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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair



  • bigsur06bigsur06 Posts: 3
    Mr Shiftright:
    I read your reply to andrew17 about A/C expansion valve in message 1787. I bought a 95 4runner this weekend and had exact same scenario he described.
    What is a reasonable cost to expect from a repair shop for that, also saw a valve on ebay for 20 dollars for Camary. Is this an item that is the same for all Toyotas A/C or model specific? During my research I read on some models Toyota it is under dash, is that true for 4Runner. My 4Runner is 6cyl model, am I correct in assuming system must be pumped down valve replaced and system recharged (12 or 22?) thanks for your help!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,334
    Here's some info on AC systems that might be helpful to you:

    It's really hard to diagnose from a distance, so I really can't encourage you to just be buying parts that may or may not be an issue.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • bigsur06bigsur06 Posts: 3
    Thanks Mr shiftright/ main question is if expansion valve what is reasonable expecatation for repair shop cost?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,334
    It rather depends on the reason for the failure. If they find the expansion valve clogged up with dessicate debris from the dryer, then you need to clean out the entire system and replace the expansion valve and the dryer. Also depends on where the valve is and how hard it is to get to.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • rebel96rebel96 Posts: 2
    I've been getting vibrations when I get around 40 mph. It gets worse the higher it gets, but then I get off the gas pedal the vibration goes away. It's only at the higher speeds when I'm applying the gas. I had the tires balanced and rotated and it's not the alignment because it only happens when I'm pressing the gas. Basically, when I'm applying torque to the driev shaft. I'm thinking it may be the u-joints loose at the pivot. If I have it fixed at the shop how much do you think it'll cost. They'll probably have to take apart the drive shaft. Thanks advance for the help.
  • blov8rblov8r Posts: 567
    I like to recommend that if your battery is about 5 years old or more, replace it;

    Here in the desert the heat devours batteries ... for those living in the hotter climates I recommend routine battery replacement no less often than 3 years. Bart :shades:
  • bigsur06bigsur06 Posts: 3
    UPdate to problem: A/C during daytime after five minutes blows hot/ can restart engine and A/C still the same:..however if you use at A/C at night will blow cold constantly. I know the answer is to only use at night, but I would like to use during the day of course. Any idea what causes that diffrence at night and day, also system had refridgerent added at purchase.
    Thanks for any help!
  • calvinycalviny Posts: 13
    Sometimes, I can only shift 1-3-5; and 2&4 can not be engaged.
    Or, only the 2&4 can be engaged; not 1-3-5.

    After I have made a completely stop & shift around for a couple times..then, it works fine.

    I am suspecting that the synchronizer ring/worn shifter hub; is it correct..and, can I just only work on the gear box instead of taking the whole transmission out...
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    or maybe it is just the linkage between the stick and the transmission?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • amy55amy55 Posts: 2
    I have a1990 4-runner. I am the third owner. I have not driven it much because I have problems starting it. The starter has been replaced, has new spark plugs, and other work has been done. Once it starts, it runs very good. The problem is just getting it started. I read about the keys and codes, and spoke with a locksmith. He said this does not affect a 1990 model. I like the vehicle, it has almost 200k miles, but the motor is strong. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • rebel96rebel96 Posts: 2
    check if the air flow meter has any debris on it. if there is any debris on it, it causes starting problems. I would also recommend getting the throttle body cleaned.
  • bobgordonbobgordon Posts: 156
    Amy, could you clarify "starting problems".
    Do you mean that when to turn the key, nothing happens? Like a totally dead battery.
    Or the engine does crank over but fails to stay running?
  • caderomcaderom Posts: 3
    Hi Amy, I had the exact same problem in my '92 4runner. I also replaced the battery & starter, had a tune up, new spark plugs etc but still it wouldn't start. So my husband and a friend of his just started checking every wire and reconnecting them. We aren't sure which wire it was but they must have reconnected it tighter or something because I haven't had a problem with my 4runner starting for over a month now. :) I wish I could be of more help but maybe if you could have someone just go through your engine and make sure all your wires are plugged in tight enough. Mine would start every other time or so which would make since if a wire was barely connected. GOOD LUCK! I know how frutsrating it can be! :mad:
  • amy55amy55 Posts: 2
    Hi: by starting problems I mean that it tries to start but does not "catch". I thought it was because the weather was so cold. Once I could get it started it, if it did not run the battery down, it would be fine. During cold weather, forties and below, I would have to start it every two hrs. otherwise it might not start when it was time to go home from work. I gradually kept getting worse, and people kept working on it.
    Now I just cannot get it started unless I use starting fluid. If I can get started that way tomorrow, I will take it to a different mechanic and leave it there. Sometimes I did run the battery down trying to get it started. We replace the temperature sensor ? but I was told it has to be reset and the mechanic would be the one to do that. I am just trying different things. Several mechanics have looked at it and they are all puzzled.

    Thanks for any suggestions.
  • bobgordonbobgordon Posts: 156
    Amy, since you say that it will start with starting fluid (and be VERY careful with that) it sounds as though you have a fuel delivery problem.
    Have your mechanic connect a fuel pressure tester when the engine is cold and make sure it's within spec's.

