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GMC Yukon and Yukon Denali Problems



  • We have a 2011 Yukon Denali XL, 12,000 miles. I have noticed that it is all of a sudden riding very rough. The left front shock feels like it is not working at all and the front seems to bottom out on small bumps. I looked underneath and can see the underside of the left coil spring where it is actually contacting each coil and the right side does not show this. You can feel the auto ride working on the rear but feels like it is not working at all in front. Vehicle also sits 3/4" lower on the right side. I followed my wife the other day and could see that it was leaning to the right. No codes have been thrown. What should we do?
  • Does the 04 Yukon XL Denali have 100 or 145 amp alternator? I have checked the owners manual and the alternator itself with no luck.
  • I am glad to say I got rid of my Yukon Denali and will never buy another gm product due to their horrible customer service... My husband us turning in his lacrosse 2yrs early to also be done w gmc... Lost customer !!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,343
    105 AMP has part # 10464481

    145 AMP has part # 10464476

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Im new here, and recently bout a 98 Yukon Denali. There is a few things wrong with it. Just little things really, but enough to aggravate me. The first on is my rear cargo door (very back door) They open left to right instead of up and down. The first door opens but the second one doesn't, I took the trim off and it doesn't even look like the actuator is connected to the handle. The second is when I open the door the done light doesn't come on, but when I toggle the dome light to come on it comes on and my dome override isn't engaged. These are just a few things thats going on right now, Ill probably post more later. Anything can help. Thanks in advance.
  • the front passenger door of our denali will not open. It use to open if we played with the lock on the inside but no longer. We used a slim jim to see if maybe the door would unlocked and open by chance but still no good. How do we open the door when i have not access to get the panel off? :sick:
  • I just purchased a used 2001 Denali, 110K and I drove it home. It rides very well but after about 30 miles, the "service engine soon" light came on. Still no problem driving, no sounds, etc. Took it to a local mechanic and he stated that the transmission was slipping or it was a bad cylinder, per two codes that came up.
    I really don't believe I bought a lemon, just trying to get an idea of the cost or is this alarm at this stage normal, etc. Looking for any feedback.

  • Sounds like bull. Check engine is mostly emissions. Don't go back to that guy.
  • I have an 03 Denali and they have been telling me the tranny is slipping for years now. It sometimes takes it a second longer to get into 2nd gear, but I figure it has lasted this long and I'll fix it when it dies! Check engine light usually means an o2 sensor and those go bad frequently and make it run a bit rough, nothing earth shattering. Not thinking you got a lemon just someone who wants to make money. Go to autozone or whatever auto parts store you frequent and use their OBD code reader for free. Then you can look up the codes yourself online. Good luck. I just wish I knew what I could do to fix the peeling paint on my glovebox, dash and center console.... Anyone?
    Good luck
  • ****update*****

    When I am in drive, the truck makes a thud and gets into gear really fast, still rides smooth, just makes a loud noise when I first begin to drive.
  • I have had a 2003 Denali XL for a little over a year now. It has 126k miles. The other day when I was driving, I heard a kind of clanging metal sound, but it just lasted for a second and I couldn't even be sure it was coming from my truck, but it was pretty loud. Ever since, I have had this rubbing noise coming from (what sounds like) the front driver's side wheel. It is not a grinding or squealing at all, just a rub. It is not a constant rub, but like there is one point on the tire or wheel that is rubbing on something (rub...rub...rub) and it increases and decreases in frequency, but not loudness, in relation to the speed I am driving. It seems like it might increase in loudness some when I am turning, but I am not for sure on that. I haven't driven it much since it started. I checked all four tires and do not see any bubbles in the tires that might be rubbing or any rub marks on the fender wells or anything. The brakes seem to be working fine, no issues there or any additional sounds or vibration when braking. Any ideas?!
  • Our 2003 Denali just started a new trick. When in driver setting one, as we back out of the drive. The locks go unlocked, reset them and few minutes or bumps later they will unlock again. It happened three of four times today. But after that it didn't do it again. This has been an intermittent deal for a few weeks now. Doesn't do it on setting two.
  • I have a 2009 Yukon SLT that just went dead the other day on my way home from work and I had to get it towed. The dealer looked at it and said that the fuel pump was bad so they replaced it. Once that was replaced it would crank but was obviously still having issues so all 8spark plugs were replaced because they were "burnt up". But still the sputtering continued. They then found out that the dowel pin in the cam shaft was broken. When they started to replace that they noticed that the cam bearings were broken so I was informed that the entire engine was going to be replaced. I am trying to decide now if I should try and sell/trade this vehicle after it is back running or consider it a good thing because now I have a brand new engine that was covered under warranty. What are everyone's thoughts? Thanks.
  • I can understand why you are considering selling or trading the vehicle. Just for your information, this new engine will have its own Replacement Parts warranty on it for 36 months/100,000 miles, whichever comes first.

