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Ford Mustang (2005 and Newer)



  • dennissdenniss Posts: 8
    Well, pardon me for being old-fashioned.

    I see a blinking light on the dash, I automatically assume that there is a problem.

    Of COURSE I don't want to disable it...I just needed some reassurance that it was functioning properly.
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,229
    You're excused. :P
  • vertical3vertical3 Posts: 43
    Mine flashes with the vehicle shutoff and secure. Why it does it all the time is interesting. Try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes and reconnecting it (sorry about the lost radio presets).
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,229
    It should not flash while the engine is on keep in mind. I would guess that, other than the insurance reasons stated before, the reason it flashes when the doors are unlocked is to let everyone know that a system is still armed. That system being the engine immobilizer which is deactivated by the chip in the key. Once you start the vehicle with the correct key all systems are disarmed and the light stops flashing.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Its always going to flash. At least in the gauge cluster, some vehicles actually have a light on top of the dash. You would not believe how many calls I've gotten from customers who wonder what it is after they got their car home.

    It seems to be most noticable in the garage. The bottom line is if I sounded sarcastic, I apologize. Its just frustrated to constantly read posts by people who autmatically assume the worst.

  • mrq1mrq1 Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with a 05 GT conv. car sets for a few days and the battery is dead. I have had it flat bedded to the dealer 4 times. The dealer does all kinds of tests cannot find anything wrong, charges the battery and says there is nothing more they can do. Seems to me a battery should hold a charge longer than a week. What if anything have you found out to remedy the situation ?
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    According to TSB 07-5-13:

    All modern automobiles have several micro processors in their electrical system that will draw small amounts of electrical current when the vehicle key is off. Normal current draw is between 20-30 milliamps (workshop manual specification is up to 50 milliamps 0.050 amps.

    Batteries will discharge while the vehicle is in storage due to normal current draw loads. Over a period of time (30 days or more), vehicles in storage will have shallow to deeply discharged batteries as a result of lack of use or normal current draw.

    The more discharged a battery becomes, the more susceptible it is to permanent damage. This is more likely in low temperatures (below 32 °F (0 °C).

    The vehicle’s charging system is designed to supply the vehicle’s electrical power needs and maintain the battery to near full charge during normal vehicle use. The charging system is not capable of bringing a deeply discharged battery back to near full charge in a short amount of time such as allowing the vehicle to idle for 15 minutes to “recharge the battery” or from short drive cycles.

    Short drive cycles will only provide a small surface charge to the battery. To fully recharge a battery that is fully discharged requires operating the vehicle for approximately two (2)hours with engine speed above 1500 RPM.

    The solution is to go to Walmart or any autoparts store and get yourself a "trickle charger" There are some now that you plug in to the cig. lighter or 12v power outlet so you don't have to go under the hood with the alligator clips. There are even some that run on solar panels for those who do not garage the vehicle. The cost is probably less than $30.00

  • pony_piratepony_pirate Posts: 317
    Have let me GT Premium sit for as long as 2 weeks without any problems (as long as I remember to unplug the radar detector).

    My Honda, on the other hand, can't sit for a week without discharging the battery. I use a battery tender on that car. :shades:
  • cccompsoncccompson Posts: 2,388
    Actually, the dead battery problems many owners have experienced (myself included) apparently relate to a surprising source - the radio.

    Turn off the stereo when you stop the car. When the radio is left "on" it draws a tremendous amount of amps even though the car is not running.

    I know, it sounds nuts, but give it a try.
  • sotoole2sotoole2 Posts: 2
    Dealer replaced the battery on the 2nd visit (well done!). They cited much of the above. Essentially, with all the electronic shite, it will drain without w/out consistant use - sooner in Chicago winters. So, its either trickle charge or drive the salt mine winter roads of the north coast.
  • mrq1mrq1 Posts: 2
    Thank you for your input,but Mark like the TSB says "Over a period of time (30 days or more)etc." my car sets less than a week more like 3-4 days! And at other times the car has set for 3 weeks while I was on vacation and started when I got back! I will also check out the radio and see if that makes a difference. I still think something is amiss. If this is a common problem then Ford has designed in a flaw or just to cheap to put it a big enough battery!
  • vertical3vertical3 Posts: 43
    Hmmmm...interesting. Mine sat for a week once with the radio on and it required a jump. Good to know. Thanks.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    You are missing the point of my post.

    Reread it then ask yourself what your driving habits were in the time frame prior to it not starting.

    If you are only taking short trips in your car, you are never charging the car.

    Even if you drive the car every day, if you are only making short trips, you'll end up with a dead battery.

  • piasonpiason Posts: 55
    Does anyone drive their Mustang all year? I live in Philly and we get some snow but not much, this will be my only car and will it make it through 2 - 3 inches of snow if I need to get home?
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Drove my Mustang with traction control through the winter with no problems. I was on the road when they were covered with what little snow there was this past and I had no problems with fish tailing thanks to the traction control.

