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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair



  • I was probably bamboozled by the repair folks. But hey, I got a new strut that shouldn't be leaking for a long time. And the ride is better. At least I'm forewarned when & if the other struts spring a leak!

    Coming up on my 60,000 service interval in the next couple of weeks. Any suggestions?
  • I have a 1991 4runner 3.0 V6 sr5 standard 4x4. I did the head gaskets last winter and gave it a tune up at the same time. The check engine light came on all the time after that, the code that came up when jumping terminals was 5 3 (knock sensor). After talking with the local Toyota techs, the diagnosis was change the knock sensor (and short harness). Last month I changed it and had some other work that included regrinding the camshafts for a little more jam and new larger exhaust done as well. But that code 5 3 is still showing up and it is retarding my timing dramatically. What is this code trying to tell me? All I know is that it is the knock sensor circuit. What should I be looking at to find out what the problem is? What are some diagnostics I need to perform? I am this close to taking it to the dealer but am scared of the costs. Please help.
  • Another thing I have noticed is that my voltage takes a dive when I put my foot into the throttle, especially at low RPM. The battery and park brake idiot lights come on and everything electrical slows or dims. Could this have something to do with that sensor. I am taking it down for testing the battery and alternator today.
  • Hello all,

    I own a V6 2005 4x2 Limited 4Runner. It's getting close to 45k service. The dealer close to my place charge $ 93.00 for the 45k service which include oil change, brake adjustment, fluids check, etc. all minor stuffs. I feel it's too expensive. I usually do oil change on my Camry. I can do oil change on my 4Runner too. No problem.

    The question is "break adjustment." I don't see it on the maintenance manual. Do I need that? If so, can I do it myself? How? Can someone please give me some advise how to do it or where to look for the information. I have been looking for it online for hours and can't find any substantial info about adjusting the brakes. I am good with my hands and have some experience fixing brakes on toyota and honda sedans.

    Thank you for reading. Happy holidays to all..........
  • Consider asking your dealer what they do during the brake adjustment. There is no adjustment for disc brakes that I am aware. They might check the pad depth but disc brakes are self adjusting. The only other adjustment might be the parking brake but if it is working ok it should not need adjustment either. Sometimes it is good to have the dealer trained technician take a look at the vehicle. Most dealers offer a complimentary multi-point inspection check of your vehicle when a service or repair is performed. They may find something now that may prevent a breakdown or an expensive repair in the future.
  • tbradptbradp Posts: 1
    I've got an 04 4Runner with about 69k miles. When I'm on the highway I occasionally get a vibration that sounds like is coming from the roof. At first I thought it was the moonroof visor but I've since ruled that out. It seems to get worse as the outside temperature decreases. Any suggestions?
  • boats3boats3 Posts: 42
    No but if you figure it out let me know I have the same problem.
  • Try adjusting the roof rack crossrails toward the back of the vehicle. This also lessens road noise.
  • Thanks, I will try to pry out some info from the dealers what they do by saying break adjustment. :)

    I think my brakes should be ok since they did 4k service. That time they charge me $65.00, which is ok. But, $93.00? I can't afford it. I don't know why they went up.

  • Yeah, I would check the roof rack first. For my 05 model, there is a sticker on the rack saying the quietest position for the cross bars. I don't know you have such sticker. If not, check with someone who has 05 model and try to adjust according to it. And I would make sure the screws of the cross bars are tight.

    Good luck....... :)
  • nvntrnvntr Posts: 1

    My '93 4Runner has been slow getting into reverse when cold. This has been ongoing for the past year. Sometimes it just takes a few seconds, and then it locks in and goes in reverse.

    Yesterday, it wouldn't go into reverse at all. I took it to the mechanic, and he said the transmission needed to be replaced with a used one, at a minimum cost of $1,100.00. OUCH!

    A few hours later, I was driving it, and it started going into reverse again.

    Anyone have any ideas where the problem might be, and do I really need to replace the transmission?

