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Chrysler Sebring Convertible



  • We own a 2008 Sebring Convertible, and whenever my wife drives it in the rain it will stall, 30,45,55 mph, it doesn't matter, it just cuts out. It has a 4 cylinder, automatic. I'm getting no love from the dealership about this. :mad:
    Any suggestions?
  • mpfimpfi Posts: 5
    edited March 2010
    I have a 2007 Sebring Sedan, 2.4L - 4 Cyl, stumbling during acceleration when raining. The Sebring's computer is not posting any error code (or Check Engine Light). The first Chrysler dealer inspecting the car recommended a new throttle body; part replaced but did not solve the problem. After this, I replaced the MAP sensor; did not correct the problem. A few days ago, I took it to the third dealership where a new set of spark plugs was recommended and installed. However, this morning it rained a lot around here and the car began missing/stumbling again. I am heading back to the dealer. :sick:

    Any ideas?
  • Did any now where i can buy the cover i can put when i have the roof down, ?
    i am in Norway but i think better to order from us,,,

    pl tell me if osme now..
  • t_intnt_intn Posts: 1
    I have an 2003 Sebring, when I cross a bridge or an overpass it jumps (like it is out of gas or the transmission is going out) and the engine light comes on....anyone else having this problem?
  • I had a similar problem. When I accelerated hard, I had the bucking sensation you described. When the problem got worse, it even happened on low acceleration on level ground. The problem was the camshaft position sensor. There should be an error code saved in the computer. Go to an auto parts store store that will read it for free. I had difficulty finding the part so I just took it to the dealer to replace. There was nothing in the Haynes manual on replacing the device. If you have a mechanic you trust, you might give him a try. If you are handy with tools, you might try a Chilton's repair book or one of those online services. I think Checker had the part. Look on line before driving around. Good luck :shades:
  • tchado1tchado1 Posts: 3
    Anyone know what is the thing in the "box" between the rearview mirror and the handle of the roof? I started hearing this rattle comming from there, so I opened it up and it looks like some sort of magnet or something... it stopped making the rattle for a few days and now its back.
  • reg48reg48 Posts: 4
    The passenger side interior door panel on my '96 JXi has detached at the top - any suggestions on reattaching?
  • gordy10gordy10 Posts: 2
    I am interested in buying a Sebring convertible but want to pull a boat with it. Anyone have any experience with towing with this car?
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel a Certified Edmunds Poster.Posts: 13,585
    IIRC the towing capacity is about 1,000 pounds so unless you have a small boat and trailer I wouldn't try it.

    2008 Sebring Ragtop, 2011 Hyundai Sonata.

  • i have the same problem with 1996 sebring,i was told it was two problems causing this,the first is the M.A.P sensor and the other was my catalytic converter was bad and causing my engine to misfire and stall out in the middle of traffic,mostly after coming to a stop. so try these and if all else fails go to autozone and get a free diagnostics reading,thats how i got my answer,because the damn dirty dealership refused to fix the recall,also note that the diagnostics reading says it was a factory defect and chrysler still refused to fix it. and also check if there are any recalls on your car. hope this helps
  • charlessrcharlessr Posts: 11
    my sebring 2002lxi top goes half way(almost) and stops...If I let it go back down and wait and try slowly goes up all the way.....any answers?
  • mpfimpfi Posts: 5
    edited July 2010
    Sorry that it took me so long to share the solution to this case.

    Problem gone after the fuel pump assembly was replaced. Please, note that no computer code or check engine light came on at any moment while the vehicle had this problem; the fuel pump pressure was perfectly correct as verified by the dealer service dept.

    Along with the new fuel pump, two other fuel tank related parts were replaced as recommended by the dealership service manager and a repair tech: a valve and a plastic lines assembly. These two additional components were related to the fuel EVAP recovery system at the fuel tank.

    The $700.00 plus repair investment (parts and labor) was done "at risk" since there was no check engine light present as previously stated.

    Additional details: Sebring 2007, Base Model, 4 Dr, 2.4L, Approx. Mileage at the time of this repair: 63 - 64K miles.

    Other parts unnecessarily replaced prior to the final solution:

    MAP Sensor
    Throttle body assembly
  • There is a thread elsewhere that addresses this point. I have the same problem with my 2002 sebring convertable. You have air in the Hydrolic system. I disassembled my system an burped and topped off the system and it worked great. It didn't take long to come back. If I leave the top down for a few days, the problem comes back. If I leave it up for a few weeks, it goes away. The problem is a leak in the system. There is a lift, hose, fitting or the pump that has developed a leak. Since I live in the dessert, I am waiting for cooler weather, ambition and money to start replacing parts. Good luck.
  • I'm considering purchasing a 2000 Sebring JXi convertible. Price at dealer is $3900, mileage is 124,000. Is there anything I should be aware of as far as common issues with this model? It's a good looking car, but I can't afford to get stuck with a money pit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

