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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair



  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    on a set of rotors is great? Is that because it's a truck? On a car that would stink. My old 4Runner's rotors went way longer than that. On my current one (2000 V-6 4WD) the rotors are the originals at 67K, no problems so far, no warping.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    On modern cars with the mickey mouse rotors they put on most of them, yeah, I think 73K is outstanding for the average driver, I really do.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • agnostoagnosto Posts: 205
    I agree, I used to have an 1999 4Runner LTD V6 4WD and I had to replace the original rotors around 10k miles and the 2nd time at around 25k miles... so now I hope with my 2006 4Runner LTD V8 4WD to get at least 50-70k miles on the first original set of rotors.
  • iwangs04iwangs04 Posts: 22
    Hi all,
    I have an electrical problem on my 95 4runner. Whenever I press the brake or turn the signal light or use any instrument that has to do with electric/power, the voltage/battery meter does a quick drop or a jump to low. When it happens, the CD player would stop working for a few seconds.
    This problem has been happening for couple months now. At first, it was less noticeable, until I found out when the CD player stopped playing. I have checked the battery cables & cleaned them. The problem goes a way for a few days. So each time I adjust/tighten the terminal cable (positive side), the problem is temporarily fixed.
    The problem has grown bigger and become a big concern. At times while driving, the engine light and rear ABS light flash on when brake pedal is pressed. Another issue that at times when the ignition switch is turned to ACC (from ON to shut off the engine), the power is loss or the power is so weak that the clock is dim and the radio can’t even operate, because of insufficient power. And likewise when the ignition switch is turned to ON, engine not running, the power is no there or the lights on the dash board do not come on. If the key is left in the ON position, the power/lights on the dashboard will come on in a few seconds.
    The strange thing is that it does not happen consistently or continually. For example, if I press the brake-pedal several times within second intervals, the problem is only occurred on the first press. The subsequent press seems to be minimal affected. It’s intermittent/sporadic problem with short circuit or perhaps a bad relay.
    I took the car to a Toyota dealer other day. Dealer tested the battery and alternator system, they are all ok. Also checked wiring and related parts, connections are ok and found no wires worn creating short circuit. I was able to show them the problems, but they were unable to duplicate during the test and can’t find the root cause. :(
    Any helpful insights and suggestions to fix this problem are much appreciated.
  • I have a 1991 4runner with the 3.0 v6. The engine runs great an i have no problems with the truck. It also has only 91000 miles but is getting only 14 mpg. I bought the truck last November and since that time I have changed the spark plugs, fuel and air filters, and took it to a shop and had the mechanic check for any codes or problems. Is this just the mileage that this truck should get or is something wrong with the truck that doesn't throw up a code? Any help would be appreciated.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    if your driving is mostly short trips in town, and if you have the larger 31x10.50 tires, it is highly likely you would only get 14-15 mpg.

    I was at around 16-17 mpg in mine, which was a stick-shift 4WD, and I mostly drove on weekends/longer trips.

    iwangs: sure sounds like a short or a bad ground. Do you have any aftermarket stuff installed?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • you are right about the driving and the tires, it also has four wheel drive. as far as aftermarket stuff goes it is completely stock, even the original cassette player. maybe you are right about the mileage, just seems like it would get better mpg than that. thanks
  • ggoinsggoins Posts: 57
    I would replace the battery, cables and connnectors.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Oh, in that case, I am sure there is nothing out of the ordinary. There was a period of two weeks or so when I had to lend my car to someone else, and used only my 4Runner for daily driving - short commute, local errands, lots of short trips - and the mileage was abysmal. I had to fill up like two or three times and never got more than about 15.5 mpg, with a low of around 14.5 as I recall.

    Mine was a 4WD, V-6, stick shift, 1990 model with the same powertrain as yours.

    I traded up to a 2000 last year - whew, what a difference the 3.4 makes in available power, especially on the highway and at altitude! Does several points better for running fuel economy too - I'm averaging about 19.5 mpg.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • treitz1treitz1 Posts: 5
    I have a 1995 4 Runner. Diagnostic Code 71, shows EGR problem. Can I fix this myself? I don't want to sink a lot of repair money into this car, which runs good, but has 140k miles on it. Any thoughts? Thanks. tom
  • iwangs04iwangs04 Posts: 22
    Wish that i can help and i don't know what EGR problem is. I have same year 4runner. Mine hasn't had this problem, but it has other issues. You may want to expand little more about the problem and perhaps someone may have come across with your problem.

    Good luck
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Check the vacuum lines to the EGR valve before you go spending any money. Chances are, given the age, that one of them is cracked or broken, and replacing the hose may fix the problem.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • I am also having the same issues with my new 4Runner. I have 400 miles on it and it the brakes have been buzzing/vibrating since I got it. Of course the dealer says they cannot duplicate the issue... I opened a case with Toyota and am working on the service manager next. Right when I thought Toyota's service and quality was better than the rest they disappoint me. I plan on taking this as far as I need to to get it fixed, I don't care if it costs them $2000 to fix, it is a brand new car!
  • Does anyone who has this problem live in the Irvine, CA area? Thanks
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    You're not going to like this, but...

