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2013 and earlier-Subaru Forester Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • tazzitazzi Posts: 23
    Elk Grove Subaru was the dealership offering the $3402 off. Maita Subaru was offering $3189 off as well.

    I bought from Autowest Honda in Roseville because they were closer to me and had the limited version.
  • tazzitazzi Posts: 23
    Oops...make that Autowest Subaru - not Honda. Sorry about that!
  • Just turned in 08' Outback Lease and decided to try a Forester this time...

    Deal was this:
    MSRP 26,189.00
    Cap Cost 23,900.00
    Out of Pocket 322.00 licence Reg
    36 at $275.00
    62% Residual is 16,237.18
    Money Factor .00215
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Look at that residual, sweet!

  • umvasumvas Posts: 1
    Need help!! Is it a good price.

    I am getting 2011 Forester 4dr Auto 2.5X Premium w/All-W Pkg & TomTom Nav Price with following options

    Backup Camera,
    auto dimming mirror w/homelink and security sensor,
    all weather floor mats,
    Popular Equiptment group 1A -inc: rear bumper cover, platinum cargo tray, luggage compartment cover, splash guards

    for MSRP : $27,060
    Final Dealer negotiated price $23,500 + TTL + Taxes.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,921
    Seriously? A price of $23,500 on that MSRP? If this is the car you want, I think it would be downright foolish to pass while trying to holdout for a better deal. ;)
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • which dealer gave you such good offer? I really want the same deal ,could you give me some information . .thx
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Posts: 194
    Has anybody had problems with closing the rear hatch?
    It has to be slammed hard for it to completely close otherwise you might leave it
    partially opened overnight or longer, which isn't good for the battery.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I think you can adjust the position of the latch, at least that was the case on my 1998 model.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,921
    Yes, I have. It can be a real PITA sometimes. Most of the times it is great, but every once in a while.... :mad:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    I have to slam the rear hatch as well but I would not adjust it. If it is not tight enough, you may get a squeek from rear hatch rubbing against the rubber hatch seal/weather stripping, when car body flexes in turns.
    In my opining, the right way to "slam" it is to hold it/pushing it, while closing. That way you don't really drop it from wide open position .... you don't want the rear window pop out, while closing it.
  • The cargo tray in the rear must be pushed forward or the hatch will not close. I had same problem. This worked.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I wonder if some velcro or other anti-slip on the bottom of the mat would keep it from sliding back again?

    That has happened to me, too.
  • rear bumper cover, splash guard kit and a/t. this is the alaska price, i guess. i know that i got robbed, but i wanted the vehicle. each extra feature kept raising the price. dealer would not move at all. sticker was 26,149. this vehicle better be running until i die.
  • first thing i noticed -- had to shut it about 5 times -- kept waiting for the little red light to go off. 4 speakers in xprem are not too hot, either.
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    edited January 2011
    Actually, if your car comes with rear cargo tray it does have a non-slip carpet-like pad under the cargo tray. Alternatively, you can go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy the same non-slip kitchen drawer liner, cut it in size and put it under the rear cargo tray. It's like a rubber mesh looking non-slip liner. I have it all over my storage places in my car to prevent stuff from sliding around.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Our 2009 has that.

    My old 1998 model did not, so the tray would slide back and interfere.

    Not surprisingly, the 98 would not latch at times, but the 09 always does.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,921
    edited January 2011
    Sometimes I literally have to slam mine with all my strength to get it to close. Both of my license plate lights have stopped working as a result. It really pisses me off, frankly, but I have not adjusted it because I would be more annoyed by a constant hatch rattle than I am by the occasional need to beat my car into submission. It is definitely not an issue of object interference.

    Considering how easily it closes most of the time, I suspect it is an issue with the latch mechanism sticking.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • wow, i just got the premium auto with awp with rear bumper cover and splash guard kit -- for 26,983 out the door. i paid way too much for this.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,921
    edited January 2011
    Where did you buy your car? The local dealer here (only one with in 350 miles) will not budge on price either. I ended up taking a 2200 mile trip to get mine, and saved $2500 doing it (after factoring the cost of the trip!).
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • I bought it in alaska. Im not very satisfied with my buying experience, but i'm hoping my subaru can live up to the hype. Ive finally got about 1000 miles on it, but the average fuel consumption is terrible.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,921
    Yeah, you can't get a decent price in Alaska. I make a quick jump down to Seattle for mine. It was absolutely worth it and I would do it again in heartbeat.

