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2013 and earlier-Subaru Outback Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • looking to pull the trigger on an outback 2.5i auto. i live in the sf bay area (peninsula). any recent price points to share would be MUCH appreciated! thanks.
  • free8135free8135 Posts: 3
    I bought 2.5.i CVT base model from Oakland Downtown Subaru for 23300. no hassle pricing which beat all other Bay Area dealers.
    ask for Ike and I bet you would be satisfied.
  • ksm12ksm12 Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    I looking to buy 2011 Outback Preimum Auto(CVT) with All Weather Package.
    Price MSRP 26,760
    Invoice 25,194.

    Dealer is quoting 24,503 which includes Dealer Handling.

    Is this a good deal

    thanks a lot
  • Can anyone recommend a good dealer in Southern California? I'm considering a 3.6 Limited, and the best quotes are $800 over invoice which seems high compared to what others are getting here. It seems no better than a "Costco Price".
  • tmg4p00tmg4p00 Posts: 12
    edited June 2010
    I think that is a very good price on a brand new model year. It basically includes dealer holdback and marketing $$$. That should be well below the invoice listed on Edmunds.

    We just bought a 2011 premium with CVT, PVEZ, and All-Weather for $24,400 plus dealer handling, tax. MSRP was $27k and change. Financing dept was able to get us the 2.9% on the 2011. Also threw in all-weather mats for free and rear bumper cover for $40.

    We bought from a volume dealer in Colorado Springs, CO though the internet dept. Very happy with everything about the purchase. We will enjoy all the Outback has to offer this summer, and everything the Co winter can throw at us in 6 months!

    :shades: Good luck and enjoy the OB!
  • a4sfa4sf Posts: 11
    Hi, I was wondering if anyone can offer some advice about buying a 2010 vs 2011 outback at this point. I am looking at a basic 2.5i CVT or possibly a 2.5i Premium CVT. I'd prefer to get a good deal on a 2010, but in terms of discounting at this point in the year, what would be a good target price in my negotiations relative to invoice?

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    2011 is supposed to get a folder side mirror, one complaint about the 2010s.
  • dim109dim109 Posts: 2
    Can anyone recommend a dealer/salesperson in or around NYC?
    Thank you,
  • ksm12ksm12 Posts: 2
  • fasttexfasttex Posts: 24
    edited June 2010
    Big Frank, You seem to have a bit of incorrect information. Dealer holdback ($$$ paid to the dealer to help with the interest payment on the inventory) is about 2% of INVOICE, not retail. Sales commisions are generally between 20 % and 25 % of profit, (Selling price minus invoice price) or a minimum or "Mini" of $100. I don't know how you make a living but it doesn't take a math degree to find out how many cars you have to sell to pay your bills. There is an incentive from Subaru that pays $100 to $175 per car in addition to the commission. This is dependent on the survey scores received from the customer. There is very little incentive to sell anything at a loss and who in their right mind would sell a bunch of cars at a loss? Edmunds says Outback 3.6R at MSRP = $32220, invoice = $30209, TMV = $31587. AWD Honda Crosstour at MSRP = $34730, invoice = $31257, TMV = $31972. See very little about buying experience, just a lot of bragging about price paid or walking out of a dealership. Poor sales guys that sold all these cars at these prices, their customer service must be worth only a $100 AFTER the sale!! :mad: :mad: :mad:
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Posts: 426
    Holdback is absolutely calculated off of retail not invoice. Besides 45 years in and around the car business I have 2 invoices in front of me showing retail, invoice, holdback and advertising, among other info. It is retail NOT invoice.

    While some dealerships may have a "Mini" as you describe I know many salespeople who get peanuts on each sale, and live off the volume bonuses. I personally know some salespeople who got as little as $5 on a sale but made it up with their monthly bonus. I also know some salespeople who have worked at dealerships where the "Mini" was $25.

    The incentive to sell at a loss is to move product inventory and free up some floor plan expenses. This is only possible with national or regional incentives to the dealer and/or salesperson. Future allocations are also dependent on volume, so they get more product down-the-road. Dealers want lots of product available for sale but also don't want to have it sitting around in a crowded lot.

