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Synthetic Oil Alternative



  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    Don't do this again, as YOU'RE the one with the attitude:

    "Zuelmyster and their pea-brain"

    Again, I've forgotten more about cars than you'll ever know.
  • pmoskalpmoskal Posts: 25
    Don't do what must now be seeing things now in addition to forgetting so much.

    Actually you are the one with the attitude. Oh, I'm so looking up at you that you've forgotten more that I'll ever know. Did someone hit you over the head that you have forgotten so much.

    Do you have anything smart to say, ...if so can you say something smart & offer an experience in this thread on synthetics. I challenge you. You say you have so much experience, wow, but like you said you've forgotten it. It's tough to offer any viable input if you have none.
     What's your purpose in this discussion thread...I just read through it and you've offered zero input. You probably just like to enter 1 sentence entries that say that you've forgotten more than others will ever know. If you've forgotten so much then exit stage left. Oh, actually good luck to you, maybe one day you'll remember a little scrap of information that you can share with the readers.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Can you guys quit acting like little kids around here?
  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    Kidding.....I'm off to my room.
  • luckylouluckylou Posts: 308
    I have enjoy reading this board , with so many different points of view. That is why I need your advice in synthetic oils.
    1st What is the difference between Mobil1 and Castrol Full Synthetic sold at Toyota dealerships ?
    2nd My wife and I purchased three weeks ago new 2003 Toyota Land Cruiser, we got now about 1300 miles on it but at 5000 miles it goes to the dealer for a lube job. I would like to use the Castrol Full Synthetic but I am not familiar with this brand except a few years ago Castrol was putting parafin in their oils is that still the practice ?
    I would like to hear from all you guys and your expertise.
    Thanks ahead of time.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,593
    There are alot of statements that you make that are misleading and not totally correct.

    when it comes to the final discovery that in fact fully synthetic oil (I prefer Mobil One) as the oil to BEGIN an engines life no matter what brand is the RIGHT thing to do. I feel my having done this and proven it's viability with the last 5 cars and exceeding a quarter million miles with each car proof enough for me and may that have followed my advice.
    5 cars? That many?
    Ok, I have dealt with hundreds of vehicles, some going into the 400,000 mile range on standard off the shelf Chevron oil.

    I'll be glad to let you all know as time goes on how wonderful my new Avalon XLS runs as it so called "breaks in" LOL.
    Understand that there are many other variables to a good break-in other than the oil. Preference has been for standard (organic) oil for breakin, as it allows the rings to initially wear to your driving or common use.

    It already runs as smooth as a babys butt, and you can't tell it's even on at idle. It runs like a raped ape and still get's 31mpg so far at 80mph on the open freeway to date.
    Funny, what state has an 80 mph speed limit?
    And how exactly does a raped ape run? As far as I know, even a fast ape is comparably slow.

    I have NO doubt that by then it will have proven that using the Mobil One from the start has born out some wonderful advantages.
    It won't prove anything, other than the fact that it works for you.

    By the way I now have 1100 miles on it and the oil is still that brand new very light almost transparent honey color....can you say CLEAN?
    Or maybe it isn't doing its job??
    Part of the job of oil is to clean the contaminates out of the engine. If it doesn't suspend it in the oil, then it isn't picking it up and carrying it to the filter or pan.
    Personally, I get a little concerned if there are high miles on any oil and it shows no sign of use.

    Now, you can go on about how me or anyone else knows nothing all you want.
    For those who comment about how race cars use certain oils, that isn't a very good comparison, as those engines see high pressures and rpms.
    Unless you are running your engine at those rpms, which if you are I hope not on the streets my family drives, then there really isn't any comparison. If you want to spend the money on synthetic and additives, then there is nothing wrong with that and nothing wrong with running synthetic, but I agree on the breakin part.

    To chastise or bad-mouth folks for using organic oil is wrong, plain and simple, not to mention the fact that your language needs a little cleanup.
  • tbonertboner Posts: 402
    Very good points. Another one about the "Oils Racers Use" they probably contain a very different set of additives formulated for track use, and probably not more than 500-750 miles.

    Motor oils for passenger cars have additive packs suited for 3K+ between oil changes.

    I'd say in some respectes, a motor oil used for racing has an easier life, as it probably isn't heated and cooled repeatedly or subject to short trip driving, etc.

    Heck, many top fuel funny cars tear down the engines after each run, so what do they do but go about 1 mile between oil changes, maybe?

    Nope, using what the racers use really isn't important to me, and probably isn't a great idea for your street driven car.

  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    The only full synthetic that Castrol makes is their European 0W30 oil I believe. Everything else that they label synthetic (Syntec) is a hydrocracked petroleum oil that is marketed as synthetic.

    IMO Mobil 1 for an over the counter synthetic oil is the only way to go. You can go better but for most people the shipping etc. is not worth the hassle.

    As to the racing oils, they do not have the same additive packages for normal street use and would probably result in more wear then a conventional brand's regular oil. Stay away from racing oil unless you are going to be changing it very frequently
  • pmoskalpmoskal Posts: 25
    Thank you 0patience...this is the type of input I'm sure we were all looking for.
    -For break-ins use standard oil...I could not agree more.
    -Synthetic is not the be-all and a end-all
    - I like your example on the 400,000 mile using Chevron oil. This is reality. I said it before and I'll say it again...use synthetic if you want to give money to the oil companies.
  • luckylouluckylou Posts: 308
    Thanks to Opatience , Armtdm, Tboner and Pmoskal for your advice.
    Right now the new LC is running as "smooth as a baby's butt " which whatever oil comes from the factory.
    I will ask the dealer to continue using the same oil every time the LC goes for a lube job every 5k miles.
     Thanks again .
  • ethomas4ethomas4 Posts: 10
    Most of the race oils be it Synthetic Or Mineral based that are available today are actually more than adequate for street use.

    Take Valvoline VR-1 10/30 for example with over 2 thousand PPM of calcium " detergent " and around 300 parts per million of Magnesium " detergent/dispersent " and low sulphated ash formulated to boot. The problem with some of these dino race oils is they are not available in the correct viscosity for some applications.

    Now most of the blended Tri-Synthetics are a different story. Most are available from 20wt on up.Not all race oils are suitable for street use but the majority are. These are for the most part overkill but not engine life threatening.
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