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Acura TL Maintenance and Repair



  • rlonn1rlonn1 Posts: 106
    I hope this is a happy Friday for you. What did the dealer tell you and do we have a fix or answer to the issue?? I am sure may folks are waiting your reply...
  • Well as it turns out the dealer had no clue....They confirmed no leaks or excess burning of oil, and since I had put 3 quarts in prior to them seeing it the oil was full. They agreed it must have been a mix up at the factory with some bozo not filling the oil....
  • rlonn1rlonn1 Posts: 106
    Not only did they miss it at the factory, the dealer should have done an inspection as well. In your TL maintenance manual you will find the pre-delivery check off list. I have asked around about this and it is possible that most of the oil loss was during the first 1500 miles as the rings set up.. Eventually they did and your oil usage went down.

    The oil that is in the engine is a special blend for new engines. You will need to drain it all and replace the filter, and start from a fresh start. Then check your oil every week to see if it is OK.

    When I returned from las Vegas a few weeks back I was down 1/2 qt. I have since put on another 500 miles, and my oil usage appears to be Zero... Check back with us in a few months and let us know how things have been.. :shades:
  • kerry51kerry51 Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a 2007 Acura TL which has an intermittent problem of the horn honking while turning. On one occasion it honked approximately 6 times in a 4 block area. I shut the car off and restarted it. This time it took several trys and considerable effort to get it to honk once. In addition, it lost it's memory the other day with regard to pre-set radio stations indicating to me that there was a battery disconnect at one point. Due to the fact that I live in a rural area and not close to an Acura dealer and the problems being intermittent, I would like to solve this problem myself.
  • I don't keep up with values because I'm not in the market. You can easily check values via Ebay, Craigslist or Personally I'd be very leery of a salvage title. Not because they can't be repaired properly; I used to work at a car dealership many moons ago and I think a quality body shop can work wonders. But the problem will come when you go to sell it. I would think a car with a salvage title would take a minimum 20% to 25% hit in resale value. Of course, if you decide to drive it till it drops maybe you won't have to worry about that drop in value. If I were you I'd be sure to drive it in all sorts of conditions: high speeds in addition to low speeds; highways in addition to city streets. I'd also have someone drive behind you to make sure it's not "dog-tracking"...where the frame is bent. All of this in addition to taking it to your local Acura dealer for inspection. As someone else has pointed out, sounds like there may be better deals out there. Frankly I figured my 2005 TL with 62,000 miles was only worth about $10k or $12k.
  • Have U figured out your horn problem yet?

    I just now read your thread.

    This is curious to me. We have an '05.

  • gbosilgbosil Posts: 88

    I see this in many of the forums and think it needs to be clarified. A fuel's octane rating represents its detonation threshold, not a promise of better performance or mileage. Higher-octane fuels create a slower burning flame. This deters pre-ignition, which manifests itself as engine "knock" or "pinging." Higher-compression engines, turbocharged or supercharged engines and higher-revving engines make good use of 91-octane premium. If the manufacturer does not recommend high octane, don't use it. The ABC news magazine show "20/20" put this advice to the test, and the results showed there is no benefit to be had in using high-octane (unless recommended) and, in some cases, fuel efficiency will be lost to incomplete combustion. You are just cheating yourself out of $$ in the long run by using lower grade octane! :)
  • rvator4rvator4 Posts: 84
    Good post. If you don't mind, I would like to add the following.
    In a 2000 TL, I did a full year using fuel with 10% ethanol followed by a full year with non-ethanol fuel. I kept track and averaged the gas mileage.....Guess what? It was EXACTLY the same MPG.
  • kerry51kerry51 Posts: 2
    I just got it repaired by the dealer yesterday. They found an exposed wire connector in the steering wheel. Alas, I can now participate in a funeral procession without making an [non-permissible content removed] out of myself.
  • Upon visual inspection, the dealer said my 1997 3.2TL Acura has a slight crack of the transmission mount. It would cost approx. $800 for a replacement. The car itself drives fine and I don't feel any difference. How serious is this problem and when should it be replaced? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    I wouuldn't replace it until it is causing noticeable problems---probably you'd start noticing some movement in the gear lever or clunking during shifting. What you might do is have them point out the crack so that you can keep an eye on it. If it is actually *broken* in half already, then yeah, have it done.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I agree with Mr. Shiftright. Get a look at the "slight crack". It may never separate. It may not even be a crack. There are also ways to repair castings. Have a friend that is an engineer take a look at it. I would also make sure that there isn't a broken motor mount or transmission mount elsewhere that is overloading that mount.
  • I have a 2006 TL and I had to replace the starter at 59000 miles. I find this highly unusual with an Acura. Any thoughts?
  • dzmouloudiamcodzmouloudiamco Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    Transmission problem
    2003 Acura TL 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 180000 miles

