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2001 Dodge Ram

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Comments

  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    You may want to switch your front tires (side-to-side). Took my 99 1500 quad in last week to the dealer to have an alignment done. I had rotated my tires as per the manual requirements. Once I did this, my truck had a noticeable drift to the left. The dealer said it was out of spec and performed the alignment. Test drove and it still drifted to the left. They then swapped the front tires and the truck now drifts slightly to the right. They said it was the tires. I discussed this with an independent repair shop and the owner said the tires are the likely culprit. Said that more than likely one tire is slightly larger (or smaller) in diameter than the other. This would make the truck pull to one side or another while within alignment specifications. He also said when buying new tires, you should always buy ones that were manufactured sequentially. There should be a production number or lot number on the tire label. You want tires either from the same production lot or produced sequentially (depending how the tires are marked). Makes sense to me. One tire could have been made in the middle of winter and another in the middle of summer. Humidity, temperature, etc. could have a major impact on the end product. Good luck.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    the dealer thought of that. They swapped my front tires this morning. But I don't see any difference. I had also checked that the tires were inflated the same. I will discuss this with the shop where it is to be done. They have a good rep and see what my risk are of it becoming worse. Possibly running the right front a little higher on pressure might help keep it from drifting right, but I don't like that idea either. I'l wait an see what the shop says.
  • eaganeagan Posts: 25
    Out of all the options/models etc.. on the ram, which combination gets the best overall mpg. i was reading before about 18mpg with the cummins..is that true? if so or if any other combo gets better please let me know,

    dan
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    eagan,

    THE most efficient Ram is the following: Ram 2500 Regular cab 2wd, Cummins, 6 speed manual, 3.54 axle. That combination can achieve the upper 20s in highway driving with cruise control or a very steady foot. Comparatively, I have the heaviest Ram (3500 Club 4x4, Cummins, automatic, 3.54), and with the cruise control set at 57mph/1600rpm, I got a steady 24.5mpg.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    If you don't mind I'd like to ask a few questions.
    How many miles on your truck?
    Do you do any heavy towing, and if so what kind of mileage and peformance do you get?
    I have a 2001 quad 2500 diesel with auto and 3.54 and pull a fifth wheel in the 8500 to 9000 lb range. I just got back from a trip in only slightly hilly country and could not run in OD without constant shifting. Running with OD off is so noisy it drove us nuts. I ran all the way out, about 250 miles, in OD and got 11 mpg, came back out of OD and got 9.5. I'm not happy with these numbers, my 98 360 did just as good without the noise. Should I be talking to my dealer?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    warfish,

    I have 60,000 right now - truck was delivered may 24, 1996. I don't tow, so any load I carry is in the bed. more often, I have large items as opposed to heavy items, but I totally trashed some half-tons in my past, so I wanted a truck that was gonna take what I dish out.

    You should be getting a little better mileage than you have noted - 12 or 13 at highway speed. A few things will affect that however - altitude, humidity and temperature, windy conditions.
    If you're getting in the low 20s empty on the highway, then it's probably not a problem with the truck. Before your next towing trip with a full trailer, make sure you give all your fluids a good once over, even though your truck is new - you'd be surprised how many dealers don't make sure the coolant isn't full.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    Thanks for the input!
    I get about 18.5 with normal driving empty. I keep the tire pressures a little on the high side and the fluids are checked often. I'm checking with every one I can outside of the dealer to see if what I'm seeing is normal. The dealer will be a last resort.
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    What is the shift kit, what will it do for me and what will it cost?
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    I too might be interested in a shift kit. However I have an appointment for my truck next Monday. My problem this past weekend was I could not run cruse control at all while towing my 9000 pound fifth wheel. It would just stay in 3rd. I could keep it in 4th manually if I babied it at 65 on the flat. On hills I had to go easy on the gas and slow down more than with my 1/2 ton Chevy 350 or it would downshift. If it was down shifted to 3rd on a hill as I go over the crest and going down hill it still would not go into 4th. I would have to let up on the gas for it to shift. Anyhow I explained the problem to the service manager and he said they'd take care of it. .... Tomorrow is my appt with the alignment shop for my problem of pulling to the right. Funny thing, It tracked strait while towing. Rode smooth and no bouncing (Porposing) like with my 1/2 ton. Felt so in control 65 seemed slow. I'll drive it around town solo this afternoon and see if its still pulling to the right solo. Gas mileage was 8.1 for two tanks on fairly flat with small hills. Still I was in 3rd quite a bit. Two tanks on hillier going were 6.5. I'm hoping if the shifting problem can be fixed my mileage will go up. I noticed 4th gave about 1.5 mpg better that 3rd on flat ground according to the computer. I am expecting 8 - 8.5 overall towing from research I did. I didn't get that. ...... Rich
  • eric16eric16 Posts: 38
    The kit I had installed was by Transgo. The shop pulled out the valve body and rebuilt it plus drilled the OD valve bigger. They increased the line pressure so you have better shift lockup. Before when the truck shifted into OD it slip in then the TC would lockup. Now it jumps in and the TC right behind it. The cost of the kit installed was 225.00 plus tax.

