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Nissan Quest 2004+: Problems & Solutions



  • cirrusscirruss Posts: 87
    Well, I looked into alternative replacement tires. If you own a SL model, your tires are 225/65/16 (Goodyear Eagle LS2). If you own a SE model, your tires are 225/60/17 (Goodyear Eagle LS - I think).

    For the SL model owners (like me), Nissan really screwed us with this because this tire is the only one on the market with this size. There are no other brands on the market that have this size. I am thinking 215/65/16 will work as a replacement. The diameter is the same, but the width is short 10mm but should work for this rim. With this size, you have plenty of choices. You can also consider 225/60/16, but the diameter will differ and effect your speedometer and mileage slightly.
  • cirrusscirruss Posts: 87
    Pepperman - if possible, can you find out more as to the fix because i have experienced similar AC problem. As for your 3rd seat rattle, did they perform the fix as per the TSB - replace both latches.
  • peppermanpepperman Posts: 9

    I gave them a copy of the TSB with my list of things I wanted done. I can only guess that they acted pursuant to it. Whatever they did, it stopped the rattle (they may have just put duct tape on it!)

    Now that I look at my invoice, it would appear that the technician only "adjusted" the rear seat latches. I'm okay with it so long as the rattle stopped, which it did.

    As for the A/C, all I can say is hang in there and be persistent!!!!! Remember, mine took about 4-5 times in to get it (finally!) fixed.


    Sort of cryptic notes, I know, but if you and your technician can make anything of it, maybe it's worth a try. Ours was repaired 12 days ago, and we've had several days since then in the 90s, with 100s expected tomorrow and through the weekend. It seems to be holding its own, and keeping us cool.

    BTW, a friend of mine in my same town bought a Quest about a month after we did, and his a/c works (and has always worked) fine. I can only guess, then, that it is NOT a design flaw with all the Quests, but something wrong with the individual vehicle--good for us b/c there is hope of a fix!

    Good luck, my friend!
  • cirrusscirruss Posts: 87
    Thanks for the info. The cars A/C usually has a high and low side. The low side is the return line back to the compressor. Guess they found a leak on your return line and fixed it.

    As for the 3rd row seat, mine rattled and they wrapped the latch with foam tape but later saw the TSB from Nissan stating that the latches should be replaced. I will prob remove that foam tape and bring in the TSB so they can fix it right.

  • emmittobieemmittobie Posts: 13
    Hello there. Good to hear all these informative posts. I had the exact same problems with my A/C that you did pepperman. During 80 degree weather and above, the A/C felt lukewarm at best. I had them refill the freon and all was fine for a week or so. Then once again, the cooling disappeared. They gave me the same song and dance about it cooling to normal specs. They ran a UV leak test and did not find anything. The single beep sound you heard from your car is definitely present on mine as well. I thought that was normal but I guess it might not be. I will have them take a look at what they did for your car and I hope this resolves the issue. I think this will be my third or fourth trip trying to get them to resolve the A/C problem. Thanks for the helpful information.
  • mwokesmwokes Posts: 10
    Just curious, did you have to pay to have the rotors re-surfaced or did the dealer do it under warrenty? Had the front rotors replaced on my '04 SL @ 4200 miles, now have warped again at 16500 and the dealer says it is normal wear and tear.
  • llegg1llegg1 Posts: 2
    My 2005 Quest is currently at the dealership and has been for a week. I definitely have this annoying whistle sound coming from mine. They took the mirror off and it is not coming from the mirror. Bad news is they don't have a clue as to where it is coming from... If you got yours fixed let me know what it was.
  • cirrusscirruss Posts: 87

    You had the rotors re-surfaced at 4200 and now at 16500. That's crazy! What symptoms are you experiencing? Is the dealer certain that it's warped. Every time you machine the rotors it will get thinner and thinner, and less metal mass and therefore warp easier and easier.

    My van has a problem with steering wheel vibration, and sometimes steering wheel shakes uncontrollably when braking (only sometimes). I am drawing my own conclusion that most of this is due to the garbage tires that came with the van. The tires may be out of round and making driving experience terrible. I am not ready to let the dealer machine my rotors until I am confident that my brakes always pulses when braking.

    I actually have a friend that works at Nissan in the service department, and he tells me certain Nissan models (Titan) do have a rotor warp problem, but he hasn't seen any Quest come in with this problem. By the way, I also have a 95 Honda Accord with 160,000miles and still on the original rotors, and it brakes for the dealer to say this is regular maintenance...BS, and where is it Nissan's maintenance schedule that the rotors need to machined every year!!!??! You should ask your service advisor "Do you and all your coworkers machine your rotors on your car every year?"
  • plashenickplashenick Posts: 165
    I have had mine resurfaced (only) at 16,500. It is 'mwokes' that had it twice.

    I did not pay for this, but under NJ Law everything is covered - no matter what - until 18,000.