    If you are in Fairbanks, I highly recommend switching out all fluids with full synthetic. Your differentials, especially, will create much less drag in the cold weather and give you probably 2-3 mpg better economy once it dips under zero.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • I am in fbx. I was wondering if the cold would impact my mileage. My oil cap says 0w-20, but kendall swears only turbos require synthetic. Will have to see about the costs. Ive heard regardless of change, once i put synthetic in, theres no going back.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,921
    edited January 2011
    No, you can go back, but I never would. Synthetic offers better protection and better cold flow. My 2010 asks for 5w-30; I give it 0w-30 synthetic, with the transmission and differentials receiving 75w-90 synthetic. So far, the worst winter tank has been right at 19 mpg, and that was last month (December), which was, on average, much colder than any previous winter month we have seen in quite a few years. Not stellar, for sure, but better than the 16-17 tanks I used to see in previous Outbacks before I started using synthetic fluids.

    So far my calculated average for 22,000 miles is 23.2 mpg, with the warmest six months (April through September) at 25.19 with 9634 miles driven and the colder months at 21.77 with 11636 miles driven. The summer average was drug down a little by our annual dipnet trip, which was 1100 miles pulling a trailer and averaging 17.8 mpg, so that month was 20.7 mpg while the rest were 25.0 or higher. Without that month, the summer average is 26.7. All in all, it is respectable for the way we use the car.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    edited January 2011
    Lic.plate lights stop working most likely because you were closing your rear hatch with those lights on. It is a common knowledge, for example, when investigating airplane crashes, those bulbs, that have their filaments broken, indicate that those bulbs where on at time of impact.

    You may have noticed that most cars (no all though) that have lights with bulbs on their rear lids or hatches are designed in such a way that those lights and bulb are not on, when lids or hatches are being closed (like back-up lights, for example - those would not be on, when you are closing the hatch). You can judge the well thought-design of any cars, if they are properly designed, that these lights or bulbs are not on, when those hatches or lids are being closed.

    I don't think it is an issue with the latch mechanism sticking. They are designed and assembled with exact tolerances and torques so that other components (such as air bags sensors and car body flex) are not compromised.
  • I found this thread very helpful when trying to figure out what to pay for our new Forester, so here is our contribution for our purchase in FL

    Forester 2.5x Limited w/protection group 3 and pop eqpt group 5B
    MSRP $27,859
    Invoice $25,955
    Paid $25,755
    Add non-negotiable dealer "prep fee" of $499 (common among dealers here) and in reality we ended up paying $26,255, $300 over invoice

    We could've gotten a better deal had we not traded in a vehicle, but that is where we ended up after some haggling. If you're not trading in, my recommendation would be to factor in dealer fee and shoot for invoice as the bottom line.
  • I bought the same car (without backup cam) about a month ago for $24,800 +Tax. Your price is really good! I got mine in Oklahoma.
  • 2011 Forester Premium X Manual 5 spd
    All weather package
    Rear Bumper Cover

    Negotiated price of $22,700 includes destination $725 and a PZEV fee of $300.

    Consumer Reports had the bottom line price at $22,200, but I saw nothing about whether that included PZEV. So that could really have been $22,500.

    Out the door $24,500ish. 6.25% sales tax, title, license and a $275 dealer doc fee (UGH).

    How did I do? I'm really wondering how close I got. The PZEV thing threw me, I couldn't find much good information on this. All the Foresters on the lot seemed to have it. I don't know if you can get a non-PZEV Forester in Mass.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    You did fine, the dealer's gotta feed his kids. :shades:

  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Bought a 2011 Forester for $19,552 plus registration. No sales tax in Oregon.

    MSRP was $22,247.

    2011 Forester X 5 speed
    * Alloy Wheel Value Package
    * Black Roof Rails
    * Rear Bumper Cover
    * Security System Individual Shock Sensor
    * Splash Guard Kit

    Very painless process at Carr Subaru in Beaverton, Oregon.
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