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Toyota Tundra: Problems & Solutions



  • No - I am not sure - that's why I posted the question. Any specifics on "what is supposed to be there"? Is the base paint thicker, is the clear coat thicker, or is there something else?
  • I think it may be a coat of something similar to a heavy bodied undercoating that is applied to the area prior to the color coat and clear coat. I have an 05 Tundra DC in Natural White that has the exact same orange peel look in the same area as you describe.

    My wife's 04 Highlander which is Bluestone Metallic also has this on it.
  • I have a 2004 Tundra with the Keyless Entry. One of my remotes is not working, I changed the battery but it will not lock or unlock, the light comes on when a button is pressed but no luck. Is there any way to reset the remote?
  • I have a similar question - I have an 05 Tundra DC and lost one of the Keyless Entry Remotes. I bought a replacement off of E-bay for $19.00 and need to have it reprogrammed to open my vehicle (the new remote has the exact same FCC codes/ labeling on the back as my other factory remote). The dealer wanted $132.00 for a new, programmed remote and said they would charge an hour's labor ($100.00) to reprogram the one I have. I have scoured the internet for instructions - but everyone wants $30 to $100 bucks for " 5 min easy to use instructions." Does anyone know how to reprogram a new remote based on the code of an existing one?
  • I recently purchased an '05 Tundra with the X-SP package. It came with the 20" Pirelli tires. Does anyone know the recommended cold tire pressure for both the front and rear? Thanks!
  • I know that that information is available online---I found it a few years ago when Idid the same after gf lost the second remote with the fest of her keys.

    I will even hand out my "secret" method for obtaining free remotes: any major parking garage probably has a box full of found remotes et al.
  • rvboyrvboy Posts: 12
    You will find the correct cold psi. on the inside driver's door. I have an 02 Tundra and when I had the factory P265/70/16 Bridgestones they were listed as 29 psi for the front and 36 psi for the rear. I have just put on a new set of Dayton's LT245/75/16 and they are listed as 35psi on both front and rear. I tow a 6500 Travel trailer so I run them all at 38 psi because of the added weight, plus if you run them alittle higher you get better gas mileage. If your door say's to run them a little lower in front then the rear it's for ride comfort and Toyota feels the front tires will expand faster in the front because of the weight of the engine.Don't forget to check them cold and rotate them every 6,000 miles because I'm sure those tires are not cheap to replace.
  • Finding a dead battery on my 03 Tundra and jumping it to start it. There alarm went off when I hooked up the jumper cables and I turn it off with the remote. Now the alarm does not work. It will turn on with the driver door open when it is locked using the door switch, but shuts off when door is closed. Has anyone had this problem. I am looking for a way to correct the problem.
  • This sounds precisely like my Tundra as well. The only exception is that I have 98,000 miles on mine and have had relatively good fortune with my brakes. :)

    Of note, you will notice that the Tundra, in typical Toyota fashion, is easy to perform minor maintenance on yourself too. It takes about a half hour to replace the plugs yourself which are super easy to get to. I recommend Bosch Plat Plus (4) plugs about every 30k miles. My check engine light came on at about 90,000 miles and I'm about to replace the O2 sensors myself as well. All 4 are easily accessible under the truck from one location and plug into a factory plug (instead of 4 wires). Unlike others in this forum this is the first time I'm replacing my Oxy sensors which is pretty good since they should be replaced on any vehicle at around every 50k miles just due to environmental wear.

    I did notice the ride quality decrease soon after purchasing mine new and am about to replace my factory shocks with something similar to the TRD package. I also had a rattle under the instrument cowl from day one that is still there, but I think this is because I got one of the early ones off the American assemble line.

    One last thing is that my trailer wiring harness is also about to be replaced under factory warranty, even though this version didn't come with a hitch. I suggest that if you don't have the factory tow pkg to get this warranty replacement as it adds the wiring from Toyota connection to trailer - a $75 value.
  • Do you have any ideas where to start looking on the net, I have tried several places and have had no luck.
  • Looking for some instructions for programming a 2004 Tundra Double Cab?

    Any help would be greatley appreciated.
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Open up your e-mail addy in your profile............Can help ya out !

    DO NOT post it here on th open forum or the spam bots will bite ya !
  • 10-4, You should be able to see it now.
  • Did you add the K&N replacement filter or did you install the entire K&N intake kit? As you probably know, the price difference is substantial.

    I have heard grand claims from K&N about their aftermarket intake kit. They say you should achieve a 15hp gain around 5k RPM but no one ever comments on the gas mileage of either the replacement filter or the intake kit.
  • Can you help me out with the programming too? I have a 2005 Tundra.

