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2001 Dodge Ram

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Comments

  • Ah yes, the old 3.54/4.10 debate with the Cummins! Check out the topics on this very issue elsewhere on this site (as well as earlier on this thread) and on the TDR site (see response #493 for the link). I opted for the 3.54 with my '01 2500 Cummins for the RPM reason you mentioned, and I'm glad I did. However, if you are going to go with 35" tires, the 4.10 may be a good idea. I have the stock 265 tires. I debated back and forth, so I know it can be a mind-bender. Good luck!
  • cdeancdean Posts: 1,110
    definitely check out what your 'effective' rear ratio would be with the bigger tires--you will probably find the 4.10 to be bad with stock tires, but perfect with oversized tires.
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    In my experience the 3.54 gears are not good with the cummins even with the 265 tires. I'm changing to 245s so I can tow my fifth wheel, which I just had weighed to satisfy my own curiosity, and it weighs 8400 lbs loaded to go. If you want the big tires I'd say you should go with the 4.10.
    I know lots of you guys like your trucks tall, but I'm having mine lowered, I prefer the look.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    Warfish, as you know I have the opposite problem you have. 4.10 rear with factory LT265's and the V10. Mine had problems staying in OD which had me running about 2900 rpm in 3rd at 65mph. Dealer seemed to have fixed problem but am anxiously awaiting a chance to pull my fifth wheel again to see if it stays in OD. Most every weekend I have been making a 800+ mile solo trip. Last weekend on my way home across Missouri on US50 I had the truck down shift to 3rd twice on two successive hills. After that it did not down shift on even steeper hills. Makes me wonder if its down shifting while solo it will be even worse while towing. Granted, US50 from Jefferson City to KC is pretty hilly and I would expect to tow in 3rd on that route, I was surprised it would downshift solo. Interestingly the v10 lost about 2 mph on both those hills. So it appeared tobe a power problem and the transmission should have downshifted. But on subsequent hills the engine did not loose speed and no down shift. I have been that route about the last three weekends and it didn't downshift previously. Maybe I'm reading more into this than exist. .... I am considering larger tires if I have a continuing problem while towing and Dodge does nothing. (kind of a backup plan). But LT 285 75R16's will only decrease my rpm at 65 in third by less than 100 rpm. I'm not sure that's enough change to be worthwhile. Similar I'm not sure your going to LT225's will give much relief. There was a site on the net I used sometime back that you could put in your old tire size and new and it would tell your old/new rpm. I cann't find it now. ... I don't think I can go any larger than LT285 75R16 without a lift kit which I want to avoid. Also larger tires cancel out part of their benifit of effective higher rearend by weighing more which has a negitive impact on mpg. ... Rich
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    Changing tire sizes will effect the speedometer accuracy, which doesn't bother me, but the computer maybe effected as to when it shifts. Can the dealer reprogram? Will they? how much?
  • angryangry Posts: 1
    I am having problems with my Dodge Cummins 2500. It keeps pulling to the right. I have had it into the dealership MANY times and still no solution. Has anyone else had front end trouble?? Suggestions??
  • I'm having steering problems with my '01 2500 Cummins 4X4. It wanders badly and won't come back to center on it's own on the highway. The dealer is discussing options with Dodge on what to do. The caster was adjusted, and that helped - but only for awhile. A new steering box may be the solution. If you're refering to brake pull, I don't have any problem with that. Mine doesn't pull at all, it's just a handful to drive on the highway. Check out TDR for more help.
  • mictromictro Posts: 29
    Let me apologize for not having all of the details, but I'll tell you what I know.

    My cousin owns a 1998 2500 Cummins 4x4. He recently took it in for some brake work thinking it was causing the truck to pull. His truck was in the shop for a week and Dodge replaced/rebuilt his entire front end because it had been assembled incorrectly at the factory. This was all warranty work.

    I would have your dealer check out the assembly of the front end.

    -MICTRO
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    I understand Dodge changed the front end of the 2000 4x4's. But still people are having problems. Mine pulled to the right. The dealer did not have the equipment to fix it as they thought it needed the axle bent 1/4 degree. So they paid for me to take it to a body shop. Enven made the apointment for me. The shop determined the front end on one side was installed too far back by some degrees and moved the whole assembly forward. Now it basically tracks strait. Some times slightly pulls to right and sometimes to the left depending on the crown in the road. It seems more sensitive to the road crown than my previous truck but acceptable. ... Rich
  • RichinKsRichinKs Posts: 416
    forget to mention mine is a 2001 4x4 with towing and camper options 2500.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Rich

    Yes, the dealer can and will reflash your computer with the necessary speedometer correction for oversize tires. They are all supposed to have a manual with various tire sizes and the appropriate coding. You will be charged the regular hourly labor rate.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • shan05shan05 Posts: 1
    I am interested in purchasing a Dodge Ram Quad cab, 1500 series, 4x4. I am getting told by two dealers that with the light weight plow package and tow package I will be able to put a plow on the truck. However one dealer is saying that it can't be done and to beware of the dealers who say they can do it and will warranty any problems. I have called two different numbers at Chrysler both of which tell me I can get a plow for 1500 Quad cab. The dealer told me that they didn't know what they were talking about.

    I know that there would be no problem putting the plow on the 2500 or 3500 series but I don't need that big of a truck, nor do I like the ride. That plowing that I do is only three driveways, not commercial.

    Any help that anyone can give me will be greatly appreciated!!!!!

