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Ford Mustang (2005 and Newer)



  • I've been having problem w/ my 06 Mustang and the Ford dealer and a private garage can't figure out what's going on with it. If I come to a stop, either at a light, stop sign etc etc, sometimes my car will not take back off when I press on the gas pedal. Sometimes it will die completely and I have to put it in park and restart the engine and rev it up before I can take off or else it dies again. I had a wrench light come on over a month ago and went to Advance and they said it was my TPS, throttle pedal sensor (?), but i guess they cleared the codes because the Ford dealer couldn't find them. Both the dealership and private mechanic drove it and couldn't get it to "mess up" and the dealership pretty much told me I was crazy. (Hate being a young female taking my car places, ya know?) It is my primary car and I have a 1 yr old and I don't feel safe driving him around in it since it could mess up pulling out into oncoming traffic. Anyone else have experience with this same issue or have suggestions on figuring out what's wrong? Thanks for your advice!
  • It sounds alot like my 2005 TPS problem. First they thought it was a fuel pump, so they replaced that. However it got progressively worse and dangerous. It would even stall when slowing down to make a left turn! I would bring it in, but the computer would never give codes. Finally, after 3 years of this, I started getting code lites and thats what it turned out to be. Once they replaced the sensor, it never happened again. Also, performance and gas mileage got better.

    Oh, it only would happen for a short time after filling the tank. It would start at about 7/8th and last for a few hundred miles. Start a log as to when it happens, what you were doing, a note the mileage.
  • Sbiggin,
    Look at this post for more details. 2793
  • Is the TPS something that I can buy at Advance and have installed fairly reasonably or only something the dealer can do? I bought an extended warranty but when I brought it in for the problem before they said it wouldn't be covered and to replace would cost me around $400 out of pocket.
  • Mine was covered under the extended warranty. I called first to make sure.
    The dealer also broke the bolt, denied it, and it WASN’T covered.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 11,854
    next time you get 'the wrench', take it into the dealer. don't have the codes cleared.
    then it will probably be covered.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • Have a good mechanic check your air flow meter. I had same prob with my 2005 GT. My guy tuned it, but said if I had more problems it would have to be replaced. Again I have 4.6 24 valve with a moto blue exhaust. Hope this helps. Also check what gas you use. Water and cloged gas filter will cause same problem.
  • I would like to change my standard GT guages to the premium info guages. Any info would greatly be appreciated. What electronics or nitemares will be required? Thank again for any help.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    A reporter is looking to speak to a recent buyer or a current shopper of a Chevy Camaro, Dodge Challenger Ford Mustang or Nissan 370Z . Please send your daytime phone number to by Tuesday, November 10, 2009.

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  • jmarounjmaroun Posts: 151
    I got my 2010 Mustang GT some time in September of 09, and pretty much from day one, there seemed to be an intermittent issue with the trunk latch mechanism.
    About one out of five times, while opening the trunk using key button, I get a weird somewhat loud vibration sound (coming from the trunk latch/solenoid mechanism) instead of a typical single thunk that usually happens when it works correctly. After that vibration happens, the trunk may or may not be still locked. I think there's a 50% chance a second press of the truck release button is required to unlock the trunk. It always works after the second request. Furthermore, about one out of 20 times, after I get the above issue, the trunk wont close since the latch toggle hook mechanism is flipped. This is solved by manually resetting the hook and pressing the trunk release button again and then closing..or something along that procedure.

    I decided that I'd bring it up on my first maintenance service which I did yesterday at 5300 miles. The service rep said that the mechanic/technicion found the trunk to be misaligned with the latch. The trunk was "recentered", and he said the problem was solved. Looking at the trunk, I could see that it was now shifted about an 1/8th to a 1/4 of an inch to the right. Off center. :( I was a bit annoyed, but if it solved the latch problem, I was fine with it. Next day, (this morning), I got the same latch/solenoid vibration and trunk didn't open on first request. :cry:

    I want my rear trunk lid recentered and I want that latch mechanism replaced. It's obviously faulty. Actually, I was told two weeks earlier by someone from Ford that this latch/solenoid mechanism is known to be faulty and has been replaced in later production cars (after the month mine was manufactured). He even scheduled to have the part sent to a local dealer and have it ready for me to pick up. It was my fault for forgetting the name of that dealership. I should have mentioned yesterday to my service rep about this but I didn't because I didn't want to seem pushy. I hoped they would know about the problem or figure it out themselves and order the part on their own. Just goes to show you, the repair you get at a dealership does not guarantee a propper fix.

