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Acura TL Maintenance and Repair



  • The battery on My 10 year Honda civic never died. I had only 45,000 miles on it though
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Posts: 3,101
    My 22 month+ old '05 TL has been left in the garage without being started for periods of between 5-9 days, no dead battery. Knock plood!

    '13 Jaguar XF, possibly my favorite of all the cars I've owned. But, my '09 Jag XK was a beauty, as was my '05 Acura TL, '88 Acura Integra, '84 Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo & '78 VW Scirocco (my first!). And, of course, the '92 Nissan Sentra SE-R and '95 Saab 900s I bought for the ex... Ok, I like a lot of the cars in my life.

  • ggesqggesq Posts: 701
    My experience is a little different than yours. I drive mostly highway miles with about 30% stop and go traffic a day.

    I have gone about 1500-1800 miles before the oil life indicator drops 10%.

    I have heard that the indicator changes based on the type of driving you do- highway vs. city, how hard you push the engine vs. being soft on the pedal, temperature outside, uphill and downhill driving, and general driving conditions like driving in a polluted area vs non- polluted area.

    This is just what I heard and am told that TL's in different areas of the US have different intervals.

    Seems like the rate your going your going to be forced to change your oil every 3k??

    Hope this helps. ;)
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Thanks for your reply - strange that I seem to get EXACTLY 600 miles for every 10% drop - that would be 6,000 miles / not 3,000 - by the time I hit zero %.

    I expected to change oil about every 6 months - thats about 4,000 miles the way we drive this car - mostly city stop and go. I told my wife - its too bad we can't take the TL on a few long trips - its really a great car on the open road. But we normally take our dogs - and the golden (90 pounds) fits better in the SUV.
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    The TL has battery run-down protection.
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    Same here. It's not uncommon for mine to get parked for periods of 1 - 2 weeks straight. Always fires right up, no matter what the outside ambient temperature. :shades:
  • ggesqggesq Posts: 701
    "that would be 6,000 miles / not 3,000 - by the time I hit zero %."

    :blush: Wow, I am pretty bad at math! :blush:
  • FYI, I have a maintenance service done on my 2006 tl at 5,090 miles for oil change (<15%) after 5 month worth of driving. My comute is ~20 miles for one way at ~24 mph.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    So 5,090 miles used 85% of the oil life per the computer.

    5,090/85 = 59.88 miles per 1% drop or 598.8 miles for every 10% drop.

    Pretty close to my 600 miles per ever 10%

    Any chance that the first time its just 600 miles for every 10% drop - and then after break in it goes by actual revolutions?
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    I think that whole maintenance minder computer thing is a bit gimmicky anyway. It looks hi-tech and fancy, but probably, at the end of the day, you end up doing the oil changes at about the same intervals as before. I would much rather have a oil level indicator instead.
  • I have got the same problem on the rear doors. I am going to have the dealer checked it out.

    Can we order the parts and replace them ourselves?
  • I am thinking about buying a TL. We have a one year old who rides in a front-facing car seat. My wife thinks that it would be extremely awkward to load our daughter into a car seat mounted in the middle or either side of the rear seat. Does anyone have any thoughts about the ease/awkwardness?
  • We have a 2 year old daughter (22.5 months) which rides in a car seat mounted on the right side rear seat (passenger side) - to allow easier interaction when I'm without my wife - and it loads and unloads pretty easy. Not as comfortable as in large SUV, but no complaints yet. Only a bit more uncomfortable than in the other car a 2005 Camry.
  • It is the armrest. when they age, the area around the astray bulge and peeled away from the astray. It happened to my 2000 TL.

    I ordered the parts from the dealer over the net,
    ( &catcgry2=2000&catcgry3=4DR+TL&catcgry5=REAR%2BDOOR%2BLINING&ListAll=All&vinsrch- =no)
    part 8 and 11.
    They are cheaper than local dealer's price and they deliver next day.

    I installed the new armrests myself and took me one hour.
  • I purchased a new 2006 Acura TL with 13 miles on the odometer. It now has about 1200 miles. I've had the gear pop out from 1st or 2nd about 10 times so far. It happens when the car is rolling at about 10-15 miles/hour and my legs are not pressing the clutch or the accelerator. I took it to the dealership and got the usual "can't reproduce the problem message". Does anyone have this similar problem?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,839
    Could be a loose linkage, bad linkage bushings, broken motor or transmission mount, and worst of all, a transmission assembly defect.