  • dklynn2dklynn2 Posts: 6
    edited August 2010
    I have a 98 that I've had since 2000 and I love it. Remarkably little maintenance (KNOCK ON WOOD) except "normal" stuff like battery, tires, brakes, etc. until sort of lately (but I just went over 100K mi). Unfortunately late repairs mostly on the $1K level :( - back side window quit and it needed both a new motor and something else ($800); headlights (they get translucent and then are like $300 each (!!)); rear view mirror (have had to replace twice but got on eBay)... Now I need a new top (but I notice most folks around me with canvas tops don't have same problem - rotted out thread (NOT the canvas)). But bottom line is I will drive it until it's not fixable - I love the lines, the convertible, the back seat you can put real adults in, big trunk, reliability (see above wood comment). If you want to know more, send me your email address. PS $3900 is a steal, if it's in good shape - get a mechanic to check it out and maybe CarFax for wrecks, ask owner (and look in his eyes). :)
  • bxle44bxle44 Posts: 2
    The best thing to do is to remove then reinstall the panel. Typically the panel is removed to fix a window motor or something and reinstalled incorrectly.
    It's fairly easy if you know where all the screws are. There are several resources that describe how to remove this panel.
  • shp5313shp5313 Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    I have a 1998 Sebring, 2.5L, V6 and I can not get a reading or a response from the OBD on the code reader. I was told that it was a fuse but I have checked all of the fuses that I can find. Can anyone help me?
  • reg48reg48 Posts: 4
    Looking for procedure to change a '96 Sebring JXi water pump - any suggestions?
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    A Haynes Manual for that vehicle should have the procedure in it. Check out Autozone or one of the parts stores that sell the manuals. Good luck.
  • kimf1kimf1 Posts: 3
    edited March 2011
    I took my 1998 Chrysler Sebring Convertible JXI, to the dealer for a diagnostic (as no one else could tell me what was really wrong with it). Well, $300, in testing later, I was told that the problem was with the PCV Module.

    I am paying $1,130 for tests, module, and oil change. The dealer recently called me and said that the module was now doing fine, they re-tested and said I now need a new distributor. They stated that was the problem all along, they basically said that the distributor messed up my PVC Module and that is why they could not find the problem when I first got the diagnostic.

    Now, it is going to cost me $1,640. Is what they are telling me actually true? Am I just being ripped off? I do not have money to burn and this was very upsetting for me. Should I believe them? Please advise. Thank you.
  • reg48reg48 Posts: 4
    Thanks for the response last August; I'm going to finally fix the panel now. Can you identify the resources that you referenced?
  • I have a 97 chrysler sebring convertible I need to replace my BCM know. It is located behind your fuses on the driver side door mine is blue. Do you know where there is cheap BCM the number 4671224AD help
  • stennstenn Posts: 4
    Sorry no, I stopped putting money into it, it got to expensive, good luck
  • reg48reg48 Posts: 4
    Looking for a source for replacement grey leather seat cover (bottom only) for my '96 JXi - any recommendation?
  • i just bought a 2000 sebring jx convertible and my back window is in with gorilla tape. were you ever able to find what works to seal the back window.
  • charlessrcharlessr Posts: 11
    i used super glue at one time....but the part of the fabric covering the lower part of the glass windo ..keeps coming apart....I wonder if some type of epoxy might work.....they want far too much to replace the rear glass assembly
  • dklynn2dklynn2 Posts: 6
    edited April 2012
    I found no successful methods and ended up replacing the top after the car flooded (water runs into a reservoir behind the back seat and sits if the drains are plugged (as mine were), causing the floor pan to repeatedly fill up...ugh!) I found a new canvas top (installed) at a local top shop for $1100 - can probably find for less if you shop around. (PS i replaced the whole top because most of the thread in the piping, around the window and some of the seams had rotted out - found no one willing / able to resew or install a new window w/o taking the top off, at which point you may as well replace. Vinyl is obviously a lot cheaper.)
  • neonitisneonitis Posts: 11
    eroosejx00: On the window of my 2006 Sebring attached to vinyl convertible top, i used Household Amazing Goop, purchased at Walmart for like 4 or 5 dollars. The vinyl was coming apart from window in most places, and window would shake while i was driving. The top part of the window was not a problem , so i just used that goop on the lower part of the vinyl top where it's glued, pressed, whatever the factory does to the vinyl top window. I went ahead and took the whole lower part of top loose from window, and used the goop thru from left to right. Just put about an 1/8 " bead, then press firmly against window. To keep together for over 24 hours to cure best, i used that clear packing tape across the window and vinyl top. It has been holding great for over 5 months wiith no problem even when i have the drivers windows down traveling over 50 miles per hour. Try it, should work fine. David
  • nstreetnstreet Posts: 1
    Cam sensor is part of the distributor, its a $300 item got to get the distributor, (Mitubishi) sebring V6 is prone to distributor problems and distributor electrical issues due to location of the distributor. Chrysler was going to have Distributorless ignition on this motor but decided against it because Mitsubishi wanted too much more money for it.
  • charlessrcharlessr Posts: 11
    1. I would like to second the motion for the "goop" solution to the back window of the the top.....I did mine in stages working from the sides toward the middle....the top has been up and won a number of times and in some pretty good rain storms...working well...

    2. last spring I had a problem with the top going up....I was told the right cylinder was bad and it was the top goes up half way ..then stops...I put it down and try again and it slowly closes...someone said that it may be that the fluid has air bubbles.....anyone have experience with this??????
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