Tacoma Lift Kits
I am looking for any information on lift kits for the Tacoma.
I have a 2001 DoubleCab TRD 4WD and I am looking forward to the 6" lift kit from Fabtech in May.
Please post any experience with other kits, oversize tires, etc.
I have a 2001 DoubleCab TRD 4WD and I am looking forward to the 6" lift kit from Fabtech in May.
Please post any experience with other kits, oversize tires, etc.
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But here's a quick rundown:
1. Spacer lifts. There are numerous ones in existance, that work by simply inserting a spacer between the coil and topplate of the strut assembly. By compressing the coil, you get extra lift out of it. Most lift you can get out of it is about 3.5", due to limitations of CV axles and balljoints. THere are several companies that make those, but they charge too much. There are 2 TTORA members that make them for the club, they sell for $130/2 spacers. You'll also need longer shocks.
2. Replacement coil lift. This is made by OME (in Land Down Under), and distributed through ARB. They are replacement coils for your truck, and are designed to accomodate the front end for extra weight of ARB bullbars and bumpers. If you don't have a bullbar or a bumper, you get decent lift in the front. There are 3 coils, 880 (no lift, just replacement coil), 881 for 1.5-2" and 882 for 3.5-3". For a DC, you'll get 1.5" and 3" respectively. The coils themselves sell for $130/pair, but you also need a set of OME struts, so total for that is about $350.
3. Diff-drop lifts. The lifts included in this category are Rancho 4" lift, TrailMaster 6" and new upcoming Fabtech 6". These work by removing the crossmember that houses the front differential and dropping it down by X inches. The end-result is that the body of the truck sits X inches higher , CV angles are the same, balljoint angles are also the same. You do not really gain extra clearance in the front, b/c your diff still has the same clearance as before, but the body is lifted, so you get better entrance/exit angles.
I think it's also possible to add a spacer/coil replacement lift on top of these lifts. These kits go for $1300-$1500.
Tire clearance:
Stock-height Tacoma will wear 31s on a 7" rim without problems.
8" rim requires mild mods to eliminate rubbing.
3" Tacoma will clear 32s on 7" rims, and 8" rim requires rubbing modifications.
6" Tacoma will clear 33s on 8" rims. 10" rims will require mods (and you shouldn't run 10" rims anyway, too much stress on steering).
So to clear 33s you need to put a 3" suspension lift, and you can add a 3" body lift. If you go with 35s, you'll need a TM lift and a 3" body lift.
The only main downside to bigger tires is having to regear. I think auto DCs come with 4.10 gears which is fine for 31s and 32s, but with 33s you will notice decrease in power, and will need to regear to 4.88s which will cost $500.
A 31x10.5R15 on 15x8 rim requires about 2-3" of lift.
32x11.5 on 8" rim requires 4" or so, there are things that can be done (bang the pinchweld in and trim the fender slightly) to make it clear with 3".
What tires/rims do you want to go with?
.5" add-a-leaf in the rear, 2" lift (OME 881 coils) upfront. 31x10.5R15 tires on 15x7 Outlaw II rims (which DO NOT fit. I bought these rims cheap off another member and discovered that front drivers rim did not clear the brake caliper.....all 2001+ Toys come with ABS calipers, but some don't have an ABS control module, obviously. The rim used to rub, but now the caliper has ground the rim down a little so it clears).
In about 1-2 weeks I'm buying 15x8 rims that clear calipers, and putting on OME 882s for 3.5" of lift. To save my CVs from ripping apart weekly I'm going to drop the diff by about an 1" (Undo the bolts that hold front of the front diff, insert a small 1" spacer between the x-member and the diff, and use longer bolts. It drops down the diff by about 1", which in turn drops the inner CV point down by 1" and therefore your total lift is now 3.5"-1"=2.5", as far as your CV axles are concerned.
I dont know it you'll be able to clear 32s...maybe with the right backspacing on the rims, but from what I've been able to gather, you need at least 2" upfront. It will probably rub with 881s, and if it does, just buy 882s and sell 881s, you'll come out pretty much even.
I really like the Mickey Thompson Classic II wheel, but I haven't decided on a tire. I like Interco's tires, but I might have to go with something with a longer life span as I have to do alot of pavement driving, (maybe a Goodyear or BFG). It will all come down to money in the end. This stuff is soo expensive.
What type of gearing would you recommend for a 35" tire?
http://www.ttora-ne.com/newsite/main.htm , under tire section they have tire ratio calculators.
It may be easier if you buy 15 inch rims (but be careful, majority of 15" rims do not fit the 2001+ trucks b/c we got large ABS calipers even if you don't have ABS). R15 tires a lot cheaper than R16 ones, and in fact, I believe MT Classic II 15x8 rims will fit without rubbing on calipers.
Interco makes nice tires, but with 40K prorated warranty, they aren't exactly going to live long. Go for BFG MT KMs or something like that. I know Superswampers look kick-butt and are actually cheaper than BFG KMs, but BFGs will last longer and be less noisy onroad.
For 35s you'll need 4.88 gears. You ought to be able to fit 35s with just a 6" suspension lift and maybe a small 1-2" body lift, without having to cut the bumper.