    Thanks in advance for your help!
  • julietjjulietj Posts: 15
    Get a second opinion! And a third if you have to.
    I've heard of this happening, and having it solved with a transmission flush, or that it was because of an issue with the neutral safety switch, or the vacuum hoses, or that it continued to happen even after a new transmission was installed. It's too big of a deal to go with the first mechanic's advice to replace the entire transmission.
  • oib622oib622 Posts: 1
    There is a grinding noise, sounds like it is from the front wheel area. Replaced all wheel bearings in the front end. Didn't stop the problem. Doesn't do it all the time, just when I hit a rough spot in the road - then it starts. Stops if I slow down to 20 mph. Any ideas??
  • I just bought a 2006 4Runner with a little under 39,000 miles.
    I am on the fence about an extended warranty.
    Part of me says it's a Toyota! and you won't have to worry about anything for a long time... but then the peace of mind is nice too.
    After checking around a bit I have heard that the warranty companies try to find any loophole or technicality to get out of paying, and they require that all factory maintenance schedules are followed or they don't pay.
    What is the consensus on the third party extended warranties?
  • I would pass on the warranty. I purchased a 2006 4Runner Limited V8 new and did pay $1,400+ for a 72 month 120,000 warranty, which I thought was from Toyota, but was from one of these insurance companies. I was so tried after negotiating a great deal on the truck that I got talked into the extended warranty. I suspect if I do have a claim, it will be difficult to collect. I have 65K on the 4Runner and I've had no problems. I typically keep my vehicles (Honda/Toyota) for 10-12 years. Traded a 12 year old, 4 cylinder, Honda Accord with 187K miles, which was still running fine for the 4Runner. I was just tired of driving it. I do have the 4Runner serviced at the dealership and follow the maintenance schedule to a tee. It's a Toyota manufactured in Japan! Save the money and spend it on the scheduled maintenance
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    You can't buy a Toyota Warranty on a used car after you drive it off the lot. The third party warranties are not worth the price of a postage stamp.

    A word to the wise...any 4Runner equipped with a sunroof or the X-Reas suspension should be purchased with a warranty. Both are trouble items. One shock for the X-Reas cost $600.00.

    I know, Toyota had to replace one of mine and I had the extended warranty!
  • boats3boats3 Posts: 42
    So I finally got a chance to adjust the roof rack rails, and the noise has stopped. Thanks for the info really appreciate the help.
  • You're welcome. Glad I could help. Enjoy your ride.
  • I have a 2006 4Runner i am repairing. When hook up the battery the alarm goes off and a theft deterrant appears to be stopping the engine from turns over fine but will not start. I do not have a key fob with this vehicle. I tried putting the key in on position before hooking up the batter, help with alarm but not the engine kill. is there something i can do to reset this?
  • My 2008 SR5 is at 30,000 and I'm about to take a road trip. The dealership near me is offering the service for $671.00 (with a free rental for the day). Does this sound reasonable?
  • boats3boats3 Posts: 42
    Ask them specifically what they are doing for the 30,000 mile service.
  • I have the entire list:
    -Tighten nuts & bolts on Chassis
    -Re-torque propeller shaft bolt
    -Replace front difference oil (4WD)
    -Replace Engine Air filter
    -Replace rear difference oil
    -Replace transfer case oil (4WD)
    -Lubricate propeller shaft (4WD)
    -Oil Change
    -Replace spark plugs
    -Rotate Tires

    Then the inspect the following: exhaust pipes and mountings, drive shaft boots (4WD), Steering linkage and boots, stering gear box, ball joins and dust covers, brake lines and hoses, fuel tank cap gasket, Automatic transmission fluid, brake linings/discs and brake pads/discs, fuel lines/connections/tank band, etc, inspect radiator, condenser and/or intercooler and engine coolant.

    I also told him I want them to wash my car. (even though it is snowing here).

