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Ford F-250 Owners



  • I've recently purchased a 2000 f-250 7.3L diesel. Tonight I went to start it and every thing was normal until I turned the ignition to start it and the truck went dead. I had the electrical system checked two days ago and it tested OK. Everything is out on the truck, no door locks or lights. Has this happened to anyone else and if so what was the problem?
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    check both batteries for proper voltage. if nothing works it sounds like a cable or battery connection. when you had the electrical system checked did they do an output test?
  • put a voltmeter on both batteries and they are in the neighborhood of 12 volts. Not sure on the output test but I think the answer is yes. A cable could be the culprit but would that explain no power to even the minor accessories, say if a terminal on only one battery was bad. The connections are all tight and appear to be free of corrosion. Thanks the help BTW
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    most of the cables on that truck are a one piece that connects both batteries. it runs across the front on the radiator core support to the hot side on the passinger side from the drivers side. then down to the starter. there is also hot wire leads to the alternator and the solenoid on the fender. the voltage should be around 12.80 also 1 battery will usually support lights windows doors and things like that but won't crank the truck. check all the under hood fuses make sure you have voltage at the main power wire. this should be on the drivers side fender.
  • Thanks for the advice, I got it going, Just bought this and it is my first diesel so wasn't sure how the batteries were connected. I'd already checked the fuses. The battery terminals looked good but I took them all off and cleaned them up, more to eliminate that as a possibility. The passenger side terminals had some corrosion that could be seen only after they were disconnected. Once they were cleaned and put back on the problem was solved and the truck cranked and started normally. I guess what I'm hearing is that the batteries are connected in series and the corroded terminals on the passenger battery prevented anything on the truck from getting power. Thanks for the information. Learned a lot from this.
  • jesusbjesusb Posts: 2
    I've already sent you e-mail. I'm new in this thing in this club. Please, check
    the e-mail (looking for used brackets for my 2 external mirrors). They are full of
    corrosion. Thanks, Jesus Beltran
  • jesusbjesusb Posts: 2
    Hey guys !!!!
    I'm still waiting for any subjections....
    I need 2 brackets that hold the exterior mirros. The long brackets are ok. I need
    the "plackets" (top and bottom) joint to the door.
    95 ford diesel power-stroke. Thanks. JesusB
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,024
    A reporter from a large national newspaper would like to speak to consumers who are holding onto their cars versus selling them or buying a new one because of economic uncertainties. Please respond to with your daytime contact information no later than Friday, January 30, 2009.

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  • I have a 2008 F-250 Crew Cab with the towing package. It seems to have really unacceptable ride qualities. As you're driving along at highway speeds it seems to get into a (rear suspension) bouncing that will rattle your teeth. It seems that the onset occurs after going over a bump. Has anyone else run into the same issues??

  • nealjnealj Posts: 1
    89 F-250 with 5.8L will not start. Last year I lost power to the fuel pump so I hot-wired the pump from the fuse box. A few weeks ago the engine would rev up to 2500 rpm in park and neutral and would never come down until placed in gear. Now the engine will not start. Fuel pump is not the problem. Engine will start with starter fluid sprayed in intake. Any ideas on the problem?
  • 95% chance its either the fuel injecctors or the fuel injecter module. im gonna say its the module. i would check that first. or it could be a simple fuel filter.
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    probably needs glo plugs. take an multi meter and unplug the wire and check the resistance if it reads zero that one is fine check all eight.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    He's got a 351, not a diesel.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • aztjaztj Posts: 1
    I've got the exact same symptoms after switching to biodiesel. i've replace both fuel filters and that had zero effect. did you ever find out what the problem was?
  • cwo99cwo99 Posts: 3
    Hi and Help!,