    I'm annoyed but not upset because service was prompt and they are very polite which I value so much! I don't fault them too much since their solution was kind-of a reasonable fix, given that they probably didn't know about the issue. I was told by someone from Ford that the faulty latch only appears in 2010 Mustangs produced in the first several months. It's been replaced with a redesigned one after that.

    Now, I expect and hope for prompt correction of the issue. I'm reasonably confident I'll be satisfied with their response and I will post what happens as usual.

    By the way, I love the car overall. Especially the engine note and rear wheel spinning torque delivery. Reminds me that 1968 movie "Bullitt". :shades:

    San Diego
  • When using your remote you need to press the trunk release button twice. It won't open if you press the button once. It must be some sort of safety mechanism. It's on page 99 of your Mustang Owner's Guide. I looked it up when my trunk failed to open when only pressed once. Hope this helps. I also have a 2010 GT and love it!

  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    considering the recent news of the 2011 powertrains. :confuse: The V6 is finally going to get some competitive HP and a noteworthy engine for 2011 and the 5.0 is finally coming back to the GT. Nobody cares?
  • jmarounjmaroun Posts: 151
    cares?? I'm pissed and excited at the same time! I just got my 2010 GT and have invested about $2200 in handling mods. Regardless; if the 5.0 comes out, I don't think I'd be able to resist trading my car in for long. By the way, the next generation 3 series will be comming out shortly after the 5.0. For me, these will be really fun comparing (and test driving :shades: ). And Yes, I do think the current Mustang is comparable to a 3 series in many important respects.

    I don't know how Ford will pull off bringing back a 5.0 in such politicaly charged times regarding the environment. 5L sounds like a whole lot even if only 0.4L more than the current engine. It will be a challenge to their engineering and marketing teams to avoid a negative backlash. I hope they succeed since the 5.0 is a legend.

    I'll be blasting my 4.6L GT in the mean time. :)

    San Diego
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,018
    Easy - the 5.0L will get better fuel mileage than the old 4.6L.
  • jmarounjmaroun Posts: 151
    Hmmm, 8.5% more fuel but still better fuel mileage. That sounds like a tough cookie to pull unless they bump up to 6-gears. I hope not. I think 5 is plenny. Heck, I'm driving around in 4th all day, and I've got a 3.73 rear gear ratio.


    San Diego
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,018
    It will be 6 speeds for both manual and auto. It's nothing more than giving engineering a common goal (fuel economy) and getting out of their way. The V6 will get 30 mpg highway and a significant bump in city (at least 2 mpg I think) while going from 210 hp to 305 and from ~240 to 263 in torque (approximately). More efficient engines can give you both - power and FE.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 11,854
    mike rowe walking by line of different ford models.
    i get goosebumps listening to the mustang start up.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    I was on the cusp of adding a 2010 GT to my garage since I miss my '05 GT so much. I'm glad I waited. I was actually wanting to hold out for an IRS, but a 5L V8 w/ 400HP (or more) will suffice. Wonder how long before aftermarket powertrain/drivetrain parts will be available.
  • jmarounjmaroun Posts: 151
    good timming! I had to buy when I bought, knowing full well of the likely hood of a 2011 5.0! Too bad Ford doesn't lease, at least not Mustangs. I may have to take a hit and trade up provided the economy doesn't degrade further next year.