  • Did you add the K&N to the existing airbox, or remove the complete airbox and go with the FIPK kit? If you kept the airbox, did you remove the second fabric filter attached to the top lid of the airbox? I removed both filters to the airbox when I added the K&N, but I,m not seeing numbers like that on my 05 Tundra.
  • I own a 2003 Tundra Step-Side (current mileage ~19k). On a recent cross-country trip the right-side rear mud guard began falling off after about 4k miles into the trip. On the return trip the left rear mud guard did the same thing. In both cases the guards began separating at their horizontal seams along the fender. I did not go off-road during the trip but did travel some gravel/dirt forest roads (30 miles total). I plan on discussing this problem with my local Toyota rep but would like to know if anyone else has experienced this problem or has any suggestion as to the possible cause.
  • Well I have one for you guys/gals.
    I bought the keyless entry for my 2002 Toyota Tundra off ebay and I can't get it to work.
    I have the programming procedures also. But now get this the truck never had remote locks from the factory so will this work on mine?
    Thanks for the responds to my problem.
    If anyone wants the procedure just email me.

  • I didn't have Factory keyless entry, but had "Viper" keyless/remote entry with armored ignition kill installed. WORKS great! Only required extra door relays to power the door lock system.

    Mark/Cape Cod
  • My 2002 Tundra (JUST OUT OF WARRANTY) has begun shuddering during downhill braking and I fear it is PROBABLY the much talked about brake wear /rebuild issue. If that turns out to be true (the dealer will look at it on 9/26) I will need to quickly decide whether to have the dealer do the TSB (which they estimate to be $2000 for parts alone) or have aftermarket vented rotors and ceramic pads installed by an independent. The latter choice may be difficult in VT. Anybody know the exact cost of this TSB? Also,the cost of having it done independently with apprpriate/good parts. Thanks.
  • Personally davecrook I would go with the new vented rotors and ceramic pads. I had a 2001 out last month before I bought my 2002 and the 01 had bad brakes also. I think the warping is goto because of the over heating of the front rotors. Ebay has always been a great source for stuff like that for me. Parts like that are not easily accessable to me because of where I live.

    Your welcome.....
  • I have a 02 at 17000 the brakes started shuddering also. at 33000 had them replaced through the TSB and at 53000 same problem. Put power slot cryo rotors and hawk metallic pads on and NOT ceramics. Ceramics do not really start working well until they are heated up enough. Do not waste your money in the stock rotors again. Now at 70,000 miles hawk pads and cryo rotors not one problem.
  • The price i paid for the cryo rotors is 124.00 a rotor and for the hawk brake pads it was 56.00.And then the cost to have someone do them. I did them myself. They are really not that difficult to install. If you put the stock rotors back on or even have them recut you will face the same problem. Read my other post on this topic
  • I have a 2004 Toyota tundra (25000 miles) that makes knocking sound during acceleration. Usually around 4 to 5 thousand RPM. I brought it in 4 times at different places and all the dealership told me it was a gas issue. I use about 4 bottle of fuel cleaner and water separator and issue still persist. Has any body have the same problem or solution.
  • I just had my front ball joints replaced on my 2002 Tundra. It now makes popping
    noises when I,m driving. Does anyone know if this is due to the new ball joints? or
    could the dealer have screwed something else up. I had to take it back a second
    time because they didn't set the toe in right the frist time. I told them about the
    popping noise then, but it is still here.
  • I have a 2002 Tundra with 63,000 miles and it had the same problem this week. It began suddenly, with loss of power and a knocking sound during acceleration. I took it to the local Toyota dealer and they told me it was weak gas, just like your issue. They drained the fuel tank and cleaned out the lines, and I replaced the spark plugs. No change at all. I am taking it back to them in the morning to let them do some more checks. The manager told me that he had seen several similiar problems recently. I will let you know what I find out.
  • I call the headquater and they told me to try a different grade gas. I been trying that and the toyota dealership said they cannot do anything if there is no error code. Please let me know what you find out.
  • Hello all!

    My wife called me today and told me that our 2002 Tundra (77000 miles) wouldn't run. She had started home as normal but stopped at a red light. The truck died. She started it back up and everything seemed OK. When she put it in gear is sputters and dies and the check engine and battery lights come on. Neither light has turned on before.

    Any ideas on what this might be? I seems to start fine, I can even rev the engine a little in park. But sure enough after putting it in gear it dies.

    Any help is MUCH appreciated!

  • I have a 2004 Toyota tundra dc with a knocking sound during acceleration. Usually between 2 to 4000 RPM. I brought it to the dearship 3 times and they told me to try different gas companys or to run 91 octane. I also notice little metal shavings in my oil, I change my oil every 3,000 miles and after a couple hundred miles I notice little metal shavings in the oil, the dealership tells me not to worry its under warranty. My truck only has 17,000 miles. I get 12 mpg at best and I drive easy.
  • ianm1ianm1 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2003 and I switched to 91 Octane. The noise, however, was only prevalent when I switched to the K & N air intake kit. The extra power is great, but the pinging is annoying with 87 Octane.

    I will be raising the issues when I take my truck in for the next service and have the ball joints and now the rear shocks repaired!
This discussion has been closed.