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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Maintenance and Repair



  • steve3226steve3226 Posts: 15
    My mechanic says he always has to replace the front rotors on E-320s but not on other makes. Why is this. My wife Lexus RX brake replacement was much cheaper than on the E-320. Why isn't there a warning light to tell when the brakes are worn to the extent of pad replacement?

    For 6 years I've enjoyed driving the E-320 and had relatively few problems, however, my wife's RX has had zero problems in the 3 years we've had it. After reading the posts here, I think I'll go for a Lexus ES or GS next time even though I prefer the E-320. Reliability/quality build trumps a slight advantage in handling.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,327
    Most modern Mercedes (and many other cars) require throwing away the rotors if they have any marking or warping.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    One of the reasons that the brakes on MB's are so good is that both the pads and rotors are intentionally a little softer than on other makes. This allows the pads and rotors to wear a little more and keeps the rotor temperature (under severe use) from getting so hot that it warps the rotors. The extra wear on the rotors leaves them too thin to be lathe turned for re-use. That is why almost all MB's with OEM pads and rotors have lots of brake dust on the wheels.

    I switched to PBM pads and rotors over a year ago, on my 2001 E320, and not only do they work as well in non-racing situations or on non-mountainous roads, they generate almost NO brake dust. I only have to clean the wheels every 3-4 months, not days as with the OEM parts. Another benefit is that the pads and rotors cost about 40% less than the OEM parts. :D
  • zeenzeen Posts: 401
    Just bought a pre-owned 2003 E320 (out of warranty) and I have a bunch of questions as I fix up this vehicle. It's in good shape but little things need to be fixed.
    My first issue is the switch for the moonroof. It works fine but the gray plastic switch cover is missing. I have to use the black plastic skeleton to move the roof. I was told the switch cover cannot be purchased separately and that the entire roof unit needs to be replaced for about $350. All this for a 50 cent plastic switch cover about 1.5" square.
    Any suggestions on obtaining just the switch cover.
    Also, I heard there is a TSB for some front bolts that may need tightening. Anyone have any info on that.
    I will have more questions as I go along and appreciate your help.
  • dandgdandg Posts: 91
    Looking at BMW 5 series,GS and the MB E series for a used,under 40k miles 02-04 car.Wife has a RX330 and although not perfect wants to keep it so I would prefer to by something with a different badge then Lexus and like the look of the MB the best si I sense I am ready to roll the dice.
    Question is,after reading all three manufactures threads on here the MB E class seems to have most complaints.While on Ebay surfing( there is one guy in Phoenix who seems to have several) I see several MB factory Buybacks that have been repaired by factory for everything from Battery(?) to SRS,Brake and various Eletric problems.Has anyone ever gone that route and with all I have read here would you think there is even mre risk of a lemon.
    thanks in advance
  • Telephone:

    Aurora Auto Wrecking Inc

    9217 Aurora Ave N
    Seattle, WA 98103
    (206) 524-8700

    They are the number one place in NW to get parts. Cost are very good.Not like east coast... but very good. Would help if you had some type of part number... if not they will still help you. GOOD LUCK!
  • zeenzeen Posts: 401
    I assume you were responding to my message about the switch. I will give them a try. I am in the Northeast but perhaps they would mail the part to me.
  • zeenzeen Posts: 401
    Is there a way to remove the headlight cover (or to access the interior of the headlight assembly) to clean the lenses? I noticed the lenses have spots on them either from leakage or condensation.
    Also, I too have a radio issue. It starts getting static and it gets louder until the radio cuts out and I get a message "Error cannot establish audio connection". It happens sporadically. Any advice is appreciated.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Posts: 336
    Latest issue of the MB Star magazine covers this subject. The article stated that ONLY MB coolant is to be used because of the complexity of the differant components in the system.Also do not use "works with any system" type of coolant.