    I have a 99 F250 Diesel. I am the original owner. It has 220,000 miles and a 6- speed manual tranny. I tow a big six-horse trailer quite a bit and have a SuperChips adjustable system for the truck. For over a year now the truck won't start unless it has been plugged in. I have had the truck into the Ft. Collins, CO dealership three times (including right now) and they can't seem to get to the bottom of it. I have had the glow plug relay replaced several times, numerous glow plugs, wiring harnesses, and the pcm once. I believe it has a recalled and replaced cam shaft sensor as well. If the truck sits for a couple days, it won't start unless I use starting fluid, which I don't like to use. When it does start, it runs on less than the 8 cylinders until completely warm. The truck has no problem starting the same day once it has been running earlier in the day. What the heck??
  • cwo99cwo99 Posts: 3

    Your front hubs won't engage because the hubs are locked in with a vacuum system. If the vacuum system wears out, the 4x4 light comes on, the transfer case engages, but the hubs don't. It happened to me once. Just be happy it did not fail when the truck was in 4 wheel drive! That also happened to me once - hubs would not disengage but light goes out. Blew up my tansfer case at 80 mph! Vacuum activated hubs - what a joke! My hubs say "lock" and "auto". Not the old "lock" and "free."
  • I have a 2002 F250 and the door ajar light on the dash is staying on even with all the doors shut. The dome light stays on also. After I drive for a few minutes, the light goes off on the dash, the doors lock, and the dome light goes off. Anyone else have this problem?
  • jim00jim00 Posts: 5
    I have 2000 F 250 mine needed shocks @ 12,000 miles and the chrome rims would throw off the tape - on wheel balancing weights.
    If you tow a lot and then unhitch for a highway trip, then "lightness" of the back of the truck can set up your oscillation. Ck the shocks go for Monroe ( Napa) HD (yellow)
    air shocks or the expensive red&white Ranchos. Ck your tire balancing AND air pressure ( ie 72-80 psi for "E" rated 10 ply tires) Hope this helps - j

    PS. Count your rear spring leafs (and HD helper spring if any) to make sure they match...
  • jim00jim00 Posts: 5
    My experiences good and bad the last 8 years:
    1 Oil leak Appx 70 -75k "not seen" by Walmart until my dirt driveway showed
    a puddle.
    2 Frt Whl bearings @ 101,k 150,k and 212,k first two sets defective from Ford.
    3 Cam Positioning Sensor 170,k ?? NOW I find a Jan ' 07 recall notice @
    (this caused all sorts of dia-nogs form fuelpump to every injector needing to be
    4 Electrical short in Wire Harness under left front Valve cover (for real!!). This
    caused the truck to just shut down any old time, worse than # 3 CPSensor.
    5 Two Fuel Leaks 1.- fuel drain petcock replaced and 2. - a fuel line from the
    bottom underside up to the fuel bowl rubbed itself a hole.
    6 Oil leak "O" ring @ bottom left front oil pump? behind Pwr Strg pump.
    7 Bad side wall blowouts of Firestone ATX 275 16's all eight of them. I now run
    Dunlop 245 16 E rated 10 ply street tires
    8 Throw in one radiator (use the Diesel Radiator additive!!!) Three alternators and
    two (serpentine) belt tensioners (sp) - the latest one is designed much better.

    I learned. Do not go to Ford, find a good honest trained mechanic who "likes" diesels. In Savannah GA, I trust C & W Diesel Repair in Garden City.

    Do use the Ford or Carquest Diesel Radiator additive, and a fuel additive - Lucas is good, and throw in a little transmission fluid into your fuel every month or so. Keep your tires at 6-8 pounds below max ( 80 is max. for "E" rating). Change the oil after you've added the second quart (about 3 - 5 k miles between oil changes) And please use a HD Lucas Oil additive at each oil change and try to work your way up to Valvoline (Napa) straight 40 Weight oil in 5 gallon containers - you'll go 5 - 8 k
    between oil changes.
    Hope this helps. I wish I had a mechanical (diesel) background. This is from my
    experience and mechanics will smile and be happy to replace each injector (all 8)
    for $300. + a piece. Thanks for your time - jim
  • Hello

