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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair



  • Yes, it is a PZEV - emission vehicle and I believe it is the canister. Thanks for the info. I am going to ask the dealer if they all sound so loud and if they can make it more quite. I have a 2002 BMW 530 that I recently listened to and it does the same thing, but I never noticed it in 4 years until now. The noise on it comes from under the passenger seat and sounds like a slight flick of a tin can. Maybe Mercedes needs to insulate it better.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    Does anyone know how much it costs to replace the cracked dashboard top on 99 E-class? Most develop a crack on top and lower left side of the passenger side airbag module, and how much does it cost to replace the burnt/washed out outside temp and clock display on 2000-2002 E-class.

    Doesn't Mercedes have any extended HIDDEN warranty on any of these items?

  • I recently bought an '04 E320 off lease. After about 2 days I've noticed a humming noise from beneath the hood when I unlock the door. This doesn't happen every time, but typically only when the car has been sitting for an hour or two. Is this common?

    The dealer indicated that he spoke with the mechanic and the noise I am hearing is the electric motor charging the braking system. The explanation doesn't really pass the smell test to me. Thanks.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Posts: 336
    Are you ready? Had the same problem with time etc info.

    Remedy---A complete new instrument package. Mine was still under warranty so do not know the cost. Afraid to ask.
  • loungerlounger Posts: 32
    Probably normal. Your car has SBC brakes. Do a google search for Mercedes Benz forums and search SBC brake. There are reams of info on this. There are TSB's to reduce the noise for some cars (but not eliminate it); ask your service advisor to look up the maintenance records to see if the TSB has been applied, and if not, if one is available.
    Of course, ask to test out another car like yours and to compare. The SBC pump often will run when you open the door or when you turn on the car.
  • cfhcfh Posts: 2
    My 1988 Mercedes 300E blower motor does not work. It just stopped working. I don't know if it's defective motor or some other component that is the problem. I hesitate to replace the blower motor. Anyone out there who can guide me through this problem?
  • pfentonpfenton Posts: 16
    I am the proud owner of a 95' E-320 sedan and its quality, reliability and attraction has never been an issue for
    me (German-made). MB has been building luxury cars for almost a century, begining in Sindelfingen, Germany in 1910 and its reputation was impeccable until the decision was made to mass produce these vehicles in the USA. Perhaps all the problems rest with American "work ethic" and not MB.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    I just bought a 2001 E430 RWD with 72K miles. I need help with a few things as I will be doing my own oil change, coolant flush, brake pads and rotor changes, and cabin
    >filter changes. The MB dealer charges $250 for schedule A, and some $450 for schedule B. It is amazing that besides oil/filter, and cabin air filter change, the rest is all inspection!!! If they have to replace anything they charge you more. I do not believe in putting Mobil 1 in and forget about oil change for 14K miles. I don't care what the FSS says, however I will continue to use Mobile 1 since it is specified.

    Several questions;

    >Where is the FSS rest botton?
    >Where is the cabin filter located?
    >What is the wrench size for oil drain plug?
    >Can I use regular $6 paper element Bosch oil filter instead of $19 fleece type filter? I will not go more than 6K miles between oil changes as they say Fleece type is suitable for long servive intervals.
    >I do appreciate the help with my questions.
  • rmt6668rmt6668 Posts: 1
    I have tested the 3 pin wires using a Multimeter.

    (1) Test the middle pin with AC switch disconnected--->0 Volts & plugging the 3 pin wire to the Blower turn ON full blast
    (2) Test the middle pin with AC Switch connected ----->12 Volts & plugging the 3 pin wire to the Blower turn ON full blast
    (3) Test the middle pin with AC switch connected (a) Switch 1---> 11 Volts (b) Switch 2--->10 Volts (c) Switch 3--->9 Volts (d) Switch 4--->8 Volts (e) Switch 5--->5.5 Volts
    (4) With Engine On, test the middle pin with AC switch connected (a) Switch 1---> 12.5 Volts (b) Switch 2--->12 Volts (c) Switch 3--->11 Volts (d) Switch 4--->10 Volts (e) Switch 5--->7 Volts

    Whats odd is that the Blower keep blasting away with or without the AC Switch connected or disconnected.