    If you want to keep on top of the latest info recommend that it is a good idea to join MBCA. Only $45 per year.
  • zeenzeen Posts: 401
    Found out I cannot access the internal lenses. I also found that the radio problem cured itself. So, as it appears that no one is reading this forum anyway, who gives a damn anyway?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Well, I dunno if no one is reading this conversation, but it looks like no one is here who can help, at least not so far. Try asking in our Got a Quick Technical Question? discussion. The folks hanging out there are pretty sharp.

    Good luck - post back and let us know!
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    I left a message asking if anyone knew how to do this.... No one replied and I figured it out. Mercedes has put two plastic access pieces; one on each side. They are held shut with two plastic screws on each side.

    Raise the car using a floor jack, WEAR safety glasses, as you open the doors, dust/dirt drop down. Use a flash light locating the back cover of fog light housing. Remove the black cover. The bulb is held in place the same way the headlight bulbs are.

    Mercedes is using a very backwards way of securing the bulbs to housing. What is wrong with very air tight socket type bulb holders that every one else is using. The fog light assembly has several unnecessary pieces to it.

    I am glad I didn't need to remove the large underbody black cover for this. My next project is to replace the coolant. For that, I bet I need to remove the large cover.

    I already made a small cut out in the OTHER underbody cover to access the oil drain plug.

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Thanks for the info - it's bound to help someone sooner or later! :)
  • I bought certified pre owned 1999 E 320 with 48k miles in in 2005. Dealer replaced front rotors as part of certified pre owned preparation. Had to replace both rear window regulators. One covered by extended warranty, one not. Also had crankcase balance failure, dealer had tsb/recall in system, covered by warranty. Replaced all spark plugs at my expense to have it run like it is supposed to at a cost of $600.00. Have 72 k miles on it now. Replaced OE tires with irelli P 6 tires. Performance and handling are excellent,like a new car. Get the warranty
  • I bought certified pre owned 1999 E 320 with 48k miles in in 2005. Dealer replaced front rotors as part of certified pre owned preparation. Had to replace both rear window regulators. One covered by extended warranty, one not. Also had crankcase balance failure, dealer had tsb/recall in system, covered by warranty. Replaced all spark plugs at my expense to have it run like it is supposed to at a cost of $600.00. My email(s) to dealer to share cost of plugs since failure caused spark plugs to be fouled were never acknowledged. Have 72 k miles on it now. Replaced OE tires with Pirelli P 6 tires. Performance and handling are excellent,like a new car. Get the warranty
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    I'm on my second Starmark Certified E320 and would recommend buying a used Mercedes ONLY with the Starmark warranty and buy some extra time so you get the full benefit of the 100K miles based on your miles/year. Both of mine have required expensive repairs in the 70K-90K range and the Starmark warranty has covered nearly everything. One exception is that a catalytic converter that failed at 84K was NOT covered since they claim they only cover that up to 80K miles.. I always thought all emission equipment was covered to 100K miles by Federal law.

    Why wasn't your second window regulator covered? Had you gone over the time limit on the warranty?

    I've also had great luck with Yokohama tires..
  • scottinkyscottinky Posts: 194
    one of my local upscale used dealers has a beautiful E320 wagon for sale. Loaded up!
    Sat., Nav those vented seats. Car has 42K on it, still under factory warranty. I currently
    have an 03 Nissan Pathfinder, which has no warranty left, and has been a reliable
    SUV, although somewhat expensive for regular maintenace (brakes, belts, etc..)
    am I asking for trouble to consider such a trade? Doing all this reading on these boards
    scares the hell out of me.
  • scottinkyscottinky Posts: 194
    i went and looked at this car sat. nice ride, kinda beat up. the salesman tells me
    he has a 4matic in tectite coming this week. It's at the local MB dealer getting brakes
    and serviced, 42K miles, for 31K. Might go look at it friday. Doesn't anyone visit
    this board?
  • bottomsuppbottomsupp Posts: 11
    If it was the same dealer who gave you a line on previous vehicle… be careful. Tire pressure may have been at 25/27lbs for smoother ride... (run @ 36psi for max fuel mileage).