    You are of course free to believe what you want, but I have bought 2 2010 Foresters this year for well below invoice. I also had 2 bids from 2 different dealers on an Outback where the price was also well below invoice. Other dealers wouldn't come close to this. Some dealers will sell this way and others not, and conditions and timing have to be right. Also, every vehicle sold is not done this way, some buyers are willing to pay much more than others, especially if they need financing and are only concerned about the payment. A bad economy helps the buyer tremendously.
  • godeacsgodeacs Posts: 481
    edited July 2010
    Actually, you're both wrong...OK, partially right! Most manufacturers calculate it off of MSRP but Nissan, Kia and Hyundai calculate it off the invoice price. Guess it's a spli decision for bigfrank since this is a Subie forum and the majority do use MSRP to calculate..... ;)

  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Posts: 426
    Ok, I can buy that. The invoices I was looking at were for Subarus and my previous experience was with Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, and Ford, never the 3 you mention. Thanks.

    I will also add that I was talking to my Soob salesman last night and he confirmed that at that dealership the "Mini" is $100 per vehicle for his regular pay, and he can make up to an extra $200 per vehicle paid quarterly, based on the matrix of volume and scores from customers. That quarterly bonus is in fact paid directly from Subaru. The "Mini" comes from the dealership, and he said he gets it even if they don't make that much profit on that particular vehicle. He said that on average the dealership makes lots of money so the short deals don't hurt. As I have always said, dealers make their money on the used cars, and that is what allows them to pay the bills and keep the doors open. On used vehicles he generally gets significantly more than the "Mini".

  • rdyrdy Posts: 36
    edited July 2010
    Generally - BigFrank is of course correct on Holdback calculation.
    I was wondering how long it would take for the rebuttals to show up.
    There will always be exceptions of course, but generally a mini is accepted to be $100.00

    I am surprised this issue I documented in a previous post, has not attracted more attention. - eering-wheel-shake.html

    There are naysayers of course, but it's real and it's painful.
    If it didn't exist, then SOA would not be issuing a TSB this month. I can only hope for your sake your new OB does not develop this issue over time like so many have reported.
    I have deferred my purchase until I see how the TSB and resulting fix plays out.
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Posts: 426
    I agree on the wheel shimmy. I canceled my Outback purchase and bought another Forester instead.

    I noticed the shimmy on the Outback I drove on the highway. The first one I drove was a 4cyl and I never took it out on the highway, and I ordered a 3.6. When they got one in stock I drove it even though it was not one I wanted, and found the wheel shake. I then did some research and found a bunch of info at I followed the proceedings and the pain those that had the shakes went through to try and get it resolved with almost no joy at all. That's when I canceled the Outback. I love the new Forester and haven't looked back once. My wife just bought a new Forester Limited, that's number 7 between the 2 of us.

    I hope the pending TSB fixes the problem for those inflicted with it because otherwise it is an excellent vehicle.
  • We are looking to buy a 2011 2.5i CVT. The Dealer quoted 24,220 plus registration tax and a $349 "Administration" fee He said this fee includes his commission. I know the TMV doesn't include the tax and registration. Does it include the 349 Administration fee? I'm not looking to squeeze every $ out of the guy I just want a fair average price. Any suggestions for dealers in the Boston area?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,910
    edited July 2010
    That fee is dealer-added. Many dealers do this, but you only pay that if you are willing to pay it. If not, keep negotiating. Tax, title, and license are state-driven and are the only non-negotiable fees.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    For me, yes, the TMV should be the bottom line price, minus tax and tags.

    People often beat the TMV so if a dealer is still adding fees then IMHO they are being greedy.
  • rdyrdy Posts: 36
    "I'm not looking to squeeze every $ out of the guy I just want a fair average price"

    Why not - He is happy to do it to you.
    Admin fee, dealer prep fee, salesman's vacation fee, are all bogus.
    Commission is not in any 'admin' fee. Never has been, never will be, because there is no such thing.
    It's just 100% extra margin and he's seeing if you are willing to pay it.
    If it's killing you, donate that money to your local homeless shelter in the dealers name and give him a name check.

    Don't worry, you are still leaving $$ on the table even without paying bogus fees.
  • fungjowfungjow Posts: 4
    Could you tell me who offered you this deal?
  • hratmsuhratmsu Posts: 5
    Has anyone bought a car from heuberger motors in Colorado Springs. They seem to have the lowest prices in the west.
  • easypareasypar ColoradoPosts: 192
    I personnally didn't buy there, but know someone that did, and I know there is at least one poster, or lurker on here who did. I probably could have saved another $300 or so by going there, but it's 120 miles each way from my house so I didn't think it was worth it. Looking at their web-site prices they are lower than any other front range dealer. Can't speak to their service department.