    Either way, if we can be of further assistance please don't hesitate to get in touch via email. I hope you have a very happy holiday season!

    GM Customer Service
  • We had a similar situation with an '07 Yukon....nothing but electrical problems and the engine had to be completely remanufactured. It now has over 100k miles on it and we decided that, (since hopefully most issues have been repaired)....we would take a huge gamble and keep it. It truly is a huge gamble....
  • my headlights just stopped working yesterday and the switch on the dash was in the right position. The high beams still work - anyone have a problem similar to this with a reasonably easy fix
  • Until a few days ago I would only have praise for my truck but now all in the space of one day my key fobs no longer work, the passenger window,door lock,seat heat and side mirror don't work.....any ideas? All the fuses are fine.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    Thank you for sharing your experiences with your post. Can you please email me your VIN, current mileage, and involved dealer? I look forward to your email. Happy Holidays!
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    I would recommend speaking with the dealer. They will be able to at least diagnosis the concern for you. Please keep us updated on your situation.
    GM Customer Service
  • I looked through the resources I have available, and wasn't able to find anything to help troubleshoot this with you. Do you plan on visiting your dealership? As your vehicle is a 2011, you are well within the New Vehicle Limited Warranty (Bumper-to-Bumper). Please keep us updated!

    Happy New Year,
    GM Customer Service
  • My Yukon started acting up the other day. It has developed a misfire and under load it sounds like a loud spark knock. There is no knock on free rev only under load. It does not knock until the engine gets some temp in it.I have pulled the codes and they indecicate a misfire on #5 cylinder along with a heater circuit on #1 Bank #1.I have done the drill - New AC plugs /Wires/Cap/Rotor/Compression check.My next step is the infamous injection spider.

    Any Input would be appreciated
  • I also have a 2007 and had to have my engine replaced at 50K, how is your vehicle running currently? The only problem I seem to be noticing is my milage has gone down to 11.7 mpg from about 15 mpg over the past year. Also at times the vehicle will hesitate when execrating, like its missing a gear. What major maintenance have you completed? Im sort of unclear on what is required at this milage point and do I really have 30K on my truck or is it the 80k that is accurate ? Thanks for any help you can assist me on.

  • I also got code p2138 from on star. I saw your post and disconnected the battery and then the sensor connection on the gas pedal. It worked! no more service stabilitrak or reduced engine power. This is the second time this happened to my 2009 Yukon Denali. It happened a month ago and the dealer replaced my throttle body. Then happened again yesterday. Thankful this worked after reading all of the posts on reduced engine power.
  • Hey, I fixed my problem it was a bad connection at the Passenger Door Module(master window switch) one of the connections has a lock on it that keeps it from coming lose mine had broken off at the clasp. I unplugged and secured with a cable tie until I can find the connector at a junk yard online. Anyway it works perfect and Whew what a savings vs the 400.00 plus repair for a bad PDM at the dealer.
  • A while back my service airbag light came on. It is a bit annoying, so started searching online for a possible reason (never wrecked). There's all kinds of airbag problems online. So husband got a SRS scanner/reader and got codes B0026, B0043, B0044, B0084, B0100, and B0104. Have searched recalls and technical service bulletins, called GMC customer service, and researched until I'm blue in the face. Any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,343
    DTC B0026-stage 1 or B0044-stage 2 will set when one of the following conditions occurs:
    The SDM (system and diagnostic module) detects the steering wheel module deployment loop resistance is greater than 4.8 ohms for 500 milliseconds .
    The SDM detects the voltage at steering wheel module high control is less than 2.4 volts and steering wheel module deployment loop resistance is 6 ohms or greater for 500 milliseconds .

