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Trade in/sell my 2013 Outback Limited for a 2008 Outback?
subarusforlife
Member Posts: 2
Thanks for reading - I have a 2013 Outback with approx 40k miles. There is a 2008 outback 68k miles that I was looking at. I can afford my 2013 car payments but I'd really like to save some money. I'll take the 2008 outback to my local mechanic. It is listed for $12,999.
Should I sell my outback myself and buy the 2008? I'd hate to save money just to turn around and spends lots of $ on repairs for the '08, I had a 2005 outback that lasted 225k miles that I traded in when I got my 2013. Only thing is I love my '13 body style.
Any suggestions are appreciated!
Should I sell my outback myself and buy the 2008? I'd hate to save money just to turn around and spends lots of $ on repairs for the '08, I had a 2005 outback that lasted 225k miles that I traded in when I got my 2013. Only thing is I love my '13 body style.
Any suggestions are appreciated!
0
Comments
I'm not advocating any specific course of action, just getting you to think beyond just the financial aspect of this.
I'll get some Subaru experts to chime in as well....
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I certainly can't blame you for considering going from a gen-4 Outback to a gen-3 as far as the looks of the vehicle go! The 10-14 Outbacks are just so darn ugly (as opposed to the 05-09 generation, which was a real stunner). But.... then there's the whole issue of interior space and long-term engine reliability, in which the gen-4 wins hands-down!
So, you have quite a decision to make. I'm not sure whether you had to replace head gaskets on your '05 that went to 225K, but, if you didn't, then count yourself fortunate! You may not have the same fortune with the '08. 68,000 miles are few enough that the problem, if present, may not be fully manifested. So have your mechanic check that aspect quite carefully. A used oil analysis may not be out of the question here (just to check for fractional presence of coolant in the oil) if you really want to hedge your bets. Also, consider that at 68K the car probably needs new struts but the OEMs may not be "gone enough" to really seem bad right now.
On the one hand, you will save funds out of pocket (e.g., no more loan on the '13 and, depending on your equity, maybe even walk away with cash in your pocket). On the other hand, you do have to consider that you lose 28,000 miles (not many, all things considered), space, and a warranty.
If you play it right, this is a good financial decision. You will save money, even in the long term, unless that '08 turns out to be a lemon.
So, your thought process isn't an unprecedented sort of crazy.
You might find that with the 2008, you'll have a shorter term and higher interest rate.. yes, cheaper over time, but it might not help your cash flow (and, as noted, all of the potential repair bills).
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For your '13, you'd be looking at $22k to maybe $23k private party.
1. Selling a $20k+ car private party is difficult enough, then add on the fact that you owe money on it and it is simply a headache.
2. You have paid tax on your 2013 that you are flushing down the toilet, then paying tax again on the '08. Take that into consideration.
So, possibly half the money for a car that's 3 times the age. I guess I could see the argument either way. I'd also like to point out that the timing belt service has likely not been done on the '08 because it hasn't hit the required mileage yet; however, I'm a strong believer in not letting it go past 5 years, regardless of miles. You are trusting your engine to a piece of rubber, after all. The interval calls for 105k miles or 8 years, anyway, so its almost due by anybody's calculation.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S