    Eric16
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    Thanks for the info. I called Transgo and their tech said that would not help the problem Richinks and I seem to be sharing. He suggested I take it to the dealer and have the computer coding checked. There May be a service bulletin on this but the tech wasn't sure. I'm taking it to the dealer next Wednesday but I won't be taking a trip with the camper until mid July to know for sure if it's fixed.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    Yes, I have an appointment Monday. But this weekend I will be taking it on the road solo. Be interesting if it down shifts in the Kansas Flinthills solo. My other trucks and cars didn't. ... Also I am toget it back late this afternoon from the alignment shop. (The dealer did not have the equipment to set caster and sent me to this alignment shop). I took it in yesterday morning and about 2:30 they called and said they did not have specs for the 2001 and had asked the dealer. The dealer did not get back to them until 2pm. They said it should be done by noon today. At noon they said after 4pm. I hope its not worse. ... Back to shifting. Shifts seem ok but on easy acceleration there is a slight shutter when the TC locks up. With the fifth wheel it really shakes the truck. If I accelerate a little faster it doesn't do it. I guess I'll just have to put my foot in it(G). ... Rich
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    Picked up the truck from the alignment shop. Seems fine, no pull. They told me it didn't require the axle to be bent as the dealers service guy thought. I don't fully understand it, but the wheel was too far forward by several degrees. Anyhow it seems fine.
  • I had the service manager drive my truck today. He agreed that it is all over the road at highway speeds. It's going back in for more work - this time on the steering box. They're going to work on it when they replace the seat storage console lid. The plastic pieces that hold the lid open are snapping off. There's only one left on it. This steering problem isn't unusual, I'm finding out, so don't hesitate to talk to your dealer if yours is giving you trouble.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    Took my truck in yesterday morning and 27 hours later the service dept called to say they are finished with the truck and there was no trouble found. She suggested if it won't stay in OD to turn OD off as the manual suggest. I told her that is not what I brought in for. I know what hunting is. It won't shift back into OD even on a downhill. So Now I am to go pickup my truck, install the fifth wheel hitch in the bed, hook up my fifth wheel and take one of them for a test drive. What a pain but now I wish I had done that in the first place. I don't think the order writer understood the problem. And if there is no error code in the computer they won't touch it. I can see this turning into a night mare. Rich
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    Got all hitched up and drove west out of town (dealer is on west side so convienient). Truck did not fail every time but most. But a couple of times it did shift into OD on the flat. ... The sevice manager himself hooked up a computer to see what was going on. Then he checked the throttle cable at the rear top of the engine compartment. He moved it to be slightly freer I believe. We then took a test and the truck shifted fine. Only shifted down to third a couple of times but then upshifted to OD at the top of the hill as it should. Even worked with cruise control on. I pushed down the throttle on flat ground to get it to down shift and it would upshift to OD when I left off (using cruise control). So now I'm not sure what to think. Guess I will just try it again in a few weeks on our next outing and see what it does. ... Rich
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    Sounds encouraging. I take mine in to the dealer tomorrow for a very similar condition. Mines a diesel but the symptoms sound almost identical. Lets keep in touch. Ken
  • nascar6nascar6 Posts: 113
    I've noticed that only sometimes that when I apply the brakes moderately hard, they grab well then seem to fade forcing me to push a lot harder on the pedal. It's almost like the rear brakes release. I've done the self-adjuster trick. Backing up then applying brakes, but I don't know if that's doing anything. Anyway, how much wear should be on rear brakes at 1300 miles? Not enough to need adjustment I bet. I also know about manually adjusting the rears too. I just don't think they're worn enough.