    Thanks!!
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    My '01 2500 is a 4x2 and I can't say I'm having the steering problems some people are reporting with 4x4s. My last truck was a '98 1500 and it drove like a dream compared to my 2500 though. I can't say I'm all over the road but it keeps me on my toes almost as much as driving a twin I beam Ford.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Hi shan

    The dealer who told you know is correct. The reason is, the Quad Cab loads the front axle much more than the regular cab, and a plow assembly will exceed the front GAWR.

    A 2500 would be a much better choice for a plow vehicle.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    I'm starting to think my dealer (a five star), doean't know shinola about Dodge trucks. I just called to see what was involved to re calibrate my speedo when I change to smaller tires, which will be the tires that come standard without the SLT package. The guy who is supposed to know said it can't be done, the computers now come sealed and can't be reflashed. I asked what happens when the computer has a problem and has to be recoded and he said that doesn't happen. I think I'd better find another dealer to do my service work!!!
  • lurp316lurp316 Posts: 7
    This is my frist new truck.It will be a 2wd with the 5.2 or the 5.9,and the slt g package. What are the pro's and con's. thanks
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    If you don't ever plan to tow anything over 3k, I'd go with the 5.2. It's a very good engine and has plenty of power for everyday driving and will give you better gas mileage. If you are going to do a little heavier towing, go for the 5.9. I just traded in a '98 5.9 quad this spring and if I hadn't needed a 2500 for heavier towing I'd have kept it for a long time. I liked it a lot better than my new truck but the mileage was not great. Ken
  • lurp316lurp316 Posts: 7
    I think I will get the 5.9. John
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    Cummins, auto and 3.54. Not the best combo for towing an 8500 lb fifth wheel I'm afraid. If I had it to do over I'd go for the 5 speed stick with the same engine and rear, and specify smaller tires.
  • wmillswmills Posts: 2
    In mid March I ordered a 2500 QC SLT+, ETH, ETC, sport, and all the other goodies. In mid June the truck finnaly arrived minus LS differential, wrong mirrors, and interior color. The dealer screwed up, but won't admit it.The truck is re ordered,but, as of yet I have no VIN.
    I called another dealer yesterday, and was told all 2001's are closed out. All new orders will be for the 2002 model year.No body or mechanical changes, but a 2% price increase. He won't have the exact pricing till August sometime.
    Any comments or information on this?
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    If you signed the order you have a contract for a truck to be delivered to you at the agreed price. If the dealer has to deliver a 2002 truck to you and eat the 2% increase he will still make a handsome profit. Don't let them bully you into paying more than you agreed to.
  • I thought the 2002 was going to have some substantial body changes. I agree with warfish - stick to your guns. The dealer screwed up, he has to make it right. If he won't, you should walk. There's plenty of dealers who want your business. If this guy is acting like this now, it's probably just the beginning of more hassles with him. If you have a signed deal, it should be voided by his failure to deliver on his end. Call DC to complain if you need to.

    When I ordered my 2001, I shopped at 3 dealers. I went in, told them what I wanted to order and asked for a price, period. No haggle, no counter offers. I kept going to dealers until I got my price. When they know you are going to buy a truck, and it's just a matter of where, they get serious about giving a good price. I used strategies I read about on this site and it worked to the letter. I refused to work with a salesperson. I went right to the head guy at each dealer to cut out the commission charges and the "I have to check with my boss" game. Good luck.
  • wmillswmills Posts: 2
    Thanks guys, I have a good deal $300 over invoice.
    I also did a lot of shopping around, I'm in the Denver area. However , that $300 over may float.
    My main concern now is getting the truck and what's up with the year change? Dodge went to 2001
    because the PT Cruiser allowed them to build more fuel thirsty animals. Same trip with the 2002 deal. It's got to catch up with them soon or thewill be pushing Enterprise class vehicals with
    a Cummins instead of Warp Drive.
  • eric16eric16 Posts: 38
    When I ordered my truck, it was to be a 2000. The factory closed down for the holidays and when they reopened I got a 2001. I got it for the 2000 price at 500.00 below invoice.

    Eric16
  • lurp316lurp316 Posts: 7
    When did the 2001's come out? And is there any way to tell how long the truck has been on the lot.
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    The 2001s came out on 0/01/00.
    To tell how long the truck has been on the lot, look at the sticker on the right frame inside the drivers door. That will give you date of manufacture, mine says 04/00 and I know it was built on 4/12/00. Add a few weeks for transit and that will give you a good idea how long the dealer has had the truck.
    If the 2002 models are being built now, I wonder how long it will be before you can buy a truck 3 or 4 years before it's time. This madness has to end.
  • mrlevelmrlevel Posts: 7
    my coments on the towing. I owned a 94 F-250 xlt and the manual said do not tow or plow in overdrive. I went by that rule and never had a
    problem also i would not use it going up steep hills. If you look at the manual for the new Dodge Ram 2500 and read between the lines it says don't use it for towing and plowing.
  • I ordered my truck on 2-17-00. At that point it was not possible to order a 2000 anymore, it had to be a 2001. I remember reading somewhere that they can't legally sell a model year more than 1 year in advance. In other words, a 2002 couldn't be built/sold until 1-1-01. Anyone else know about that?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    By Federal law, a manufacturer cannot build a vehicle more than one numeric year and advance, nor can they build it for more than 729 days (1 day short of 2 years). Thus the longest possible production run for a "2002" vehicle is 01/02/2001 (year minus 1) to 12/31/2002 (year), since no one works on New Year's Day anyway.

    The 1% you missed is sales - you can continue to sell that 2002 as long as it sits on the lot, obviously - the date restrictions are production and initial sale dates.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    that should be "in advance", not "and advance"

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
This discussion has been closed.