    But the Multimeter detected 12 Volts in the middle pin when the AC Swicth is connected but 0 Volts when discoonected?
  • evil420eevil420e Posts: 1
    I have had to replace both rear window regulators on my 1997 e420. They went bad within a year of each other. I was driving down the road and heard a loud bang and then the drivers side rear window fell into the door frame. I almost peed my pants thinking my car had been shot at!! Thankfully the window did not break.. when we took the interior door panel off, surveyed the damage, it was all due to the cheap plastic pullies that ar used. they get brittle and break because the window switch does not have an auto stop feature allowing you to keep trying to close it after the fact, well the pressure can be enough to snap the cheap plastic pully, and BLAM...goes the window! of course you have to replace the entire window regulator with motor about runs $275.00-$375.00 if purchased at authentic MB regulators w/out motor are available without serious internet hunting.. plus to remove the old regulator, you must drill out the rivets slip of that drill and you got a nasty hole in your door(not for the faint of heart)

    I suggest anyone who lives in a climate like ours where the summers get to 100-112 for weeks on end to invest in spare regulators... as it is only a matter of time :mad:
  • dgcamerodgcamero Posts: 148
    When you change the oil, be certain to use the most recently specified 229.5 oil and a fleece oil filter. If you use those oils and a fleece filter and have oil consumption issues MBUSA will honor warranty claims up to 150,000 miles. The easiest 229.5 oil to find is Mobil 1 0W40. Some Walmarts stock it. My 3.2 takes 8.5 quarts of oil, and requires the $20ish fleece oil filter. I'm not certain if the 4.3 requires more. There is absolutely no reason to waste your $70 and time changing the oil more frequently than specified by FSS. Methods of resetting FSS are in the owner's manual, as your car's specific equipment level can mean you need to use a different method than others. In mine, you turn the key to position 2, wait exactly 8 seconds and push the trip odo reset button while turning the key and jumping up and down and saying you will reset you will reset...or something equally ridiculous...As long as you use the Mobil 1 0W40 and a fleece oil filter, you are protected by *TWO* warranties, the Mercedes class action suit,a101R1PT and the Mobil 1 oil warranty.

    My two cents...
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    Thank you for your comments. This E430 with 72K miles has been maintained by the dealer. I have the A and B schedule records, yet when I took the filler cap off, the cap bottom, and all ID part of the metal part of the neck had dark and burnt oil look and DEPOSIT. My 93 Ford Ranger with 145K miles has cleaner looking oil cap or filler neck neck than this MB does. I do not like the thought of using $5.50 a quart synthetic and go with what the FSS says. I think car manufacturers get into who can go further with the longest oil changes. If I ignore the FSS interval, and change the oil every 3-4K, can I go with regular oil and paper filters?
    The owner manual is missing and they have ordered one. Once I get it, I am sure it will answer a lot of my questions.

    You are correct. Walmart does carry both 0w40 and 15W50 oil weights. I just have a problem with using synthetic when I used regular oil all my life. I have never ever had engine problem ever. I just don't know what makes the MB so unique. In Middle East, I know tons of these MB are driving around, and I KNOW in those countries they don't have the $ or variety of oil range options that we have in the US.

  • I have a 2000 E320 with 127,000 miles. A week ago, I drove the car down the street then stopped to wait for my son's bus. I turned the key slightly to get the radio to work and left that on for 4-5 minutes, following which the car would not start. There was a "turning" sound as if the car was trying to start but it would not. I tried 2-3 times over a few minutes with the same result. I went to it 15 minutes later and it started fine.

    The following day after starting the car, I drove a couple of blocks and stopped at a stoplight, put the car in park, and the engine stopped, with the same sound as when it would not start. It started right up after that.

    Today it did the same as the first time. Coming to the car when it had been off for several hours, it would not start and gave the same sound. Tried 2-3 times with same result, then 15 minutes later it started fine.

