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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair



  • doggaldoggal Posts: 17
    Need to replace the Torque Strut on my 1994 Buick century. Was taken in for inspection and was told that in order to Pass I need to get that done. (the guy even showed me what I need to get done)
    Called around and got quotes anywhere from $80 to almost $300.
    Needless to say I am not going anywhere close to them.
    I checked online and the part is $9.99 at Auto zone.
    Seems like it's on top, right under the hood and held together with 2 bolts.
    Could it be that easy to remove. Just losen up the bolts, take the old one out and put the new one in. Or is it more complicated?????????????
    Have to mention I have NO CAR REPAIR EXPERIENCE, other than checking my fluid levels.
    Thanks for taking the time to read and I will check back this afternoon after work to see what the responses are.

    Have A GREAT DAY.
  • doggaldoggal Posts: 17
    Anyone??? :confuse:
    I am planning on working on it this weekend since the weather will be gorgeous.
    Just want to know if I have to somehow support the motor from the bottom (like raising it a bit) or if I can just undo the bolts, take the old one out and put the new one in.
    Please answer the question if you can. Really appreciated
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited April 2010
    1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then remove mount retaining nuts from below frame mounting bracket.
    2. Remove transaxle mount nuts, then install suitable engine support fixture.
    3. Raise engine only enough to provide clearance for mount removal.
    4. Remove mount to engine bracket nuts, then mount
    5. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specifications.

    Book labor is only .5 hour but I'm worried about the cheap part you're buying. List price is almost $100. How can you get it for $10 bucks?
  • anctechanctech Posts: 4
    I can provide you with detailed instructions to disassemble the dash and get to the cluster. I repair instrument clusters, so there is no need for a replacement and no need for reprogramming the mileage which is extremely costly. You can contact me ANCTechnologies AT
  • anctechanctech Posts: 4
    The actual mileage is stored on the cluster itself. Your problem layed within the circuit board itself, and getting it programmed is going to cost you dearly. I repair instrument clusters for the 97-2004 century where your original mileage would be displayed. contact me at ANCTechnologies at hotmail
  • could you email me wiring info you mentioned? { workin on a 93 Buick Century*}
  • ajk10ajk10 Posts: 1
    My 1994 Buick Century runs like a dream and has 130,000 miles. My problem is electrical. Since Feb/March 2010, car won't start in driveway. I've had the battery (Interstate) replaced, ignition ok, generator ok, etc. Voltmeter used as well as diagnosis machine with no luck in isolating apparent short in electrical system. One mechanic disconnected the seat belt wiring connected to dash seatbelt light. Disconnected the dome light (noticed it was real hot to the touch). Century was worked on about 4 times since March 2010, and ran great for about two months, after the seatbelt wiring was disconnected. Then this past week, no start. No lights, no power windw or locks, no radio, air, no electricity period. Same problem as before. I had the battery charged in driveway and it immediately started up as in the previous situations). Took it to a different mechanic this past Tuesday and after finding nothing wrong (started up with no problem for three days), he replaced the bolt connection to the ground post on battery. I picked it up this past Friday and yesterday (Saturday), same problem. HAS ANYONE HAD SAME TYPE OF PROBLEM OR ANY SUGGESTIONS TO ISOLATE CAUSE? This has been very frustrating, to say the least. Many thanks for your kelp! ajk10
  • majinsintamajinsinta Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    had head gasket fixed after that ac wouldn't come on unless check engine light was on would just blow air then last week battery light came on while was driving all lights inside car wouldn't work changed battery car died then changed alternator. drove for an hour then battery light came back on. Changed negative battery cable and still doing same thing. when start up car squeals for few minutes battery light stays off but after squealing stops battery light comes on.step on gas at times battery light goes off for short amount of time then comes back on does anyone know what this could be
  • melm2melm2 Posts: 1
    only way is to try a repair which is expensive or look to replace, And to replace is just as much due to this being a uniside vehicle.
  • laspianlaspian Posts: 2
    My 2004 Buick Century used to get 33 mpg but dropped at the beginning of winter to 28 mpg. I thought it may have been related to the change in fuel during the winter months but it hasn't gone back up. Any idea why?
  • hI,
    89 CENTURY quits at times driving hot or cold fast or slow. Will usually restart while still rolling and go on. Sometimes quits 2 or 3 times. Sometimes wont start after sitting or overnight. Sometimes starts fine.
    I have 40 psi fuel pressure, When it wont start at home, ether will get it started. Very intermittentent problem.
    I replaced fuel pressure regulator as when I tapped on it , she starts n runs.
    Thank you
  • Sorry for getting in on this so late, but I just found this website.
    I am not a mechanic by any means, but I have had problems with my windows for years. I finally took it to a dealer to have it diagnosed. The verdict: a short in the right passenger door lock actuator. I can only raise/lower my windows with the right passenger door open because of this. I have not fixed it yet because I have heard horror stories about taking apart a door due to all of the electrical parts involved in power locks and power windows.
  • I really need this electrical diagram too

  • As my title says, my mom's '99 Buick Century struggles to sit at idle for more than a few seconds with the AC on. It will start to shake and then when you give it gas, it starts to back fire on you. If you turn the AC off, it will idle just fine and accelerate with no problems. Is this is a fuel line being clogged up? Or is it something else? Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks!