    Thank you for any advice you can give.
  • boats3boats3 Posts: 42
    At a dealer I would say anywhere between $600-$900.
  • Okay. I feel okay then. I feel confident I can talk him down to $600 and plus I'll have the rental for the day. Thank you for your help. I wouldn't normally go to the dealer, but, as mentioned, I'm driving to NC from MD in three days and want it done quickly! Thanks again!!!
  • I have the same make, and experience similar problems. We finally figured out to leave it on 'Auto' mode all the time, and it seems to work fine. However, to get the defrost function to work we first need to put the rear window on defrost, and then the front. The problem being that it is then hard to get back 'Auto' mode.
    The dealership told me that it could be the control module that costs about $900, or a defective relay that would be in the vicinty of $200-$300.
    We have elected to let it ride as is since we don't need defrost function to much in the South.
  • newdavidqnewdavidq Posts: 146
    Hope you get this before you spend the $600. My local dealer just quoted me $270 for the 30k service on my 07 v6 4r. Consumer reports just did a national survey of costs for 30, 60 and 120 mile service costs for various vehicles. They did one for the 30k interval on the v6 4r in LA, Chicago and NY and the highest was $472 and the lowest was $180. The higher costs were associated with the dealer doing more than the factory recommended items. I would check your owners manual and insist that they do only the manufacturer recommended service. If you have other Toyota dealers in your area I would get some other estimates.
    PS. You don't have to have a dealer do the service; a qualified independant shop can also do the work.
    Regards, DQ
  • bassnvoxbassnvox Posts: 3
    I have a 1990 4Runner 3.0 V6 4WD. The car bogs out, makes a metal grinding sound, and loses power at 2000 rpm, it has minimal power until about 2600 rpm, once I pass that it is fine. Also in 4th and 5th gear, the pedal will be floored and I will have no power and be unable to pass 2000 rpm, the only way around this is too down shift and tach up the engine so that I will go into gear higher than 2600 rpm. I have recently replaced the max sensor, fuel filter/pump, all gaskets inside the block, and cat converter. I also have a clean K&N intake system, and I run high mileage synthetic blend valvoline oil. I don't know what else I can repair or replace to fix this and it's becoming very expensive. What can be causing this?

  • duke15duke15 Posts: 161
    I know this is an old thread, but I couldn't find the answer. I've been using the search function and I'm looking for the solution to a similiar problem. I have a 2002 4Runner 4X4 V6 AT with 103K miles I'm the only owner. Recently, when driving, I have been getting some random hesitation. It seems to happen more often when slightly increasing the gas pedal. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all on small trips, other times it happens 5-10 times. Any ideas?

  • leonotoleonoto Posts: 1
    I have seen a lot of posts about door rattles, but none of them seem to be the kind of rattle I have. If anyone knows what the cause or solution to this problem is, please let me know.
    On my 95k mile 2000 4Runner, all my doors rattle and squeak against the frame of the truck when hitting minor bumps. Sometimes it sounds like the rubber stripping is squeaking as the door vibrates, but other times, especially in the rear hatch, it sounds like a metal on metal grinding banging noise when hitting bumps. I've adjusted the striker plates on the front two doors to no avail. Since that didn't fix the problem, I didn't try it on the other doors. All the rubber stops are in place (some had to be replaced). The rattles seem to be reduced in really warm weather and magnify in really cold weather. I have been chasing this problem since I bought the truck two years ago. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. As far as I know, the truck hasn't been off road other than mountain forest service roads, and the previous owners definitely didn't rally the truck. I also know that the origin of the rattles isn't inside the door panels since I have dismantled them and ensured tight screws and bolts all around.
    My hunches:
    - Doors need to be completely re adjusted (at hinges and striker plates). This is an expensive option since I don't feel comfortable adjusting the hinges myself.
    - Weather stripping is of poor quality and could be replaced

    Otherwise I love my truck, and it is in great shape and well maintained. But the rattles just drive me crazy!
    Thanks for your help.
  • 2004 v6 4wd with 20,000 miles. I bought it with 4890 miles on it.
    Oil and oil filter changes once a year.
    I am looking at changing the transmission oil and cooling fluids this Spring. About 85% of the mileage is stop and go driving in an urban setting. Right now, I am experiencing low mileage and will test at the next fillup. I was wondering whether if I also should have the mechanic check the fuel injectors? If so, then is on the vehicle cleaning ok or should I go with off the vehicle cleaning. I have only used 95 octane gas. What does the toyota mechanic check when low mileage is the complaint? Should I also consider other maintenance?
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