    Any guesses??

    2001 2500 QC Diesel 6 Speed 4X4

    nascar6
  • Mike:
    I haven't noticed any problems with my brakes, but I agree with you - you shouldn't need any adjustment this soon. Could it have something to do with the rear ABS? Do you have front ABS? I only have the rear, and I must admit I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to ABS.
  • nascar6nascar6 Posts: 113
    Dave,

    ABS on all 4 corners. It's done this only a handful of times. I just know that something isn't quite right. I can't really describe it only that when you put on the brakes, you should feel a constant stopping force. Well when it happens, it feels like someone is pushing the truck from the back while it tries to stop. I hope it either goes away or it gets extremely worse. If it got worse, then I could show the dealer what it does. As it is now, they would never find out what's wrong, because it would never do it for them.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    I've heard of a number of problems with Dodge brakes in the past. And they do seem behind the times with drums on the rear. I have 4 wheel ABS (part of the SLT+ package). I had an experience in Jeff City with my fifth wheel. It was raining on 4 lane US 50 when an accident up ahead. Traffic stopped quickly. I put on the brakes and the whole rig stopped much quicker than with my previous truck and in a strait line. Of course the trailer was helping too. I was pleased. ... Rich
  • cdeancdean Posts: 1,110
    Rich
    Sounded like your Throttle valve was out of adjustment in the tranny. The tranny needs to know how much you're pushing down the pedal before it decides when to shift...so sounds like that was out of spec.
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    I had my truck at the dealer today and got just what I suspected, a song and dance act. I was told in no uncertain terms that I must not try to tow in OD. When I showed them page 160 in the owners manual what it says under "Towing with an automatic transmission", they stuck to their story, even though it does not say that. The way I read it you should expect it to shift out of OD when driving in hilly areas, when heavily loaded, or into heavy headwinds. I can buy all that but it doesn't say don't do it and it doesn't say it should hunt on level ground trying to maintain 60 mph. I told them if they can show me anywhere it says in print not to tow in OD I'd believe them, but no such thing exists. I don't know where to go from here but it looks like they sold me a truck that is not capable of living up to it's advertised abilities. Ken
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    I was advised by more than one Dodge dealer that I should not opt for the 4.10 gears, that 3.54 would give me optimum performance from the Cummins and 4.10 would cause it to over rev. The 4.10 gears are meant for V8 and V10 engines, I was told, because they need the Rs to get the torque.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Backing up is basically useless to adjust the brakes. You have to have them manually adjusted regularly; in fact, the 98 owners manual actually said to have them done at each oil change (I haven't seen a newer manual to see if that is still there). Newer (99-00-01) Rams have improved proportioning valves to force the rear to do more work, but they're still not as good as they could be. I have 60K miles on my 96 - I'm on the 5th set of front pads, and the original rear shoes - they're not glazed, and the drums aren't scored.