    Try accelerating in first and then letting off the gas abruptly. this should cause it to happen (make sure no one is behind you).

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  • Have a 1999 tl and just turned over 100k miles. Runs very well. What is the practice regarding replacing the timing chain/belt. Have been told this is a necessity as the breakage of this chain would ruin total engine. Is this correct and what is the advice regarding this?
    Thanks for any info gandb777
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Your TL has a timing belt, not a chain, and should be replaced at 74,000 miles.
    Honda's vtech engines are zero tolerance and if the belt breaks, kiss the motor goodbye... as it would cost more to repair the damage than what the car is worth.

    Although it should be replaced at 74,000, I'll admit that I went 130,000 on my wife's Accord.
    Take it to the dealer if you can afford the bath.

    I took ours to my very trusted mechanic and I think it was less than $250-, if I remember correctly.
    The belt itself is only $30-, the rest is labor.
  • scjdscjd Posts: 5
    According to the manual the timing belt should be changed at 105K miles, the dealer estimate was $822, local mechanic - $300, $400 with the recommended tune up
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I don't have a 99 or it's manual... I just ran a very quick online search.

    Either way, I recommend the local mechanic if you trust his work.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Its always a good idea to also change the tension pulley assembly (or what ever Acura calls it) when you are changing out the timing belt. I found this out the hard way - dealer never even ask me if I wanted it replaced while they were replacing the timing belt. It would have added $25 to the cost. It went out 30,000 miles after I had the belt replaced.

    Also with many engines (not sure about the TL) all the labor required to replace the belt is also needed to get to the water pump. If I was planning on keeping the vehicle (and who would replace a timing belt if they were not) I would at least consider also replacing the pump with a rebuilt one. I did this with a Nissan and it only added $65 to the total cost.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Super good point, I completely forgot that!

    I got the water pump done at the same time, since the mechanic was already going to be in there.
    It was a very small fee since the labor was already covered by the belt repair.

    Very much recommended!
  • At 83,000, the oil jet kit was installed. At 97,000, the dealership checked the transmission and said everything is OK. Now, at 140,000, the transmission is slipping. Has anyone experienced the same issues? How did the dealer handle the repair?
  • I have an 06 tl with 8000 miles. I have paint chips in all areas from front, hood, fenders and rear bumper, acura dealer is not responsive. I have only drove in city and highway. Has anyone else experienced this problem.
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    My 2.5 year-old TL only has one small chip on the lower part of the front passenger door.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    "I have an 06 tl with 8000 miles. I have paint chips in all areas from front, hood, fenders and rear bumper, acura dealer is not responsive. I have only drove in city and highway. Has anyone else experienced this problem."

    If you search through the forums, you'll see that a lot of people have paint chip problems.

    Unfortunately this is a byproduct of new environmentally friendly low VOC paints. They chip MUCH more easily than older paints.

    You'll see this problem occurring on all new vehicles, but the low profile cars like the TL, IS, TSX...they will suffer the most and the most damage is done while traveling on the highways.

    The best defense is not driving away from the dealer at time of delivery without having a clear-bra installed first.
    Or, do the low cost option and keep some touch-up paint handy.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    "I have only drove in city and highway" - So you don't take the TL OFFROAD? LOL

    I would rather have chips in my paint than have a clear plastic bra on a car -

    In my experience with new cars I seem to notice chips the second or third time I wash the vehicle. By this time I have 600 - 1,000 miles so it will have a few chips - its been the same on every car/truck I have ever owned.
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    I drive almost exclusively in the city, so that may explain the lack of paint chips on my TL. However, I do have 2 cracks/chips on the windshield. :cry:
  • tldantldan Posts: 3
    i would say that it is specific to individual cars. I actually went to the dealership because this rattle is not normal at all. The dealer said that it was "normal" but for those of you with this same problem, it definitely is not. I got my windows tinted aftermarket( who gets factory Tints anyway??) so the guy said that he was unable to help me because i got my windows tinted. DO you think that my tints are the reason for the rattling?
  • ggesqggesq Posts: 701

    Your service advisor is a liar! There is a specific TSB for this issue. Try to print it out so you could show him what the tech needs to do to fix the rattle. ;)
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