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Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout



  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    is there a engine temperature sensor anywhere close to your distributor? if so then it maybe bad,when its cold its calling for so much fuel that its actually flooding the engine [in the computers eyes] in reality its not, so the comp thinks its flooding and shuts down the injectors to stop the flood when you put the hair dryer ie, heat, either on the dist. or in close proximity to the engine sensors, the comp. reads as normal and the truck starts.
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    a rough ride, excessive play in the steering wheel.if you jack the frt. of your vehicle up and support it properly, have an assistant help,you can watch the balljoints movement if the assistant places one hand on top of the whl. and grabs the bottom of the whl. w/ the other, youll be able to see any movement in the upper or lower BJs, if the assistant tries to pull out on the bottom and push in the top of the wheel alternate between the 2 actions [push,pull,push ,pull] and if your assist. does this corrctly youll see them move.the same holds true for the tie rod ends and other frt. end components except swap positions of your hands from top and bottm to one on each side of the whl. one towards the back of the truck and one towards the front, doing this youll be able to see excessive movement in 90% of your frt. suspensionas far as frt and rear SHOCKS,no struts on our trucks,thats all in the ride and stablilty,rough ride,swaying motion[dog walking]these are all common signs of bad or failed shocks,and sometimes stabilizer bar link pins and bushings. i use TRW suspension parts for normal vehicle use,they are affordable and extremely dependable, plus the warranty is really good and they have no issue honoring it and as shocks go monroe has a very good and wide array of medium to heavy duty shocks at a very cost effective price but try to stay w/ a medium duty shock to keep the ride firm but not kidney busting,but for extreme sport usage youll have to go to 4X4 offroad application which youll have to research,i only use mine for normal things [hauling,pulling,pushing etc.] hope this helps
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    have you checked for cracked chaffed electrical connectors?cracked distributor shaft,factory defunct ignition parts such as cap,plug wires and other simple things?if its EFI. maybe you got a bad coolant sensor,and it floods thinking it needs the extra fuelon start up.maybe just bad injectors.
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    tbi pressure is 36.3 psi, sounds like you have a computer ground issue or the computer is just bad.check for pulse at injectors.
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    you're rite about the balljoints causing a shimmy.i do my own work and thats this weekends projct. i jacked up and supported the frt. end and shook the whl. top and bottom and i got some pretty good play. you must pay attention to your truck,good job. most people wouldve never had made that connection believe it or not.
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    have you assumed that being self adjusters and with that many miles maybe theyre just wore out?ive got the same issue and short of a cam and lifter overhaul ive come to terms with the noise as just NATURAL.ive tried 15dollar a quart full synthetics and got peace and quiet for about 1200 miles,my dads is worse w/ less miles,his sounds like an old tank w/ loose tracks running over lined up washboards,but it has no power loss or any adverse affects.we are gettin ready to do the cam and lifters in his just for the noise,i'll keep posting to let you know if it cured his noise issue.being that bad it wont be long for results.
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    national parts locator most salvage yards have them,if they cant get your parts they go to a web link which costs a little yearly,to find what they need for can find a locator on the net,pay their fee and have unlimited access to any part for any vehicle ever made,for however the subscription last.but i got my fuel pump from Advance auto parts,but i live in ohio close to dayton.
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    the distributor has like a dual adjustment,the shaft and then the rotor button itself can be tweaked, quite a bit actually, if your timing is out,its my experience that itll still run fine but fuel mileage will be like driving a 72 cadilac with a bad tune up.check the timing.bring up # one and check from there youll need a repair manual to assist you, but timing is everything.ive also found that bosch and bosch platinum spark plugs only perform as advertised for a very limited time,our garage has had 21 tow ins in the last 4 months due to people doing a routine tuneup and installing bosch plugs,they just fail, we call them a quater mile plug,after the first run you gotta change them out, a cool spark plug doesnt burn efficiently and the end result is poor mileage.
  • wern10wern10 Posts: 14
    they rarely fail,so the parts houses dont have enough profit incentive to stock my guys they can ship it if they got in ohio and the junk yard has several locations they are also on the web but i dont have the link close so heres the name:G.W.PIERCE AUTO, New Paris,Ohio...the other yard is the same name but in Spiceland, Indiana they have a national parts locator..or you can register for your own access to a locator on the net.its used auto parts national locator,theres a small fee but you get unlimited access to unlimited parts for any number of vehicles.our garage uses several, its well worth the 40 dollar registration fee.
  • ggannggann Posts: 8
    Thank You This is something for me to check out. Autozone wants $240 for the new computor which may be worth it if it works. How about a used one for a salvage yard? Will any 1990's Nissan truck computor work? The numbers on my computor are MECM T132A plus two other numbers 2039 and 3414 Thanks again for your Help as I am 70 miles from a Nissan dealer and my local mechanic gave up after trying for 6 weeks. Gary
  • zanegreyzanegrey Posts: 32
    hey gary ,
    email me ..
    i can help you with parts you need for nissan trucks..