  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,229
    I live in Pittsburgh and my GT is my daily driver. I have the 18" "Fanblad" wheels and it did just fine in the snow with the TCS on. I did get stuck in a 3-4" thick sheet of ice that was covered by a couple of inches of snow and it did take a while to get out of that one.

    Just stay away from the ice and you'll be fine.
  • I've lived in Princeton, NJ for the past two winters and my Mustang is the only transportation I've had. In 2-3 inches of snow/sleet you'll be fine so long as you don't try anything crazy. I will caution that when you park it make sure you can get enough traction under the rear wheels to get out of the spot. Ice stops pretty much everybody so don't take the chance driving in it.
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,229
    Ice stops pretty much everybody so don't take the chance driving in it.

    Our Explorer drove right through the same ice I got stuck in with the Mustang. :P

    I am heavily considering getting a set of snow tires for the winter starting next year. They won't be needed for 95% of the snow we get here but are cheaper than a winter beater and will lend a good piece of mind. A set of four mounted on new rims (not Mustang rims) from are roughly $1000 after tax and shipping in case you're wondering. I have a floor jack so swapping them myself won't be a chore either.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    just use steel wheels with fan blade stype chrome wheel covers.....

    Ok ok i'm kidding.

  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,229
    Actually tirerack doesn't have a set of steel wheels for the Mustang GT. At least not those with 18" factory rims. I thought it might look kind of cool with them on in the winter in a police cruiser kind of way. :P
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,019
    You don't need 18 in winter wheels and tires. Get 16" or 17" (minus 1 or minus 2 sizing). You keep the overall diameter the same but the choices go way up and the prices come way down as the wheel size gets smaller.
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,229
    You don't need 18 in winter wheels and tires. Get 16" or 17" (minus 1 or minus 2 sizing).

    That's all TireRack will sell you so I'm well aware. IIRC they do not sell an 18" winter tire at all, therefore the rims I looked at from them are 17" rims even though I have 18" rims from the factory. The tires are definitely a different size than the factory 17" rims/tires to make up for the lost wheel diameter as you mentioned.

    Thanks for thinking of me though. ;)
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,019
    I forgot about brake clearance - you can run a smaller wheel provided there is enough room for the brakes.
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,229
    I'm pretty sure the brake clearance is the only reason TireRack will only sell you 17 inch wheels and tires or bigger for the GT. IIRC 16" rims will not fit over the GT's brakes as they are a bit bigger than the V6 model's brakes.
  • topgun7topgun7 Posts: 412
    I am interested in a GT convertible. For those who own it, how is the noise level when the top is up and down? Can the driver and passenger carry a normal conversation? Also about the sound systems, how do you like the base and/or the upgraded system (is the 1000 watts system overkill??). Thanks.
  • mike189mike189 Posts: 23
    oh sure the mustang is going real strong ....where poland??????i work for a bmw dealership and across the highway there is a ford dealer and every week i see the same mustang gts sitting there looking ugly,its amazing people take a mustang gt or a gt500 or a mach 1 and they come but a bmw m3,i dont understand but then i do ,i once had a cobra, a 2005,over rated junk ,and it went back to ford courtesy of lemon law,2 nd set of head gaskets in 2 months,i seroiusly think ford should stop making cars,stick to toy cars ,and save the ford name for what ever its worth,poor henry he did alot for the american car company but ford foregot about quality job one,now its quality job my case.the verdict is in unfortunantly ford is not
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,229
    Let me be the first to feed the troll.

    First of all, there was no Cobra in 2005. Nice try.

    Second of all there hasn't been a Mach1 for several years now so I'm not sure how you see a new one on the lot across from you. Used car dealer maybe? :confuse:

    Third of all, sales of the Mustang are finally at what Ford expected them to be. For all of the first two years of the new body style, and then some, you had to either look very hard for the one you wanted or order it. They weren't easy to find on lots.

    Last of all, why don't you check the SCCA racing circuit. Mustangs are eating BMWs for luch week in and week out. :P
  • gzgtpgzgtp Posts: 83
    Be easy on the troll. Mike189 seems to be a little slow,as he is responding to a post that is 3 1/2 years old. Things must be slow at BMW to have this much time on your hands Mike.
  • vertical3vertical3 Posts: 43
    Let me help.....

    Down here in South Florida you see as many Beemer's as Taurus's. Not to say they're not a nice car, but......I'll keep my GT and the extra 15K in my pocket for the stock market. My friend just picked up his 335(for 51K). Good car but neither one of us can out run a motorola radio.

    Check out this months Motor Trend 10 car comparison, the 35 certainly wasn't a barn burner in any category. Of BTW, the cross section of cars went from 70K+ down to 35K.

    Wonder how many X3's and X5's our friend has had to work on.....
  • rorrrorr Posts: 3,630
    "Things must be slow at BMW to have this much time on your hands Mike."

    I'm thinking it was probably raining at Mike's BMW dealership so instead of having to wash the cars he's been busy making sure there was fresh cafe latte available for the customers in the service department. Since that didn't take much time, he decided to drop in here to stir things up with the Mustang crowd.
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