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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair



  • I haven't kept up lately and don't know if there is a general fix for this problem yet - but was mulling over some ideas the other night. For those who do have the problem - do any of you have the Valor (sp?) exhaust tip? I've heard one person say that the cabin air intake is too close to the exhaust and this is the source of the problem - so I wonder if getting the chrome/gold whatever exhust tip - which I assume would extend the tailpipe several inches (which may not be true) might help. Also - one might even just take some heavy duty aluminum foil, or thin tin from a hardware store, and extend their exhaust by 3 inches or so - can someone with this problem try that? Could work perhaps... If the problem is indeed too tight a coupling of the exhaust and intake that is. Metal tape might last a week or at least a few days to prove the concept... They get hot so I don't know if duct tape would work for attaching the aluminum foil or tin.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    You may be interested in this discussion: Sulfur Smell from Toyota 4Runner

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • silorsilor Posts: 6
    For whatever reason, I never got a notice on my email that you had sent this wonderfully informative response to my "clunking" problem. I apologize for not responding. Here is the latest; my 2003 V8 4runner was just at the Toyota dealer for 4 full days. I told them the clunk is so hard at times, it feels like I've been rear ended. I'm certain the first day they had my car, no one even looked at it. They finally diagnosed it as needing a new drive shaft. Guess what? They replaced it and it still clunked. So they replaced it again. So we shall see if the clunk persist or if it is gone.

    I must say, I had a wonderful service rep. He knew I was frustrated. And all the work was covered under warranty.

    However, if I feel even one clunk, I am going to tell them exactly what you sent me regarding the Lexus Service Bulletin. I really do appreciate all the great information you sent me. :)
  • Glad to be of assistance. I know the feeling when you try to explain the problem to the Service Dept.

    Good Luck, I hope you get it fixed. :)
  • andrew17andrew17 Posts: 26
    Hi, Bobgordon!
    Thanks for your advice - we bought a Midland brand/18 mile radius/ voice activated unit; at DICKS sporting goods store in Dulles, Virginia, for $69 (last year model, on sale this week, regular price was $129). -You are right, we don't need a speicial permit to use it; a gentlemen in the store was helping us because he had one, too. He told us that in a city we should not expect more than 2 blocks of communication range.

    Thanks again for your help - I hope other people can take advantage of your experiment! =Andrew
  • When I washed my 05 4Runner last Sunday, I noticed the black plastic(rubber?) roof seal (which running from the back to front under the roof rack, and all the way along the windshield to the hood) popped out at the passenger side upper-right corner of windshield. It is easily come out more if you pull harder. I tried to push it back in, but it still pop out a little bit comparing the other side. Does anybody has the same problem with their 4Runner? Will the dealer repair it under the warranty? Thanks in advance for any inputs.
  • bobgordonbobgordon Posts: 156
    DK, yes, they should repair that under warranty. I haven't had that problem on my '06 4R but I do know the strip you are talking about. I'm not sure if there are clips that hold that in place or just pressure of the seal against the roof....let us know what happens at the dealer.

    Andrew, nice deal on the radio. Congrats! :)
  • andrew17andrew17 Posts: 26
    1. Dear Bobgordon: (on walkie-talkie purchase)
    Thanks, Bob! We were relying on your advice/got a good deal - it's all your fault! (As we say it in Europe: now I owe you a cup of coffee.)

    2. Dear Dealkiller! (Roof seal popped out)
    Regarding the roof seal of the 4Runner '05: you must take it to the dealership because it is not possible to push it back by bare hand because of the seal had not been originally inserted the correct way and it is deformed. As it warms up/ cools down, it will work its way out - take care of this annoying issue during the warranty.

    Could you please tell us how did they fix the seal? Thanks: Andrew
  • Bobgordon & Andrew,

    Thanks for your inputs. Talked to the dealer service rep, things went very smooth. He said he will order that part for me right away, and will call me to make appointment when the part comes in. He calls the seal "roof mold". Just like you said (also according to his explanation), that thing will clip into places if you clean it really well before installation. He also said the weather is a big factor on deforming it. To fix it right, you have to wait for warm weather. At installation time, it will stick better if the temperature is high. I'll let you know how things go after the dealer visit.
  • andrew17andrew17 Posts: 26

    The weather is not a factor: they should keep your car inside during the night to let the metal/lining warm up to room temperature, then clean it, and paste it in. That is how cars are handled in the factory.

