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GMC Yukon and Yukon Denali Problems



  • rfieryrfiery Posts: 1
    Had to replace front differential. Vehicle was only serviced by GM dealer and I told them on two ocassions there was a noise in the car. After the car was out of warranty the noise got worse. I went to AAMCO and they replaced the front differential and the vehicle is quiter than when the car was brand new, AAmco said there was hardly any oil in the case. GM paid for 75% of my cost and was just told my rear differential is leaking. This vehicle is kept in a garage and there is not one drop of oil on the floor. Could this be a factory goof? Whoever changes your oil insist they check both differentials and the transfer case and have it noted on your work order. Also had a $600.00 transmission repair when just out of warranty

    Vehicle was only serviced by GM garage and I complained about noise on two different ocassions
  • I had a similar problem with my 2004 yukon denali xl. It died 4 times in the first 6 months of owning it. It was in and out of the dealership with all kinds of repairs, reprogramming and replacements in addition to an examination by a special GMC engineer. Even he couldn't determine the cause of the problem. I finally wrote a letter to Rick Wagoner since I was getting nowhere. After that, the dealership conveniently determined that the problem was caused by the aftermarket DVD player that was installed (at their recommended shop). I was so fed up, I turned in the truck and got a 2006 model... guess what, it's starting to do the same thing - but no after market DVD player this time. So frustrating - crap car, no wonder they're going bankrupt!
  • Hello All! I got a 2002 Denali XL and my Service Ride Control light is on, What should I do that's cost friendly and easy if possible?
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,664
    Hey, I have a 2003. So far, it's cost $3,600 to repair with only 65K miles. I will never buy another GM. They can't even give 'em away now.

    I feel bad for everyone that purchased this truck and have had so many problems. This is Professional Grade???

  • skytop1skytop1 Posts: 106
    I had my '07 Lemon law'd after months of grueling battles and mediations with GM and their phoney mediatator. All mediation ended when my vehicle broke down and GM could NOT repair it. It rotted at the dealership for almost 4 months. GM informed me they would repurchase the vehicle under state lemon law. But it was a total farce designed to defraud the public and give only a superficial sense of justice. In reality, they purchased the vehicle from me at a huge discount stating "mileage depreciation charges." Think you then get paid in cash? Think again! You are given the opportunity to purchase another GM crapbox at LIST price. You are not even entitled to any existing discounts or rebates!!!!!!!!!!!! I was outraged.
    I had to fight with GM just to get them to at least honor and accept my GM Card earnings!!! What a low life operation GM really is. Meanwhile, the replacement vehicle turned out to be another 4 wheel problem. After much deliberation, I bit the bullet, took a huge depreciation loss on the '08 and purchased a FOREIGN car. I am now enjoying a well made, high mpg vehicle that works without problems. . Good luck to all those folks who have been suckered into buying a GM product. They will need that and more.
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    A few basic things I would try if I am in your situation, if you not already:
    1. Does the system respond/operate when you add weight to the rear of the vehicle (i.e. start the engine, open the tailgate and sit in the trunk area for 30 seconds or so, do you hear the compressor running within the 30 seconds at all)?
    2. The on board compressor is generally located behind the driver-side rear wheel, if its not running at all, it could be of the position sensor/switch that's out of adjustment, or some kind of electrical issue... I would by-pass the switch and verify that the compressor is operational first (make sure you know what you are doing before apply 12 volts to any lead/connector to avoid any damage)...
    3. If the compressor is ON constantly, there may be a leak in the system (i.e. line, shock, or possibly damaged/out-of-adjustment sensor/switch).... If the compressor is running constantly when the ignition is turned on, I would find and remove the fuse to the Autoride system immediately until the problem is fixed to avoid damage to the compressor and shock(s)...
    Good Luck!
  • No sir the suggestions you provided dont appear to be an issue. Thanks for the thoughts tho
  • help...2003 denali is falling apart..i love this car..but this is ridiculous! oh, and i paid to have the onstar upgraded and after 3 times at the still does not work properly..and the driver's side seat heater does not work...all other seats do...anyone????
  • I have a 2003 Yukon XL Denali purchased used in March 2006 with 58000 miles. We have routinely battled with the non-start issue. We've tried bigger batteries, shutting all accessories off etc. We can't figure it out. There is something randomly draining the battery. We actually went all summer without the problem and now it has started up again. My guess is something to do with the rear glass closure. But the repair shops figure there is no way to truly trace it as it is random and there are so many electrical switches and accessories. If someone has found the fix, it would be great to get any help.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,664
    Happened to me. I am on battery number 3. Sears gave it to me free under warranty since it was less than 2 years old.

    The last time it happened the dealer pointed to a seat switch that was stuck on. They reall have no clue, however.

  • It seems that electronics are a problem with this year/model or maybe with the denalis in general. I noticed recently when I turn the car off and take the keys out and shut the door(as in completely exit the vehicle including locking the doors) the radio stays on. I have to open the car doors up again and then close it up. That has been doing the trick. Or else, a better option is just turning the radio off when I turn the engine off. In any case, it is a pain in the neck. In thepast month I have had several issues come up. The raidio staying on, the driver seat switch seems to be reversed. To move the seat forward, you have to push back and visa-versa. Also, the door ajar message comes on randomly when the door is closed and then it locks and unlocks the doors. I have a feeling this is all probably related to some electrical short. I am just hesitant about getting it looked at for fear of the cost. Oh and my speedometer is stuck up on like 140mph. Which is strange. Last but not least the hydraulics seem to be resetting themselves often.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,664
    The speedometer thing happened after the last battery install. Try removing the positive lead to the battery. It resets some of the electronics.

    The fix for the speedometer was starting and switching off the engine many times and each time the spedo dropped a bit until finally reaching zero again.