    I have a 2003 F250 diesel. Have replaced the alternator three times since December 22nd 2008. Cost a small fortune at the dealer but they cannot fine anything wrong. After about twenty minutes of ideal time alternator gets so hot you can fry eggs on it. Have insatlled two new batteries about two weeks ago and still have the same problem. Alternator now gone again. Batteries don't seem to be draining as I used a amp meter while the truck is off and no load. While engine is running and everything off total load is about 25 amps. I am at a loss here with a truck that I cannot use. Any suggections would be great appreciated. Thank you in advance.
  • jim00jim00 Posts: 5
    Hi. Sorry, I'm not a mechanic, but if you have the time, go back through the past pages. There are some very good people on this thread who may be able to advise you. Good Luck!
  • jim00jim00 Posts: 5
    Hi. Also sorry, I'm not a mechanic, but if you go back to previous pages you may be able to contact a skilled mechanic on this thread. I can tell you on Summer I once had to change a alternator and two batteries when I my truck was running 10 -12 hours a day with an 110 volt 400 watt inverter running a 13" TV and Nintendo all day long (not to mention the Barney and Disney movie songs.
    The batteries and alternator got hot, all the water in my "sealed" batteries evaporated, and even though I managed to fill them, they still drained down the batteries' sides and the mounting brackets and grounded themselves all over again to repeat the cycle.
    You may have a loose wire over by the fuse-able link on the right inner fender (I think on the starter soliniod?) next to a vacuum pump. I fried my link (IT runs all the way to the back of the alternator) and it mine sparked and became weak (extra resistance) when I switched alternators w/o disconnecting the batteries first!
    I know, you try to learn from your mistakes. Also make sure your batteries are not being slowly drained overnight. There was some kind of test you could do to see if a wire, light (glovebox light?) or some solinoid was on or grounded. Also check to see if your aftermarket radio, phone charger, radar detector etc. was properly wired and or removed when you bought the truck and a live wire is just hanging touching ground (metal), and slowly draining the batteries so that when you do run your truck the alternator is overcharging to compensate for the drain or grounded wire. Also check for you model's recalls. There may have been some regarding headlights - interior lights etc. Good Luck
  • texstaxitexstaxi Posts: 2
    Had the same problem. The switch is in each door opening mechanisim and is activated by a plunger. It gets gunked up but can be cleaned and oiled. I replaced my first one. Pull off the inner door panel and its located under the latch.
  • aliret1aliret1 Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2008 with 26k and I got about 9.5 MPG towing a 20' trailer with a john deer tractor, and a yamaha kodiak in the back of the truck. I think I am getting about 15 MPG light truck. Does your truck get better that that? What did you do to help?
  • aliret1aliret1 Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2008 with 26k and I got about 9.5 MPG towing a 20' trailer with a john deer tractor, and a yahaha kodiak in the back of the truck. I think I am getting about 15 MPG light truck. Were you able to do something to help with your fuel mileage? Have you looked into those performance chips?
  • I have a 2006 F-250 diesel with 38k miles. A couple of months ago I went home for lunch, after lunch I try to start the truck and it would turn over but not start. After about a day it started just fine. It has done the same thing again, except this time it still has not started after about 20 hours. Any ideas?
  • I have an 97 F250 Crew Cab 7.3 turbo PS Heavy Duty, I'm in need of a vaccum pump, I called Ford and must say they are quite expensive for the part . now I have located several on E-Bay , and some online parts stores.
    The problem I have was I asked the parts counter guy at Ford for the part # and he refused to hand it over, Does anyone know where I can get this number, or if they know which years will fit my truck, from what I've learnt in 97 two different engines were mounted one had the 2 electrical plugs each side valve cover for glow plugs and earlier models had the single electrical plug for glow plugs. Mine has the 2 plugs per side. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, I'd like to have my brakes safe again instead of being unpredictable because of the lack of assited vacuum pressure to the booster

    Thank you
  • mjr6262mjr6262 Posts: 1
    I'm trying to find an electrical problem with my 95 f250 powerstroke. The other morning the truck was completely dead. I replaced the selinoid on the fender and I found the #17 fuse under the hood was blown (trailer Battery charge). We tried to jump the truck but could not. I bought 2 new batteries. The truck cranked right up. 5 hours later it was completely dead again. any ideas
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