    Good luck! =Andrew
  • sjhughessjhughes Posts: 2
    I have a 99 4runner that was able to turn over but the engine began losing power and would then turn off. After a few tries I statrted it again and reved it for about 30 sec. and it stayed on and I was able to drive it. I let it sit for about 4 hours and was able to start it with no problems. Any Ideas?
  • andrew17andrew17 Posts: 26
    Dear Sjhughes!
    Please check your fuel pump. When did you change your fuel filter? Could there be some water droplet frozen on the surface of the filter? Do you use any gasoline additives to get rid of the condensate water in the tank? (I use the Techron by Chevron, but there are cheaper alternatives on the market. As I understood: 1, your cold engine tends to stall at low rpms, 2, works after it had warmed up; and 3, there are no warning lights on the dash board.) I assume that it is a V-6 engine. Am I correct? =Andrew
  • I took it to my mechanic and he said that I needed a new mass air flow meter. I found a used on ebay for $100 because a new one was $800. This stopped the idle surging but it still idles high at 1200 rpms when warmed up. I took it back and they could not get it to idle normal. They checked for vacuum leaks and adjusted things up and down with no luck. Any other ideas. Maybe a bad sensor or the computer.
  • bobgordonbobgordon Posts: 156
    Try this;
    Disconnect the (-) negative battery cable and leave off for 10 or so minutes. You'll loose all your radio presets and have to adjust the clock but this may work.
    Then drive your truck for a while so the ECM can relearn.
  • I have a 91 4Runner, and it would seem that the power steering has failed me. For the year and a half that I've owned it, I've suspected that this day would come, as copious amounts of fluid have been visible around the pump, reservoir, and everywhere beneath. It may be possible, however, that the system has finally leaked enough fluid to that I'm running low, and that a refill will fix the problem temporarily (after working air out of the system).

    Question #1: What is the likelihood that the failure is the gasket between the pump and the reservoir? I'd hate to drop a hundred dollars when the problem could be solved for pennies. Is there any easy way to check this?

    Question #2: In addition to the high pressure line and the return line, there are two additional lines that come from the same port on the bottom-passenger side toward the front of the pump (beneath the high pressure line). What are these for? I'm guessing perhaps a brake assist of some sort?

    As always your sage advice is greatly appreciated. :)
  • The dealer ended up with ordering wrong parts (how typical). The mold is actually containing 3 pieces (from hood to front roof rack mounting, between 2 roof rack mounting, from the back roof rack mounting to the end). They only ordered the one between 2 roof rack mounting. They removed it and cleaned the groove. The reason of popping up is because of one piece of beaten-up double side tape has lost its stickiness. The dealer used a new piece of double side tape and put the mold back to the groove. So far so good.
  • gdh3gdh3 Posts: 28
    Help..I need advice on what kind of shock absorbers to go with to replace my current stock shocks on my 01 4Runner Ltd. The ride has really gotten rough as of late. I want a smoother ride. This truck rarely sees agressive off road action. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  • ucscucsc Posts: 48

    Have you changed your coolant recently? If the thermo sensor in the coolant system is broken, you may also get the surging problem.

    I had SERIOUS idling problem in another vehicle after 120K mile service. Sometimes the idle was so LOW that the engine would stall. Sometimes the idle was so HIGH 1600rpm that the car could climb a hill in idle. My solution is: have a NEW idling motor installed and coolant thermo sensor replaced once. This pretty much fixed the problem. But for an old car, I still had to unplug battery to reset ECU several times, clean throttle body every half year to help the engine breath better. Hope this will help.