  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,664
    There is a dealer recall on instruments that is open for my 2003. If your truck is 2003, you can take it to the dealer to fix the odometer on GM's dime.

    General Motors is providing owners with a special coverage that extends the warranty on the instrument panel cluster (..a condition where one or more of the instrument panel gauge needles may stick, flutter or become inoperative. This may cause inaccurate readings including the speedometer and fuel gauge.) Coverage within 7 years of orig. service date or 70K miles.

  • I figured it out this week. Firestone replaced my previous (dead) battery with a 700 CCA battery. For three months I had to jump start this hulk every Monday morning. Took it back to Firestone and they said they could'nt find anything wrong. Chevy dealership lied to me that they couldn't replicate the problem. In fact GMC dealership also told me the same lie. It turns out that the truck needs an 800 CCA battery. I bought one and the truck has been good ever since.

    The auto shops do not stock these batteries so they just give you the 700 CCA, what the heck. I only found this out after doing a little research on interstate batteries.
  • I had the same problem with my 04 and it was something that was recalled so check that out at your dealership they fixed mine and its been good for over a year now.
  • Does anyone know if there is a touch up kit or anything I can do to fix this?
  • johnadoejohnadoe Posts: 1
    In 2005 I bought a 2005 yukon denali and a 100,000 mile extended warranty. Now in 2009 I find out I bought a 90,000 mile warranty. I went back to the dealership and was told GMC had no 100,000 mile warranty. Has anyone else had this problem? I know I bought a 100,000 mile warranty because I was there when I bought it. Can someone help me out with this problem?
  • I had a 100,000 mile extended warranty that I bought for my 03 denali. It was through GM but it was 3 years or 100,000 whichever came first. I purchasaed it when the new car warranty expired. The three years came first. They sent me a small booklet with the information. I think it had a card with the warranty number on it that I kept in my glove box.

    I wish I could be more specific, but when it expired last November I threw it away. Good luck. Hope you get this resolved.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,664
    I believe the 100K is including the original 36K. I purchased a Continental plan which extended the period 7 years (from purchase date -10 years total) and 100K TOTAL, whichever comes first. Take a look at the contract.

  • tim117tim117 Posts: 3
    Recently I sent my IPC in to a repair shop for the stepper motor replacement / Calibration / Update . The vehicle was running perfectly when I parked it & removed the cluster. Upon re-installing the cluster, the battery was dead and the vehicle would not start. After charging the battery, I tried to start my Yukon again to no avail. After some troubleshooting, the fuel rail had no pressure, ie. the fuel pump was apparently inhibited

    Anyone have any ideas why it chose now to quit? I find it unlikely the fuel pump went out at this precise time.
  • tim117tim117 Posts: 3
    After reading many of the posts on this site, I don't know if I'm blessed, lucky, or just an unusual case. I own a 2004 Yukon XL 4.8L loaded with all the bells and whistles but not quite the Denali. I had reservations about the AWD and the fact that a service contract for the Denali was twice as much as my truck. Anyway, five years, 130,000 miles and the only repair I've done is the instrument cluster. I still have the original front brake pads, although I've had a replacement set in the garage for over two years. I refuse to replace them til the pad gets too thin. I just wanted everyone to know that my Yukon has been great, I love driving it, and will continue to drive til the wheels fall off.
  • kmbaronkmbaron Posts: 1
    Did you ever find an answer to your problem. I have the same issue and can't seem to find out why. I know the liftgate lock worked up to a certain point but it quit working and am trying to find out why.
  • I had this same problem and finally corrected it by replacing both front
    wheel speed sensors ( about 2 hours labor ) you have to remove the brakes
    and rotors to access the sensor. The parts cost $ 54.00 each at Ourisman
    Chevrolet, Bowie, Md.
  • UPDATE - Replaced body control computer - did not solve the problem. Now I just remove the fuse to keep battery from running down and put fuse in when I need to activate auto ride for trailering. Cannot figure this one out. Dealer said suspension control computer was bad. NOT SO. NEED AN EXTRA ONE?
  • 4king4king Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Yukon XL Denali with 72 months or 100,057miles which ever comes first. I thought I bought the Major Guard for 2200.00 but was sent the Value Guard contract, 72 mos. or 60,000 miles but my card and coverage agreement reads 72 and 100,057? Either way GMC sucks out whenever they can and yes they do sell 100,000 optional service contract plan. Not 100.000 mile warranty "wording"
  • 02gmcyukon02gmcyukon Posts: 1
    Well well well I have a Random Misfire
    so far I have done tune up wires
    fuel injector cleaning,throttle body
    and intake.Once you drive above 50 MPH
    and stay above that for about 10 Min check engine flashes
    then stays on scan it and the same code What am I missing hear.
  • leetholeetho Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem with my 2004 Denali, vibration in the steering wheel between 1500 - 2000 rpm and 50-55 mph. Had the vehicle at the dealership twice and they still cannot figure out the problem. Just changed the rims to 22 inch, still the same problem. They were hoping this would have solved the problem. Now I'm in a battle with them because they have not clue what to do.

  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    Some times bad wheel bearing can be one of the cause to wheel vibration; but, in this case have you checked the steering/ball joints first to see if any is worn (have the joints been regularly lubricated)? One other possibility is the wheel alignment, assuming your wheels are balanced, and all joints are solid...
  • cann1cann1 Posts: 1
    I just purchased a '02 Denali XL & it has this noise in the front drivers side that sounds like a rearend bearing noise! Has anyone had this problem with the Denali XL & what was done to fix it?? :cry:
  • xander71xander71 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Yukon XL Denali. The front air works great as I just had it fixed. The rear still blows warm air with rear ac on high. Not operator error. Checked and double checked settings. Wondered if maybe vent door not opening or something. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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