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Ford F-250 Owners



  • check the bottom fuel filter, or a clogged fuel pick up tube in the tank, you can use a 36mm scket for the filter cap
  • Thanks, I did get to change the lower filter this weekend and still have same symptoms. Is the fuel pick up tube difficult to access or can a shade tree hacker get at it? I appreciate the help.
  • Fairly simple.
    Remember the power to the pump, even though the ignition is off and the lead is "cold", treat it as if it were hot. Lower the tank enough to remove the leads and tape them off. Haven' t dropped a tank like yours, but they are all about the same.
    Being overly "safe" is not a waste of time.
    Just be sure that you drain down the tank as much as you can before you lower it.
    It is much heavier than you think. Disconnect the filler tube and siphoning is much more straight forward and you won't get the siphon hose stuck.
    Don't say to yourself "Ah, I only have 10 gallons in there, I can handle it".
    NO, you can NOT!
    Even with a lift under the tank, that shifting fuel can give you fits and things get broken. Add the weight of the tank to the weight of the sloshing fuel, and you have more than you can handle.
    Been there, done that, but I guarantee I won't repeat that performance.
  • I came to site for help with my son's F250 tranny. I saw your post and I remembered my husband had the same issue with his F350. He did figure out the problem, unfortunately I do not remember what caused it. I will ask him tonight and post his answer. Hopefully it will help you.
  • wedellwedell Posts: 2
    My F250 1999 5.4L runs well until I put my 11ft truck slide on camper into bed. The truck then starts to miss on several cylinders when I slowly accelerate between 30-50 mph,,, at 55 mph it seems to smooth out. When I step down on gas pedal the truck delivers full power after down shifting but returns to missing condition after I lighten up on pedal. Any ideas?
  • Could be one of several things. First I would start with the fuel system. Make sure your fuel filter is clean. If it has been a while since it was changed I would change it out. Next check out the fuel injectors. Run a couple tanks of gas with a good fuel injector cleaner . I use sea foam from advance auto stores. Next I would replace spark plugs if it hasn't been tuned up in a while. Next check spark plugs wires and then the coils. Some times a bad coil will do fine with no load and then break up under load witch would be adding a camper. My 2001 f150 had a similar problem and it turned out to be the # 8 coil. This model had a coil going to each cylinder. A 35 dollar obll tester pinpointed which cylinder was missing. # 8 was a bear to get to but a 50 dollar coil later (advance auto) truck was running fine.
  • Thanks, I will give it all a shot. Hopefully this will cure this beast.
  • My husband & I just purchased a 2005 Ford F250 - drove it one day & the engine light came on. It was the coil - took it back to the dealership since it is still under warranty - they fixed it. We drove it one day & the check engine light is back on again. Has anyone has this problem over & over again? Sure hope the dealership can fix whatever it is.
  • No.. Take the truck back and turn it in. If you are hell bent on keeping it, have them hook it up to a scan tool. There are a million reasons why the check engine light will come on.
  • Can anyone tell me what kind of fuel mileage they are getting with a newer model (possibly even a 2008) ford 250 crew cab with a 5.4L with a 4.10 rear, 4x4??? I'm looking at buying one, or should i go 3.73 rear?? either can handle my towing needs.
  • The fuel mpg I get isn't relevant because I have a diesel motor and not a gas motor, to which you refer. If either rear end will meet your towing needs, I would hands down get the 3:73 rear end. It is far superior all around and will give you better mpg. Especially if you do a lot of freeway driving as the 4:10 will operate at a higher rpm. I couldn't tell you what a gas mpg is. But, diesel is about 12-16mpg. Good luck.