  • gdh3gdh3 Posts: 28
    Anybody have good experiences to share with regard to shocks and tires that they replaced. I have to replace mine and was looking for suggestions on brands.
    Thanks in advance.
  • nedzelnedzel Posts: 787
    I replaced my OEM Dunlops on my 2003 4Runner with Michelin CrossTerrains. Can't say that I've noticed any big difference (except in the wallet -- ouch).
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 410
    I replaced my OEM Dunlops on my 2003 4Runner SR5 4WD with Bridgestone Revo's. The wet and offroad traction is better, but the overall ride is stiff and bumpy and the Revo's increase the road noise heard from the interior. Everyone driving anything else loves their Revo's, so I've come to the conclusion that Toyota made the front end of the 4Runner too stiff. I was thinking of getting Cross-Terrains for a better ride when my Revo's wear out, but the prior post wasn't reassuring.
  • gdh3gdh3 Posts: 28
    Thank you for the replies. It sounds like you are not overwhelmed by the ride. There are so many choices with shocks and tires and given the expense I would love to hear from others about their experiences. I think Bilsteins have a good reputation for shocks??
  • I have on 06 4Runner with 10k and I have had it in 3 times now. 1st time they told me that was normal.
    It got worse and the 2nd time they greased it which worked for about 1 week.
    Now it is in the 3rd time and they told me that is normal noise that the vehicle makes and will only grease it.
    I don't think a noise that sounds like someone rear ended you is normal.
  • How did you get in touch with the Regional Customer Service Rep? I have been to the dealer 3 times and they basically say there hands are ties and toyota doesn't give them authorization to replace anything, just lube which works for about 500 miles.
  • silorsilor Posts: 6
    I have quite a history of my car clunking. I was told to lube the slip yoke, which will never work at getting rid of the clunk. Several weeks ago, I had TWO new drive shafts installed. The first one didn't solve the problem. The second one helped initially for the first couple weeks. But as of today, my car is clunking again quite regularly and I'm about ready to pull my hair out. I never knew a Toyota product could be such a maintenance nightmare. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT let Toyota push you around on this one. It is a real problem that will only get worse. Lubing DOES NOT HELP.

    Hopefully you have looked at "charlie4runner's" responses. He wrote one to me on January 31, 2007 which I plan on utilizing when I one MORE FRIGGEN time approach Toyota on getting this problem corrected once and for all. Charlie4runner gives very pertinent and extensive information on correcting this problem since he had the same issue.

    I just cannot believe that Toyota had my vehicle for a week and still didn't correct the problem. Stick to your guns. This is a real problem that Toyota is obligated to correct.
    :lemon: :(
  • andrew17andrew17 Posts: 26
    Dear Gdh!
    Please consult a factory trained mechanic before replacing the original shock absorbers with a different type. The curve stability could be significantly reduced by the wrong set. If you check your shock absorbers the bad ones will show a little oil smear at the lower segment, a good sign to watch.

    I check my shock absorbers by pushing down hard at each corner of the truck, if the rebound is "out of order" - I would replace all of them. If the rebound is OK, the problem is in the tire pressure.

    A bad shock absorber would create scalloping (little dents) on one of the tire's running surface; in case of the 4Runner and Landcruiser the right hand side will go first.

    Try to contact our host, "Steve", he always provides reliable advice! =Andrew
  • steverstever Posts: 52,571
    Flatterer. :blush:

    There was a great post here that got lost in the archives that I used to link to all the time. Maybe because some guy in Northern Idaho wrote it, plus he drove a Subaru. ;)

    Anyway the poster had worked as a car designer or engineer for Lexus iirc (and maybe some other outfit).

    The upshot of his shocks/struts post was that the manufacturer spent a lot of time and money designing a shock specifically for the make/model and even the trim line for that make/model. The aftermarket places would design one or two shocks and try to make them fit a variety of applications and that a "universal" fit shock would never work as well as the one custom tuned for the car. So his suggestion was that you always stick with OEM shocks (unless you were going to do a lift perhaps).

    Some companies do test their shocks to match a specific system - Old Man Emu supposedly does. Don't know about Bilsteins.

    There's more over in the Shocking! Talk Shocks here! discussion too.
  • My engine hesitates when I hit the throttle causing it to die. It still drives when I'm easy on the throttle. The check engine light does not go on. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, throttle position sensor, and the mass airflow sensor. What else could it be? By the way it's a 92 Toyota 4runner 3.0 liter V6.I Have done the jumper wire diagnostic also and the code reads normal but the engine still hesitates. It runs like their is something wrong with but it it doesn't want to tell me what is wrong with it. Like I said before, I could drive down the street but problem with it really couldn't get me anywhere. So no stored codes and some parts have been replaced but it still doesn't run great. I am thinking about getting my valves adjusted to see if thats the problem. I can't think of anything else. If you guys have any suggestions that would greatly help me.
  • mike805mike805 Posts: 33
    Sounds like a lack of fuel. Have you checked the fuel pressure. I don't know the exact configuration of the 92 4Runner but there should be a pressure regulator valve that keeps a constant fuel pressure at the manifold and has a bypass back to the fuel tank. If this is bad it may be bypassiing too much giving you a low fuel pressure even though you replaced the fuel pump.
  • Thanks for the information. It turns out that it was a distributor problem. The fual pressure regulator was something else I was going to try to test. My feeling is that no code was stored in the ECM and if their was problem their would be. But I really don't know I am Inexperienced. The problem is fixed finally though.
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