    I had the car in the shop last week and they checked the battery and alternator and said they were good, and they couldn't tell what was causing it. Today I took it back and they said the same thing. There is no malfunction light. He suggested that it could be the key, which may not be connecting right to get the anti theft function off. He named several other things it could be but said he can't test for those unless they are happening, and it's starting fine now.

    Any ideas? thanks in advance.
  • blissfulblissful Posts: 79
    Sounds like a tank vent problem. Dont know where the vent is in your car, but with the volatile gas recapture systems fueling stations use for air quality, there needs to be some sort of pressure relief, and this could be the source of the problem.
  • blissfulblissful Posts: 79
    When you say "turning sound" do you mean it does a very rapid turning sound, as the engine does when the starter is turning but before it actually turns over the engine?

    If so, it is possible that you have missing teeth on the starter (broken off due to misuse in the past). In this case, it might engage just fine some of the time, but not at others, depending on the random position it is in when thrown out. If so, then it might just as randomly start with ease, or take several tries until the teeth are lined up in a physical position that allows them to engage properly.

    However, this would not explain the car "stopping with the same sound" when you put it in Park. The above described scenario would apply to an older vehicle. I really don't know if the same mechanism is used in "modern" cars.
  • Thanks very much for the input If I knew your billing rate I'd have you send me a bill.

    Yes it was a rapid sound. What you described seems to make sense, but we'll see.
  • dgcamerodgcamero Posts: 148
    If you already have sludgey buildup I would definitely not go with anything other than 229.5 oil (0W40 is 229.5, 15W50 is not) and a fleece oil filter. Mercedes will rebuild your engine for free (and give you a loaner) if your car starts burning too much oil. Part of this process entails an oil analysis, and if they discover the wrong oil and wrong oil filter, your claim may [actually probably will] be denied.

    I am a believer in synthetic oil. It doesn't break down or lose any of its lubrication properties at high miles like dino oil. Drive two cars for a while around town, one with synthetic, one without -- then open the hoods and lift the oil caps. The dino oiled car will have "smoke" coming up from the filler cap and the synthetic oiled car will not. Synthetic simply doesn't break down. My previous Dodge Intrepid's 3.2 liter engine was always treated with Mobil 1. I drove the absolute snot out of the car with 90% city driving, changed the oil every 10,000 miles and never experienced any engine problems and never burned a drop of oil. When Mobil developed the Extended Performance oil, I switched to 15,000 mile intervals for oil changes. When the car was totalled at 122K miles, I inherited my M-B from my mother. My entire family uses Mobil 1 in all of their cars with extended oil change intervals and no one has ever had a single engine problem [Ford, Honda, Toyota, Chevy, Volvo]. Additionally, after switching to the 229.5 oil in the M-B, it hasn't had any problems with the engine (following the FSS oil change interval).
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    Does any one know if MB fixed the rear window falling in the door problem with later E-class(2000-up) by going to a modified/improved or different design? I know there were issues with 96-99 models.

  • greasykid1greasykid1 Posts: 336
    The W210 model (E class thru 2002) has the same problem.
  • jerseydjerseyd Posts: 1
    any ideas if there is a wire harness conection that controlls all functions in the door
  • dcr3dcr3 Posts: 1
    I am the owner of a 2001 E430 and have had several bulb issues, now my driver side front parking light is out. How do I change the bulb?
  • pmowrypmowry Posts: 1

    I am having the same thing happen, I was thinking it was the temp cooler relay switch thing. I flushed the cooling system and I thought it was fixed. Today it quit twice. I popped the hood, felt a rush of heat, the gauge also was higher than it usually is. The guage was well abouve the 80 it usually is. As soon as the engine is cooled the concern is still there after a little cooling it starts, I am so pissy about being stranded. I saw the information about the starter, today during one of the start concern I heard a click, something abnormal. What can we do? any ideas? I tell ya I am frustrated. I have never heard my main fan run on the car rushing air into the cooler? hmmmm still up in arms.
  • Hi,

    Did you ever get your clock, temp guage and gear selection guage fixed? What was the issue?