    P.S. I told her to consider running up to Auto Zone and buying some Lucas fuel cleaner to see if it will help any.

  • I slid on a slick road and hit the car in front of me; airbag deployed on my 1995 buick cent. 3.1 v6, amazingly fast--bag expanded and contracted in a fraction of a second. No injuries for either party. Didn't even realize what happened until bag deflated. I can't tell how fast I was going but there was minimal damage to my front end, so little that when I showed it to my mechanic, he said if I could order an aftermarket front end panel, that's all it would need. I ended up buying the panel for $150 and installed it myself. That was 5,000 miles ago. No observable differences in the ride. First time I had an accident. Any idea what minimal speed on impact for air bag to deploy like that? Also, obviously airbag is no good. I cut it out with a mat knife, and driving only with seat belt. With 80,000 miles on it, I figure best thing would be to donate it when I'm ready to get rid of it. Will I get anything for it as a tax donation?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    At what speed the airbag deploys varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some went as low as 6-12 mph but now the premium cars seem to think 18 mph is about right.

    Donation rules have changed so you might get very little for it. Could be better for you to sell it to someone who knows how to re-install an airbag. I'd sell it as a "parts car only" and write that in 3 foot letters on the Bill of Sale.
  • i think where your coming from with this is that your car has twilight sentinel automatic headlamp control in other words it turns your lights on and off automatically and when you shut the car off, and take the key out, the lights stay on for approximately a minute and a half (90 seconds) for this particular model. the chiming with already having the key out might be that you had your lights left on by accident or something else. it also chimes when you lock the car when you push the lock button on the drivers door. also for future advice if you want to shut your lights off right away after you shut the car off just pull the lights knob out once and push it back in and wella your lights are off. hope this is helpful to you.
  • hey there, sounds like you meant the twilight sentinel option that turns the lights on automatically. The location of it is on the drivers side of the defroster vent/grille in the left front corner of the vent and it should look like a dome-shaped photocell. hope this helps!
  • tlon7tlon7 Posts: 7
    I was the victim of predatory towing; worse is that the guy messed up my driver's side door, so the power window won't work (buick century 1995 3.1 liter 6 cyl). It needs a new power window motor. How can I find the number to this part to order it? My mechanic said he'd install it for me if I got a replacement motor -- either used or new one. Can this be something that can be pulled at a junkyard? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Try this website for a used part:
  • tlon7tlon7 Posts: 7
    I have two questions about my Buick Century. I'll ask one here and the other separately; they're two different issues. My odometer (and trip odometer) stopped working. Brought it to my mechanic--who's also a friend. He tried to tighten the contacts and clean in & around speed sensor. The fix lasted ten minutes. Odometer stopped working after the first bump in the road. Did this twice. Now we're shopping for a speed sensor plug. Is there a difference between the actually speed sensor and the plug, or do they come attached as one unit? He said he'd first replace the speed sensor plug to see what happens (so as to keep the price down). Then, if that doesn't work, go from there. Could the problem be coming from the dashboard end of the connection? Any advice is appreciated. :confuse:
  • My gas gauge started to act flukey and undependable. Had pump & gage assy replaced at
    local garage. $500. Worked OK for about 2 months - now has stuck at 3/4 to full and I know it is about to run out of gas at 320 miles (thanks to ethanol). Took back to garage, they said
    again that they replaced it but I have some serious questions because the story don't check
    with what I can figure out just by commons sense and math. Anybody know is there any where that I can disconnect wires between tank and gauge and do a do an electrical or continuity test ?
  • I have a 2002 century. Similar problem dropped from 26 to 22 MPG in
    winter. I relate it to the additive, whether ethanol or some other
    mandated concoction legislated by our know nothing but everything govmnt
  • rickm4rickm4 Posts: 2
    My problem is that the car runs fine most of the time. Perfectly. Then suddenly, won't start. Will crank, but not catch. I can let it sit for awhile, try again, and it will fire right up. Any ideas?
  • Rick, Sorry never had that problem with my century but did have it with an 80 Ford Van at
    one time. It drove me and three mechanics crazy till I finally found a fellow who solved it.
    It was, at that time, an ignition module located inside the distributor assy - but that may not have been e f i Good luck Rojeur
  • chaykochayko Posts: 1
    hey so my power windows wont work i have replaced everything and when i hit the switch it makes this kind of grinding noise i was just woundering if u had any idea of what u could do to fix it
  • fgantfgant Posts: 1
    I have removed the brake caliper... what do I do next to remove the front wheel hub and bearing assembly?
  • Do you need to replace the bearings?
  • doggaldoggal Posts: 17
    I have a Buick Century 1994 with 70K miles on it. Drove it yesterday and this morning it does not want to start. New battery a month ago.
    What could be wrong ?
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