  • pambripambri Posts: 1
    Hubby is redoing the interior of our work horse 1990 f 250 super cab 4x4. Have the seats reupolsetered and now looking to replace the plastic seatbelt covers that hold the seat belt buckle up near the seat on the bucket seats. Through the yrs of use and Florida sun they have cracked. Ford says part is dicontinued. Tried salvage yard & ebay search with no luck and multiple internet sites. Any ideas?
    love our 17 yr old truck with 200,000 miles. Thanks!
  • Tried after market suppliers? Tried the north country salvage yards? We have lower UV problems because we "shed" our vehicles due to ice and snow problems. The yards up here have a large interconnected network of yards. IE If you ask them to "post" it on the network you might do better.
    Have you looked into the ones on cars which may be identical or at least very similar.
    If you aren't doing a collector restoration, then more "doors" are open.
    Let me know if you can't get into the yards up here, and I will help.
    When you inquired, what years did the belt guide cover? 1986 to 1993 for example.

  • I have an 04 F250 6.0- bought it used in 05.
    06-63,000 miles White Smoke -First time in the shop in 06 for 5 weeks so they could change out the EGR and Oil cooler. Under warranty, cost 100.00 -had no other problems with it
    07-Did regular check maintenance on it for 07.
    08-120,000 miles-starting to loose coolant-found radiator hose, thermostat and water pump bad-water pump had less then 50% fins left on it-cost 1100.00 dollars. Two weeks later, the dreaded white smoke-now it is the EGR and Oil Cooler and a set of Heads for the tune of 7,800.00 dollars.

    Call Ford HQR for some help-reply "NO", did not buy the truck new and did a couple of oil changes myself.

    Ford knows they have an systemic problem with these EGR cooler and also with the fact that 50% of the fins where eroded away caused this to happen.
    Every time I did bring the truck into a Dealer to get it serviced, other F250-350 owners walked up and asked me if I have had problem with mine, 75% say they have had problem with the EGR's.

    Needless to say, I will NOT being buying any NEW Ford at all in the future.

    Really ashame as this is my 3rd F truck since 99, I like the F-serious over the Chevy but I can not afford to dump money into a POS diesel engine when the MFG knows they have a problem with it.

    :mad: I figure-10,000 dollars of my money versus 50,000.00 (New Truck) X 25 potential buyers that read this and buy Chevy or Dodge equals 1 million dollars of Fords. Not a fare trade off for me but what the hell, customer service went out the door in the USA when we join NAFTA anyway.
  • i am gonna be in the market for a newer truck and money is a issue. i wanted to know if i should get a powerstroke or a gas truck. i would like to now what u think of both and the MPG of each. i will be plowing with this truck when i get it
  • Hey, I bought a 2000 F-250 7.3L diesel. I have owned several gas trucks. Now that I have a Diesel I will probably never own anything but. I get about 15mpg in the city and 19 on the hwy. This is with 35" tires too. I brag to everybody about my truck. I strongly advise you to spend the little bit extra to get a diesel. Hope this helps.
  • i just bought a 2004 F250 6.0 i was wondering if there are any websites that could tell me the specs of my truck i.e. rear end torque rating HP anything. all help is appreciated
  • i was wondering if i could change my dash mounted 4x4 selector to a floor mounted lever selecter
  • I am determined to run this truck until it can not run no more.That maybe sooner than I think. Yesterday $450.oo for 2 rear brake drums and hardware to fix the emergency brakes. Today $1400.oo to replace both exhaust manifolds and hardware.Next is sheet metal body repairs, 2 new front fenders, and bed repairs. The front ball joints and axles are aboutshot to. The engine was re-manufactured 3 yrs ago along with a new oil pan. The tranny was rebuilt 5 yrs ago, a new rear gas tank was installed last year, the saddle tank will be replaced next month...I got a brand new saddle tank free from a guy who bought it, and decided to junk the truck instead..guess he's smarter than I. The truck has a grande total of 112,692 miles on it, FORD TOUGH !
  • i have a small leak behind turbo. does anyone have an idea what it might be and how to fix it?
  • I am interested in hearing from 08 Ford F 250 owners with the new 6.4 diesel engine. I'd like to hear how many MPG you are getting in city/highway. Also would like to know what gear ratio you are running. I am considering an 08 F250 4x4 supercab short bed with the 6.4 diesel and an auto trans. and 3:73 gears. I would like to hear from owners with similar setup about MPG and any other major troubles. Thanks.
  • fray1955fray1955 Posts: 1
    my 2008 f250 superduty 6.4 lt diesel is putting fuel onto the engine oil. Three lt in six thousand miles. The dealer and ford tell me thats normal, but there only fooling themselves. The high pressure fuel pump has been replaces, with no results. Is there anyone else having this problem
  • I have a 2003 F250 FX4 (5.4L V8) with Flowmaster exhaust. I would like to replace the stock exhaust manifolds with a set of headers to make it sound even better. I am not sure what I should be looking for (shorty's, y pipes, longs ect.). I am having trouble finding applications to fit my truck also. Does anyone have any advise?
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    If you are "considering" the 6.4 Diesel. You IMHO should not buy it.