    Any suggestions from other members is appreciated.

    I have a 2002 e320 that has the same problem.

  • td01td01 Posts: 7
    My rear left window was stuck. Took it to MB Dealer - Got the Regulator replaced - Motor was ok. Cost is $600. While car was in shop the rear right window stopped working. Is this a recurring/common and/or design problem. Has Mercedes acknowledged the problem. Is there any way they will cover the repair cost after Warranty expires?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    I own an unter-teknologie '03 Hyundai Sonata. I've had all four window regulators replaced twice in my car - at my expense. (Hyundai's explanation to me for not covering the work under its blanket 5 yr./60,000 mile basic warranty at my car's current 19,900 miles was a terse, "Damage due to excess use is not warranted." Gotta love Hyundai's bellicose corporate mindset.) Given MB's 10% equity stake in Hyundai, you don't suppose MB is using Hyundai as a contracted materials supplier do you? Now, that's a scary thought.
  • garyh1garyh1 Posts: 386
    I don't get it: what constitutes "excessive use" of an electric window? What would you be doing with all 4 windows (that they know about) that would justify use of the this limitation?
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    I bought a 2001 E430 several months ago. I chose end of the cycle style rather than a 2003 new style thinking after making the older style from 1996 to 2002, Mercedes would have worked out the bugs and IMPROVED the design of all marginal parts. It does not appear that is the case.

    When clock/shifter/temp read out go out in 2000-2002, it will cost about $1400 to replace it. They have to replace the entire IP. My E430 is a great car to drive, but I am kind of disappointed at MB for their nagging quality issues. Mercedes has already said that they have no intention of catching Lexus in build quality.....I don't think they can.

    There is no doubt that Mercedes tests the water with new hi tech items much more than any Japanese car manufacturer will ever dare to, I just wish Mercedes would prove out the technology longer before mass marketing it. Look at their brake by wire on 2003 E-class.......

    Still MB is a great driving car, and I keep praying that things don't go wrong with mine!!!

  • greasykid1greasykid1 Posts: 336
    It is recommended to use the windows often to help the problem with regulators. Also regulator price should be about $300 not $600
    There are places to get the instrument panel repaired

    JOIN THE MB CLUB. Only $45 per year. You will find advertisers for most items that repair or replace parts for much less than MB dealers.

    Just bought a 2005 E320CDI from their websight from another member at much less than a preowned from the dealer. If you have already spent $ 50,000 onthe car joining the club is a no brainer. Also sold my 2001 E320 here.
  • pete51pete51 Posts: 20
    Looking for feedback, I have a 97 E320 with 180K. The transmission seems to have trouble in 1st gear. When coming to a quick stop, it seems to slam in to first gear, also when coming to an almost stop and accelerating, it seems to hesitate between 1st and 2nd gear. Other than that all other shifts seem perfect. I had the transmission fluid and filter changed, and it did seem to help the problem, but it is still a problem. Anybody experienced with this problem please help! No other problems other than the infamous inline 6 oil leak that mechanic says to deal with the few drops that not really damaging anything but your garage floor or look at about a $1500 dollar repair. Needless to say I put a mat down to to protect the floor. My mechanic also says with this transmission nothing can be put in stone, plus you have 180K on the car it's not going to last forever. I still like this car and I would love to keep it if this is not a crazy repair. Any advice and/or feedback would be greatly appreciated.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    Can I use dino oil in my used E430 with 75K miles? I have no intention of ever going to FSS's 10K mile interval. I just changed the oil for the first time. Last oil change was done at 70K. I put 0W40 Mobil one in for now.

    I think MB was using dino oil in these engines with Flex Service that came out in 1998. Once they had issues with dino oil that FSS said to replace at 12-14K miles, they were seeing engine damage and then MB said to switch to synthetic to control the engine damage.

    I think going so long between oil changes might have done some damage....I hear some lifter noise at cold starts that goes away after about a minute or two. A high tech engine like Mercedes V-8 that had oil changes at MB dealer at perscribed A and B service intervals, should not have lifter noise.

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