree that CRDs are not for everyone and because they seem to be a Jeep engineering experiment they have more issues then most diesel vechicals and that means expensive repairs. I've done everything myself so far and it has been alot more than on any car I've owned, and being 69 yrs old and a gearhead, thats been many cars and trucks, all of them gas. I live in a diesel powered RV, and it has been trouble free in 80k miles. That's the way a good diesel should run and for many more miles than a gaser. Anyhow, awhile ago the CRD started to surge on full acceleration. I saw the boost gauge go to 20 psi and to 15 psi and back to 20, down to 15 etc. I checked the turbo hoses & clamps and they were good and tight, These were the original hoses at 120k. I thought that they were either balloning or had a crack or hole opening under pressure. I replaced them with Mishimoto hi-performance hoses from Amazon for about $130. Problem solved and both response and MPGs are improved. I recently towed a double axle car trailer to pickup a 1965 Ford Thunderbird for a friend. No problem, lots of torque. Lets see another SUV in the Libertys class do that. If the CRD had been done right, it could have been much more popular and more of them would have been built. I belive Jeep lost money on the recalls and lost a bunch of repeat customers. I plan to run my CRD for as long as I can fix it at reasonable cost. It has been an experience so far for 10 Yrs. Thanks for letting me put my 2 cents. in.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Hi all,
    Has anyone replaced the timing belt, water pump and tensioner pulley on the CRD?
    I would like to know which tooling works best for setting the timing positions.
    I'm thinking of the Bates timing kit "gat4945a" offered on Ebay.
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