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Toyota 4Runner Maintenance and Repair



  • Where can I find wiring diagrams for my 2008 Toyota 4Runner.
    I am looking for shop manual caliber
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    The tires COULD be the cause. Do a search and find out how much the Cross Terrains weigh. Then do the same for your old tires. BTW-the CTs are an excellent tire. Very,very quiet and long lasting, smooth riding.

    Good luck!
  • The Michelins are not the cause for an mpg loss. Welcome to winter gas formulations. You should have been seeing this every winter anyway.
  • I also have an '04 4Runner SE, V8, 5sp automatic. At about 50,000 miles I went to the dealer expecting to get a preventative transmission fluid change but was told the WS grade transmission fluid did not need to be changed until about 90,000 miles. I'm sure you have observed there is no transmission dipstick to check the transmission level yourself. The dealer went on to explain that the transmission fluid change was more involved than you might think. There is a drain plug hole near the bottom of the transmission but it will only drain about half of the fluid if opened. An upper plug is to for the refilling process but can also be used to FLUSH the system which requires about 12 qts. of fluid to properly flush the system I was told. After talking to another garage, I decided to buy about 6 quarts of Toyota WS transmission fluid and let the garage simply drain what would drain and pump in enough fresh fluid to bring the level back to the upper drain plug. It requires a small 12v pump to pump the new fluid out of the containers and into the upper port. When fluid starts to run out, he put the plug back in, lowered the car and started the engine and engaged the transmission to D for a few minutes. Then, shut off the engine and raised the vehicle to check the level again using the upper port. It took about another quart to bring it back to the upper port level. This was a cheap way to replace a PORTION of the old fluid. 4Runner now has about 71K and no problems. However, next time, I'll have it flushed at the dealer. The 4Runner does NOT check the quality of the transmission fluid. Keep a watch for any leaking and if you are concerned about the fluid level, I think the only way is to open the upper tranmission port and check the level with your finger. It should be very near the bottom of the upper port's opening. Why Toyota couldn't have just put in a dipstick (which could also have been used for refilling or even to suck out the old fluid) is beyond me.
  • agnostoagnosto Posts: 205
    Does anyone know the oil element torque setting for the 2010 4Runner V6 4WD ?:

    1. Oil drain bolt/plug (bolt to drain the 6.6 US qts of oil)
    2. Center cap drain plug (small O-ring to drain the oil from the Oil Filter element)
    3. Cap with Oil Filter Housing element (big O-ring to remove the Oil Filter housing element with the 65mm 14 flutes special service tool)

    I called TCS and the Toyota dealership and got conflicting answers.
  • I bought a new 2003 Toyota 4Runner SR5 a few years ago, and am not sure if the four wheel drive system is working properly. When I first used it, I wasn't really paying attention to the indicator lights. I read the manually, and it says that when i turn the four wheel drive to the H4 position from H2 the indicator light should blink several times then stay on. I also click the center differential button, but that does nothing. Can someone help me
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    The car manufacturers are starting to feel that they do not want the owners to have access to the fluid level of the transmissions. There have been some problems caused by overfilling. I didn't think most people even opened their hood!

    But I agree with you.
  • Going to H4 (unlocked) does turn a dash indicator to green. Locking the differential turns the indicator to yellow. If this isn't happening, then see the dealer. I'm doing this off of memory as I don't care to go outside at the moment to look at my dash.

    Sounds like you've correctly interpreted the owners manual, so the vehicle may have an issue. Some of us early on found out the 4H took too long to engage and you'd be stuck before the 4wd actuated. The remedy was to leave it in 4H unlocked all the time.
  • warrebwarreb Posts: 20
    I just purchased, from the Toyota dealer, two oil filter elements for my new 4runner. Have not got under the car yet, but the instructions on the side of the filter box say "tighten cap to torque indicated on Cap top surface with SST" (SST = special service tool). Presume that means there are some torque specs that become visible when the piece is taken off. Further down on the side of the box, where the instructions refer to the small O-ring and bolt assembly, they call out a torque of 12.5 + or - 2.5 N-m (9.5 + or - 2 ft lbs).