    If dealer wants to charge know your rights and your state's laws
  • cirrusscirruss Posts: 87
    Ooooops, my bad...should have read carefully :)
  • mwokesmwokes Posts: 10
    I didn't have my rotors resurfaced at 4200 miles, I had them replaced, and only the fronts. Now my dealer says that all 4 rotors need recut, and my rear break pads need replaced. They say the thin pads in the back are causing the rotors to heat up and that is causing the warping. I think that they just left the normal Altima break set-up on this vehicle and it is too heavy for it.

    Any idea where I can find out if PA has coverage on the breaks like N.J.??
  • park3850park3850 Posts: 10
    Does anyone know how to clean the center console surface without screwing it up? jb
  • cirrusscirruss Posts: 87
    I would say windex is pretty safe, depending on what you are trying to clean off.

    If you are just trying to clean off some dust, then a shop vac would be fine, that's what I do.
  • willzywillzy Posts: 1
    I am having EXACTLY the same problem with my 2004 Quest. I have had it in twice now for steering wheel vibration and the 3rd appt is already made. My tires have worn down to nothing at almost the exact mileage as yours BUT due to the alignment or whatever issue that is, my RF tire is completely bald about 2/3 of the way around. Now I HAVE to buy new tires. I probably only had a few months left on them anyway.

    We bought a 2004 Maxima on the same day and that has Continental tires on it. The miles is almost the same as the Quest and the tires have more than twice the tread left on them. I just show my wife the difference on Saturday.

    Any info on this? Is it the tires or the does the Quest have a problem?
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,441
    I'd try just a damp cloth first. Then a mild cleanser for such surfaces...don't know if I'd use windex though.
  • sh86894sh86894 Posts: 4

    There is a reason that your tires are wearing down so quickly on the van. The tires that come on the vehicle have a UTQG of 360AA which is probably the worst "wear" rating you can find. Oddly enough the tires are also rather expensive at about $105.00 each and due to the 360 rating will predictably wearout again very quickly.

    In my opinion you ** SHOULD NOT ** purchase these same tires when you inevitably need to around 20K miles at the latest.

    So... what to do? Buy a different brand with a better UTQG/cost ratio. Here is how you calculate such a thing.

    Take the UTQG and divide it by the cost. Here is the OEM tire:
    Goodyear Eagle LS2 @ $105ea.
    P225/65R-16 99H NIS (31514)
    360 / 105 = 3.43 ratio.

    This means that for each dollar you spend, you get 3.43 of wear. This is essentially meaningless until you compare it to another tire. Here is one of the best deals I found (note that the OEM is the worst extreme and this example is a very good extreme)

    Cooper Lifeliner Touring @ $65ea.
    215/65R-16 98T BLK (27325)
    UTQG: 620AB
    620 / 65 = 9.54 ratio

    So with this example you get 275% more tire wear per dollar.

    Now your only problem is finding what size tire to buy because the OEM size only has one tire available... The goodyear 225/65/16 LS2.

    You will have to make your own decision here, but I did some research and found four tires that are within appropriate size specifications for that car. Each of these have multiple options and will get you a much better tire than the OEM Goodyear. Note: As a general rule you should avoid goodyear. They typically have very poor wear ratings for the price you are paying.

    PLEASE NOTE: This is my own personal research and represents rough notes that I kept during the process. You are responsible for making your own decision regarding the tires that you buy. Also, each of these are based on the 16" rim, not the 17" available on the higher priced Quest. I figure those guys can afford $550.00 for crappy tires :-)

    235/60 R 16 $80/up and 12 tires available
    (27 x 9.25 x 16)16"9.25" (235mm)27.10"
    (688.40mm)-0.41" (-10.50mm)
    .39 Wide .41 Short and off by 1.53% High

    215/70 R 16 $90/up 5 tires.
    (28 x 8.46 x 16)16"8.46" (215mm)27.85"
    (707.40mm)+0.33" (+8.50mm)
    .4 Narrow and .33 tall and off by 1.2% low

    225/60 R 16 $55 to $100+ TONS (34) of tires
    (27 x 8.86 x 16)16"8.86" (225mm)26.63"
    (676.40mm)-0.89" (-22.50mm)
    0 Narrow .89 short and off by 3.33% high

    215/65 R 16 $60 to $100+ 15 TIRES AVAILABLE
    (27 x 8.46 x 16)16"8.46" (215mm)27.00"
    (685.90mm)-0.51" (-13.00mm)
    .4 Narrow and .5 Short and off by 1.9% High

    225/65 R 16 $105 original tire, 1 tire with
    terrible rating
    (27 x 8.86 x 16)16"8.86" (225mm)27.52"
    (698.90mm)+0.00" (+0.00mm)
    This is the original tire with a horrible 3.5 wear
  • sopecreeksopecreek Posts: 203
    Do you need replacement wheels for 235/60R16?
    I want more stability when cornering. Tell us your experience when/if you get them.
  • cirrusscirruss Posts: 87
    sh86894 - Thanks for the very good info....this will help many Quest owners.

    sopecreek - The info posted above is for using the same wheel. If you replace the wheels, then you are incurring additional cost and loose the tire pressure monitoring function.