    They all do that. I believe what you are feeling is the electric pump for the brakes.
  • grahmmgrahmm Posts: 28
    Be sure and opt for the factory service contract if you decide to purchase one. The Toyota plan is excellent (I know from both sides/retired Toyota service manager + owner of Toyotas). After market plans might seem good and the finance people love to push them because of the hefty spiff they receive. The dealer will honor the Toyota plan without a concern while there are a lot of problems associated with some of the after market plans. Depending on location a "mom and pop" store can probably use the plan for covered repairs but why would you risk your transportation needs with a vendor usually using non factory parts and ill equipped from the knowledge side. Most shops are trying to fix many many brands and type of vehicle with a fly from the seat of the pants attitude and the results are not always what you would like. When I was younger I was a technical trainer for one of the countries largest automotive service providers. I switched to the dealer level and it was then I realized just how little the secondary service sector knew and right up until I retired last year it held completely true. I can take my vehicles anywhere that I would like to have work done at a discounted rate but I still take mine to a Toyota dealer. It does make a huge difference. All you have to do is see the difference year after year dealing with and trying to help other people who have opted to have things done the "cheap way" or gone to someone they thought knew what they were doing. I've seen too many engines/transmissions replaced from the quick lube "experts" along with countlees other horror stories fro independent garages. In an age when ASE certifications can be received by junior college students with no practical hands on experience it makes it hard for the consumer to judge.
  • ggoinsggoins Posts: 57
    anyone know why cars including the Runner have very dark driver and passenger window dark tinting. Dealer in AZ says they do not do it as here and in CA some DMV policy says not...but virtually every car I see has it....
  • uphill3uphill3 Posts: 2
    I purchased a used 2003 Toyota 4runner SR5 4x4 about a month ago. While driving, the brakes are squeaky on the right hand side of the vehicle when the brakes are not applied. When I apply the brakes the squeaking sound disappears and the brakes work perfectly. I have taken the vehicle to the dealer and there is plenty of brake pad and the rotors are not worn. Please advise.
  • I am trying to figure out how to depressurize the fuel system to replace my fuel filter in my 1995 V6 4 runner. I have a manual that says to disconnect to wiring harness from the fuel pump but doesn't tell me where it is. I've spent over an hour looking and need help.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 410
    This is just a basic recommendation. Pull the fuse or battery cable as I believe the circuit might always be hot. This varies by manufacturer, but safety cannot be overlooked. Write down your radio presets if you pull the battery cable. The fuel pump is probably in the gas tank and you don't want to be messing with it. Removing the gas cap will release pressure, but it may be unnecessary as a vacuum may develop causing draining through the fuel line if the cap is opened and the filter is removed. My former 1986 Toy P/U had the fuel filter so well hidden it was just easier to pay a shop to do it, and I had to leave it there as repair shops won't work on it until the vehicle hasn't been run for several hours. When in doubt, job it out. :)
  • treitz1treitz1 Posts: 5
    That is what I thought too. Did not have time over the weekend, but I will post if I can fix it. thanks.

  • '93 4Rnr with Anti-Theft on cassette door. After 4 1/2 years the battery went dead causing the SEC light to light up on radio after replacing the battery. I set the code years ago but tried all my favorite 3 # PINs to no avail (even tried last 3 of VIN). Now radio says HELP. I was provided with 2 three digit codes that supposedly will unlock it but don't know key combo to get it past HELP display. Man, I can't remember stuff from last year --- much less from 5 years back! When entering the codes there is apparenty a 10 second time frame to do so -- I may have entered correct code but too slowly. Radio is worth maybe $20 so not worth dealer fix of $79. Has anyone reset code -- and can ya tell me how. Private message fine.
  • Does anybody have a copy of the TSB on rattling moonroofs on an 03 4 Runner? What does the dealer do to repair this rattle? Mine is out of warranty and I guess I will have to do it myself.
  • I have a question: Should one, as a matter of course, replace the timing belt tensioner when replacing the timing belt? The vehicle is question is a '97 4-runner V-6, mileage is right at 100k, timing components all original. I'm thinking it would be smart policy, but what does the maunal say?
  • grahmmgrahmm Posts: 28
    If the dealer has addressed chances are there is no hardware issue (contact with rotor as it rotates)or caliper issue of riding to tight on the rotor (the rotor would typically be discolored and a pull would probably be present). Semi-metallic pads are basically ceramic with bits of metal ingrained into the pad to provide the stopping power and longevity. Two possibilities:

    1- The portion of the pad now wearing through is heavier in metallic content at that point causing the scraping noise you hear (mostly the cheaper the pads that have been installed the louder they can be/usually stopping power is ok).
    2- Sometimes in high humidity or wet conditions a patina rust can build up on the rotor as quickly as overnight, It can "sing" at slow speeds and give a slight "grind" type noise and slight slipping sensation on pedal application. It's annoying but not really problematical.
  • After bringing in my '06 2 times to the dealer, they claim it is design problem. The issue I am referring to is when you press the brake pedal 2 or 3 times, the accumulator pump "refills" and the pedal gets a nice vibration in it. If it is design, it is a very poor design.
    Anyway, just thought I would post this. Good luck on yours.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    I would only replace it if it is getting noisy. The manual does not say to replace the tensioner automatically.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • Thanks for the input! I'll handle it from here. See you next time....
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    c2computer: the dealer's explanation is the same as my understanding. It really is one of those "they all do that" things.
  • grahmmgrahmm Posts: 28
    It would sure beat replacing everything involved if the tensioner should fail and shred or drop the belt. That could be a huge problem for you.
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