    One cool thing about the prospects of 6 gears is that it enables Ford to safely offer a significantly higher rear gear ratio. Imagine a factory 4.75+ option? That sounds enticing. :)

    San Diego
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,018
    Who says Ford doesn't lease mustangs?
  • jmarounjmaroun Posts: 151
    A Ford dealer sales rep. :confuse:
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,018
    I was not able to get a lease payment estimate on a mustang on the Ford website so you may be correct. That's really strange. I knew they were being more conservative on the residual values but that's the first time I'd heard of a mfr refusing to lease a specific model.

    Of course you can always lease through a 3rd party.
  • I need help with possible solutions to my mustang problem. I have an 06 mustang gt 5 speed with 55,000 onit. I have long tube headers and h pipe and drag radials. Everthing else stock. The car has been this way since 07. Within the past 5 months a rattling noise has developed. It happens in turns left or right and also if I start driving or if I am driving and let of the gas. A small but obnoxious rattle which sounds like its coming from up front. In the turns the car bogs a little and then when you straight it is fine. I have had clutch, pp and to bearing checked. This noise I cannot recreate at idle when I rev the motor. Some people say its the rearend and the noise is traveling up to the front. I have checked all my exhaust clearances and all is well. Does anyone out there know what this could be? I have also had my car at ford and they dont know. HEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLPPP!!!!!!!!!!
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Sounds like your rearend is on its way out the door. Could be the ring gear or the spider gears. Probably just the ring gear, though. I have a 3.55 ring and pinion I can sell to ya. It has less than 2,000 miles on it. Email me if you're interested. Subject: 3.55 Ring Gear
  • Just wondering--How many of you press the button(right side) on gearshift lever to
    concel overdrive to decelerate when slowing down for a traffic signal and/or slow
    traffic ahead. I have a 07 V-6 convert. and do it often so as to use engine
    breaking to slow down and save the brakes ...
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,018
    and do it often so as to use engine
    breaking to slow down

    Seems kind of drastic to break your engine just to slow down.......

    Seriously though, you can buy a lifetime supply of brake pads for the cost of one transmission rebuild.......
  • jmarounjmaroun Posts: 151
    Sounds like you shoulda gotta standard. Nothing wrong with engine breaking IF you do it propperly. Modulating clutch pedal, ensuring rpms never exceed about 3k and the engine should always assist, not replace wholely,your breaks. I find this practice to be fun and effective, as well as a superior method of breaking over the middle pedal only. During emergency situations, it might be safer and quicker to just use your breaks. I believe automatics aren't suitable for engine breaking and wouldn't recommend it but give credit for the imagination. Getta stick:)

    Merry Christmas

    San Diego
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,018
    I guess I was being too subtle. Break is what you get when you overstress something. Brakes stop the car. Sorry - major pet peeve.
  • jmarounjmaroun Posts: 151
    Time to take a break from talking about breaking engines while braking.
  • I've had basically the same problem since purchasing my '06 GT Stang (new with 526 miles on odometer). Mine is an automatic and it chugs or surges drastically after exiting the freeway and trying to merge with street traffic (I have a merge lane without a stoplight, so I do not always have to come to a complete stop). The dealer has never been able to pull a problem code or reproduce the problem on a test drive.
    I have this problem intermittently, no specific fuel level when it occurs and quite recently the car completely shut off while exiting the freeway (different exit). Luckily (or unluckily) I was literally across the street from a Ford dealership when this new problem happened. I was told my CAI was "loose" causing the car to stall and sputter while trying to coax it across the street to the dealership. $168 later, the dealership "tightened" the screws on the CAI and sent me on my "merry" way.
    I've replaced the fuel filter once and use Royal Purple for everything from oil to additives.
    On top of that, within the last 6 months my engine light has come on twice (my OBDII scanner cannot pick up a code). BTW the CAI and BBK throttle body were installed 2 years after I bought this vehicle, so I know they aren't the problem.
    I really don't trust most dealerships as I know they're all about money and not interested in customer service or owning up to inherent design flaws that cause these problems.
    So, is it the throttle position sensor or do I need to trade this in for a camaro? I've got a 12 pack and a pizza for anyone willing to come fix it... ;)
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