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Maintenance & Repair Costs



  • mean this is not being judged for Creativity Writing Skills and FANTASTIC Humor...???? hmmm

    Since you are more equipped with Knowledge and Experience I will gladly let you catagorize accordingly.

    Please feel free to email me at

    Thank you
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Okay Uzi....WHATEVER..... :P

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  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I've read bigger whoppers on here.

    A fellow worker also drove a Chevy for several years where you could look thru a hole under his feet to the road. Of course, this car did have a full frame.

    Same guy also didn't do any filter maintenance on his home furnance. It got so dirty and stopped the normal flow of air that the fan pulled the flame off the burner and out the front of the furnance, fortunately burning up all the wiring and shutting inself down before setting the house on fire.

    Another fellow worker didn't quite understand the need for filter maintenance on his auto, and after who know how many miles, the filter totally blew off the car.

    People otherwise pretty smart do stupid things, especially with their autos.

    P.S. I agree, try to find a salvage auto without a motor and do a transplant. Or sell this one for salvage. Or, try to find a very good welder that will take on the job constructing and welding in new floor pans, both side, front and rear. When people do restorations of 'classic' cars, repairs like this are done all the time.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Yeah but you could buy a 1988 Honda body from a wrecking yard for dirt cheap. You could buy an entire running 1988 Honda for dirt cheap.

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  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,441
    A few decades ago I had one of those Flintstone cars you speak of. Just get the appropriate size'd piece of sheet metal and liquid nails the thing down. Throw a floor mat over top... good as new.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Too freaky with a heavily rusted unibody. I've seen them break in HALF in a collision.

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  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Is there any reason not to expect any other 20 year old Civic to be rusting away, as well?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Depends where you live I guess.

    I think any 20 year old car should be checked for structural problems, especially cracking in areas near suspension anchoring points. Automakers never intended for modern cars to last 20 years and as a rule they don't percentage-wise get even close to that.

    I'd include a safety check as part of the maintenance of any car that old--visually, and giving it a "nut and bolt" as we say---tightening and testing every fastener in sight.

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  • I moved my car this morning and a piece of metal attached to a rope got caught under the top of hood. Unfortunately, I did not notice it and pulled out the driveway. The damage can be seen in these pictures. Any advice on the best way to go about fixing it? Maybe even a DIY? Hopefully so I do not have to pay for a brand new hood. I am not too concerned with it being perfect, but I would like to get it somewhat back to normal.

    Any advice is much appreciated

    front view

    side view
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,316
    Those pictures don't show up. The links are to They request a signin.

    You could put the pictures on a picture hosting forum such as (free accounts) and link to them here. Or you can put the pictures onto your carspace account here on edmunds (upper left corner of the page has a link to "MyCarspace") and link to them in a post.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Looks like anything you do now will make it look worse than it is. Doesn't look bad enough to require the hood to be replaced. I'd take it to three shops and see what the price is to fix it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    I'd say the hood has to come off, straightened and totally repainted. Blending in a hood is tricky business and it doesn't look like they can "work" it since it's so close to the windshield.

    This will not be a cheap repair.

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  • mossamossa Posts: 4
    I had 2001 highlander,lately the A/C stopped working, to fix it they ask for $700 dollars. Would help me out guys thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Depends on what's wrong. If it just has a leak and needs a recharge, that's too much money. Even if you need a new dryer, that's $55 bucks + 2 hours labor + testing + new refrigerant...still doesn't come out to $700. What components are they suggesting you replace here?

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  • mossamossa Posts: 4
    Thanks,Mr Shiftright.
    They are sug gestind to replace the whole A/C systeme,is there any solution?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    They couldn't replace the "whole system" for $700, so that can't be right.

    The main components are


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  • mossamossa Posts: 4
    What are you suggesting in my case to do?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Have them write you out an estimate of all the work they plan to do, and the charges and post them here.

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  • mossamossa Posts: 4
    I have made same researche and i found out the probleme is the compressor,so how much you think it's going cost.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Looks like $475 + 2 hours labor plus cost to fill the system (refrigerant + labor).

    So yeah, we are getting close to $700 here. But I'm concerned they aren't putting in a new receiver/dryer.

    did your compressor SEIZE or just got noisy?

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  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,094
    A reporter from a large financial newspaper would like to speak to consumers who are holding onto their cars or deferring purchasing a car because of economic downturn. Please respond to with your daytime contact information no later than Friday, January 30, 2009.

    Edmunds Manager UGC Click on my screen name to send a personal message. Need help navigating? Check out Getting Started in Edmunds Forums.
    Need help picking out a make/model, finding inventory, or advice on pricing? Talk to an Edmunds Car Shopping Advisor

  • Hello, I have a 1998 Infiniti QX4 3.3 liter engine. I took my SUV into the shop to have the timing belt changed. They had to disconnect an A/C line that was in the way of the timing belt cover. When they were done they said they did an evac/recharge. The day it came back there were green drips under the compressor, which got progressively worse, and now (couple weeks later) the A/C is not blowing cold. I took a look at the A/C line that they disconnected when the SUV came back and I didn’t see any green leaks at the connections. All the drips were coming from underneath the compressor (looked pretty bad/lots of drips). Do you think they could have caused this or do you think it’s just a coincidence? The A/C was working fine for over a year until the day they just touched the car. About a year ago the evap core, condensor, drier, and Xvalve were changed. It was flushed and they did a evac/recharge. But now after the timing belt change, the compressor is leaking where it never was before. Do you think they could have over charged the A/C which caused the compressor seals to leak? Or do you think leaving the system open for a few days caused this? These guys do not specialise in A/C work like the shop that did the A/C work a year ago. Thanks in advance for all your help; I really do appreciate your time.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    That sounds more likely to be a coolant leak, not an AC compressor problem, but hard to say not being there. I'd get the car up on a lift and see what's what. I"m trying to think what's "green" that could come out of a compressor? Not enough experience with AC to say for certain but it doesn't sound right.

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  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I've seen dyes used for leak detection to be a fluorescent green almost similar to coolant.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    The repair shop R & R'd the EGR sensor/valve recently, but the OBD II says it is a bad one. The parts supplier will replace the bad one, but the labor to redo is on me. Should not the part manufacturer be responsible for the labor expense of replacing one of their faulty parts?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    First off, usually no. Supplier warranties usually only cover the part they supply. Secondly, just because OBD II says the part is bad doesn't mean it is. OBD II is only reporting that the sensor has detected a problem with that part, which could be caused by something external to it.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Makes sense to me. Thank you.

    I thought the OBD II was more definite than that because the mechanic cleaned the EGR passages when he installed the EGR Pressure Sensor.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Hi Burdawg: You may be right, but I'm optimistic & this is what I sent.

    CSK Auto, Inc.
    Corporate Headquarters
    645 East Missouri Avenue
    Suite 400
    Phoenix, Arizona 85012

    Attn: Warranty Claim Dept.

    Yesterday, my mechanic had to replace one of your EGR POS. Sensors on warrantee.

    I was charged and paid him $75.27 for his labor and am now petitioning you to reimburse that expense to me caused by your faulty part.

    Please send your check in the amount of $75.27 to me as follows:

    Encl: Repair Order #8599 &
    Visa payment copy
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    A LOT of the after market part houses give warrantees on most of the major parts they sell, new and rebuilt parts. These usually are in the time period of 90 days to 1 year. For a few dollars more, many of these can be extended to a 'lifetime' warrantee.

    I have NEVER seen one of these warrantees cover the labor of installation.
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