    Do you really need the SST? Or will one of the many faceted cartridge oil filter grabbing tools work?
  • agnostoagnosto Posts: 205
    I have the generic metal oil filter grabbing tool, but I went to Wal-mart and purchased the SST (FRAM brand 65mm 14 flutes) for under $4.00 which is a hard plastic (the more expensive one is metal). I have not used it yet, but I did find the torque settings for the oil change (after I had to correct multiple times Toyota Customer Support providing me the incorrect info for the wrong engine type). Here are the torque settings for the oil change in a 2010 4Runner:

    1. Oil drain bolt/plug (bolt to drain the 6.6 US qts of oil) 30 ft-lbs of torque
    2. Center cap drain plug (small O-ring to drain the oil from the Oil Filter element) 10 ft-lbs of torque
    3. Cap with Oil Filter Housing element (big O-ring to remove the Oil Filter housing element with the 65mm 14 flutes special service tool) 18 ft-lbs of torque

    I had to buy the Craftsman torque wrench (5-80 ft-lbs), since the one I had was for higher torque setting (25-125 ft-lbs).
  • I have a 1990 V6 4runner and on random occasions when the 4runner is warm and only when I press the brakes the idle jumps between 500 and 1500 rpm like im reving the engine. I was wondering if anyone knew the cause of this doesn't effect the running its just really annoying.
  • pjc1pjc1 Posts: 72
    Quick question...

    I have a 2010 4runner limited and brought into the dealer for an oil change at 5k miles as instructed in the owners manual. Service told me this truck has synthetic oil and should not be changed until 10K. I am somewhat concerned that I am not following the owners manual.

    Any thoughts?

  • agnostoagnosto Posts: 205
    I am also an owner of the 2010 4Runner Limited with NAV and I have done extensive research about the oil change subject. Yes, the owners manual does say every 5000 miles to change the oil, but I believe (not sure though) around February or later Toyota will distribute to the owners of the 2010 4Runner that was purchased in 2009 the change that will state the oil change to be done at every 10000 miles since it is a fully synthetic oil 0W-20. My suggestion is for the first oil change to be done at 5000 miles and thereafter at 10000 miles interval (i.e. 2nd oil change at 15k miles, 3rd oil change at 25k miles, etc.)

    Below is a list of qualified Toyota vehicles for the 10k miles oil change interval:
    The notification, dated December 15, 2009.

    The included vehicles are:
    2010 Toyota Camry (4 cylinder)
    2010 Toyota Prius
    2010 Toyota Tundra (small V8)
    2010 Toyota Sequoia (small V8)
    2010 Toyota FJ Crusier
    2010 Toyota 4Runner (6 cylinder)
    2010 Scion xD

    For detailed info see also: - 73815-some-2010-toyota-vehicle-oil-change-intervals-officially-revised-10000-mil- - es-1-year-verified.html#post1026148 - us-other-toyota-models
  • I bought a 2002 Toyota 4runner SR5 a few months ago and yesterday afternoon it started sputtering under load at low rpm's. It's been snowing and raining a few days now and I thought it might be a fuel issue or a electrical issue. Thoughts on problem solving to determine the issue? Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks, Dan
  • drex1drex1 Posts: 41
    The solution - New Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. Replaced it and have not had a check engine light (or P0171 Code) or any problems since.
  • agnostoagnosto Posts: 205
    Did you find out the issue or the dealership? What was the total cost in parts and labor?
  • I'm haveing the same problem in my 4runner. You have a leak somewhere in the vacume line. My suggestion is to listen for a suck or a hiss. Then replace the hose where you heard the sound. If you can't find a sound, then ONE BY ONE (can't emphasize this enough) check each hose for cracking, tears or splits.
  • I'm sporting a 90 4Runner with a 3VZ-E V6 and a manual tranny. Every time I try to lock in to 4WD the front diff dose not. I have checked all electrical connections the seem to be functioning properly. So then I checked the gear box for low fluid. Still full. I'm trying to see if there is a vacume leak. Thus far there seems to be nothing out of the ordinary. I'm starting to run out of ideas for simple solutions and just might be looking into more complicated and more expensive ones. If any one has any tips before hand let me know.
    One thing I have been thinking of is removing the ADD system and repalceing it with mannual "lock-ins".
  • yes mine and many other 2004 4 runner has this issue. toyota put me off until my warranty ran out.. i opened a case a year into owning the truck and was told over and over by the dealer that it was normal for abs, until two days ago when another dealer informed me that it has aq bad master cylinder and wanted 3000 to repair it.. i think we need to unite everyone and get a file opened for a recall on this issue..
  • i filed with toyota a case a year into owning while under warranty as i was being told that my mushy brakes close to the floor were normal for abs.. i knew it was not true and i opened a case.. they sent me to the dealer again via toyota corporate and lied to me again stating it was normal.. after coming out of warranty and a year later of coping i had another dealer in another state look at it as they said it was a bleeding issue.. not true, it was determined by this dealer that i need a new master cylinder.. we need to unite all 04 owners with this issue and file a case to get this issue repaired as 3k is not acceptable after years of complaining and safety compromise.. i am in disbelief that after years and years of owning every generation of 4runner that toyota elected to lie about this issue to many people..i have blogged with a dozen or more so far with the exact issue..
  • toyota lied to me under warranty three times and said it was normal for abs and now i am being informed by another dealer that i have a bad master cylinder and my car is now out of 3k to replace...any ideas?
  • not alone.. my brakes on the 04 have been to the floor since i purchased the truck.. toyota lied to me until it was out of warranty stating they never had any other complints and that it was normal for abs.. i have been hearing this issue over and over.. i opened a case and they kept putting me i am being told i need a new master cylinder at 3k to do the repair..also the ac dual zones will blow hot on the driver //actuator issues are also in large numbers...i think we should all
  • rdv3773rdv3773 Posts: 1
    Tom, I have a 2008 4-Runner with the V8. When it sits for a week or more, on start up I get the most horrible banging knock for the first minute. It sounds to me like a defective lifter that is collapsing after sitting under spring pressure. It takes about a minute to pump up, then everything is fine.