    Look for improvement this fall, when the 2500s and 3500s gain 4 wheel discs as standard equipment. The 1500 gets redesigned in the beginning if calendar 2001, so they will probably get their new braking system then - the 2500s and 3500s carry on until the early part of 2002 before their new chassis/body.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    As you may have seen in my post, the dealer wanted at first to do nothing because no error code was set. Then the service writer took me to the service manager. He said not to tow in OD. When I said that was wrong, the service writer said she read the owners manual and they did not feel it was clear on the subject. So then the Service manager volunteered to call the Dodge tech line (or something like that). They told him that if its not going into OD the computer they hook up to the truck (right above the brake petal) would show the reason not. It could be a problem with temperature or a whole bunch of reasons. After I came back to the shop with my fifth wheel in tow, the Service manager himself hooked up the computer. Unfortuanatly he decided to adjust the throttle linkage (in the back top of the engine compartment). When we went for the test ride the truck performed perfectly. cdean may have hit on the problem or at least in the area. ... My truck is the V10 with 4.10 and auto. I also have the LT265 tires. So at 65 mph in 3rd I am near 2900 rpm and in OD around 2000. ... My question to you is with the 3.54 auto and your size tires, what is your rpm in 3rd and OD at the speed you wish to tow? Where does those rpm values fall in your diesels torque/ horse power curves? I have been under the impression with the 3.54 3rd would be the gear of choice and with 4.10 OD (for ideal conditions). Of course with headwinds or hill both would downshift a gear. If you must tow in 3rd you still have the advantage over the 4.l0 of better solo mileage. ... I have talked with several Diesel owners with 4.10 who tow in OD as well as V10. But I didn't ask any of them what speed they tow at. My best guess is with 3.54 and LT245 tires you are towing at 2500 in 3rd or 1750 in OD. My charts show both gears in the 420 foot pounds of torque range but OD would be down in horse power, about 150 hp vs 210 for 3rd. It may not tow a heavy load with that little HP. Any comments? I'm not pretending I know I'm just theorizing.
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    I have 265 tires also and at just under 65 I'm turning about 1650 in OD and 2300 in 3rd. If I'm to believe what I read in the brochure that puts me almost at the peak of torque and at 125 hp in OD, but Dodge tells us the '01 Cummins is the same whether you have a stick or an auto, so that would put the hp up a little more. If the truck isn't up to the task then why do they sell it as such a great towing vehicle? One problem I'm having is with the credibility of the DC sales division. I'd really like to get this truck working like their ads promise but it may not be possible.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    Every salesman I talked to tried to sell me the 3.54. One went so far as to say the 3.54 will pull more than the 4.10. Guess what he had on his lot? You cann't trust them at all as we know. ... I know little about the diesel. I know little about torque vs horsepower. I know torque is a twisting force and torque is more important with towing and horsepower with drag racing. But I suspect both are needed for both towing and drag racing only in different proportions. ... I guess what i'd do is ask them to call the Dodge Tech line my service manager called. Or hook up the computer and see why your running in the gear you are. If they refuse I'd then call the 800 number we called to find out our ship date and complain to them. There is probably a better place but thats what little I know.
  • cdeancdean Posts: 1,110
    Rich, what the hell, i'll give it a try.

    basically you want Horsepower. Torque is the ability to move a load-but horsepower is load at a speed. Horsepower is what gets you up the hill at 50 mph rather than 30. Thats why a 4.10 pulls better---it allows your engine to operate at a higher horsepower level.

    Engines with the flat torque curves like your V10 and the Cummins, will pull better at higher rpms, because they have basically the same torque at 1800 rpms as they do at 2400 rpms.

    If you have 400 ft lbs of torque at 1800 rpms, you are getting about 137 hp. if torque stays the same at 2400 rpms, you are getting 182 hp. So you will be able to hold speed or accelerate MUCH better at 2400 rpms.

    I've heard the 'if you talk to truckers' a hundred times. Truckers have 800 ft lbs of torque, which gives them enormous horsepowers at low rpms.

    Horsepower gets you up the hill. the lower gear, operates at a higher RPM, which is more HP.

    Horsepower is a product of Torque and RPM. To get HP, you either need a lot of torque, or a lot of RPM, or a little of both.
  • cromcrom Posts: 7
    It looks like I was posting in the wrong area. Who can tell me the biggest tires to get on a 2001 Ram 2500 4x4 SWB quad cab. Original wheels and no lift kit. I was told all the Ram wheels were 8 inchers. I know BFGoodrich makes a 315/75R16 that fits on 8-10" wheels but I want as many options as possible. I know the 315s are a tight fit but I had a dealer show me a pair about a year ago that his mechanic had on his 2500 ram. The mechanic says there was a little rubbing with the steering turned all the way one way or the other but that it didn't give him any problems. I don't remember if they were the same tires I'm looking at now or not, but I think they are. who can give some expert advice?
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