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,910
    I considered buying there, but ended up buying from a dealer in Seattle instead. The pricing was comparable, but the drive home to Fairbanks was an extra 500 miles from Colorado so it did not make sense to spend an extra $75 on fuel and many added hours on the road.

    The person I contacted at the dealership was prompt in replying to my inquiries, but customer service never became more involved than that.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • easypareasypar ColoradoPosts: 192
    An extra 500 miles? From CO Springs to Seattle? More like 1500 I would think.

    Plus a flight from Seattle to the Springs, at least one night in a hotel, etc.

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,910
    No, I was headed to Alaska; it is an entirely different route, but you're right, probably more like eight or nine hundred miles' difference. No hotels for me, I'm a real traveler! :P The only cost other than fuel is food, and I had more than enough with the two loaves of bread and PB/J I picked up.

    But anyway, the point is that the price of the cars were all but the same, so the Colorado car was more expensive to get home.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • outbackbuyeroutbackbuyer Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    Here is a strategy for buying this car. It worked for me.

    1. Figure out what model and options you want at a dealer. Test drive the car.
    2. Leave.
    3. Go to Von Bortel web site (find with google). Price your car and options. They will give you a very aggressive price. Now you know the price to shoot for.
    4. Go to and find cars matching your requirements.
    5. Pick a dealer at the limit of how far away you are willing to drive to pick it up. Out of state is better. Call them. They will know they have to deal. Don't worry about service. Any dealer will service your vehicle.
    6. Make it clear that you are far away, and that you are concerned about that. This will give them an incentive to deal.
    7. Repeat this process with a few dealers, moving closer as your negotiating improves. You do this every 2-10 years. Car salesmen do this 5 times a day. You need practice. They don't.
    8. For this to be effective, you need to sell your trade privately. Otherwise, they will lowball the trade.

    Here is how this worked for me on a $27,020 sticker price Outback with no trade:

    I didn't do step 2 and negotiated very badly./ Bottom line price: $26,000.
    Van Bortel price (5 hour drive away): $25,164
    Dealer 50 miles away: $25,000
    Dealer 15 miles away: $25,298 (sticker is $27,065)

    I went with the last offer - they had a red one ;-). The $25,000 offer was the first offer from an out of state dealer. The last offer was the second offer from the last dealer after I laughed and said the first offer wasn't even close.

    Note that these prices are all including conveyance fees, not including about $100 in legitimate plate transfer fees. Sales tax is not included.

    Dumb me, I thought I had a deal with the first dealer at a $150 better price and the sales manager smelled blood and jacked up the price at the last minute. I should call him and thank him for ticking me off and "forcing" me to go find a deal $700 better.

    One other note about my miserable negotiating with the first dealer. Once I thought I had a deal, I confessed that I had sold my car already and I was driving my son's car. Tell salesman as little as you can about your situation, and do not fall in love with a car.
  • 1hhead1hhead Posts: 18
    Dude, I like your style. Despite what we all see on TV, capitalism is not dead.

  • mrgoodwrench69mrgoodwrench69 Posts: 5
    edited August 2010
    I just got back from Test driving a 2011 outback today at the dealer. I was then shown a 2010 2.5i Premium that had been used as a loaner vehicle. This 2010 outback has 2,300 miles on it, includes the weather/ climate package, no moon roof. Saleman tried to sell it to me for $24,900, I offered him $23,000 out the door price with all fee/ taxes included. They countered with $24,300 out the door with all taxes and fees, I walked out. Is $23,000 a good price for this Outback? Again it has the 6speed automatic, heated seats , power driver seat.Thanks for any input. Waiting on dealer to call me...Forgot to mention, this includes a 6 year / 100,000 mile powertrain warranty, plus free inspections and loaner car for life of vehicle..
  • fasttexfasttex Posts: 24
    I doubt very much that he will call you back. Look at the TMV price for that vehicle. He offering to sell you that vehicle at well under TMV price for a Certified Pre-owned Outback. If it were me I would wait about two days to call you back and see if you had reconsidered your unrealistic offer. I would call him back Monday and jump on that! !!
  • ... agree w/ fasttex ... if he's under TMV for a CPO and he's selling it to you titled as a new car w/ a 6/100 Subaru extended service contract on top of the factory warranty, I'd jump at it ...
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