  • Towing: 90-97 2wd 4 cylinder 5spd- 3500 lbs MAX. Alot of these with bumpers can only handle 2000 lbs unless you get a separate towing hitch rated up to or past the max of 3500 lbs. This is for anyone looking up towing. 6 cylinder long beds can go upto 5000 lbs according to owner manual.
  • Any one have experience on what a good brand of performance exhaust that is quiet at idle and has some decent noise under load for a 2.4? Its been hard to find a brand that does not sound like a tin can on a Honda. Thanks.
  • frank_jfrank_j Posts: 1
    hello all, I'm new to the forum & was wondering if anyone knows anything about common problems with the 5 speed trans in my truck its a 1995 xe king cab with a 3.0. trans makes a whining noise when running,whether in or out of gear,moving or setting still any & all advice or help will be appreciated.
  • here is an update. I found a broken wire leading from the temp sending unit and bypassed it. Runs great, although I don't understand where the dash temp is getting its info from :confuse: . Hope this helps someone.
  • robfilarobfila Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1995 nissan pickup se. Can someone tell me what the button A-T Power does.Its located next to the cruisr control buton thank you
  • i have a noise underneath, sounds like shield for exhaust or the dealer spent some time under the truck looking and they said they have had this complaint before and found that it could be loose inside of exhaust. if thats the case, might have to put up with the noise. not worth new exhaust just because of noise. other problem i have is wind noise on drivers door. other than these two things, this truck is wonderful. any suggestions?
  • couldnt tell ya, but u can download a manual online and read up on it. I even bought a manual for my 2003 just a week ago cause the truck didnt have one when i bought it a month ago
  • colinc1colinc1 Posts: 1
    Ok, first I'll confess I jumpstarted this truck with the cables hooked up backwards (ok, I know) and blew the fusible link in the charging circuit, I replaced it with a 30A inline fuse and proceeded to drive it for a couple of weeks culminating with a
    1000 mile trip in one weekend with no problems. then I had it shipped to an island, when I went to the island 2 weeks later the 30a fuse was blown and when I relaced it, it blew right away, when the fuse was blown the windows,horn, turn signals and a few other things didnt work. but the alt light never came on, I drove it about 50 miles and the battery died, I charged the battery and ran tests, the fuses would usually blow after starting, but if I replaced it while running it would last until I turned it off again. the ammeter would sometimes show a high charge (15 v) a voltmeter across the battery showed no change in voltage after starting, a voltmeter across the 'batt' terminal of the alternator and ground while running showed nothing.
    and while the alt light on the dash comes on when the ign is on it goes out when the engine is started, I removed the alt and bought it back with me, I took it to 2 auto parts stores for testing , the first one said it passed the second one said it worked but was only putting out 11 volts. Its not possible for me to try anything else untill I go back to the island, when I do I want to be fully armed! Anyone got a clue?
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    Visit and you can probably download your owner's manual for free. Hope this helps.
  • moterimoteri Posts: 1
    what does a 1994 nissan 4x4 pickup with the V6 5sp get for gas mileage? i'm interested in one.
  • 8ball28ball2 Posts: 9
    I have a 1993 4x4 V6 5sp SE and it gets about 16 mpg. It has a 20gal. tank, so it cost about $3,000.00 to fill it up in the US.
  • I'm looking for the a 1994 Nissa XE pickup truck with a blown engine in it and a body that's in good condition. I really enjoy my pickup but the body is rusting out and it is unsafe to drive. So i'm hoping to get a good body to drop my engine into. Thanks
  • n1ssann1ssan Posts: 1
    I recently replaced my starter, and after I started my truck the first time afterwards the A/C won't blow cold air. Does anyone have a clue? Thank you!
  • jass1jass1 Posts: 1
    have a 97 nissan pickup 2.4 I ran it out of gas then it started running very rough. I changed the plugs wires, plugs and fuel filter. It now drives but it does not have any power. and the idle is very rough. also when I took off the fuel filter some sand came out, are my injectors cloged? and is that an easy fix?
  • rodranierrodranier Posts: 10
    I have a 1995 XE with a 2.4L that I replaced the idle air control valve on. It now sometimes idles up to about 1500 rpm's but when I tap the accelerator it idles down to normal. It happens sporadically, not all the time. Any ideas? It's funny in that the reason I replaced the part in the first place was because it idled low.


  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Was the IAC aftermarket or OEM?

    There's a chance it may be defective.
  • thephilthephil Posts: 1
    I had nearly the same issue. I was parking in the grass in my yard consistently and in that spot it puddled water under the engine compartment each time it rained. My truck was sputtering for the first 10 to 15 minutes of my morning commute. I couldn't figure out what the issue was. I had purchased relatively cheap plug wires, previously. I tried several things, then when checking the plugs, I broke the wires, so I had to replace them. The truck ran perfectly afterward.
  • Thanks! I didn't receive many suggestions regarding the situation and the Nissan technicians have been no help so I sincerely appreciate your response. The problems definitely sound similar. Replacing the plug wires along with the distributor, cap, O-ring and coil wires was one of the first DIY steps I took and unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. So I continue to park the truck in the garage to keep it dry and haven't encountered the problem any more. So I remain puzzled. ? ? ? Thanks again for your response!
  • lava3lava3 Posts: 4
    I also have a19995 Nissan pickup but a 5spd. 4cyl. Speedometer quit a few days ago. Thought it might be speed sensor also. Getting ready to pull old one from my truck but how can i be sure thats the problem? new one is $i60. used at $45. is there a way to check old one first?
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