    Possibly agree on 4matic… IF dealer pays for the FULL cost on the 7year/100,000 mile balance on MB star-warranty! Be sure the dealer doesn’t sock you with “this fee-that fee”…

    Ask to look at previous title... AND run title search...

    MB's are more than fun... but you need to do your homework...
  • scottinkyscottinky Posts: 194
    offers their own 7/100 with indy MB mechanics for 2K. they sell a lot of high end
    autos. I will definitely call the MB dealer with teh VIN and get the car's history.
  • e320kinge320king Posts: 1
    The 6 + 1 Compact Disc in my car shut down with no warning. The computer does not indicate any malfunction and of course, the book does not give a clue of what is wrong. Have anyone experienced this problem. If this is a chronic problem, why Mercedes Benz does recall it?
  • benzlovabenzlova Posts: 1
    e320king, During this past winter my system had the same problem. My system was fine after I warmed the car first and drove it. Once I turned it off for a minute and started it back up without warning it would shut off when I got on the road. I took it to the dealership and they replaced it without any hesitation.
  • My 1999 E320 had had similar issue two or three times in last year. Try removing and checking in trunk CD changer to make sure CDs are loaded properly, etc. Sometimes hitting a jarring bump in road will cause this miscue. I tried CD cleaner disc just to see if that helped.
    Usually works after you put cartridge back in and close unit up properly.
  • Thanks for the advice on the Starmark warranty and Yokohama tires information.
    The second window regulator failed two weeks after the warranty limit expired.
  • mario19mario19 Posts: 1
    hello guys, i Have been through all this pages, and the more I read the more confused I get. Just bought a E 430 a week ago, and I am so upset. Yesterday the car shut off while I was on a red light, without a warning or nothing. I tried to start it I couldn't, than after some time the car did start, but I had the "Check engine" on. I noticed a bit of vibrating on the car, while on "P" gear. The next morning the car started normally, but the RPM while the car is on "P" gear, is very high, 10-15 Rpm. I have no clue wat this is, the car has 41k miles on it. Not sure if its a battery problem, or a alternator problem. Anyone had the same issue with a E-Class?
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Posts: 336
    To begin with there is no P gear. P is gears involved. Next--- it is normal for a higher RPM when the car is started cold. This is to get the car warm so that emmissions will be lower. Car should return to normal low RPM within a minute or so after starting.
  • recently bought e350 wagon - they seem very very noisy have had the same problem on my 2004 e500. the dealer has tried changing blades and super clening the window surface. anyone have the same problem and a fix?
  • los292los292 Posts: 1
    i have a 98 e320 with 52,000 miles on it i have experienced at times when i hit the break ( not necesarily hard ) when i m going anywhere from very slow 10 miles and hour to sometimes slowing down coming up to a traffic light 30 miles and hour or so ) the car lurching foward very quickly has the sensation of slamming the breaks and maybe the abs locking up it happened about a year ago more than once so i got it looked at and the mb dealer said it had something to do with the rear tranny memory to the anti lock breaks something like that they fixed it several hundred $$ later .. a few months after that it happened again i brought it back and they couldn't find anything wrong with it didn't happen when they tested it again this happens very infrequently and it it not when i am necessarily going fast or on slippery pavement any thoughts ? pete
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    I just changed the anti freeze in my 2001 E430 with 90K miles. The MB coolant has such a faint pink color to it, it is hard to see in the expansion tank where the level is.

    Does any one really think that the engine/gaskets will be damaged if the system is completely is flushed out of MB coolant, and latest version of Prestone coolant is used?

    I have a very tough time believing that every car maker out there must have their own coolant. The cost difference is like $12 a gallon. The money is not the issue, I don't care for the MB's clear color.

  • pfentonpfenton Posts: 16
    I have owned three MB vehicles over the years and I was informed never to use the regular antifreeze as it doesn't meet MB specs and contain the necessary anti-corrosives and
    ph neutrality that MB coolant does......Is this true? I have no idea, but I don't care to take the risk! Good luck!
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