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Subaru Legacy/Outback 2005+



  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I got a set of those same Falken on my Miata. Liked them so much that I now have a set on my Forester and on my wife's Legacy!

    Shop, great pricing.

  • samiam_68samiam_68 Posts: 775
    Yokohama AVID H4S or V4S - one of top rated tires. Not very expensive. Long tread life. Directional, though. Why would you want to cross-rotate?
  • luck11luck11 Posts: 425
    Doh! Horrendous spelling on my part. Thanks Juice....they are Falken, not Falcon. Geez.....
  • itseditsed Posts: 17
    I replaced my RE-92s with Bridgestone Turanza LS-V's. I got them on sale at a buy three get one free deal. Very satisfied with them. Took them once in the snow over Donner pass and had no problems, and great wet traction.
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    It sounds like an all-season tire would suit you best, but there are two criteria that don't match: price and H-rated.

    Even if you don't plan on driving over 80mph, you probably should stay with at least the same sidewall rating as the OE tires. The speed rating is also a measure of sidewall stiffness that has an impact on handling.

    That said, it is hard to find any Z-rated or higher tire at the $100 range in your size from a name brand tire. My favorite budget-minded tire is the Dunlop SP5000 but I don't think it's available in the size and speed rating.

    Have you tried searching on Tire Rack?

  • An attempt to get the most uniform wear pattern by doing both a front-back and left-right rotation. Fronts go straight to rear and rears cross to front (or something like that). Directional tires preclude this.
  • rob_mrob_m Somewhere North of BostonPosts: 813
    Is it advisable to cross-rotate radial tires? I thought this could lead to tire belt problems.

    I am seriously considering a set of Yokohama Avid V4S tires for my wife's Outback. Tire rack gives them extremely good ratings. FWIW, I have a set of Yoko AVS on my Mustang GT, and the wet traction is awesome. Rob M.
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Not cross rotating radial tires is an outdated practice. Early radial tires did have a tendency for problems to happen with the belt when doing this, but I believe it's not an issue anymore.

    My guess is that Subaru recommends a front-to-back since it's the most conservative of all rotation patterns. It will handle even directional tires as well. However, the rotation pattern should also be dictateed by tire wear. A performance alignment specialty shop I sometimes use does this and it can make a huge difference in treadlife.

  • bruce3bruce3 Posts: 13
    I bought the Falkien 512s about a year ago. They wear very well and are much better in snow. Handling may not be quite as good.
  • Correct. When radials first appeared many years ago the recommendation was to not cross-rotate; I can't remember whether the problem was real or imaginary. In any event the problem long ago disappeared. Since then it has become "urban myth". Your theory about Subaru's rotation makes sense -- then the owner doesn't have to worry about tire directionality. My opinion is that cross-rotation does make a big difference. Hence my desire for non-directional tires.
  • garandmangarandman Posts: 524
    The problem was real. It was caused by steel mesh radial belts that took a set. As most if not all modern tires have some sort of composite belt it's not generally an issue.

    The directional Michelin HydroEdge we put on our 97 OB still have over 6/32nd tread after 63,000 miles, so we haven't found front-back rotation to be a problem.
  • djettadjetta Posts: 20
    I'll be picking up my car this week and I'm just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what to check for before driving off the lot. When I pick up the car I will be driving approx. 200 miles. I know to check for paint problems, exterior and interior condition. Is there anything else under the hood, fluid levels, etc that I should look for. Thanks! :shades:
  • tire pressures (#1 offender - get a good gauge)
    spare tire pressure
    wheel locks (if applicable)
    engine oil
    auto trans fluid (if applicable)
    lights, turn signals, brake lights
  • i just brought home my brand new 2006 legacy gt wagon and there is some kinda greenish/yellowish residue that almost looks like paint or something thats splashed on all the brake calipers, anyone have an idea what that is? the brakes work great so i dont know what it is :confuse:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Anti-squeel compound?

    The stuff I use is bright red, but it comes in many colors.

  • its brand new from factory so i dont know?? i hope it doesnt squeel brand new :mad:
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,920
    No, the anti-squeal compound is standard, used to cushion the metal-on-metal contact of the brake piston to the pad backing. But, if applied carelessly, perhaps it could get on the outside of the caliper. Your description of "splatter" leads me to believe it is not that. Tough to say, really, but if you keep an eye on it to make sure it does not get worse, then mention it the next time you have it at the dealer and have them give you an opinion, too.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • kmcleankmclean Posts: 173
    For those of you considering opting for the auto-dimming mirror (with compass readout), be aware that the manufacturer (MagnaDon, formerly Donnelly Electronics) has been producing auto-dimming mirrors that fail prematurely due to internal leakage of the gel matrix that produces the auto-dimming effect.