    Either you need the power and towing capability of the Diesel, or you don't.

    From everything I've heard from owners and on these Forums, there is little meaningful difference between 5.4L V8, 6.8L V10 or the 6.4L Diesel MPG.

    Get the engine that matches your needs.

    Its a $7,000 upgrade to the diesel, that buys a lot of gas,

    IF gas gets to $4 a gallon, $7k will buy you 1750 gallons and at 10 miles per gallon, that buys you a year of gas and them some.

  • I wouldn't do this. There is no reason to. If it isn't broke, don't fix it. If you don't know what you are looking for, you probably don't know what you are doing either. I would not do this. The headers will not make that much of an increase in sound, but it could change the compression of the engine and it's ability to off gas. Not to mention create more leaks at the gasket sites where the headers meet the exhaust. I wouldn't do it kid.
  • Thanks for the input. I have been told that before. I don't think I will get them. I will just fix the original gaskets. Is this a job a "do it yourselfer" could handle? I don't want to tear anything up in the process. The truck never gets drivin in the rain but still shows signs of rust on the manifold bolts.Would it be better to remove them with an impact or a regular ratchet.
  • No problem. That is what this great forum is about. Helping one another. I think you made a wise choice. You should be able to switch out the gaskets. The problem with that is there are a lot of things in your way. That engine can be complicated. You probably already know this, but Ford manifold bolts have had a lot of problems with rust. In fact I reccomend replacing these bolts all together and using a ratchet system for this. An impact gun can shear the bolt heads off because of the massive torque. So, get some new gaskets and bolts and gasket sealer and away you go. I hope this helps you out. Have a good day and good luck.

  • johnminnjohnminn Posts: 52
    Do be sure to carefully torque the bolts carefully and in the proper sequence. The most common pattern is a helix starting at the center and working outward.
    I prefer to do that last 20# of torque in 5# increments.
    Some feel that is being “just too careful”, but I have never had a gasket failure after I have done it that way. Even when the “experts” told me I would have to have the heads and manifold trued.
    Granted, I do check them with a straight edge to make sure that they are not badly warped.
    DO check the new headers to be sure they are true. I have seen new ones which were not properly milled.
    DO be sure to find out if their torque spec is with wet (oiled) or dry bolts.
  • I have an aluminum 2 horse trailer which I tow with my 1999 ford F250 7.3 diesel.. Complete weight of the trailer with the horses in it are about 4000 pounds, Now I am looking to put a Lance cabover in the bed of the truck weighing about 2000 pounds, Would I be able to have the cabover and pull the horse trailer without boosting up the rear suspension?
    Thanks for any help I can get!!!

    I was wondering if anyone has converted to veggie oil yet, I am thinking I might. I was also wondering what chip works the best to improves millage.
    By the way for all you ford owners out there I average 22.5 on a flat surface driving 58. In town I average 16. I drive alot in the summer with the truck and on 300 mile trip I average 20-21 with out a chip. I have been told that the 6.4 has plastic injectors and the 6.0 block cracks around 130K; my cousin works at a ford dealer. I know alot of people where I live have kept the 7.3 because the 6.0 is [non-permissible content removed]. If I where to buy a new truck I would get a Dodge, But I love mine to much to ever get rid of it.
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