    I have a 2003 Acura TL-S the car runs great with a perfect engine
    Last april i took the car to Acura for servicing and i was told that there was a recall on transmission, something has to to with the 2nd gear and they put some kind of inject on it.
    Anyway, last night while i was trying to park i did a reverse and than a D5 and the car wont move, it did eventually move, but it took its time, when ever i turned the car on and off, the transmission works perfectly.
    In other words, when i start the car , the car works perfectly, but if i drive it for a mile or two and try to park, do a reverse and a d5, i start giving me problems other than that no problems.
    NB: note that , if i turn the car off and on, the issue is gone

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    edited September 2010
    Had a similar 2nd gear recall service done on my 2000 TL with 93,000 miles (had no problems previously). Within a few months the whole transmission failed completely. Had to have it towed and the transmission replaced.

    Your symptoms sound a bit different, however, since it fixes the problem itself when you restart. Can only suggest you return it to the servicing dealer to check for an electrical switching/ solenoid problem . Maybe they will be able to squeeze the fix under the previous recall work order if it's a simple one.

    Would definitely recommend you not put it off however
  • My 2006 Acura Bluetooth started failing after 4 years. I tried cycling the unit by pulling fuses, but it did not fix the problem. A new Bluetooth module costs $650. My fix was to buy a $65 complete overhead console used on Ebay for a 2004 TL. I then removed the Bluetooth module from the used part. I then removed the center section of the overhead console on my car by levering it out with some thin screwdrivers. This exposes the screws that attach the overhead console, which I removed. I then replaced the Bluetooth unit with the used Ebay unit. I then reversed the process and re-installed the overhead console. Problem solved. :)
  • rvator4rvator4 Posts: 84
    That is using your head. Great job. I will keep it in mind.
  • Did you ever figure out what happened with the "ratchety" mirror? I am having the same problem.
  • Hello,

    I have a 2006 TL with 47K miles. On Sunday when I was trying to park the car navigating through the tailgaters at Redskins game, there was an intense burning smell in the car. I parked the car and drove home after the game when the smell was not as intense. Since then I have driven the car about 100 miles and there is a slight smell. Everything seems normal other than the slight smell around my right tire. Clutch pedal feels fine and I have normal acceleration.

    I took it to the dealer on Monday AM and they said that the clutch needs to be replaced and it is $1900 for the clutch and $2600 if I also need the flywheel. Called Acura customer service who was very helpful and suggested that I need to authorize tear down (at my expense) to diagnose the problem and then suggest corrective action which seems reasonable if clutch is the problem.

    Question: Understand that clutch is not a warranty item, does the diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things that I need to be aware of.

    FYI.. I had a Mustang prior to this car and it had 115K on original clutch when I sold it. I learned to drive in a stick shift car.

    Appreciate any insight you can provide. Thank you.
  • carteachcarteach Posts: 179
    A few thoughts even though I'm not expert about clutches.