    Anyone having such a mirror installed should antipate its failure after several years of typical use. MagnaDon now claims that its new mirrors utilize a solid (non-leaking) matrix that addresses the previous defect. Choose to believe or not at your own risk. A replacement will cost you approximately $200.
  • dbike1dbike1 Posts: 7
    The first thing you should do is take it to the dealer and check the allignment. 25000 miles is abnormal wear and there is probably something wrong. Give them an opportunity to make things right.

    I noticed the rear tires on my 05 VDC were wearing poorly at 10000 miles but did not take it to the dealer until 15000, by which time the tire pressure warning light was coming on sporatically. They found that the allignment was way out of whack and replaced the tires (all four) at no cost.

    My first reaction had been that the tires were inferior, as most OEM tire are. I almost went out on my own and had the tires replaced, but thankfully I did not do that as it would not have solved the problem.

    These 17" tires are very expensive, perhaps somewhat less so now that all Outbacks have them (ie they are more pervasive).

  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    While the mirror may develop a leak as stated (I know it did on my 2000 OB), it is a part that was covered under warranty (although it may have been the extended). I think the benefits of the mirror out weigh any possible problem.

  • I appreciate all of the feedback I am receiving on this question. The Falken and Yokohama tires look good, but they are directional. Two other candidates are:

    Kumho Ecsta ASX W-rated, 420-aa-a, asymmetric, $80
    Sumitomo HTR H4 H-rated, 400-a-a, asymmetric, $77

    Does anyone have any feedback on these?
  • I have the Kumho Ecsta ASX on my 05 2.5i wagon. I like them a lot. They are good in crummy weather, and have a quiet ride, too.
    I would buy them again.
    I have also owned that model, or a similar model of the Sumitomos, which were on my old car. I liked them, too. They are quite comparable to the Ecsta ASX in many ways. I think the Ecsta's may be a little quieter, but that is hard to say, given they were on different vehicles.

    Both were MUCH better than the OEM tires.
  • mbermber Posts: 2
    How does the Kumho cornering performance compare to the OEM tires? How many miles do you have so far? I'm looking for a repalcement tire right now.
  • mbermber Posts: 2
    Do you corner aggressively? That is, do you enjoy s turns in your Miata? If so, how is the cornering stability of the Falken tire? What sort of mileage have yuo gotten from the tread since you have 2 sets so far?
  • I'd say they corner better. Keep in mind that these are 205-55-16, so on a mid-sized car, that is not a lot of tire. There is a bit of sidewall to contend with, so you won't get that sharp, 40-series tire response from any tire in this size , from my experience. The Kumhos are respectable though. If you want more snappy response, you'd have to upsize to 215/45/17, like the GTs have (I think the 2006 non-turbos have 17" rims, so you may not have the same size I do).
    We have something like 17,000 miles on our Legacy. These tires were put on at 1,000 miles, so they have about 16,000 miles on them. We had a big gouge in one of the OEM tires, and since they stink, we replaced all of them. We don't regret the decision.
    The ASXs seem to wear well, and have maintained a quiet ride.
    If you want a tire that does well in bad weather, rides smoothly and quietly, handles spririted driving reasonably well, has respectable tread life, this is not a bad option at all.
    Good luck to you and all.
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 845
    has the same wheels like GT but tires are 205/50R17.

  • I was not happy that my brand new 06 Legacy wagon did not have what is now a very common feature "retaining accessory power" that keeps things alive for a while after removing the key. Later I found this very fact had been noted (on Edmunds!).. as a "minus" for the car.

    Long story short: I made a black box module that wires in under the dash to give the car retained accessory power after removing the key for a selectable time (2 to 16 minutes.) Does the job nicely.. It has options for killing accessory power, since I don't like it when opening the door kills power instantly - because often I'm out of the car then realize I need to jump back in and use a power accessory... I made it that when you LOCK the car cuts power. And along these lines, I made it that pressing UNLOCK breathes life into accessory power - the radio comes on and is playing when you hop in which is kind of novel.. but also lets me use other accessories without ever having to put a key in the ignition! .. it powers off after a time, or locking the car again.

    I also found a one-wire way to get power windows to work when Accessory power is on (instead of requiring ignition power to be on).. Also applies to sunroof on wagons.. so now I can use windows during retained power time.

    I've posted the brainpower on doing this elsewhere on another forum, I also offer install kits on a website if you don't want to make your own but buy a complete and tested kit ready to install, with Legacy instructions.

    Scott McPhee
  • Hello Scott: Very useful information and I want to pursue it. I looked at, a nice site, but I couldn't find your posting. Where should I look?

  • I picked up my 06 Outback LLBean last monday and this is my first new car. It drives and looks great so far except yesterday when I looked the underbody I saw quite a lot rust spots on the exhaust system. The mufflers looks pretty good but most pipes/connections have some rust-like spots all around. I understand the car may have stayed in the dealer parking lot for a long time and even had a Minnesota winter already if it came in 2005, but it bothers me now. Does anyone know if this is normal for a "new" but "last year" model car? Should I ask and have the dealer do something to prevent it from further rusting? And what is the life time for the exhaust system anyway? Thanks a lot.
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