    I looked around the web and mainly used the website and found the Kumho ECSTA ASX to have good price ($70/each) and good performance. This is for 235/60/16. Keep in mind this different sizing will slightly effect the mileage and speedometer reading. For this size, your tire will have to spin 767rev/mile. OE is 756 rev/mile. Or if your speedometer reads 65 mph, you are actually going 64mph.
  • sh86894sh86894 Posts: 4

    The OEM wheel will work for all the tires I listed.

    As for tires, I just bought a set of four Cooper Lifeliner Touring 215/65R-16 98T BLK (27325) from Discount Tire / American Tire

    They had a wear rating of 620 (80,000 mile warranty) and it cost me $312.00 out the door including mounting/balance/tire waste.

    This size is 0.4" narrow and 0.5" short. So when your car says 65 you are going 63.5 mph.

    The tires look great and I drove it home 20 miles on the freeway and they are smooth and quiet. The 235 tires were my first preference because they would give you an extra 1/2 inch instead of losing a 1/2 inch like I just did, but the cheapest I could find them was for $480 out the door and that was with a lesser wear rating. I couldn't justify spending an extra $170.00 for that extra little bit of width.

    If you found some for $70.00 then you may end up with a better wear/cost ratio.

    Best of luck... my Quest has new tires now and I shouldn't have to think about it for at least 5 or 6 years.

  • codechimpcodechimp Posts: 3
    My wife and I recently bought an '05 quest and the 3rd week we owned it we noticed that there was a lot of surface corrosion on the anchors for the 3rd row bench seat. Has anyone else noticed this. I took it to the dealership today and there response was "It's just surface corrosion". Rust on a brand new car in a place that holds the seats in, is not an "only" to me. I'm thinking 3 years down the line what if the seat falls off, or becomes locked in place. The rust appears to be on the outside, and I'm thinking a layer of rustoleum or paint would easily prevent this. The dealership agreed that they would call Nissan and see about replacing the seat, but only after trying to convince me that this was normal, because many of the other '05's on the lot had the same issue. The service manager actually said "What if we replace this and it happens again, then what should we do"? uh, replace it again. Just wondering if anyone else has had similiar issues and what they did about it. Is this recall worthy?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I used the Armor All wipes to clean the dash and console as well as the trim. Worked well./ I imagine using regular Armor All and a cloth or sponge should work well. For the seats, I used a regular automotive upholstery cleaner.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    If it is surface corrosion, a coating of rustoleum is probably fine. Ask if they can do this for you and make sure it is documented on the repair ticket along with your concerns.
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Posts: 160
    I just went out and checked ours, we have no rust. Our van is over a year old and all black shiny painted metal. Where 'exactly' do you see this?
  • codechimpcodechimp Posts: 3
    When you fold the seat flat into the floor, If you look at where the seat attachment disappears into the plastic side panels. This is the top part of the anchor that attaches to the frame of the van, The corrosion was around the outside of the "socket" that allowed the seat to pivot. Is yours painted? Is your van an '05? I wondered if maybe Massachusetts had gotten a bad batch? as it seemed like such a simple solution to just paint it. Unfortunately this piece is part of the seat, so the entire seat needs to be replaced. I'd be interested to know if this part is painted on other quest's.
  • Has anyone had problems with getting the light strip on the running boards to light up? Our van came with the running boards already installed--we didn't realize they were supposed to light up until we had it home for a while and read up on it. Now the dealer tells us they aren't supposed to light up, but they look exactly like the ones that do and also have an electrical connection that is plugged into the van! Please help us if you can! Thanks!
  • sopecreeksopecreek Posts: 203
    If it's Nissan running boards for the Quest (04+), it should light up. During the daytime, I cannot tell whether it's lit or not. In the dark, the strips on both sides light up when I unlock doors with remote and really help entering the van. The light does not stay up while you are driving, I believe.
    It just looks cool, too. I receive comments from friends whenever they see the light come up. They love it.
  • Nissan has always used too small rotors for its cars. When they are too small they heat up during use and they warp. Another way to save Nissan money.
  • Wet carpet here too. Only happens when the rear seat is down in the well.
  • nevrbtrnevrbtr Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Nissan Quest that runs like a dream and am looking at adding a trailer hitch to pull a small trailer with two dirt bikes. Is it possible to add a trailer hitch to these and is there a weight limit that if you exceed could damage the vehicle? :D
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Posts: 160
    There is foam sound proofing around mine, but, when I pushed the sound proofing material back, I did see this surface rust. However, all visible parts are painted black. This is only visible when pushing this back and struggling to see it. This is such a thick piece of metal, I'm sure the van would be gone before the seat is weakened from any rust, ha.
    You'll find many other posts, on other forums, where much more of the seat metal is visible and rusting, on other models from various manufacturers, so, I wouldn't worry about this. One post I read once, don't remember the manufacturer, spoke of the rust visible in the drivers seat and this rust would get on their clothes.
This discussion has been closed.