    It does not do it again until it has sat for a week or so. I have less than 20K miles on it. Sometimes it does not do it (probably when that lifter is not trying to open). My problem is that I spent $600 on the dealer manuals and the engine does not seem to have hydraulic lifters! Of course it is fine when I take it to the dealer.

    Maybe we have the same problem... but, I am not sure what it is.
  • yaroshyarosh Posts: 14
    just has "oil gasket" blow driving away from my 60,000 mile checkup ($700). brakes went, steering went, stopped dead on highway, almost got killed. gave them perfect car, got back dangerous vehiicle. dealership always super-reliable. thought overworked mechanic forgot to tighten oil filter or something. they said it was defective. i have done all maintenance, always in love with car, now wonder: what's the point of genuine toyota parts if they're going to be crap too? i read about people wanting to get 300,000 miles from a car. my previous experience with a ford ltd was as soon as i used aftermarket parts it was all over. now, is dishonest toyota "value engineering" defective parts to save money? if so, i was get rid of the car in a heartbeat and buy a german truck. anybody have any thoughts? anybody a dealer? thanks.
  • Take a look at Nissan!
  • 4runmann4runmann Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    I suspect that I overpaid for dealer service on my 2000 Toyota 4Runner here on Long Island, NY.

    I had a driveability issue. Occurring months apart, the vehicle stalled twice while driving. The second time I figured I would have the vehicle inspected. My local Toyota service center had shut down last year, so I went to the closest one.

    The service rep reported that I needed the following;
    Replace Mass Air flow sensor: $468.98 (276.00 labor; 192.98 parts)
    With the above, they said the following was mandatory:
    Throttle Body serice - $186.99 (125.00 labor; 61.99 parts)
    Finally, they said my ignition wires were not Toyota. That was strange to hear.
    They replaced the wires for $184.37. (105.95 labor; 78.42 parts)

    Total bill: $840.34 plus tax.

    I gave them the go-ahead and the car was ready for pickup within two hours or less. Reading the bill in detail afterward, that two hour window of labor ran: $506.95. That sounded like a lot, considering that all the work might have been done by one technician. Parts pricing is suspicious, as well. And maybe the throttle body service stated as mandatory might not have been.
  • When I am driving and turn even slightly the steering wheel column squeaks? any ideas on what this could be, lubrication?

  • fleckfleck Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 4Runner and lately the drivers side rear wheel has been locking up due to the fact that the park brake actuator continues to tighten the pads against the drum. Obvioulsy it is supposed to adjust the tension everytime the park brake is activated but the problem is that it continues to do so until the wheel siezes. Is something wore out or do I need to replace something? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • japfanjapfan Posts: 4
    I own a 1998 toyota 4runner SR5. The dashboard lights go on and off intermittently. If I tap on the dash where the lights are located, such as the area where the heater controls are located, the lights will sometimes come back on. I was just wondering if anyone else has this annoying problem and what might be causing this. It looks like a pain to tear the dash apart to fix this if I have to replace the bulbs.
  • japfanjapfan Posts: 4
    Can someone please tell me what the goofy spoiler looking thing does on the back of my 4runner? What will happen if I remove it? I am always looking for ways to get better gas mileage out of this pig. I am getting about 16 mpg highway now, which I guess is about normal for a 98 4runner with the V6 auto.It does have 204000 mi. on it so I guess I should be happy it is running! Thanks for any help.
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