    The other thing is to have your mechanic hook up a scanner and observe ALL the ECM (computer) functions. Again when the engine is cold. It could be that the ECM is seeing a "warmed up" engine and it's not.

    Good luck and keep us posted.
  • calvinycalviny Posts: 13

    Are you meaning that the clutch pedal freeplay to be adjusted???
  • kirknkirkn Posts: 4
    Update -- took the vehicle twice to my dealer and you guessed it -- the dealer claims it's normal or that it can't be duplicated. Seems as if a TSB has been issued for the Lexus GX 470 (TSB #DL001-06) with identical symptoms. Although greasing the slip yokes and spiders appear to reduce the clucking, it really doesn’t help with the constant vibration that the vehicle experiences.

    In any case, I've engaged a law firm and intend to take Toyota to task. Will communicate the outcome.
  • rsmith262rsmith262 Posts: 1
    When I first turn on my 4runner, I get a humming from a sealed unit located next to the brake fluid reservoir (master cylinder)for about 3-5 seconds. I cannot identify what this part is except that it is a sealed metal unit that is about 2.5 inches around and about 5 inches high. The only identifying marks is a warning that the item is under gaseous pressure. What is the part? And any help with troubleshooting is appreciated.
  • beercoll1beercoll1 Posts: 88
    I will be towing a trailer shortly, which weighs approximately 2000lbs. did you have any trouble installing the ball mount assembly onto your 2003 4runner? I have a 2003 4x4 V8 sport Edition.
    Thank you.
  • ericbechoericbecho Posts: 4
    I own a 2006 4Runner with about 20,000 miles on it. While braking in a parking lot (speed under 20 mph) I applied the brakes, the 4Runner started to speed up, I applied a lot more brake pressure, the 4Runner lurched a foot or two then stopped completely, and then the engine reved up to 5000 rpm or so and came back to normal when I placed it in park. Anyone have any idea what happened? Has anyone had this problem before?

    Just an aside I am sure that I was not on the gas pedal at the time. I have had the car serviced at every 5000 by the dealership.

  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 409
    I had the problem before, but not with my 4Runner. It happened twice before I figured it out. My former Chevy K1500 extra-cab had front and rear floor mats that were very similar. I unintentionally reversed them after cleaning the vehicle. For whatever reason, movement of my feet had bunched up the floor mat at the accelerator. Then when braking, I apparently dragged my heel enough to stick the accelerator with the floor mat. The first time I got lucky and had no one near me, but it scared the unowhat out of me and I did not figure out what caused the unintended acceleration. The second time, thanks to a friends advice, I killed the ignition without locking it, and luckily I again came out accident free. But I was petrified as this occured twice in 30 days.

    That's when I noticed the bunched up floor mat. I reversed the front and rear floormats and never had another problem. Don't know why, but the rear mat would slide whereas the front mat stayed put. I surmise this is why Toyota puts floor mat hooks on the driver's floorboard.

    So my question is, are you using factory floor mats and the retaining hooks? That's all I can speculate. I hope you get this figured out, as I'd bet you'll be on edge for awhile when hitting the brakes.
  • ggoinsggoins Posts: 57
    I am planning a trip to Northern Alaska and wanted to get ideas for carrying extra gas as well if anyone has outfitted an 04 with spot lights and wench would appreciate any tips... thanks.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    How northern? If you stay on the road(s), there's gas all the way to Prudhoe. Get a copy of the Milepost ( and it'll tell you where all the gas stations are, even in the boonies.

    Steve, Host
  • ggoinsggoins Posts: 57
    Thanks. North along the 1 to Fairbanks then off road to the East. planning is in progress.... just don't want to run out of gas so I thought to carry 2 five gallon (somewhere). Also a wench for trouble could be never knows.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    If you run out of gas on the road system someone will stop (it may take an hour or three for the next vehicle to come along, but people are helpful in the boonies). Carrying gas anywhere but in the car's tank just seems like a bomb waiting to go off.

    No one calls the highways by number up there btw - the "1" is the Glenn Highway. Except it's the Seward south of Anchorage. I think; never learned the numbers when I lived up there. :shades:

    Steve, Host
  • ggoinsggoins Posts: 57
    thanks....good point.will check with my army buddies. they seem to do it worries.
  • lesm1lesm1 Posts: 1
    I have also have the no A/C blink light. The service garage replaced the solar sensor and it worked for 3 miles. They then replaced the compressor and it still turns off. Sometimes I can turn off the engine and it will restert. Ant solutions here. Thank you. Les
  • hkyhky Posts: 71
    My ac light was blinking with no ac several months back, the dealer replaced the relay and since then it's working fine.
  • drex1drex1 Posts: 41
    My 2003 4Runner (6-cyl) just started some fairly loud squeaking (chirping) from the area of the accessory drive belt. It does this when the engine is relatively cold. Any ideas? I just had the belt replaced about 2000 miles ago.
  • drex1drex1 Posts: 41
    My '03 4Runner (6-cyl) has always made a slight clicking noise from the engine. I am told this is just how the 4Runner sounds and it is from the fuel injectors. The 4Runner has about 33K miles and the clicking sound has increased in volume(at least I think so). The dealer says this is normal fuel injector noise. Any ideas of why the sound has increased at 33K miles? Also, should I do anything about this or just leave things be?
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