    DTC B0084

    The inflatable restraint seat position sensor (SPS) is used to determine the proximity of a front driver or passenger seat position with respect to the frontal air bag. The SPS interfaces with the sensing and diagnostic module (SDM). The state of the SPS allows the SDM to disable stage 2 of the frontal air bag for a front seat that is forward of a forward/rearward point in seat track travel. The SPS is a hall effect sensor that is mounted on the outboard seat track of both the driver and passenger seats. The seat track includes a metal bracket that shunts the SPS magnetic circuit creating 2 states of seat position. The shunted state represents a rearward seat position. The non-shunted state represents a forward position. The SPS provides 2 current ranges, one range for the shunted state and a second range for a non-shunted state. These 2 states are inputs to the SDM. State 1 (shunted) being the rearward threshold and state 2 (non-shunted) being the forward threshold. When the SDM receives input from a SPS that state 1 threshold is reached (seat is rearward) the SDM will not disable stage 2 deployment, if required by the deployment sensors. When state 2 threshold is reached (seat is forward) the SDM will disable stage 2 deployment on the side the seat is forward. The SDM monitors the SPS circuit and if a fault is detected the SDM will set codes B0083 or B0084 and defaults to disabling stage 2 frontal deployment. This will only default on the side of the vehicle the sensor has a fault. Its important to understand that the SPS is secondary to the passenger presence system (PPS) and the manual instrument panel (I/P) module disable switch. If either one of these devices are in the disable mode the passenger air bag will not deploy regardless of the SPS status.

    DTC B0100

    The inflatable restraint front end sensor utilizes a unidirectional 2-wire circuit. The front end sensor modulates current on the interface to send ID, State of Health, and deployment commands to the inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module (SDM). The SDM serves as a power source and a ground for the front end sensor. When the ignition is turned on and input power from the SDM is first detected, the front end sensor responds by performing internal diagnostics and sending an ID to the SDM. The SDM considers the ID to be valid if the response time is less than 5 seconds . The front end sensor continually communicates status messages to the SDM, which determines if a fault is present in the front end sensor circuit. When a fault is detected, the SDM resets the front end sensor twice by removing and reapplying power. If the fault is still present, the SDM will set a DTC.

    DTC B0100 and B0103 will set when one of the following conditions occur:
    A valid ID message is not received within 5 seconds of the front end sensor being powered up.
    Status message is not received.
    The SDM has failed twice to reset the front end sensor.
    DTC B0102 and B0105 will set when one of the following conditions occur:
    The SDM has received an ID message from the front end sensor which does not match the ID stored in the SDM memory.
    When 2 front end sensor resets are attempted without the correct identification being detected by the SDM.
    DTC B0101 and B0104 will set when the SDM has received 4 consecutive NOK (Not OK) messages from the front end sensor.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Driving down the road, we got the message service battery charging system, then all of sudden car no longer works. Got it towed to our dealer and of course now that we have had the car for a couple of months everything goes wrong. $3500 of service to get the thing up and running. Right after warranty ends. Alternator is bad, oil cap is leaking, ring on 4 wheel drive is broke, motor on the rear tailgate...the list goes on. Clearly the car was not built to last? What can I do since the warranty is technically up?
  • Is your car still in at the dealership? If you would like to open a Service Request with us, we could explore what options may be available to you after doing some investigating. Please send us an email with your name/Edmunds user name, your contact information (phone and address please), the last 8 digits of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership. My coworker Christina, who answers most of the emails from Edmunds, will advise you as to our next steps.

    GM Customer Service
  • Have a 2000 Yukon Denali with about 113500 miles. Just had transmission rebuilt. Mechanic said rear differential is slipping because at times, it is slipping when I turn left or right. He told me to just keep driving it until I could no longer drive it. It could go out in a year or 5-6 years.
    I drive over 1000 miles a week and cannot afford to be put down on the road. Any suggestions?

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