    Dealers are making their money these days on repairs, not on car sales. So keep that in mind. I've heard more than one story where dealers have told people they've needed an expensive repair that was not needed at all.

    Since your clutch isn't under warranty, check out a few reliable (if you can find them) auto repair shops to see whether they come up with the same diagnosis.

    If it were me, I'd wait a while before I did anything. I've had horrible burning smells from a piece of plastic that's gotten lodged some place. The fact that smell has almost disappeared would make me want to wait.

    Good luck.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 25,380
    ditto here. If it was so shot that is was burning like that, I think you would notice it from feel, and certainly juddering starting up in 1st.

    I once had a plastic bag wrap around the cat converter, and man, did that smell horrible!

    I would also check with an independant shop or 2 for opinions. And prices, since that seems really, really high, but I have not paid to replace a clutch since 1979 (and I have driven stick exclusively since then).

    keep in mind tht if you pay for a tear down, you are kind of stuck with them and what they find, unless I guess you want to pay to have them put it all back together, so you can go elsewhere?

    also, you mentioned the smell coming from around the rear tire, which seems odd if it was the clutch. Might want to have the brakes checked 1st (tire stores do that for free). Maybe pads are shot, or something was dragging?

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • billpaulbillpaul Posts: 103
    Clutch might actually be a warranty problem, depending on what's wrong with the car (assuming anything is wrong). Agree with others: get other opinions before commiting to a very high cost.
  • coast4coast4 Posts: 1
    had similar thing happen and was told by the dealer that the car will use 1 qt of oil for every 1000 miles have it in writing from dealer. who would buy such a car if told this in advance and if it is true should not all acura tl owners be warned.
  • rlonn1rlonn1 Posts: 106
    But!!! Think how many of us have the same car and we do not burn 1 Qt of oil every 1000 Miles! I did burn 3/4 of a quart after 5K! But from 5K to the present 7800 that does include a 6500 mile first oil change, Zero oil burned.... :confuse: :sick:
  • gbosilgbosil Posts: 88
    Sounds odd? I have a 2007 TLS and got 30K out of mine? I did go to aftermarket when I changed them out. It's much cheaper! I went with the Brembo Drilled Rotors and Powerstop Brakes. They work excellent! And NO MORE BRAKE DUST!!!! :shades:
  • rlonn1rlonn1 Posts: 106
    A recent Court Decision went against HONDA on these brake issues. They offer a $150 credit for your particular situation. Talk to your dealer about all the details. My wife 2009 Acura TSX had her front pads replaced after 23K, they covered the entire cost!
  • Their are much better cars for winter driving. I use snow tires and drive in New Hampshire and MA 1k mi a week. It's not bad but I've driven better. Saab 900 S or 93 with snow tires is unbeatable in the snow unless you want to go to AWD or 4WD. But it drives like a dream the rest of the year.
  • I have a 06 TL with 137K mi. and replaced the tires in March with Yokohama Avid Envigor tires. When I first had them installed the car drove better than it ever had. Outstanding handling and absolutely no tire noise. After about 12-15K miles they have started to feather on the inside. Have rotated ever 6k and the alignment was checked twice and is fine. Now after 25K I can't stand the noise any longer they are louder than my snow tires. The Alignment was checked again and is fine less than a 32nd off on the camber. The mechanic checked the ball joints and mounts and found nothing on any wheel. His only suggestion was possible strut fatigue. Any thoughts on that? I don't want to spent $1100 on all four strut replacements if they are just trying to change parts to troubleshoot. I know 137k mi is a lot but it's all highway miles. Would Fatigued struts feather the inside of the tire? What else would it be? :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Well certainly at 137K if you've never replaced the struts, they are fatigued--however, if this is truly "feathering" and not scalloping or "cupping", then toe in and toe out are the usual culprits. If there is noticeable cupping, then strut replacement would be warranted--but if it's the typical feathering pattern, then struts as a cause is much less likely IMO.

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